50-50

Maybe a little sloppy, but can you control the device with two identical programs with different names (Then/Else), for one program add the spoken name "X light" and the other "X lights" in portal?

That would be awesome - lets hope that is the root cause of failure and not the symptom.

Not necessarily, it depends on the internal components used... While there are fairly strict UL "rules" for switches, etc, that are being "touched", I'd bet (although I don't know for certain without more research), the PLM is a "consumer device" that I doubt needs to conform to the same specs. In any event, for example, a 250V input cap is "enough" on paper for a 120V system (ignoring all the power disturbances we see today)... whereas a 400V rating gives additional headroom before failure at a small incremental cost (and is normally used in European devices with a 208V nominal base).

3 years old is an ancient PLM... I've been getting ~ 2 yrs on them. Since we can't put them on filtered power (it would filter the signal out), they are more prone to electrical interference than most electronics that we plug into filtered power strips... Safe to say its nothing to do with Echo, has more to do with your electric provider, your location on the power feeder, lightning storms, arcs or just cars hitting poles (+ the lack of a filter on the supply). I suspect those who fix them are putting a >=400V cap on the hot line input, something smarthome should consider for $0.02 more (space permitting), if they are not already. My last dead one is still on the bench waiting for a dismantle, we'll see... PS: slingbox has/(had) a similar issue, the input cap is too weak for the modern grid. Re: the Echo (need something on topic) - she ran my "good night" program flawlessly last night, no more fumbling for KPL buttons on my way into the bedroom with my hands full! The Connected Home integration is absolutely phenomenal so far! Time to train the tribe.

I found that its best to "disable" the Echo "Then (on)/Else (off)" program too - I've had instances where I've entered an off/on/off/on perpetual cycle... likely has to do with the way I update my KPL buttons for status around the house... simply disabling the program in the Admin Console makes it work great.

Phenomenal! Added 4 lights w/ connected home method, 100% accuracy! Took 2 minutes total (inc. reading ref post). Using the "tell izzy" method was hitting maybe 60% success rate. Will do the rest soon and report back to that thread. Awesome, guys! Just need to know which forum group to read, I guess!

Hi guys! Been working (slowly due to my job) to get Echo integrated. Getting some pressure from the inhabitants to get this done now... I have two suggestions, FWIW: 1. Change the instructions on echo.amazon.com ISY skill to reflect all the changes (like lack of "refresh devices") since it was written. Or point to the forum. 2. Make a "Definitive Echo Integration" sticky post here with the real instructions, working/non-working words, best practices, etc. Don't allow random debug posts in the sticky - only update with what works with the current code set. A little bit of a rant, knowing full well this is all new and changing fast and everyone is working their *sses off (thank you!). I've spent a lot of time reading threads with 20/50/+ pages to piece together what should be simple. I finally got two rooms working - need to come up with "obvious" 1-2 word names that don't include the word "light" or "lights" for ~40 switches. Hard to do, since my kitchen/dining (open concept) has 6 separate lighting groups/switches alone. I'd also love to be able to skip the "tell izzy to" part... I only have one home automation controller (was a design requirement when I built this thing). Perhaps there is a way to tell Alexa where to default to....? -- If I pause for just a second after "tell izzy to" then I have to listen to her greeting.... sigh. Yes, I sigh every time I have to hear it. -- The voice integration ROCKS, it just needs to be faster than walking to a switch! "Alexa, tell Izzy to turn on kitchen to 80%" is 15 syllables! -- In the above line, "turn on" is redundant to "to 80%". Is there a faster way? -- Now to train the household... :c) For those that have more than one Echo integration point, they could select their default device and name the others for what makes most sense to their setup. Thanks for all the hard work on this! 50/50

Awesome, Michel! Looing forward to getting it up and running! Best - 50-50

Happy Thanksgiving!! Well, Amazon is offering the Echo for $150 shipped (prime) today and tomorrow. Somehow my other half is excited about this -- note she NEVER gets excited about home automation..... however she asked if it [Echo] can integrate with what I have done already (ISY)... I said, "sure", however now I see here I need a "Hub 2" (2245-222)... Okay, fine, BUT -- how far along is the ISY Portal? Would it be ready to install/test or even in "production" by, say, Jan 1? If so, I can skip laying out the cash for a Hub2 which will just become a paperweight very soon? I am not interested in the original middleware solution as I don't leave a PC on 24/7. The ISY is my central 24/7 controller (lights, garage doors, doorbell, phone, flood, HVAC, Universal Remote, ...). Best -- 50-50

I would first find out the reason there is a switch for an upstairs fan in the kitchen. If the reason is real, ie. electric code where you live, then I'd put an insteon switch upstairs, abandon the 3-way wiring, and put a KPL downstairs (as Teken/oberkc mentioned, cap the red load wire) and link the buttons as you like... with one button linked to the upstairs fan switch. If the reason is not good, ie., previous homeowners convenience, I'd abandon the 3-way wiring to make a normal 2-way switch upstairs, cap the extra wire downstairs and install any spare KPL in the kitchen with full use of all buttons for other things. EDIT: was the reason to tie into an existing GFCI protected circuit? If yes, you can still eliminate the switch, just make sure the circuit is tied together correctly.

Loaded 4.2.18 from this link. I'm stuck. Can not log in. ISY RX/TX lights on solid. I get the Admin Console but "File->Logon" is greyed out and all tabs are empty (Main/Program/Configuration). A little worried...

Thanks. I was running 4.2.17 when the PLM died. I just grabbed the 4.2.18 from the link above. Is this different than the "normal" firmware? Do I need to reload to "standard" when a new PLM arrives?

Okay, I know someone has to have covered this before... but after a number of searches and lots of false hits.. here goes: My PLM died. Dead. Taps. Ordered new one. Delivery: Next Monday I have some functions that use programs, variables and the network module. No Insteon function at all. However, I now have no programs are running at all (the my programs folder is empty) . I can still see state variables being updated, etc. Is this by design (and if so, why?) and if not, how do I fix it between now and Monday? Is it due to 'safe mode' which is entered due to no PLM? Detail: My Autelis bridge and Dataloggers DIN rely on the network module and programs to run my heating. Having or not having a PLM is irrelevant to that automation. Thanks 50/50

Moving along... Temp sensors are in (11 total so far, 7 with attached thermostats.... 9 more to go), bridge is dumping values to ISY. I am able to log and graph right out of the ISY using client side JS and the webserver... Although the charting needs some work to allow zooming and panning... (a little beyond my knowledge right now and not the primary concern). Some pics attached. In the graph, the top line is the "binary boiler on/off".. two of those bumps are the shower. The rest is heating. Cold already in the north east. Now to write some control programs.

Slightly off my own topic, but relevant to what I am doing here... is there a 120v switch (decora / wall switch) that will give me: CC, CV, PPW, TPW and PF? It seems 2477S does not. Ref: http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i_Series_INSTEON:Custom_Email_Substitution_Variables Edit>> potentially an outlet could do the trick, but it would need to be in an enclosure outside (there is a GFI outlet out there now).