larryllix

Are you saying Insteon transmits more or less power than Z-wave? Without any personal experience, I thought I have read comments indicating Z-Wave has a shorter distance capability.

That units looks good if you wanted to have 12v battery backup. My CAI board puts out 5vdc on the 1wire terminals. Make sure you get hardware 2.2.2 (current) and v2.03.17 or newer. The firmware is updatable without returning the board. Shipping costs are the prohibitive factor in this game.

The CAI board has three terminals for 1wire, 5V, data,and common. These feed the CAI board and any other 1wire devices on that 3wire bus. The CAI board has a recommended 9v power supply to a 7805 regulator. I am told I can just wire into the interface (1wire or humidity sensor terminal) with a 5v power supply like a getting to be standard microUSB / USB power supply. I haven't tried this and to be in parallel with a regulator chip output, I am not too sure about. At 9v the regulator runs hot but tolerable. I recommend gluing a heat sink onto it, especially if over 9v. I run 9-10v and it's hot without the sink. 7.5 may have worked better but harder to get and if the whole thing gets scrapped the 9v adapter works for the Insteon MSs. The SWE3 contains two chips, ie. humidity sensor (optional in purchase) and battery monitor chip. I think the spec says these chips will operate at very low voltages. Not sure about 3v without researching chip specs. BTW: this battery monitor contains a temp. sensor (0.1c resolution), voltage A/D for the humidity chip or other input via terminals provided, and a current accumulator A/D input that is designed for keeping track of current charging and draining in a battery. Thus the battery monitor name. The CAI board is well suited to these small jobs as a peripheral to the ISY. I have some reboot problems with mine so far but the CAI_support is working on it and has done some mods in the firmware. I may have a noisy PS but I have been too lazy to get the scope out, so far, and expecting a better switching wallwart replacement soon. The main reason I went CAI is the 2MHz counter in hardware on the board, that works excellent for my anemometer, and 1wire I/f.

The CAI board came with a case and with shipping came to about $70 http://www.ebay.com/itm/WebControl-timer-temperature-humidity-I-O-controller-HW-2-2-2-/260849255154?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cbbd3c2f2 I ordered the SWE3 and the RPi 1wire adapter, just in case I switch to the Rpi later. With shipping and all that came to about $105. Note: There is no duty charged coming into Canada, under $200 they will not even bother to stop packages. Don't fall for the latest eBay, "Worldwide Shipping" money grab scam.

The SWE3 module is based on the DS2438z which will give you temperature as well as humidity. This was an unexpected bonus for me and eliminated some extra wiring connections at the top on my weather pole.

In the Windows o/s classically if you closed the window via the formal "file | close/quit" menu method the window size was remembered as it was when closed. If you click the "X" the settings are forgotten.

You didn't say what the two devices were but is there a way to transmit the data from the 1wire host to the other device? A CAI Webcontrol board with a string of 1wire probes on it could send readings to two ISY units.

The strobing of program status is something I have seen. Disabling the offending program caused it to stop then I could examine the "if" conditions for items controlled by it's own "then" or "else" section. Of course if this involves a "round robin" of several program interlinked this gets lot more complicated. State variables can be dangerous this way. Check your events for repeated device codes. After watching your video I see those two programs are already disabled. It would appear they call each other in a loop fashion. In view of the slow speed they do this I would guess there is another looping structure going on somewhere else also. Maybe the video doesn't show the actual speed or maybe the Admin Console doesn't either. Another thought I had was a firmware add-on or 3rd party software that is stuffing more variables into ISY than you have defined or are overlapping and writing to state variables they aren't supposed to be.

If you like to tinker and best yourself with complex logic the Hub is not for you. ISY and HomeSeer both require a computer running 24/7. ISY comes with it's own cigarette pack size computer that has no moving arts and draws about 3 Watts or less and is extremely stable. A PC is going to draw much more power and software running under Windows is going to be a lot less stable. When you want to play a game on your PC you may risk your automation setup, including your humidifier or heating control or notification you have a leaking pipe in your basement. It can get serious if you are like most of us. It definitely becomes a serious hobby and obsession. I have run HomeSeer and to interface all kinds of specialised software you write yourself it probably wins. You can find downloads of hacked versions to try online. I run an ISY994i and if I had a chance to select again I would select the ISY994i. The programming is a little weird but gets the job done and it will grow on you. All systems also (X10- HC2000 and even my own self written software) I have used are quirky in their own little world. We will always want more and the UDI people are busy giving it to us.

I would definitely take it out first before any prospective buyer even sees the things. In my area house with pools are hard to sell. I know of several people bought a house with a pool and ended up filling the thing in as they didn't want the costs of maintenance. Without the "special buyer" some things detract from the price you may get. Alternative energy systems can be like that too. People want money subtracted from the list price to have somebody remove it, are afraid of it, etc.. I have also seen many people that wiil not buy a house with a pool only to install one themselves two years after purchase. Years back I sold a house full of X10 switches. After the sale I removed all the X10 switches and replaced them with not-manufactured anymore, small rocker switches. When the buyers came in for their last day inspection the woman freaked out running in right to a switch I had "made disappear" and exclaimed, "Oh good you took out those weird switches. We had no idea what to do with them!". My question would be.... Would you buy a house where somebody else has installed a fancy gadget that you probably don't understand, in it? Would you pay extra for it or use it for an excuse to lower the price offer? In short. The techies want to do it themselves and the non-techies are afraid of it. Yeah, leave a few switches in with one keypad to "dazzle" the young techie into buying the house. Spend many hours training the Real Estate Agent on how and when to push the buttons.

