Rob

Can anyone with i3 dimmer and keypad that both show correctly as dimmer, reflect current dim level, and reflect local control? Bonus points if i3 keypad can be configured for which key controls the load. I've been holding off buying any i3 stuff until those issues are sorted out.

any plan on offering the new i3 4 button keypad that just came out the other day?

Watched the first few minutes of the video and was most interested in the i3 4-button keypad as well as the return of custom button-etching via 3rd parties. Keypads coming in early July so I hope the button etching will be available by then as well.

Was the webinar today? What all was announced?

I dropped RR 3 years ago because I got no traction with the developer. Switched to Homeseer and later Home Assistant. Respectfully, you should decide which is more important to you, Roomie or ISY/EISY, and adapt accordingly. If RR hasn't fixed it by now, they aren't going to. The Home Assistant and Homeseer ISY authors frequent this board and are quite responsive. The RR developer favors Lutron RadioRA.

Well damn, I guess I'll continue to hold off then. thanks for checking!

Can anyone confirm the i3 paddle shows correct status after local control? I've been holding off getting some until that's fixed. Release notes only mention the dial.

Hi Michel, Can you please clarify for me? Does it sound like Ken is amiable to providing you required info for ISY to support the ex-Nokia dimmers and switches and you will consider doing so once PLMs are back in stock? Otherwise I'm not sure why Ken would ask you if they weren't going to provide some basic level of assistance? FWIW I would love to see such support.

There's also been some activity in adding Ra3 devices to pylutron-caseta for Home Assistant https://github.com/gurumitts/pylutron-caseta/pull/90

Thanks! I'm a former web designer so I started the interface basically from scratch. I will recommend reading up on CSS grid layout and use https://github.com/thomasloven/lovelace-layout-card. A CSS Grid Generator like https://grid.layoutit.com/ will help significantly when designing your own screens. Also recommend Custom Button Card https://github.com/custom-cards/button-card and Custom Card Mod https://github.com/thomasloven/lovelace-card-mod. Start simple, use the HA gui to create some cards and then view the code to see under the hood. Then get more ambitious and take it from there. Basically depends on your skill level and how much time you wish to spend on it. I'll be happy to answer questions if I'm able.

I've been running HA on an Intel nuc in conjunction with the ISY for the last year or so and it's by far the best combination I've used. I use ISY mostly for lighting and HA for everything else, including Alexa. I have a few Fire HD10 tablets mounted on walls and you can create some truly awesome gui's depending on your coding skills. The great thing about the ISY is it's seen me through Roomie, then HomeSeer, and now HomeAssistant with no disruption to my lighting thanks to Insteon scenes and ISY's rock-solid stability. I wouldn't dream of migrating my lighting away from ISY to anything else.

I'd gladly back a campaign for a UD-designed PLM knowing it would likely be the last one I ever had to purchase. And if they pursue the former Nokia switches and keypads I'd buy those as well.

I ditched RR well over a year ago due to the issue and after getting nowhere w/ the developer. Been on Home Assistant it's way more flexible and powerful than RR is/was.

The only difference between the serial and usb PLM is a daughterboard that has the rj45 or usb port respectively. Now if the serial port on your existing PLM is dead or dying this isn't going to work, but in many (most?) cases it's the capacitors on the mainboard that's bad. The PLM is held together by 4 screws. Open it up and you'll see a daughterboard attached via an 8 pin header (like the usb or serial header in your pc). It's attached by 2 screws. Carefully bend the 2 antenna aside, remove the screws, and gently lift up the daughterboard. Repeat the process on the usb PLM and re-assmble attaching the rj45 card to the new PLM, taking care to ensure the pins are aligned or you will have issues. EDIT: I did a 2413U > 2413S conversion. I don't know if the daugherboard swap will work on different revisions of the PLM.

I've been using ISY 994 and HA for about 6 months now and my experience has never been better. Everything responds instantly (<1sec). I use scenes for controlling multiple lights at once since controlling individual lights in quick succession without delays between commands has always been problematic. This isn't specific to HA or ISY but Insteon. And as io_guy said, incorrect status is often an indication of a failing PLM. You can either re-cap it or simply buy an in-stock USB PLM and swap the daughterboard. I did that a few days ago and after resetting a few devices my network was back at 100% reliability.

I've done 4-5 so far and that seemed to do the trick. There's more to fix but I'm burnt out on insteon for the day. My setup originally dates from the early days of the original 99i. Every switch in the house (50+) have been replaced at least once to move from v1 to v2 and through several PLMs and a couple of 99x's. I guess links could have gotten corrupted over the years. Who knows. I do feel my time probably would have been better spent migrating to Polisy then rebuilding PLM's and re-adding them to a legacy controller.

