lilyoyo1

Since you're having the same exact issue with 2 different devices I would start by disabling all programs to see if reboots still happen. If it stops, re-enable to simple programs first (basic on offs) first and see what happens. If that works then start enabling programs until the isy reboots.

People have been saying insteon will go out of business for the last 10 years. While anything is possible I don't see it happening soon. Even if it does, your devices would still work

Thanks for that. I just wanted to be certain. There are times when people have something different than what they realize. What's your firmware and UI

I have the 4 button. Even with the remote factory reset and showing exclamation marks in the system, I am able to use the replace function to swap to my test remote without issue. Do you have a photo of the front of the New remote as I believe it's actually a 4 button that you have instead of an 8. The reason I believe this is that the ISY is automatically seeing it as a 4 button and not 8 like it's supposed to

What firmware/UI are you using with the isy? The hub doesn't change anything within the fanlinc itself. When you configured your devices with the hub, the links were stored within the devices themselves which is why they can still talk

I'm talking about how it was originally sold. Those are technically different devices. The firmware just allows it to be used in different manners. Sort of like the kpls can be 6 or 8 button. I suspect that is why you're not seeing the icon. You technically have 2 different items.

I also see in the screen shot that its an 8 button remotelinc that you were using before. While they are interchangeable in regards to programmng, I wonder if that plays a part in why you dont have the option.

I have them and it does show up as being replaceable when I add my backup to the isy. The remote will need to be in linking mode once you hit replace

Do you have your remote Linc in a folder? It cannot be in a folder in order to replace

I was thinking more to lock the door with isy programs. This allows you to configure longer wait times prior to locking as well as not having it lock if the door was open (if a sensor was used).

Since you're using the isy with it, why not just let the isy handle auto locking via programs for you. By letting the isy do the heavy lifting, you have much more control and options.

The light control portion is triac based. The fan uses capacitors to step down the power sent to the fan

Its your home and fan. Theres plenty of information provided online and on these forums about the dangers of using a triad based dimmer with a motor so I won't go into the details of why not here. Due to the safety issues involved, I definitely wouldn't tell the op or anyone this is a good path to take.

The buttons on the New and old kpls are interchangeable

The light button will work locally as there's no safety issue if it is turned on. Just the fan buttons themselves won't work. How do you have the fanlinc and wall switch wired? The reason I'm asking is because of the reset. If the fanlinc is wired with constant power from the switch it shouldn't reset by the pull chain. Have you tried an older unit in those fans to see if behavior matches? What about the newer in existing locations that are working with older stuff?

Directly pushing the buttons (except for the light) on the fanlinc won't work for safety reasons. It must be linked to another device in order for it to work. Without details one can only speculate (which is a moot point since that's not what the posting is about) what may be going on. In regards to the fanlight, what kind of bulbs were you using? Did you try with incandescent? I keep a few incandescent bulbs just to verify operability as differences in leds can lead to different experiences.

How is it not compatible? I know you said 2 didn't work but that doesn't say anything. How was it installed and programmed? I would think if a dimmer works the fanlinc would be compatible as well which would mean something wrong with either how it was wired or programmed

Using a dimmer on a fan can damage both devices

Depending on setup, you can use a relay and dimmer switch to control your fan. If you have separate switches for the lights and fans (and dont change fan speeds) then simply using a relay will accomplish the task. In my next home, (except for guest rooms) this is how I plan to proceed. In the time ive had my fanlincs, they only go to the medium setting. No point in spending the time and money on something thats not used.

???

No projected date. To be honest there will always be beta firmware. A new device gets released UDI will push a beta out to support it. Personally you're better off upgrading now then later. The more they add and change the harder it may become too upgrade later. This is especially so as you add more devices and programs. It's easier to grow with the system than have a fully matured system and adapt.

It can be added as the older motion sensor you just won't be able to configure the settings

The need for them is debatable and is really dependant on the situation. As MustangChris04 stated, a while house install generally will not need the extenders. Even should I've be needed, a person is probably better off making use of a lamplibc or appliance module. Same benefit and the benefit of additional capabilities. I do keep a couple around for 1 off situations. Over the past 3 to 4 years, I think i've only used 1.

The lamplibc is rated for a minimum 5watts so that may play a part as well