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Everything posted by paulbates
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ISY Portal does not require any inbound ports open nor port forwarding; when using the portal your ISY994 connects outbound to the cloud server. Right... when things like mail ports were mentioned, I was thinking he meant outbound ports were getting blocked. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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What about iot that uses its own non standard ports like the isy portal? paul
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My ip4 subnet has changed, staring with the first octet, a few times recently. But no port blocking. Is it possible you have router-behind-router and the Comcast router/cable modem is doing it? Paul
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Tom It's really conditional based on the property. Ideally I could have one more on my garage covering the other side of the cars. But I get really good coverage now. Maybe start with one and see how it works for a week or so. If you're not happy with it, then add another one, it can just be added to the same scene for whatever devices/actions you turn on. Last fall It went off, and there were 2 guys that were 60' away got in a truck and drove off. I think they believed that my led yard lights were solar and were planning to pull some up, (they are not solar). About the time they reached for one, they got a dose of floodlights.. that was the end of it, other than pushing the yardlights back in. Paul
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Hi Tom I use the insteon motion sensor to cover my driveway area and turn on the floodlights when something is there .The first jumper reduces its sensitivity by about one third. That's how I keep it from triggering fromevery car that goes by on the street or people on the sidewalk. It takes a little experimenting to get the placement right, but it's a really good solution once you do. Paul
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Hi Michael There's 2 ways I have to do this: The first is part of venlink and Venstar under Nodelink. io_guy added functionality to his software for venstar that manages humidity between a set range based on a number of inputs. It provides a number of settings for humidity range, window type and fine grained adjustment plus or minus. It really sophisticated but specific to the Venstar colortouch thermostats with humidity control. The second is a set of simple ISY programs that look at the outside temp. Each program owns a range of outside temps and adjusts the humidity setpoint down/up. I have a 1 degree "deadband" between each program so that its not constantly calling when the temp is switching between the boundary temps. I had pushover notifications when initially tweaking the programs, and the constant back and forth at certain temperatures generated an annoying number of notifications. The "Thens" for these programs simply sets a new humidity level in the venstar colortouch thermostat. I think I have 9 programs. I'm not home this week and forgot my surface, can't get in right now, but its very simple and straight forward. Something like this, times 9 to cover the highest humidity to the lowest if outsidetemp => xx and outsidetemp <yy set humidification zz% This gently steps it down and up. I have a couple of windows in a windward corner of the house that were hard to get right and the programs let me tweak humidity inside of temperature ranges until they are dry all of the time. The pushover notifications used variables to help with the tweaking. For stats that don't support humidity but have ISY fan calls, it could be accomplished with the climate module,a relative humidity sensor and contact closure controlling a 24vac relay for the humidifier. I would have the "then" in the 9 programs set a variable to the desired humidity. Add one stand alone program to control humidification: If indoor humidity < desired humidity Set fan on Set humidifier on else set humidifier off wait 2 minutes //blow through the last of the water Set fan off Not terribly sophisticated, but very effective. Keeping the humidity as high as possible is good for the bills and also family/pet health Paul
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Its an optional software module for the ISY that brings weather data into your ISY from the internet so you can use it in programs like the above example. I also use it for sprinkler and HVAC Programs Here is the technical info. Paul
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I have a Windland temp alert that operates the same way in my attic. I was able to wire high and low temp alerts together as you've indicated. The way I use it is a high temp alert at 80F and a freezing conditions warning at 20 to cycle the attic fan . I can guess which one it is based on outside temp, using the climate module to discern... If its >60 it can't be the freeze alert. If your temp sensing needs are closer, this may not work or require some experimenting to calibrate it. These things are very basic, but lab grade and hard to destroy. Mines been in the attic for 13+ years. EDIT: DUH... that's pretty much the same unit I have!! Forgot the model number long ago. Paul
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This is a testimonial about the ISY and energy management. My energy company provides analytic reports that compare my home's use of energy vs other homes in the immediate area. Not a perfect measuring stick, but it does eliminate factors like heating degree days... everybody's bill in the same area should be affected by a warmer spring for example. I replaced furnaces in 2014 and insulated in 2015 and that brought the score down. Last years work on fan cycle and humidity have helped it even more. Last year at this time I was close to a third of the way between "Efficient Homes" and "Similar Homes". This year I nudged up on the top 20 efficient homes. This change is related to ISY program tweaking for: HVAC fan calls - running the fans for both units 24x7 proved to be unnecessary and used too much electricity. But periodically cycling the fans keeps humidity and temps even through out the living spaces. It can push off a heat cycle or two per day depending on conditions. Humidity set point adjustments - Keeping the humidity set point higher makes us more comfortable and holds more heat in the air. However, when the temps drop, higher humidity sweats and frosts the windows. Tweaking the set point to drop with colder outside temps to just where sweating started allowed it to stay as high as possible. I use the climate module for the outside temp. A related factor is that heat and humidity fluctuate differently and at different times. Calling the humidifier and fan separately from heat makes a difference in the humidity being just high enough at all times without sweating the windows. Paul
