paulbates

+1. I went through a period long ago of using an x10 universal module and key chain remote for the garage door, then had the thoughts about security and took it back out. And since I can sense when the door goes up and that its night out, I have that input to turn on premise and inside lighting automatically; I don't need the extra buttons on the remotelinc for lights. Entry methods, as Teken points out, should be left to dedicated security devices like GDO remotes, Elk, etc.

Cory I'm not 100% based on the write up... (Depending) if its two separate 100 foot runs, move the switches to the other, house side of the line. You might have to turn the lights on if there are outlets on the other end used for yard work, etc. Maybe I'm not reading it correctly though, and the two items are on the same 100 foot run Paul

Its a nice feature when you have a mix of devices controlling the same dim-able loads in scenes. I use this on keypads where the A load is relay, but other buttons control lighting on inlinelinc dimmers.

There are boards for that.....

Man, wish I had know about these before. These are on my homedepot list for this weekend!

I had several KPLs from the 2011/2012 timeframe. When they start clicking and flashing, its only been a short time before they go dead. Just lost the last of those last month. The ones form before that time and after that time have been fine.

I've had those symptoms when KPLs are going bad... either randomly or touching a button. I haven't had it happen with a link before...does the link activate the button that powers the KPL's load? Paul

The analogy police have been notified

Ok, what you are describing as your requirment should work and is a core insteon feature: -All lights added to one scene -Both switches added as controllers to the same scene. That both makes this new virtual circuit available from the ISY controlling the scene, and each switching turning on and off. If its not interference, I'm not certain where to go at this point. Edit1: and Michael beat me to the punch Edit2: went back to the beginning, and adding both as controllers was suggested in post #2 and indicated that it didn't work in post #3. Not sure where to go at this point if noise has been eliminated

Just to clarify what you are showing; only one of the switches needs to be wired to the load. The scene should then make the switches into a virtual circuit. While I haven't done this with 2 toggle lincs, I do have a togglelinc for a porch light that is also in a scene with a swtichlinc for floodlights, a motion sensor and 3 keypad keys. They all work together to control each other and the lights. Insteon is designed to do exactly what you are describing.

Don't start over. 1- Control the morning linc without the scene? Does that work? If no, you will probably have to remove it and re-add it 2- Rebuild the scene. Pull things out and add them back. Its a minor, vs major pain.

Not sure what makes up the sauna, but everything else is certainly suspect... Especially if on the same circuit with the switches. If you are able, conduct a test. Unplug all of it briefly (at least those things on the circuit in questions) and retest. Plug things in, adding one at a time, and retest until it breaks. That should lead to suspects. It might be that some problems occur when a few things are running at the same time. Paul

Did you try restoring any of the devices? Or, I would try rebuilding the scene... remove the devices and then add them back in. that will reprogram everything. It should not take long to see if that helps.

I've found setting jumper one cuts the sensitivity to a level that works well, but is not trigger happy. I'm sure each setup is unique and has unique problems.

Depending how far the 2992-222 is from the panel on the circuit, it will be most effective on that circuit vs the whole power leg. After the signal is bridged to the 2992-222, it will have to travel back down the circuit to the panel and then on to other circuits on that leg. It loses power as distance increases. One advantage of the phase coupler (or putting the 2992-222s very near the panel) is that the signal will distributed out all circuits relatively evenly on that power leg. Having the plm near the panel is important too.. same rules. the further it is from the panel, the signal weakens for other circuits. In the cases of a lot of noise/insteon device problems on a single circuit, the 2992-222 helps address that problem spot. As an example, I have the phase coupler in my panel and my plm on an outlet that is fed by one of the breakers for the phase coupler. However, an iolinc in my detached garage has occasionally had problems, so I have an older insteon access point (an earlier version of the 2992-222) out there. It gets the signal to the end of the circuit there. You could possible use both. After you get the phase coupler, I would install it and temporarily remove all 2992-222s. Rerun your program that started this thread. Then if there are problem spots after a few days, start placing the 2992-222 to address those particular problems

Forgot about that Stu... Its this one. We need a "best of" sub forum....

Larry, Maybe twice a year we'll have cold spell with a warm rain on top of it. In those cases, I'll go through periods of a few hours where it can go off based off the rain dripping off the garage roof (I think, don't have a better explanation). You also have to watch where the dryer vent exhausts or other fans (our Jenn-air stove exhausts a foot above ground) Snow / wind have never been a factor. My main MS is out in the open, covering from near the street up 30 feet of driveway, and across the back yard. I had to set jumper 1 for cutting the sensitivity of it 1/3, that's something to think about. Without the jumper It was picking up things in my neighbors yard and every car that went by on the street. Now it catches things moving around in the yard, and any car pulling past the sidewalk driving in. Paul

