djones1415

Anyone have advice on what they use as a loud siren. I don't have an alarm system, but I'd like to trigger a few Insteon-controlled sirens around the house. My first thought was to find a simple loud horn that plugs in to a outlet linc. That's been hard - it seems most alarm horns are low power...which I guess means going the whole I/O linc route? Any advice on best approach? Thanks

Highlight the KPL in the scene. (Point to and highlight the red line that lists the KPL in the scene.) Then adjust the lamp module's on level and/or ramp speed by using the sliders. (It can be different from what the scene itself shows - so you have probably set the lamp's on level when the scene name was highlighted. You have to highlight the KPL controller IN the scene, then set the lamp's on level.) By the way, the KPL button that can only be set to on/100% is the button light itself. That's why it's either on or off. Nothing to do with the lamp or how that KPL button controls the lamp.

And yet again, thanks Lee.

I have a program that sets the On Levels for switches twice a day - lower at night. Every switch (or button) I want to adjust has a line in the program as follows: for a load carrying switch: In Scene 'Loads/Switch1' Set 'Loads/Switch1' 75% (On Level) or for a switch that doesn't carry the load: In Scene 'LEDs/KPL2(Switch1)' Set 'Loads/Switch1' 75% (On Level) Everything is fine - except the dropdown list is missing two load switches that are in my system. When trying to add another line to the program, "Adjust Scene"..."In Scene"...dropdown --- the switches aren't anywhere on that list. Any ideas on why - and what to do about it? Is there a way to make the ISY refresh this dropdown list. Both missing switches are clearly listed in the ISY summary. Both are in the same folder (\Loads) that have all of the other switches in the dropdown. Scratching head. Tks

Thanks, guys.

Is there a command (or program) that can learn what the "Current State" is of a device? (The "current state" that is listed on the ISY summary page in the admin console, e.g. 22%, 30%, On, Off) I would like to be able for a program to query a device, store it's current state in a variable, so a program can later come back and restore that state to the device. For example, turn off all lights in all rooms around a viewing room when the movie starts, then when finished restore those lights to what they were originally - 22% or On or Off, etc.

Thanks, Michel. That did it. Two questions: 1)Mozilla tells me that "this plugin has security vulnerabilities." Should I just ignore this and use anyway? Internet Explorer doesn't warn me. Both load the admin console. Does it matter which browser I use to access the ISY? 2) The ISY tells me using the default certificate is a security risk. I clicked to request one, but after reading the pdf pretty quickly realized I was way out of my depth on understanding what I was doing from a network perspective. If it really matters, I'll wade through the instructions, but if it doesn't, I'll just ignore. What do you think?

Lots of switches, lights - floods, fluorescents, incandescents - an oil burner. Everything works fine except this one switch. Also, btw, it isn't the wattage. This one switch is controlling three fixtures each of which has two 60 watt bulbs. I think the hot and/or neutral are going through a fixture/junction box/something and either losing voltage or bleeding voltage and somehow the switch sees, at some single point, a voltage coming in that's too low (or perhaps a neutral with too much) and shuts down - although it's interesting that the switch LED stays on.

Thanks for the ideas. I'll check the wattage. Hadn't thought of that. All incandescent. I wasn't clear. It's just this one switch that I'm having trouble with. The other two are working fine. I just mentioned them because they were part of the original wiring. All three are coming off of the same hot (using travelers to the other two boxes), and same neutral (ditto). I'm wondering if there may be some sort of voltage seepage (in or out of the switch) that takes some time before the circuits in the ToggleLinc sense a problem and shut down. The timing is just so consistent - three days to failure. Doesn't seem to cause permanent problem for the switch. It just stops working - indicator light stays on, but no response until power (breaker) is turned off and back on. The Log file shows Error in the Control column and the number 1 in the Value column in response to an ISY query (after the switch had stopped working) with the next Log line showing blank in the Control column and Value column and a -2 in the Log Type column.

no

I have a ToggleLinc Dimmer that is controlling a load that works fine for three days. Then it stops. Won't turn on the four hall overhead light fixtures that it controls; other switches can't communicate with it; the ISY can't communicate with it. I flip the breaker off and back on, and it will work fine for another three days. The switch is ok (this is the second one I've used and it's doing the same thing the first one did.) This was originally part of a 3-way switch which I rewired. Actually there were three 3-way switches in three 2-gang switch boxes. After rewiring to get hot and neutral to each of the three boxes, I had two loads, but couldn't find the third load wire (this switch). Stumped, I had an electrician come in. I'm glad to say it wasn't just me. The switch was strangely wired, and we chased it around for a couple hours...finally opened up the fixture, and he thought he had it figured out. We found a junction box that wires were going through...but like I said, he thought we had it a good hot, neutral, ground, and found the load wire. But three days later...off it goes. Flip the breaker, good for another three days, then down again. Changed switches...three days good, then stops responding. Any of you electrician gurus have any ideas?

