paulbates

Hi John- The signalinc is a passive coupler, and does not active insteon messaging components. Its unlikely its failed or the culprit. Its most likely line noise, possibly caused by the load its self is the culprit. What is the load on the togglinc? Are there electronics, low voltage transformers or things like furnace motors on the circuit near where the togglinc is? Paul

You can create individual scenes and program for each key that detect each key being turned on, Here's how to do it Create one ISY Scene for each key, include the fan and the Key as a controller. That way, the key will turn the fan on instantly And, pressing the lit key a second time will turn the fan back off, if turned on by mistake Create 1 program for each key, here is the pattern If "keypad key B" is switched on --- Pick the key then Wait 2 minutes --- Change the wait in each program to match the key set scene "keypad key b scene" off --- Turns the fan and the key back off I would have a timer program for the A on/off key too, like several hours... you probably do not mean for it to run continuosly You can put the programs all in a folder to keep it organized Paul

Oberkc is correct You can update your current ISY, I went from Zwave to Zigbee ZS for smart meter. UDI had to do a one time admin change on the back end. I would submit a ticket with a link your post above,... use "Contact us" You'll have to open the ISY and swap cards, but its fairly straight forward. https://www.universal-devices.com/udi-support/ Paul

Hi and welcome to the UDI forums! Node Servers are a key feature introduced with the Version 5 of ISY firmware. If you have V5, there will be a Node Servers menu at the top of the Admin Console. If you choose to look at V5, its still alpha/beta. You can read more about it here: http://forum.universal-devices.com/forum/108-50/ Paul

Sorry, I deleted my post after seeing your original post was about a duct booster so thought it wasn't relevant... doh! I originally had it on an x10 sensor that measured when the furnace was on -.Powerflash & Universal modules. I briefly tried the Insteon stat but they locked up when connected to my old furnaces. It's been a few years, but my recollection was when the Insteon was working, it had to be queried a lot to get the program to work... over all it wasn't the best but maybe someone here better knows its ins and outs. I finally went to the Venstar T5900 that reported when it was actually calling heat or AC to the ISY, that's what was eventually adapted to (below). In the coldest part of winter it could run 20 - 25 minute cycles. I had to play with 'wait' times to balance how much was delivered with boost. The Tjernlund is very powerful and redirected a lot of air. I retired this program after insulating that side of the house and replacing the furnaces. HVAC Duct Booster - Kristen - [ID 0020][Parent 0017][Not Enabled] If 'HVAC / Upstairs' Heat/Cool State is Heating Or 'HVAC / Upstairs' Heat/Cool State is Cooling Then Repeat Every 15 minutes Wait 3 minutes Set 'HVAC / Kristen Duct Booster' On Wait 3 minutes Set 'HVAC / Kristen Duct Booster' Off Else Set 'HVAC / Kristen Duct Booster' Off

Hi Bill A few things, What is your polling interval in the Climate module? What does the program 'Snow Probably' do, can you post it? You could try putting a "Repeat every X minutes" as the first statement before "Run Program Snow Probable". Paul

Hi I'm not sure "how close is too close"...but it seems you are really close. For the scenes, yes, that's what I mean. I have several large scenes that are very close to the same thing..but one has some additional device they are convenient for effect and functionality.. but if I had to start chopping, it would be there... if that's possible for you. Paul

Hi Fred The ISY Portal is a cloud based service of which the ISY is a client. They each have a part to play. The ISY logs in to the ISY Portal service. This allows you to close any router ports you have open for the ISY. As you pointed out, the Portal can be thought about in 2 ways: 1) Remote access to the ISY as an internet appliance with no firewall ports open. ISY->Portal->You outside of your home.. The ISY calls out to the portal and stays attached. You login into the ISY Portal to get back in. Functions include: Remote Admin Console, Remote web page access, Remote Home Automation Dashboard... and connectivity for mobile applications that support it.... Mobilinc and Agave are what I'm aware of, I'm sure others do too. You can also reboot, upgrade and look at logs. 2) Connection to 'Cloud HA' Enablers. Today this includes the Amazon Echo and IFTTT (if this then that). UDI has indicated their intent to also include Google Home as well. Since all 3 of these integrate many individual products like thermostats, switches, alarms systems, etc... its likely UDI will consider additional big integration points like the Echo, IFTTT, Home...if more come along. Yes, if you bought and paid for the Network Module, it remains yours.... that's how its worked out for me I use all of its features currently. Its been worth it to me. I don't think UDI will want modify the portal to split those apart when its $2 a month to begin with. Paul

The iolinc has a 5 volt rating for input, and HVAC uses 24 volts AC, so I wouldn't wire it directly to an iolinc Iolinc contact specs: 5V (10mA), GND, Sense, N/C, N/O, Common (28-16 gauge wire) I've seen posts where people have wired the 24vac call to a relay, and let the relay switch the iolinc. One of our more electronically inclined here might know the right part specification, or search around the forums Paul

I've had a hub and taken it apart. Different case, but the daughter card is the same thing you find in the PLM. No difference outside of the interface to local LAN and connect.insteon.com Paul

Hi, No, the ISY doesn't support serial/IP style commutations for the hub like HouseLinc or HomeSeer do. The 2413S is the best to use to insure communication with Insteon products Paul

