Rob

Can anyone with i3 dimmer and keypad that both show correctly as dimmer, reflect current dim level, and reflect local control? Bonus points if i3 keypad can be configured for which key controls the load. I've been holding off buying any i3 stuff until those issues are sorted out.

any plan on offering the new i3 4 button keypad that just came out the other day?

Watched the first few minutes of the video and was most interested in the i3 4-button keypad as well as the return of custom button-etching via 3rd parties. Keypads coming in early July so I hope the button etching will be available by then as well.

Was the webinar today? What all was announced?

I dropped RR 3 years ago because I got no traction with the developer. Switched to Homeseer and later Home Assistant. Respectfully, you should decide which is more important to you, Roomie or ISY/EISY, and adapt accordingly. If RR hasn't fixed it by now, they aren't going to. The Home Assistant and Homeseer ISY authors frequent this board and are quite responsive. The RR developer favors Lutron RadioRA.

Well damn, I guess I'll continue to hold off then. thanks for checking!

Can anyone confirm the i3 paddle shows correct status after local control? I've been holding off getting some until that's fixed. Release notes only mention the dial.

Hi Michel, Can you please clarify for me? Does it sound like Ken is amiable to providing you required info for ISY to support the ex-Nokia dimmers and switches and you will consider doing so once PLMs are back in stock? Otherwise I'm not sure why Ken would ask you if they weren't going to provide some basic level of assistance? FWIW I would love to see such support.

There's also been some activity in adding Ra3 devices to pylutron-caseta for Home Assistant https://github.com/gurumitts/pylutron-caseta/pull/90

Thanks! I'm a former web designer so I started the interface basically from scratch. I will recommend reading up on CSS grid layout and use https://github.com/thomasloven/lovelace-layout-card. A CSS Grid Generator like https://grid.layoutit.com/ will help significantly when designing your own screens. Also recommend Custom Button Card https://github.com/custom-cards/button-card and Custom Card Mod https://github.com/thomasloven/lovelace-card-mod. Start simple, use the HA gui to create some cards and then view the code to see under the hood. Then get more ambitious and take it from there. Basically depends on your skill level and how much time you wish to spend on it. I'll be happy to answer questions if I'm able.

I've been running HA on an Intel nuc in conjunction with the ISY for the last year or so and it's by far the best combination I've used. I use ISY mostly for lighting and HA for everything else, including Alexa. I have a few Fire HD10 tablets mounted on walls and you can create some truly awesome gui's depending on your coding skills. The great thing about the ISY is it's seen me through Roomie, then HomeSeer, and now HomeAssistant with no disruption to my lighting thanks to Insteon scenes and ISY's rock-solid stability. I wouldn't dream of migrating my lighting away from ISY to anything else.

I'd gladly back a campaign for a UD-designed PLM knowing it would likely be the last one I ever had to purchase. And if they pursue the former Nokia switches and keypads I'd buy those as well.

I ditched RR well over a year ago due to the issue and after getting nowhere w/ the developer. Been on Home Assistant it's way more flexible and powerful than RR is/was.

The only difference between the serial and usb PLM is a daughterboard that has the rj45 or usb port respectively. Now if the serial port on your existing PLM is dead or dying this isn't going to work, but in many (most?) cases it's the capacitors on the mainboard that's bad. The PLM is held together by 4 screws. Open it up and you'll see a daughterboard attached via an 8 pin header (like the usb or serial header in your pc). It's attached by 2 screws. Carefully bend the 2 antenna aside, remove the screws, and gently lift up the daughterboard. Repeat the process on the usb PLM and re-assmble attaching the rj45 card to the new PLM, taking care to ensure the pins are aligned or you will have issues. EDIT: I did a 2413U > 2413S conversion. I don't know if the daugherboard swap will work on different revisions of the PLM.

I've been using ISY 994 and HA for about 6 months now and my experience has never been better. Everything responds instantly (<1sec). I use scenes for controlling multiple lights at once since controlling individual lights in quick succession without delays between commands has always been problematic. This isn't specific to HA or ISY but Insteon. And as io_guy said, incorrect status is often an indication of a failing PLM. You can either re-cap it or simply buy an in-stock USB PLM and swap the daughterboard. I did that a few days ago and after resetting a few devices my network was back at 100% reliability.