I notice that program examples provided by UD in the Wiki include a WAIT for 2 seconds before doing certain things (or after?). For example, If Program 'Any "Family Evening Scene" Devices On' is True Then Wait 2 seconds Set Scene 'KeypadLinc LEDs / Family Evening Scene LED' On Else Wait 2 seconds Set Scene 'KeypadLinc LEDs / Family Evening Scene LED' Off I have about 50 similar programs without the WAIT, and before I go through and add the WAIT, I'm curious as to its purpose / need. Is there something magic about the 2 seconds? 1? 3? Giving time for traffic to clear? I guess I'll go through and add all of the lines, but just curious... Thanks

Thanks again, Lee.

1) https://www.dropbox.com/s/h3c0xsak2chihco/ISY.GIF 2) v.3.3.8 Also, I didn't mention before, the lights come on dimmed if I turn the scene on from the ISY. Only when I press the KPL key do they come on full - and as I said before, it's only the load that is controlled by the KPL's first button that comes on full. Thanks

I have a KPL key (6) that is a controller for a scene that includes turning on the load controlled by the same KPL's key (1). Unfortunately, the load lights come on full instead of at the 30% dimmed rate that is specified in the scene. All of the other lights in the scene come on as expected. Any ideas on what I may not be doing? There is a program that I don't think is involved in the problem...but I'll include it in case it is and I don't understand why... (The program just checks all of the loads in the scene and, if they are all on at any level, shows so by lighting up the KPL key - or turning it off whenever any one of the lights in the scene is turned off). If Status 'Loads / 1FL S6-1FL Hall Overheads' is not Off And Status 'Loads / 2FL O1-Lamp' is not Off And Status 'Loads / 2Fl S2-2FL Hall Overheads' is not Off And Status 'Loads / BFJ-O1 Couch Lamp' is not Off And Status 'Loads / Din O1-Curio' is not Off And Status 'Loads / Din S1 Chandelier' is not Off And Status 'Loads / Entry O1 Lamp' is not Off And Status 'Loads / Fam O1 LLamp' is not Off And Status 'Loads / Fam O3 RLamp' is not Off And Status 'Loads / Fam S2 Overhead Center' is not Off And Status 'Loads / Fam S3 Overhead Left' is not Off And Status 'Loads / Fam S6KPL-1 Fam Overhead Righ' is not Off And Status 'Loads / Fr Door KPL-1 Foyer Overheads' is not Off And Status 'Loads / Fr Door S2 Front Porch' is not Off And Status 'Loads / Kitchen-S1 Counter Lights' is not Off And Status 'Loads / Liv-O1 Piano Halogen' is not Off And Status 'Loads / Liv-O2 Fireplace Lamp' is not Off And Status 'Loads / Liv-O6 Desk Lamp' is not Off And Status 'Loads / Office S1 Halogen' is not Off And Status 'Loads / 0FL S2N-0FL Hall Overheads' is not Off And Status 'Loads / 0FL S4-Basement Skonces' is not Off Then Set Scene 'KPL Indicator Lights / Fr Door KPL-6' On Else Set Scene 'KPL Indicator Lights / Fr Door KPL-6' Off

I am getting an error message when trying to connect to the admin console over the internet. "Socket Open Failed javax.net.ssi.SSLHandleShakeException: Remote host closed connection during handshake" I am able to log in to the ISY - enter name, password, handle devices, scenes, etc. And I am able to get to the admin console just fine using same browser (IE) when I come in from my local network (port forwarding all set properly). But can't get to the admin console when coming in from the outside. Any ideas? Thanks

Thanks. That did it.