I don't like my equipment connected by an RS232 ground to be on different power supplies personally. Now I don't know what galvanic isolation the OEMs have provided on the ports but lightning discharge disturbances and grid ferroresonance effects from switching on the grid usually don't care. The ISY recovers very well with it's INITialisation variable storage so I am not sure how the UPS benefits you. My ISY994i notifies me via SMS that a reboot has occurred with the time and date. I am still mentally working on the outage time report.

Me thinks your TVS diode is way too low a voltage rating. This should clip about 30vdc. Your supply is likely 24vac peaking at 24 x SQRT(2) = 34v ! Yeah I have made some of my own firecrackers when I got caught with the AC/DC thing (just the electronic portion of that!. ) The MOV is likely doing nothing and blown apart physically or inside. This does look like a tstat hardware defect, now. A replacement should work, IMHO, but I would pass all leads through some toroid to spike protect it. I have two 2441ZTH and they work OK but are not directly connected to anything. There is a previous thread where others have had big issues with this and IMHO it looks like this unit can't take being connected to the real world.

Nothing changed in v4.2.5 for me from v4.2.3. Yes the name lengths can be a problem for some software and each one shows folder names differently. Three status points are correct and the points that ISY usually sets up for the Leak sensor.

Have you considered contacting aartech.ca to see if they would import them for you? Excellent company to deal with, great pricing and delivery, as you may already know.

Right click on the program title and do a "Copy to clipboard". Then paste your program here using the <> so we can analyse it. Usually two programs are needed with the second, called one, containing time filters, disabled from triggers.

(I can't quote or paste but...) The Hub comment sounds like an uneducated dig at non-Hub controllers.

@Brian H: Yeah the definition is about the 'de-energised' state of the device. In industrial electronics we run into a lot of latching relays and devices that can stay in either state without being 'energised' blowing the standard definition out of the water. Then the 'a' and 'b' contact definition came into being. An 'a' contact is closed when the device is closed. A 'b' contact is closed when the device is open. A 'c' form contact has both on one contact blade (just to be confusing) These terms are often used on commercial garage door closer pallet contacts even though adjustable to any angle. OK, now when is a lock 'energised', 'de-energised', 'closed' or 'open'?

In addition attempt to switch the scene on and off manually to make sure it functions as you desire.

@oberkc (since there doesn't seem to be any way to quote somebody for clarity and that was very small of you ) The way I understand it is that "status" only triggers on the change of the device's status and "condition" triggers from the initiating signal stream to/from the device and the device does not need to change status position. 'Control' is based on signal stream. Triggers every time the 'On' signal to the ISY device's status is received from elsewhere. ie. monitors the data stream inside the ISY. The status does NOT have to change. If Control 'Gathering Room / Remote.C' is switched On Then Set 'Foyer / Doorbell.Back' On 'Status' is based on ISY's internal device status. Triggers each time the status of the ISY internal image value of the device changes to 'Not Off'. Since the 'On' status is not available for this Mini-Remote 'On', 'Dim', 'Brighten', or 'Fast ON' from Remote.C will trigger it **IF** it doesn't result in the internal ISY's device status as 'Off'. If Status 'Gathering Room / Remote.C' is not Off Then Set 'F Set 'Foyer / Doorbell.Back' On Yes I would have used the control also. A contact bounce could cancel the timer but then the remake of the contact should reinitiate the timers again. Interesting one... The garage light stays on during the whole open or ajar period. You may want a long timer for the garage door open period in case of a forgotten closing or door jam reversal.

Try a setting other than 0. I understand these come with a factory setting of 0 that may not be 'Off'. Read this from LeeG. http://forum.universal-devices.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=14117&p=110232&hilit=kpl+LED#p110232

Get an Insteon remote control to mount beside the switch and an Insteon lightbulb. The remote control would have to send a command through your ISY where you could lock it out. This could also be done with a MS and would probably work better. Put the mechanical switch back in and leave the light switch always on.

You need an "On" and an "Off" command to do both. The "Responding" condition shouldn't be in there. Multiple times need to have "OR" logic. Both can never be true at the same time and therefore your "Then" will never get executed, only the empty "Else" If . On Sat, Mon, Wed . Time is 2:00 AM OR . On Fri, Tues, Thu . Time is 1:00 AM Then . Set 'YardLights' On . Wait 2 Hours . Set 'YardLights' Off Else -

Not quite... This would be the step by step process: 1. De-solder and completely remove the internal sensor, uncut, undamaged. 2. Solder in the same place the bare wire ends of the wired sensor (which has its own sensor, of course). (If we stopped here, the unit would now get its internal temperature reading from the wired sensor (this is basically what the OP did).) 3. Connect the removed, original internal sensor to the wire terminal on the inside of the back cover (where the wired sensor would normally go). What we end up with is a reversal of roles: the wired sensor would act as the internal sensor and the internal sensor would act as the wired sensor. Now, I don't know if this would work, from an electronics perspective. Which is why I'm asking if anyone thinks it would. Sure. Shouldn't be a problem. The internal one, now wired as external, can be programmed to operate into heat and cooling contact output command triggers in the ISY as well as the external probe could be sent analogue to the ISY for further logic massaging including multiple logic trigger temperature points.

Many are running MobiLinc Pro on Android. It controls anything but variables, so far.

I set up my router to assign a permanent IP address to my ISY and other devices in a manual assignment (DHCP) table, inside the router. That way they are all static addresses I can depend on. Your router has to know what address your ISY is otherwise it can assign the IP number to another device and you could have duplicate addresses on your LAN. Then things don't work again.