Update: Resolved? - did a link compare, it showed some discrepancies. Did a restore of the device. No luck. - did a factory reset of the device and then did a restore. No luck. - removed device from ISY, factory reset device, re-added back to ISY. Success! Hope the same holds true for others I identify.

OK I'm stumped by this one. I thought my old PLM was slowly giving up the ghost as it wasn't reliably picking up local ON status from devices. Other than that everything was fine. Anyway, I purchased a new USB PLM, swapped the daughterboard, and restored the PLM successfully. No unusual issues. Anyway, I'm still having local status issues. So far I've identified several switches that fail to report a local ON while other devices in that scene do show correct status. It will always show correct status when turning it OFF locally. Querying it in the console updates the correct status as does turning on other lights in the scene. Scene tests all pass and I'm seeing 2-3 hops remaining on traffic. Here's the kicker. When turning it on I noticed in the admin console that it DOES show ON for a brief second before showing OFF again. I've turned off Home Assistant and disabled any programs that might be affecting it. I monitored the program status and there were no programs that ran during my tests. As you can below "Office Recessed" was turned on locally at 10:53:44 and immediately shows off the same second. Any ideas on how to proceed from here? Event log: 1st Floor / Office / Office Recessed Status 100% Mon 2021/12/06 10:53:44 AM System Log 1st Floor / Office / Office Lamp Status 100% Mon 2021/12/06 10:53:44 AM System Log 1st Floor / Kitchen / Kitchen Keypad Living Room / Kitchen Keypad Office Status On Mon 2021/12/06 10:53:44 AM System Log 1st Floor / Foyer / Keypad HomeAway / Foyer Keypad Office Status On Mon 2021/12/06 10:53:44 AM System Log 1st Floor / Office / Office Recessed Status Off Mon 2021/12/06 10:53:44 AM System Log L3 event log: Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:25 AM : [INST-SRX ] 02 50 43.1E.D2 00.00.01 CF 11 00 LTONRR (00) Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:25 AM : [Std-Group ] 43.1E.D2-->Group=1, Max Hops=3, Hops Left=3 Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:25 AM : [D2D EVENT ] Event [43 1E D2 1] [DON] [0] uom=0 prec=-1 Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:25 AM : [ 43 1E D2 1] DON 0 Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:25 AM : [D2D EVENT ] Event [43 1E D2 1] [ST] [255] uom=100 prec=0 Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:25 AM : [ 43 1E D2 1] ST 255 (uom=100 prec=0) Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:25 AM : [D2D-CMP 0065] STS [43 1E D2 1] ST Converted values Event=255 Condition=0 prec=0 Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:25 AM : [D2D-CMP 0065] STS [43 1E D2 1] ST op=6 Event(val=255 uom=100 prec=0) != Condition(val=0 uom=51 prec=0) --> true Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:25 AM : [D2D-CMP 0020] STS [43 1E D2 1] ST Converted values Event=255 Condition=0 prec=0 Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:25 AM : [D2D-CMP 0020] STS [43 1E D2 1] ST op=1 Event(val=255 uom=100 prec=0) is Condition(val=0 uom=51 prec=0) --> false Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:25 AM : [INST-SRX ] 02 50 43.1E.D2 00.01.01 CF 11 01 LTONRR (01) Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:25 AM : [Std-Group ] 43.1E.D2-->Group=1, Max Hops=3, Hops Left=3 Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:25 AM : [D2D EVENT ] Event [43 1E D2 1] [DON] [1] uom=0 prec=-1 Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:25 AM : [ 43 1E D2 1] DON 1 Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:25 AM : [D2D EVENT ] Event [43 1E D2 1] [ST] [1] uom=100 prec=0 Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:25 AM : [ 43 1E D2 1] ST 1 (uom=100 prec=0) Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:25 AM : [D2D-CMP 0065] STS [43 1E D2 1] ST Converted values Event=1 Condition=0 prec=0 Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:25 AM : [D2D-CMP 0065] STS [43 1E D2 1] ST op=6 Event(val=1 uom=100 prec=0) != Condition(val=0 uom=51 prec=0) --> true Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:25 AM : [D2D-CMP 0020] STS [43 1E D2 1] ST Converted values Event=1 Condition=0 prec=0 Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:25 AM : [D2D-CMP 0020] STS [43 1E D2 1] ST op=1 Event(val=1 uom=100 prec=0) is Condition(val=0 uom=51 prec=0) --> false Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:25 AM : [INST-SRX ] 02 50 43.1E.D2 00.02.01 CB 11 01 LTONRR (01) Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:25 AM : [Std-Group ] 43.1E.D2-->Group=1, Max Hops=3, Hops Left=2 Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:25 AM : [D2D EVENT ] Event [43 1E D2 1] [DON] [1] uom=0 prec=-1 Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:25 AM : [ 43 1E D2 1] DON 1 Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:26 AM : [INST-SRX ] 02 50 43.1E.D2 00.03.01 CF 11 01 LTONRR (01) Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:26 AM : [Std-Group ] 43.1E.D2-->Group=1, Max Hops=3, Hops Left=3 Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:26 AM : [D2D EVENT ] Event [43 1E D2 1] [DON] [1] uom=0 prec=-1 Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:26 AM : [ 43 1E D2 1] DON 1 Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:26 AM : [INST-SRX ] 02 50 43.1E.D2 11.01.01 CB 06 00 (00) Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:26 AM : [Std-Group ] 43.1E.D2-->11.01.01, Max Hops=3, Hops Left=2 Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:26 AM : [INST-INFO ] Previous message ignored. Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:26 AM : [INST-SRX ] 02 50 43.1E.D2 11.01.01 C3 06 00 (00) Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:26 AM : [Std-Group ] 43.1E.D2-->11.01.01, Max Hops=3, Hops Left=0 Mon 12/06/2021 09:53:26 AM : [INST-INFO ] Previous message ignored.