Jeff, I couldn't hurt. I've been looking for field reports on how those perform. Probably the best way would be a 9v powersupply. I don't have a good way to install one or cover the wires up, otherwise that's how I ideally would do it. Paul

Hi Jeff I've had one outside observing my driveway in SW Michigan for a few years. I probably should have it covered on top, but i don't. The major problem of the colder snaps is that affects battery performance. I change the battery routinely around now before winter, and also 6 months later in the spring, whether the battery indicator goes on, or not. That way there is a solid 9 volts going into winter.I don't want to chance having to deal with it in the dead of winter. Based on how this has worked I put another one under my deck as a "critter detector". This will be its first winter. Paul

I can think of two scenarios. 1) I have a couple of switches at the edges of my network that have to be factory reset and 'restore device' run every other year or so. I notice the flaky behavior like you are seeing, sometimes it goes on sometimes not. More likely likely it goes on but won't go back off. Devices in the same gang box, or only a foot or two away work perfectly. This kind of thing tends to happen after a long brown out period. 3) Since many devices seem to be involved, its possible your PLM is going bad. How old is it? Paul

My experience is more like Stus. I converted to the phase coupler while on homeseer. The insteon plugin i used on Homeseer showed statistics for message completion, and 1, 2 and 3 hop. performance between the PLM and devices. After simply installing the phase coupler and retesting, all of my devices that had problems dropped a hop and or went up into the mid 90% for completion. At the same time, satwar, do which ever resonates with you, range extenders or the signal linc bridge. As noted above, it might take some relocation of the the range extenders to find the right spot but either solution will improve your insteon network.

Its never fun, but you just have to do it. Below are the directions from the wiki, I searched for "replace PLM". You have to go through it in waves. After the replace (restore modem) completed, I had devices with icons that showed then needed to be updated. You will need to work with those devices one at a time in the admin console to resolve. Hopefully not to many. I turned off (made grey) the little battery icon on the admin console during the restore modem, and did battery device as another wave of updates. You have to go around one at a time and put them in programming mode (long set button press usually)... its a pain, but you'll have to be prepared... ladders out, etc, to deal with it. I've found iolincs to be fussy sometimes and have had to restore them individually. In one case I had to delete it and re-add it. Sometimes keypads too. Here are the directions: Restore Modem (PLM) Replace Modem (PLM)This operation is most useful when you need to replace a defective PLM and the ISY is rebooted with a new PLM. When the communication links were established via the Link Management Menu, the PLM and INSTEON devices adds each device addresses it is linked to, in its own link table. The ISY also reads and stores the PLM’s address at boot up. The ISY stores all the configurations settings of the lighting network. If you are replacing a PLM the ISY will have the old PLM address link stored in it. Warning: Never replace your PLM while the ISY is running because it will assume it is still connected with the old PLM. The ISY will appear to work, but it will be writing the address of the old PLM into the device links, thus you will not see devices updates etc. If this menu option is selected, the ISY goes through all INSTEON devices looking for old and new PLM address links. If an old PLM address link is found, it replaces them with the address of the new PLM and adds the corresponding device link to the new PLM. To replace a PLM: Unplug ISY from the power outlet Unplug the PLM from ISY and power outlet Connect ISY’s port A to the new PLM Plug the new PLM into a power outlet Plug ISY into a power outlet Go to Admin Console and wait for system initialization to completeIf you have PRO Series, click on the Battery icon at the top. This will prevent ISY from trying to update programming on your RF devices which are probably in sleep mode Click on the Restore Modem (PLM) menu optionIn case ISY cannot communicate (or decides not to if an RF device/PRO Series) during the process, you will have a series of nodes with green 1011 icons in the device tree. For each one of those nodes: If an RF device, ensure that the device is in Programming mode Right mouse click | Write pending updates ...

Ok, that plausibly has a lot to do with it, though I've not run into that before. At a minimum, you need a phase coupler on the other leg. Also, I would recommend locating your PLM right at the electrical panel, so its has a more centralized view / transmission location. You might want to consider a signalinc panel bridge for this set up as well. These two steps will make sure that the powerline signal makes to all other circuits more evenly. Paul

Do you mean on the same power leg as opposed to 1 circuit? Most of them being on one leg is unusual, but it could explain what you are seeing. Insteon / dual band and electrical signalling is all concentrated on one leg, leaving the other leg "weaker". If there are phone chargers, low voltage lighting and/or motors on that other leg, it will definitely make it harder for insteon signals to get through. On possibility is to put a dual band device or a phase coupler on that opposite leg. You may have to move it around to several outlets to find the sweetspot.

The program appears ok. I'm not sure, can you try the scene manually from the ISY to make sure it functions as expected? There could be several things going on. An alternative suggestion to the programs, once you know the scene works: Add both switches as controllers to the scene with the lights. No program would be needed, the scene would do all of the work and the perceived performance will be a little better. Paul