MWareman

I see what you did there. Sorry, but I'm going to 'borrow' this one!

Missed that - sorry! Agree with others at this point. It looks like one switch does not receive the scene command from the other, but they both receive scene commands from the PLM. Points to comm - since all the link records appear to have been confirmed.

Are both switches 'controllers' of the scene? If sounds like they may only be 'Responders'.

On devices with different IP addresses, this is perfectly fine. If you need to NAT access from the Internet then you can configure your NAT to use different external ports to map to whatever IP/port combos are necessary for your devices.

Electrically, I know exactly how motion sensors work - but the Insteon ones are definitely sensitive to rapidly changing light (like sun coming out from behind a cloud) and more recently our Halloween decorations fluttering keeps triggering my sensor as well. It's very annoying. Neither of these should trigger a purely heat sensitive motion sensor.... I'm looking for a better solution...

You cannot run Java on IOS, Android or Windows RT - so using the admin console is currently not possible on these platforms. As mentioned, remote desktop of some sort is the way to go (RDP, VNC, TeamViewer etc...). There is a development recently that has caused UDI to state that new features would not be added to the admin console and coded into the web interface instead (namely, websockets working in a HTML5 browser natively). Over time, more and more will be available to any browser (including on those operating systems above). This will take time though - a lot of it! It is also said there are other more important priorities driving development. Michael.

I got a MyQ push-button remote and opened it up. I soldered wires to the push-button contacts and then attached those wires (in my case) to my Elk system output. You could also attach to an iolinc. Others have attached wires to the push-button on the wall module. Same principal. What you cannot do is attach it directly to the GDO or the wires between the GDO and the wall button.

You are missing at two lines in your 'Then', assuming that both 'Livingroom Light 2' and 'Livingroom Light 3' are scene controllers for your 'Main Floor / Livingroom / Livingroom Day' scene. You need to set the local 'On' levels of all scene controller devices as well to 90%. The local 'On' level will override the scene 'On' level when you control it directly. I'm mobile right now, I'll try and get you an example later.

The old SmartLinc did this - exposed the serial interface on a TCP socket. It's interesting to see that the Hub apparently keeps this tradition. I may just pick one up and see myself. I used to be able to run a serial/TCP service on my Ubuntu host and the Smartlinc would work with Houselinc as if it was directly connected. If it still works the same, I wonder what the result would be.... ISY programs and all the additional benefits of the Hub (Siri for those that have iDevices)...

Responder... The scene should have no controller and only the KPL button as a responder.

That's a shame....

I don't know. It seems to update too quickly to be polling. Maybe it's using Android device messaging though...

Probably not very easily... The api is served over SSL. I'm going to try using an intercepting SSL forward proxy to see if I can see what's going on, but if the app uses certificate pinning this will fail.

The app (on a phone) updates very quickly when the garage opens or closes. I wonder if they use a websocket for this, and if it can be tapped into. The api does not appear to give details though.

We're the DNS IP addresses the same as assigned by your DHCP server and manually typed when statically setting the IP?

It uses Java - just like when you are local. It's the full admin app, so yes - you can make any change that you can make locally. I believe you lookup the URL to use within the Mobilinc app itself if you are using the Mobilinc Connect profile. It incorporates the ISY uuid, and you authenticate with your Mobilinc Connect credential instead of your ISY credential.

I'll add #4: If you subscribe to Mobilinc Connect you can use that service as well to run the admin console. Michael.

I use the Dashbox to log and graph the GEM data (over its serial connection) - and the Dashbox can update state variables on ISY with the current power values (ove its Ethernet connection). No ZigBee involved at all. It's not quite the native solution that io_guy will be able to do, but it does allow me to act on power states - and gives all the other Dashbox benefits.

Awesome! I assume this will require the UDI portal - or is it entirely onsite (Echo => ISY) communication?

You should probably post this in the Mobilinc forum... I don't know if Wes monitors other forums.

I assume you are using this link (Windows - if Mac let me know and I'll send the other one for Macs....) http://isy.universal-devices.com/994i/4.3.18/dashboard.jnlp

I don't know if the default certificate is the same across multiple ISYs - but I wouldn't make the assumption that they are unique and I'd create a new unique certificate myself.

Direct strike protection really takes lightning rods, copper ribbons on the outside of your house and multiple ground bond points dedicated to the task all isolated from your electrical ground which needs to float on a single ground bonded point. The lightning grounds need to be some distance from the property and aggressively bonded together. It can be done - but it doesn't look pretty! You still need surge protection on the electrical system as well - multiple tiers. Also, good luck trying you use a cell phone within the Faraday cage you now live in! (tongue in cheek here...)

Windows Mobile 10 is like Windows RT. Built to run on ARM CPUs and, as such, Java won't work. So no, you cannot run the admin console on these. However, you could likely RDP to a full desktop.

A buddy of mine (who I work with) professionally used to do lightning protection for broadcast towers (among other radio work). It takes substantial effort to do grounding properly to protect a direct lightning strike, without causing yourself significant issues if you have a nearby strike. The main issue is cross-bonding multiple ground points and the requirement that you actually have multiple ground points (to more effectively dissipate a direct strike). It must be done well because a nearby strike can cause 1000's of volts potential in the soil over a fairly short distance. That will cause current flow in your ground bonding possibly into the thousands of amps (depending on their relative location to the location of the nearby strike) - and it has to be able to tolerate it because - if it fails that potential difference will flow back thru the weakest link - your appliances on weaker (by comparison) protection. It's an inexact science - but there is a science to it. For most homeowners though - there is no easy way to fully protect against a direct strike. Me - I have a whole house surge wired to my panel - and a 10 guage earth bonded to my main ground rod. I also have many plug in surge protectors. I also have a module surge protector on my CAT6 cables (as they come back from different locations around the house) as well as my coax cables (like the cat6 - returning from all over the house). This is also bonded directly to the main electrical ground rod. We've experienced several nearby strikes now - and not one device lost. I consider that a success. In my old house I had a whole house protector - but the ground was not as good. Mostly, we were OK - but we did have two nearby events that caused significant damage. One placed a surge onto my cat6 - and took out my switch, several computers and my TV tuners. The other my air conditioner compressor. I vowed that I would do all that was reasonable to minimize the risk of that happening again. To the OP. Definitely get a whole house protector installed directly into you main panel (and secondary ones on secondary panels). However - also invest in a stout ground from these to the main electrical ground and ensure that the ground is sufficient. Don't rely on house wiring for the ground!