I just did a daughterboard swap with a new USB one. The entire process took about 5 minutes, not including the time it took to replace the PLM in ISY. Everything appears to be working fine though I am still experiencing a weird local control status issue I'll post about in the correct forum.

Wow good news indeed! I think I'll try the daughterboard swap and maybe pick up another USB PLM and a Polisy before the holidays. Have some vacation coming up and that would be a good time to migrate. I guess it'll be a good opportunity to clear out the flotsam of unused programs and resources built up over the years. Gonna go start reading up on the migration process and I'm sure I'll be asking more questions if I get stuck. Thanks again for the great info I always get from the community rob

Thanks for the detailed information, much appreciated. I definitely plan on holding off as long as possible. My current PLM is over 4 years old and has started missing the occasional local control event more and more often. Last one did that for several months before completely giving up the ghost. As for swapping the daughterboard, I guess I'm just a bit nervous about potentially breaking a mostly-working PLM. I guess best scenario at this point is make it far enough until the Home Assistant/Polisy/Insteon integrations mature. Once moved over to the Polisy I should hopefully be able to start transitioning to RA3 (or Thread or whatever else)

I've been an ISY user since the 99i days (994i currently) and am 100% insteon heavily integrated into Home Assistant. I have a 2413s PLM 9e (the latest I believe) and yesterday purchased a 2413u after reading it can be used with the Polisy and possibly swapping the daughterboard with the serial PLM should the need arise (knock on wood). So... 1 - Is/will Polisy supported by Home Assistant? 2- If I eventually switch to the Polisy Insteon nodeserver, does it appear like an ISY to HA? Will it even work in HA without a Polisy-specific integration? 3- I'm considering migrating to RadioRA3 down the road and say I'm using an Insteon nodeserver and RA3 nodeserver. Would Polisy expose both as generic light entities and HA wouldn't know or care whether they are RA3 or Insteon? 4- Does anyone have links to pics/videos of a USB/Serial daughterboard swap on a PLM? And finally, anyone know of a person or company that refurbishes PLMs for a price if supplied with the PLM and caps? Would that be a better solution than a daughterboard swap? Any advice/insight much appreciated. thanks rob

Thanks for the reply. I guess it was possible I had a short though I didn't notice anything amiss when I pulled down the fixture to test it. I was extra careful when I replaced the fixture after testing so I'm pretty confident about the wiring now. I did find the some old v1 switches so I'll definitely be using 1 of them to test before installing the new one.

So today I was wrapping up a bathroom remodel and replaced the mushroom fixture in the WC with an LED disk light. I air-gapped the dimmer while I replaced the fixture and when I went to test everything, the dimmer made a popping sound like a fuse blowing when I pushed the airgap back in. Circuit breaker did NOT trip. The dimmer module appears to work insofar as the indicator LEDs light up and it turns on other lights in the scene. I pulled the fixture and pig-tailed it to an extension cable and it works fine. Turning on the defective dimmer, I'm measuring 0v on the load line w/ my meter. Obviously the dimmer switch is no good, and having no spares I had to order a couple from our good friends to the north (thanks to this forum for the hint). My question: Before I replace the dimmer switch with a brand new, and apparently now rare, one, do you think the new LED fixture can blow out the dimmer like that? It does state it's dimmable and I have never one had a problem w/ mixing dimmable LED bulbs and fixtures w/ insteon. Do you think it was simply bad coincidence? I may have a few old v1 dimmer switches sitting in a box somewhere. If I can find them I might test the LED fixture w/ a sacrificial switch before I replace w/ the new one. Thoughts? thanks rob

Ahh THANK YOU!!! I now better understand Alexa's logic when it comes to rooms. I was only testing one TV. Now that I put them all in their respective rooms it seems to work fine (after having to wait a bit for the changes to take. Next will be doing the same with the ceiling fans. This is really taking the usability her up a notch!