FIrmware Insteon_UD994 v.3.2.6 (2012-05-04-00:21:21) UI Insteon_UD994 v.3.2.6 (2012-05-04-00:21:21)

I just linked a new KeyPadLinc 6 button and the ISY adds it, switch works on the load, but the ISY shows it as an "Unsupported Device 2.44" and the ISY didn't add devices for the other 4 buttons. It's my first 6 - is there something unique to linking a 6? Tks

Then it beats me. (Previous post I said they were "two way" switches...they were three way, not two way.) Anyway, the pigtails seem to have fixed the problem...at least these three ways have now worked for several hours now, first time since I put them in. These were the first switches where I had hots from more than one switch wired together. All other switches I've installed - both two way and three way - have had a separate hot for each switch. I'll try and give Smarthome a call this morning and see what they say. If they have any explanation, I'll post it here.

Yes...all the stuff on the same circuit are "the same hot and same neutral" whether they're in the same box or not. It's just one continuous flow out from the breaker (along the "hot" wires) and then back to the breaker (along the neutrals). That's what I thought too. But practical experience is telling me something else when it comes to Insteon switches. Here's what I have found - and how I (think I) fixed it. I had three 2-gang junction boxes handling three two-way switches. Hot came in to box 1 only. Fixture feeds (loads) were in box 2 (1 load) and box 3 (2 loads). So I ran the hot from box 1 to box 2 (via traveler) and to box 3 (from box 2 via another traveler). At box 3 I attached the blacks of two ToggleLinc Relays to the single hot. Both switches worked fine for a time - both at the switch and via the ISY. But in a short period of time (it seems after a few ISY commands - but it could have been after one ISY command) one of the switches would stop working (no indicator light on the switch, wouldn't control the load, and couldn't communicate with the ISY). If I unhooked it and wired it up again, it would work fine again - for a time. Then it would stop. What I've done, and so far so good, is to pigtail out of the single hot with two wires and hooked each of those wires to one of the ToggleLinc Relays. I'm thinking that by connecting the hots of both switches directly wired together somehow got ISY commands for one switch incorrectly routed to the other, and the other somehow figured out that it wasn't meant for it and just shut down. By the way, I've put neutrals for both switches together with the box's neutral, figuring that any command coming out won't be at danger of being directed to the wrong box. Has anyone else had switches that had their hots connected directly to each other work over time? I'd be interested if so - because I can't think of any other reason mine failed after time.

arw01: I believe you need a program to keep all your soft switch lights in sync with the load you want them to indicate. After struggling through this and figuring out what worked - and knowing that I wouldn't remember the details later, I made some notes for myself. Maybe they will help. And, LeeG, if you think this any of this is unnecessary, please let us know. This seems a little tedious to me, but I haven't found another way to be sure all switch indicator lights properly show the status of the device whether the device is turned on or off by the load switch, by another controller switch, by a program command, as part of a scene, or remotely through a Mobilinc command (again whether device, scene, or other). Sorry that the tabs (and beginning spaces) are removed...hope you can figure out the intended indention from the Word-provided outline numbering... 4) How to keep the indicator lights in sync throughout the house a. Definition: Soft Switch – a switch that does not control a physical load at the switch i. A SwitchLinc, ToggleLinc, SwitchLinc Dimmer, etc. that has its red load wire capped off and unattached ii. A KeyPadLinc’s first button if the red load wire is capped off and unattached iii. A KeyPadLinc button other than the first button b. Definition: Load Switch – a switch that controls a load (i.e. has its red wire attached) i. Keep these switches in a “Loads†folder – this makes it easy for you to find the switches that actually control fixtures/devices ii. Also in that “Loads†folder are OutletLinc Relays and OutletLinc Dimmers, not technically switches but they act as loads controlling fixtures c. You will need i. A program for every soft switch that monitors the load(s) used by that switch (“Indicator Programâ€) 1. I keep all of these programs a Soft Switch - Indicator Lights folder ii. A Scene for every KPL button other than the first 1. I put all of these Scenes in a Folder: Soft Switch Indicator Lights 2. The Scene will consist of a single responder – the button a. For example, Scene Fam S1KPL2 is for the FAMily room Switch 1 KPL Button 2 and has a single responder FAM S1KPL-2 (Family Overheads) d. When you first link a new regular soft switch (4(a)(i)), you don’t need to do anything special e. When you first link a new KPL: i. Go ahead and add a scene for each KPL button 2-8 ii. Don’t add the responder to each of those scenes yet; by not adding the responder, there will be no plus sign next to the scene entry in the folder; that will indicate to you (and make it easy for you to see) that you haven’t created a corresponding Indicator Program that needs that scene yet f. When you assign a use to a regular soft switch (4(a)(i) or 4(a)(ii)) i. Create an Indicator Program for the switch If Status ‘Loads / 1FL S6-Hallway Overheads’ is not Off Then Set ‘1FL S2-(Hallway Overheads)’ On Else Set ‘1FL S2-(Hallway Overheads)’ Off ii. Note you test the Status of the actual load switch/outlet… iii. …and you set the switch light using the switch itself iv. Note you can address the switch directly (Set, not Set Scene) g. When you assign a use to a KPL button (4(a)(iii)) i. Add the responder to the scene in the Soft Switch Indicator Lights folder ii. Create the Indicator Program for the button If Status ‘Loads / FamO1-LLamp’ is not Off And Status ‘Loads / FamO3-RLamp’ is not Off Then Set Scene ‘Soft Switch Indicator Lights / Fam S1KPL-2’ On Else Set Scene ‘Soft Switch Indicator Lights / Fam S1KPL-2’ Off iii. Note you need to address the scene (Set Scene, not Set) since you cannot turn a KPL button on or off directly (you can for KPL button one only because the ISY knows it has a load attached, even though it is capped)

