Jeez, I feel lucky. Had an 8-button dimmer crap out on me a week or so ago. Figured I'd limp through until my z-matter board arrives and have to replace it with some kind of z-wave or matter-enabled switch. On a whim, went to the new Insteon store, and OH MY GOD THEY HAVE PRODUCTS IN STOCK!!! Picked up a replacement, and a motion sensor as well. They arrived within days, looking forward to returning the system to full functionality.

Great job guys!

Got this up and running, and it works great. I'm curious about the "unifi_siteid" variable, though. I got the node server running by leaving that variable on "default", and as long as the devices I'm trying to track are on the original network my UDM created, it works fine. But I have several VLANs, and I would like one of those to be where the family phones connect to. I'm not sure what ID value to use to get this node server to look at that. Network name didn't work. VLAN ID didn't seem to work either. Is there an example of how to manipulate that variable? Is that even what that variable is set up to do?

Ideally I would like to specify multiple VLANs for the node server to watch for various devices. Is that possible? 

15 hours ago, oberkc said:

You do the same thing that I do, except here.  Mine revert to "normal" function at dawn.

Did you use a separate program to reset it at dawn? As I recall, I put it on a timer because it was as easy as adding a couple lines to the "then" statement.

Apparently Ring has been letting their Ukrainian AI team access customer videos with little oversight or control. Yikes.

I’ll offer this as an example of an override I use. Might be helpful in your situation.

My porch lights turn on via motion sensor, and after a minute not sensing motion, the ISY turns them off. However, there are times when I want to keep the porch light on (guests coming, etc.). So if someone uses the physical switch to turn on the porch light, I also have the ISY disable the one minute timer program that turns the light off. The motion sensor still sends on commands when it senses motion, but that’s fine, the light is already on.

Then, when the switch is physically turned off, the timer program is reactivated.

I also have a 6 hour timer on the on/disable command to ensure that even if someone *ahem* forgets to turn the porch light back off, it will restore itself to normal function without intervention.

I looked into this for an aquarium light I have that works the same way: line voltage to the LEDs, and a 0-10v control wire regulating the voltage of the lights.

You can DIY a controller using the PWM outputs of an Arduino or Pi type device and a voltage doubling circuit. Add a wi-fi shield, and you can have it interact with the ISY REST interface, and back at the light via network resources.

With the right skill set, it’s not too difficult. Depends how valuable your time is.

I looked into this for an aquarium light I have that works the same way: line voltage to the LEDs, and a 0-10v control wire regulating the voltage of the lights.

You can DIY a controller using the PWM outputs of an Arduino or Pi type device and a voltage doubling circuit. Add a wi-fi shield, and you can have it interact with the ISY REST interface, and back at the light via network resources.

With the right skill set, it’s not too difficult. Depends how valuable your time is.

The auto top off on my fish tank is a scaled down version of this. It uses an optical level sensor to turn on a pump to replace evaporated water with RODI water to maintain water parameters.

The water surface is pretty turbulent too. The trick is that the sensor doesn’t trigger the pump until the sensor is open for two seconds. For a pool, I’m sure you could stretch that to a minute or more. That keeps the pump from coming on every time a wave trough passes by.

Thinking about this a bit more, you may want to consider wiring up a separate speaker just for this. Presumably you’ll be using your receiver to watch the game. Having it automatically switch to a different input while the replays are being shown might not be ideal. It would also cut down on latency, since you won’t have to switch inputs, pause, play sound, etc.

Unless the receiver can automatically overlay an audio track over an already-playing audio stream?

Hi All,
I got this idea from a post on Reddit so I am wondering if the following is possible an if so, with what equipment.
* Basically, when my team scores a touchdown, I would like my LIFX lights to flash Maize and Blue (I have two strips) and then have the fight song play on my speakers (or even echo devices if possible).  I have my speakers connected to a Denon receiver.  I was thinking the following to start
. When touch down, i press a button and it invokes a scene that starts the LIFX lights (using Polyglot) and then do a network resource command to tell my Denon to play an mp3 file
- If i get that working, maybe i get a little more fancy and have some sort of script that watches a twitter feed that when it see's certain words, it will they go through the routine above
Is this possible with just a ISY?  Would I need anything else? Homeseer? Home Assistant?  Thanks!

Don’t know about the Denon. If it stores files locally, and that is exposed to the network commands, then it should be possible.

I did something similar, but I used my computer to handle the music portion. I wrote a script that switched the receiver input to the media player, then streamed a playlist from my computer based on a network resource call.

Not cheap, but good quality and well-supported:

https://www.atlas-scientific.com/product_pages/pressure/a-10_pressure.html

If you’re so inclined, the Davis wind sensor (speed and direction) is pretty easy to connect to an arduino or RPi. Then either have it continuously report, or only report over a threshold.

 

Highly accurate, localized, and instantaneous.

 

Oh yeah, links. I use this:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Davis-Instruments-Anemometer-vantage-Pro2153/dp/B076H3HCYX

 

Pulse counter for the wind speed, analog input for the direction.

