larryllix

Each time you disable the skill, all the devices are removed. When you re-enable the skill, an automatic discover is performed and they re-appear. However my routines are always destroyed and they must be rebuilt and re-enabled. I have done this many times and routines must always be rebuilt.

If you disable the ISY skill in the Alexa app, all your devices will disappear and all your routines will then need to be rebuilt, selecting the triggers again, and then re-enabled. I have done this many times in the past. Despite the trigger points in Alexa fully functioning they will still not trigger the routines. This happened a few years ago and Amazon support did something that fixed it back then.

This is not an ISY or ISY Portal problem. ISY programs change the variables and ISY Portal sends the update to the amazon app and it shows a change in status, ecah time within a few seconds. The routine works perfectly when manually tested and the routine is installed and enabled perfectly. The alexa triggers just do not trigger the routine actions to happen. Mine have been enabled, disabled, deleted, rebuilt, rediscovered and tested throughout every stage. The 30 second delay has been observed, even over the next day many times. The problem is 100% amazon.s software. I suspect it is amazon's interface with IFTTT has broken.

Exact same thing here including the testing getting down to amazon. I put in a support complaint a few days ago and got no response. I suggest other put in an amazon ticket about this also. Mine haven't triggered since Feb 27th.

I have a support ticket launched with UDI on this issue. My program varaible hits are all recorded at 5 hours previously to the real time. The system time clock functions are all off by 5 hours also. At 7:00 PM the [minutes since start of day] return 0 minutes. This is all despite the forefront clocks all indicating EST, my time zone. These time clock problems have always existed on every IoP version. Sunrise and sunset times are also off by 5 hours.

@Michel Kohanim I have the same problem with my polisy clock(s). Program changes to variable record them 5 hours too early (I am in EST) Manual vaiable value changes report the correct times. I also found the system [minutes since beginning of day] uses about 5 PM as a base time instead of 12:00 PM. Admin console shows current time and sunset/sunrise as correct. I have opened tickets for both these problems since I ported ISY9994 code over to polisy.

Good catch! Repeats usually need a terminator so that following lines don't repeat in a loop fashion also. In this case of an infinitely repeating time loop, there is "no out". UDI needs to implement a Break on xxxxxx condition construct yet.

You have a useless Repeat construct. The lines to be repeated are found indented under the repeat loop construct command. To terminate the repeat loop use Repeat 1 times after the lines you want repeated. Repeat every 30 minutes .....do something in a loop Repeat 1 times do the rest only once. If you want two condition you can use this construct Repeat 20 times ....do something 20 times ....Wait 20 minutes Repeat 1 times Do more lines only once Etc... Move your Repeat line up one.

Posting this concern in a thread about polisy, has caused some confusion here. The thread titles tend to get missed once you scroll down through them.

Much simpler and safer to access your ISY via the ISY Portal, using pulldown menus inside it. There have been many reports of hacking people using port forwarding. Not really recommended. Also while I was away on a cruise, my power went down long enough that my ISP issued me a new IP address (first time in 8 years), and I had no access until I got home.

I don't use nodeservers for time functions. I use the native time functions provided inside ISY in programs and notifications. There are various formats that ISY provides built-in.

When you say Alexa...turn off xxxxx The program runs the else section of the program nicknamed xxxxx.

You must identify the program in ISY portal ad a program and then identify it to Alexa as an on off style device, such as a switch. After doing an Alexa 'discover' you should be able to use 'turn on xxxx' and turn off xxxx vocally. Note that Alexa has started being a PITA for things defined as switches, constantly asking if it is controlling light. It gets real annoying after a few dozen occurrences. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

I had an onoffLinc plugin send out random scene on codes instead of an ack a few years ago. It took me about a year to find ir due to known light patterns used in my few Insteon scenes. After searching my programs for some king of bug I created unsuccessfully for about a year every few weeks, I found some bad codes in my ISY error logs. Then I related the occurrence times with commands I sent to my humidifier. It didn't happen every time just randomly and random scene patterns. From that experience, I conclude that not only do Insteon Scenes not send any confirmation of status, they also have no data integrity checks and I now avoid as many scene usages as I conveniently can. The protocol is a bad one and was never improved by Smarthome. This reflects the rest of SHs poor technical attitude and why they will go bankrupt soon. They are complete morons. The fix at the time was just to unplug the OnOffLinc and plug it back in again. This never happened again for a few years until about two weeks ago. Lately I have found a few random lights on and traced it to the same module. This time the module will go into the garbage. Note on Polisy the errors appear in the Log and the error log does not show any errors at this version and time, so the errors are found differently. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

Access to Insteon products requires a PLM of some kind. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

You must hit the save button first before testing any NR.

Leak.Kitchen.OK - [ID 0133][Parent 00CD] If 'Kitchen / Kitch.LD.dry / Kitch.LD.heartbeat' is switched On Or 'Kitchen / Kitch.LD.dry / Kitch.LD.heartbeat' is switched Off Then $sLeak.Kitchen Init To $cLEAK.DRY <---------- ***************** $sLeak.Kitchen = $cLEAK.DRY Wait 25 hours Run Program 'Leak.Kitchen.OK' (Else Path) Else $sLeak.LowBatt.room Init To $cROOM.KITCHEN <-------------- *************** $sLeak.LowBatt.room = $cROOM.KITCHEN $sLeak.Kitchen Init To $cLEAK.LOWBATT <--------------------- ************* $sLeak.Kitchen = $cLEAK.LOWBATT Wait 23 hours Run Program 'Leak.Kitchen.OK' (Then Path) 'Init to' is at the bottom of the arithmetic operator pulldown list

You can't. The first 1,00,00 bulbs were a defective design they dumped on the market. They were replaced with better bulbs after a few years. I don't believe you can ever do all the colours properly with three LEDs. TV's seems to do it but there must be something in the colour selection the bulbs use. The big difference is $8 per bulb now, vs $50-$60 per bulb in Hue. 15.3' RGBW strips about $30 with controller and PSU, vs (long time since I have seen them) $100 per 3' Hue RGB? strips.