Before discovering devices on the Echo side, use the ISY portal to select and publish the devices and scenes individually, so the that they can be discovered. If you added them, hit the refresh botton on the top to make sure they are published for the Echo to discover. Paul

This could depend on the state of the ISY and the backup you are using. If you took at backup right before swapping the PLM, then it could have backed up the bad/no link data in the PLM. Note... the directions aren't totally clear.. you can not put all battery devices in linking mode at the same time.. they must be done one at a time. You have to be prepared to either bring them to the system you are using to do the restore, or have a 'runner' going to the right ones at the right time, or be prepared to run to each and come back. For me, with devices all over the place, this always takes time and repeating it several times. Do you have a recent backup from before the PLM died? If so, restore that and try to Restore Modem (link a few posts up) again. Paul

Yes, I have a folder sorted to the bottom of the tree. Inside of there, I have a sub folder for battery alerts and a sub folder unused devices in another. Unused Devices includes the complementary sensor nodes, nodes I'm not currently using (eg an io linc where I'm only using the sensor, and also devices i'm not currently using and have disabled but are ready to to go (appliancelincs, etc). Paul

Hi Andrew, happy new year to you too! In the program, are you turning the light as a device on directly, or the scene associated with key and light? You want to "set scene xxxx on" to get the key to light up too, if you're not doing that. Turning the light on directly vs scene would match the symptoms you're reporting. Paul

Ok, I might have misunderstood based on the initial post, when it comes to the 'repeat every 1 hour'. That part will only work every hour as long as the variable > 100. You can leave the repeat every one hour out Another way to do it with 2 programs Program a (new program) If $dashbox.... > 100 $sumpOn = 1 Else $sumpOn = 0 Program b (existing program, modified) if $sumpOn = 1 Send Notification (...leave as is) $sumpCycles +=1 (count the number of sump pump cycles) Repeat every 1 minute $sumpRuntime += 1 (measure the runtime of the pump.. maybe seconds instead of minutes) I added the statements to count cycles and runtime... You can reset daily, weekly or monthly with another program (set them to 0). Given its winter, probably weekly or monthly is more useful. I do something similar for my furnaces Paul

The primary diagnostic here is link count = 0, even after a restore modem/plm. I would order a new plm and follow the procedure for that: http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:File_Menu#Restore_Modem_.28PLM.29 Paul

Hi John Because the ISY program is evaluating a variable, its executing any time that variable changes. Chances are what you are seeing is a steady increase in voltage, each change re-executing the program I would put a 10 second wait as the first statement of the "Then" section of the program, that will give the pump time to start and stabilize, and the changes get a chance to complete. I would do this If (....leave as is) Then wait 10 seconds Repeat every one hour Send Notification (....leave as is) Paul

There is not a hard 1:1 relationship from device to to total link count. For example, I have several large scenes to turn off ~20 devices. These scenes are hosted in the plm. I have a number of keypads, and they need scenes to control the buttons.... in addition I also define scenes with those same buttons and lots of other devices. The point is, if you have some really big scenes to turn large groups of devices on and off, you can look at consolidating or reducing them. I'd prefer not to do it that way, but you're banging into an unmovable headroom issue Take a look a your biggest scenes defined on your ISY and see if there is a way to combine or cut back. Paul

That appears to be the symptom of igniter voltage from the furnace traveling down the the 24vac lines. The 2441TH can only handle so much of that and can eventually lock up in response. I had this lock up / 'runaway heat' issue in 2012 with several 2441THs and eventually got my money back. There is a lengthy thread on the forum here about the extent some members went to to fix it with modifications and additional electronics, but I wasn't going there. My house came with standard contractor issue Honeywells, and I installed RCS and now Venstar thermostats on the same furnaces, none of them locked up. I think most people don't have the 'igniter problem'... I also think most thermostat manufacturers design with it in mind. Paul

With a link count of 0 after a restore, I would suspect its the PLM. How old is the PLM, more than 2.5 years? Is the PLM's LED on? Paul

That sounds like the right plan, that's the way you'll know for sure. If that does fix it, then you'll have a spare PLM on hand, which I always do. Paul

If you've swapped for another keypad and get identical results, its pointing at the PLM, I didn't see in the dialogue if your PLM is at or over the 2.5 year 'date of death' mark? If so, the PLM could be on its way to PLM heaven If not, the symptoms could also be potentially explained by being out of link address space. The PLM would not be able to hold the links from the switch to compare and respond to them What's the highest link count you've seen? Paul

Thanks Stu, its whatever somebody does when they arrive or leave. A better example this time of year is brushing snow off of a car. They may get behind the car, the "On" isnt sent, and then the lights go off. Then they come around the car and the lights go back on. My requirement is to keep the driveway and deck lit up until: somebody pulls in the driveway gets out of their car and comes in the house, or... until they leave the house, get into their car and drive away.. ... and not going on / off / on / off several times for either of those activities because of warming up, snow removal, loading the car, etc,.. I've used and prefer "signal on every sense", "Send On Only". and have a program to turn it off after X minutes. Paul

I send an on each time for my back deck and driveway. That way it stays on for my for my specified time of 4.5 minutes, if someone doesn't get out of their car for few minutes, or... more likely if they get in to warm their car up for a few before backing out in winter. That makes it better for visitors than it flashing on and off a few times. I change batteries twice a year which I'm good with. Paul