 

This one is like half the cost of the Davis one, but it’s got lots of support.

 

https://shop.switchdoc.com/collections/sensors/products/weatherrack-anemometer-wind-rain-for-weatherpiarduino-weatherplus-raspberry-pi-arduino

My ISY is connected to the same UPS that powers my modem, router, IP cameras, NVR, and the Pi I use as a web server.

 

We get a decent amount of power flickers here, and I don't want all this stuff rebooting every time that happens. Had a couple just yesterday with this blasted heat.

I use dew point to run exhaust fans now. It is more predictive of the desired resultant.

 

I discovered by exhausting air with a higher humidity than the outside air, I may still be increasing the humidity, instead of lowering it, once the incoming air is cooled down to the room temperature.

 

Dew Point comparisons eliminate this and it's easy to calculate.

Easy to approximate! I set up the formula for my weather station, and the dew point formula was a bit of a puzzle for a while. Granted, I needed to use RPN, but still!

 

dewPoint=243.12,humidity,.01,6.112,17.62,5,9,/,tempF_BME,32,-,*,*,5,9,/,tempF_BME,32,-,*,243.12,+,/,EXP,*,*,*,LOG,*,440.1,-,19.43,humidity,.01,6.112,17.62,5,9,/,tempF_BME,32,-,*,*,5,9,/,tempF_BME,32,-,*,243.12,+,/,EXP,*,*,*,LOG,-,/,1.8,*,32,+

 

[emoji23]

 

Personally, I just use humidity to shut off my bathroom fans. Lights too. If the humidity is up, someone is in the shower. We don't get excessive outdoor humidity here during the day.

Atlas Scientific has saltwater capable flow sensors, just FYI. Not the cheapest solution, but if the cheap stuff fails ya...

 

https://www.atlas-scientific.com/flow-meters.html

Did the IP address change when the power came back on? IOW, are you using DHCP for it?

Guaranteed to drive Apple haterz nutz! [emoji23]

I've got a Pi that sends the 'minutes this year' to the ISY every minute. When the power goes out, I have a program that sends me the amount of time the power was out, and what time it booted up.

 

Problem is, I also have the ISY plugged into a UPS. So the power only "goes out" an hour or so after the power actually goes out. Which is still plenty useful, since it warns me I need to restart my server and check some other stuff.

 

I've been building a weather station that has a battery back up, though. My plan is to read the voltage from the power controller. If it's 5v, the power is on. If it's 4.3v or less, the battery is powering the weather station. Wouldn't be too hard to update an ISY variable letting me know.

Depending on how mission-critical this pump schedule is, a heartbeat program with a notification may be a good addition.

As I go back and re-look at all this hue stuff I am reminded, too, that it would be valuable to assign one's hue hub with a static address. (I assume most would do this through the router.) The static address would help ensure things keep working after power failures or other reboots.

Everything with an API, or that I plan to send or receive data to/from, or that I plan to monitor gets a static IP here.

First time I needed to make a cable, I bought a crappy combo termination kit with a very cheap crimp tool. Tons of failed cables, and much frustration. I have since bought a much nicer crimp tool, and have had zero failures since.

 

My current installation has a fairly short custom CAT 6 cable of about 36", but I have previously had it as far as 24' (of cable) away from my ISY with no ill effects.

lol - there's no arguing with someone who wants to build something. I built an elaborate coffee bean loader for my coffee roaster a couple of years ago using sheet stainless and RC servos along with a custom built enclosure for an interface to it using two custom made thermocouples, an arduino, a graphing LCD, and a dozen or so buttons and switches. I used it for a month before I forgot it outside and it filled with rain lol.

Are we arguing? I didn't think so. There are a lot of ways to skin the proverbial cat, the "best" way is highly subjective. I simply stated one way that I personally have used for light detection. YMMV.

I've built quite a few things with arduinos and pis - love those little things. I host my web page on a pi and have another one that polls my weather. Quite a few people are using them as HTPC's nowadays running plex, too. I can't help but think that in this case either of those would actually be more expensive than a premade product.

 

Heck, a pi3 is somewhere around $40. Add a power supply and any light sensors you might want, tack on some shipping and you'll probably want an enclosure and you're easily upwards of $60. A CAO tag can be had for $25 and you don't have to code it or build it.

True enough, but a tag manager is $40, so that tag actually costs $65. Toss in the fact that I had a Pi, power supply, case and SD card laying around, and it's not a bad deal.

 

Also, you could get a Pi Zero W for $10. Plenty of horsepower for a sensor reading.

 

Plus there's the whole 'I'm a DIY type'. Telling me I don't have to code it or build it isn't a selling point. [emoji12]

I'm a diy type, so I use a Pi and a $7 Lux sensor from Adafruit to measure light levels. I also use ~$1 resistive sensors for a verification of light on/off in a few places.

Many of us have isy slave RPis and or wc8 boards feeding data into our isy. It would be a simple job to detect the local LAN system and router is functioning inside isy.

 

Sent from a tiny keyboard. Response may be brief.

Heck, with the new $10 wifi Pi Zero, it's a no-brainer.