I have defined three shades of purple.called violet, mauve and puroe so I assume almost any hue can be produced from them. My RGBW strip colour also match my bulbs from about four different manufacturers. My Hue bulbs contain no Green LED at all. They attempted to produce all colours an white shades from 3 LEDs and it couldn't be done. I feel ripped off by Philips and won't touch their stuff anymore. I can't remember now (bulbs are in a scrap ready box in storage right now) but IIRC the LEDs were Red, Indigo and Lime green Yellow. The Reds and blues were good, but the best green was about the same as the old fluorescent tubes from the 60s-70s. I can give you my python3 code if you want to send NRs from your ISY. It takes some editing inside the user-spec module to define your IP addresses, and set up 3-4 NRs for ON/Off/Set/Effect. These bulbs contain about 25 built-in effects. I find most useless except for the flashing effect. Great for alarms with no ISY load. Or you can install the MagicHome NR but it still may contain some long delays for multiple bulbs due to using some git-hub interface module technique. I haven't tried a recent version.

I use about 25 MagicHome protocol WiFi bulbs and they stay connected mostly unless there is some bad disturbances. Most of the time a simple power cycle makes them reconnect just fine. They respond correctly about 99% of the time. One problem is the 3-4 power blink factory reset algorithm most of them use. IMHO the key is to send keepalive signals every few minutes so the bulbs and RGBW strips do not lose their connections. However, I use a separate old router, but the main router still must keep all the IP addresses and provide DHCP reservations for all devices, as well as the bulbs and strips. This likely takes a more modern router as I have had a previous unit that just couldn't handle more than 51 devices properly. I find this capability is never discussed in router specs and the support people have no idea what you are actually asking, when asked. The closest answer I have been told was the number of devices each band can handle...not the correct subject matter. I have not found any limits in newer routers yet at about 85 devices. I use my own software, controlled by four NRs from ISY. Set, On, Off, and Effects NRs are required. I set up a colour factor, RGBlevel, WWlevel, and CWlevel variable and then use the set NR. Using negative numbers invokes predefined groups of bulbs or RGBW strips for a very fast response from groups without much popcorn effects, due to prepping all bulbs before turning them on simultaneously. My software currently shares my polisy box along with ISY and polyglot2. IOW: WiFi bulbs can work but drivers need to be well written or poor quality responses may be seen. I used MiLight bulbs for a few years but they require a hub for every four bulbs. Nice colours and good whites. I used Philips Hue bulbs but they were such poor colours I have abandoned them. One bulb...a Tulip? style gave nice colours but at about 1 watt of light. It's colouring didn't match the other five bulbs that didn't contain a green LED. I abandoned Hue due to extreme pricing and worst RGBW bulb colouring I have experienced. Absolute garbage, but very nice API interface. I wouldn't trust Hue ever again, not to screw their customer base over again. I can't afford thousands of dollars for bulbs and RGBW strips when I can spend a few hundred for the same MagicHome protocol bulbs available from so many compatible sources now.

You can access things inside by using the sudo prefix (super user do). Be very careful using "sudo" as you are then playing with system things and can make a mess that requires serious repair. If you change permissions or ownership of files or directories you may lock polyglot out of accessing them.

polisy uses a port as well as SSH and other protocols. That is how the drivers at the receiving end know what protocol to use in response. Using filezilla, use port 22 and it will assume you want the sftp:// protocol. You will need to insert your username and password you use to connect to polyglot for it to make automatic connections. After that, you will see it on the quick connect pulldown menu.

I use Fillezilla, mostly, to transfer files back and forth to my RPis, polisy and Windows 10 laptop. I can create, delete, or move, a new file, folder right on the device or create it on my Win 10 machine and transfer it to polisy when done. It allows me to see the file structure more graphically than freeBSD text only interface. Filezilla is a free piece of software, well written, stable, and gets updated frequently with new features. Runs on Win 10/11.

I find the same thing with many other items also. it is not just ISY trying to take over. With the pandemic congestion, I get emails and text messages warning me of events that happened the previous day. This pandemic is slowing things down more than we want to admit. Also with truckers blockading major routes it may be dragging the data speeds down with it. I know the truckers all have CB radios and they use RF frequencies that may be killing our WiFi items. We need to blame them possibly. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

I use MagicHome compatible controllers. They are WiFi based, 12v or 24v switching controllers, good for about 15.3 feet strips of RGBWW/CW, can mix WW/CW and RGB, and handle up to 6 amperes of LED strips. I use 12v PSUs and have found a wall-wart type 12v, 3A supply can run them easily. The WW LEDs produce a beautiful rich white suitable for kitchen/work surfaces as well as most living situations. There is an old thread about various RGBW controllers a few years back. There are several brands that are compatible, and there is a MagicHome NS. I wrote my own bridge software and operate it from four ISY NRs to give me faster grouping without popcorn effects. My NRbridge software is currently running on my polisy along with ISY and PG2. The controllers I am using are LEDenet brand. All compatiible with many brands of RGBCW (five LED colours) bulbs too.