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In v4 of the isy, you can't mix Insteon and isy scenes. Your best bet is creating an isy program based on the node change Paul
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Amazon adds thermostat query capabilities to echo
paulbates replied to paulbates's topic in Amazon Echo
Hi Michel, Yes, I understand that for sure. Paul -
Hi Tom Its supported: Link management menu New Insteon Device Scroll down the device type list to 3.06 Add the address and it should install I think the irlincs are powerline only. One possible problem is that A/V gear is very noisy. Try locating the IRlinc elsewhere, near the PLM for initial install. If that works, its very likely noise from TV, DVR,... other electronics. If that's it, those need to be plugged in behind a filterlnc to quiet them down Paul
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Amazon adds thermostat query capabilities to echo
paulbates replied to paulbates's topic in Amazon Echo
Got a confirmation email from Venstar, they said to watch for a press release Paul -
Amazon adds thermostat query capabilities to echo
paulbates replied to paulbates's topic in Amazon Echo
Great, thanks for the follow up.. For Nest, I was referring to user comments to amazon's post a few days ago. I know that today it still doesn't work for Venstar. To clarify, you didn't need to delete the old skill, and/or load a new one? Paul -
Amazon is trickling out improvements to the initial thin skillsets released with the echo. Amazon announced this week that it added thermostat query to their smarthome skill set. The individual smarthome skills need to be updated by their manufacturers to support it. A handful like Honeywell, seem to have made the update, Nest users are reporting that it does not work, neither does it work yet for Venstar. Here are the additional capabilities. Not earth-shattering, but it is progress. Time to bug your manufacturer if its not working for your thermostat. Paul
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Is it not limited from an I2CS perspective? There may be support issues with newer devices? Paul
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It sounds like a capacitor popped, and those are the weak link in PLMs. You can try a factory reset, but I wouldn't expect that to work Paul
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Hi- Sounds like a dying/dead PLM. You can try Restore modem and it may buy you a little time. Here is a link to review http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/19331-my-plm-died-and-i-bought-a-new-one-what-should-i-do-next/ Paul
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Thanks Benoit, and Andy/Bumbershoot for forging ahead and trying it out. I'm trying to determine the application scope of nodeservers via the portal. Is the basic concept that nodeserver devices I can interact with today in my ISY programs will be exposed and controlled via the portal? Paul
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Thats why I put the caveat in there . The old ones are single band only for sure, i would look at the manual for your model... At the risk of tempting fate, its amazing my old ones haven't died given the environment.. attic and detached garage. If you have a lamplic or something db, just plug it temporarily onn the circuit with the iolinc to test what happens. Paul
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Stan- In a scene, the ISY configures the scene initially, but is not an active player in scene execution when one device is linked directly to another... eg the ISY is not a cause. What you listed indicates that the MS can be seen by the ISY, but not the iolinc. And keep in mind that the iolinc is single band powerline only, at least the older ones are. In my case, I have 2 iolincs in my garage. I would occasionally get messages that one could not be reached. I put an Access Point (in today;s world, Range Extenders are used instead... same idea) in my garage with line-of-site to dual band switches in the house. That was the end of it. I'm thinking the iolinc is at the end of a long circuit and not getting reach, and/or there is noise on the line wherever the iolinc is Paul
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Hi Stan It's a scene and should work immediately. My back floodlights are triggered by an ms, plus 3 keypad keys... all work immediately. I also have a keypad key that operate an iolinc for my garage door.. again it's immediately. My guess is that the ms rf signal from the ms does not have a clear path to the iolinc and the pause is due to consuming hops and retransmission A range extender might be needed Paulo
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Who on the forum is being helped with what at this point in this thread? We're all individually capable of reading and deciding for ourselves. Please either walk away, or continue the bashing in a pm - if there somehow is still value in this discussion for you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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To finish off what I did: Alternating fans 10 mins on and off - keeps temps even across the living spaces without 24x7 operation If the fan is run right after an AC cycle completes, it forces the moisture from the condenser back into the living space. Give it time to drain before fan cycling (22 minutes) HVAC Cycle US Fan - [ID 0030][Parent 0017] If 'HVAC / Upstairs' Heat/Cool State is Idle And 'HVAC / Upstairs' Humidity Active is False And 'Attic / Attic-Damper Control' Status is Off And 'Kitchen / Doorwall Sensor-Opened' Status is Off Then Wait 22 minutes Repeat While $True is $True Set 'HVAC / Upstairs' Fan Mode On $V_US_Fan_Cycle_Sequence += 1 Wait 10 minutes Set 'HVAC / Upstairs' Fan Mode Auto Wait 10 minutes Else Set 'HVAC / Upstairs' Fan Mode Auto $V_US_Fan_Cycle_Sequence = 0
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The subtleties are helpful in determining if the occupants have "revolted" against automation and have take matters into their own hands at the stat