apostolakisl: great post. I've read what I could, but three ways stumped me. Tried one, and when I saw two whites in one box and both looked hot, I knew I was over my head. Had an electrician come in. Four three-way switches later, I saw what he was doing, and have now done five on my own. What I have learned is to forget about the colors on the wires. In my house, at least, the color means nothing. I have seen hot whites. And I seen have black and red travelers showing up as two blacks at the other box (having gone through a junction box I didn't even know was there). So---forget colors. Read apostolakisl's post until it makes sense. Get a voltmeter. Spend 30 minutes or more looking at the two boxes and figure out how it's wired before making any changes. It will come to you. apostolakisl's post would have saved me a lot of time Basically there is a hot at one box and a load at the other. Find the hot. Send it to the Load Box on one of the travelers. Find that hot on the Load Box and you can easily find the load wire at the Load Box (apostolakisl has you do this by the process of eliminating the two travelers and deducing the other one is the load. You'll also find that touching the hot at the Load Box to the load wire will light the fixture.) Once you have the hot at the Hot Box you can hook up the Insteon switch at the Hot Box (no load there, hence the capped red wire from the Insteon switch). At the Load Box you'll hook up the Insteon switch with hot (black), load (red), and white neutral. Question for apostolakisl: Am I right that it is ok to hook up two Insteon switches to the same hot in a box, and to the same neutral in a box? I have a couple of Insteon switches in one box, and I have them both fed by the same hot and same neutral.

Thanks to both of you for helping people get started on here. And, LeeG - Thank you for getting me to the solution. Your comment led the way... Here are the programs that do the trick: If Status OutletLincDimmer #1 is not OFF AND Status OutletLincDimmer #2 is not OFF Then Run Program KPL1 (Then Path) 'turns on the KPL1 button Else Run Program KPL1 (Else Path) 'turns off the KPL1 button (It was adding the line that had the program turn the KPL1 button on that fixed things. KPL1 actually blinks once, as you would no doubt predict when you think about it. The program turns off KPL1 when the first OutletLincDimmer is turned on (but the other remaining off, as you pointed out) and then turns it back on when the second goes on.) Perfect. KPL1 is on when both lamps are on, and it's off when either or both are off. And this will be true in the future if some other scene or controller turns both lamps on or either/both off --- without having to change the program code. I can use this throughout to keep the indicator lights in sync with the devices, just like hard linking in the switches does. Thanks again.

Thanks to both of you for helping. LeeG: I'd like to use the Status instead of Control if possible. My thinking (please check it - I'm new to this) is that using Status will make future changes easier. For example, if any controller (maybe added in the future) turns off one of the lamps in this scene, Status will catch that and the KPL1 button will go off as it should - with no program change. Using Control would mean I'd have to go in and change the programming for every switch I add in the future to catch each specific switch that turned off the lamp and have the program handle that KPL1 button. Also, it doesn't appear to me that turning off the KPL1 button does in fact change the status of either lamp. With the following program I can turn the KPL1 button on (THEN) and off (ELSE), and doing either doesn't affect the lamps. (The KPL1 button does not control the load to anything.) oberkc (or LeeG): any idea why putting the logic to turn off the KPL1 into a separate program didn't work? I'd think this is a pretty standard goal that everyone would have - i.e. having a KPL button that turns on multiple lights be lit only if all of those lights are in fact on...and to to off any time any single one of those lights goes off. On if ALL are on; Off is ANY is off. Thanks... Still Stumped