BobMic

Starting to make more sense to me now, thanks! I wasn't thinking about thread as being a radio path separate from WiFi. I haven"t used any Zigbee devices so the light (in my head) just didn't go on. I just did some reading on Zigbee transport protocol and network stack. For sure the devices that I'm using (TP15) is a WiFi 802.11 device with Bluetooth commissioning. No need for thread which is what I guessed but didn't completely understand why...until now.

When you say "gets routed over the router" are you talking about my network router or the border router? I looked at my router and all three devices are on the IPv4 list, none on the v6 list. I don't have any devices that require thread.

I have been working with Javier on this. He informed me that after making the connection via Alexa (and probably others), generating a setup code and connecting to eisy, the device can be deleted from Alexa. UDM and eisy will still have full control and rights to the device. Of course if the device requires a "thread" connection you will still need it configured in your Alexa or other Thread Border Router as eisy does not have that capability yet. The TP15 does not require a thread connection so works fine.

Thanks for pointing that out and directing me to some good information. I'm new to Alexa, had a dot sitting around for a couple of years still in the box. A web search led me to the fact that several echo devices will work as a threads border router. I tried the dot g2 which of course didn't work but got me interested in Alexa. I bought an "Echo g4" which I wrongly assumed was the current "Dot". I have edited my original post to correct that.

Thanks Guy. I got that tip from a thread that I found but there was no detail so wanted to make the step-by-step to save new comers the 3-4 hours that it took me to get the sequence and details correct. I'm new to Matter and also Alexa. I have been using isy and Insteon for many years but it was a bit fiddly.

I have been unable to add the TP15 directly to Eisy using Matter. When I try I get UD mobile to scan the QR code but it never completes the configuration. This it with the current beta Matter, UDMobile 1.5.2. I have also tried using the Matter code with the same results. The work-around that I have found is to use an Echo (gen 4 to serve as a “thread border router”. There are several Alexa devices that will do this. Here is a detailed procedure, sorry to the experts for the step-by-step but I want to make it clear for anyone. First do NOT configure the TP15 through the Tapo app. It will connect fine to the Echo but you can’t get a forwarding code from Alexa. If you have it installed in Tapo, just delete it and do a reset. Plug the TP15 into an outlet. Open the Alexa app – go to Devices, +, Add Device, other, Matter and follow the instructions (note, don’t use the default Alexa install for the TP15. I expect it installs with another protocol instead of Matter). Once the device is found you can name it for use with your echo (name doesn’t carry over to UD). Now in the Alexa app select the TP15 device, settings (gear icon), Other Assistants and Apps, add another (+), copy the set-up code to the clipboard or write it down. Open UD Mobile, settings (gear icon bottom right), Matter, add (+), paste or enter the code (hyphens not required), submit. It took a while so be patient. Accept the synchronize pop-up. The new device will appear as ZM XXX.1 On-Off Switch. Tap on it to change the name and save (it won’t show the new name yet). Open Admin Console – Matter tab, synchronize, new & deleted, yes. It will appear with the new name. You can now move it into a folder, add it to scenes & programs as it is now a fully integrated node. Go back to UD Mobile and synchronize. The name will update. This may work with other TP-Link devices but the TP15 is the only one that I have to test with. I hope this helps someone get through this much easier than it was for me. I’m sure UD will fix the direct connect before Matter goes to full release.

Several years (Pre UDM) I did a l-o-n-g write up on KPL controlling a fanlink using Mobilinc. I don't recommend reading it unless you are very new to setting up KPL/fanlink but am including it in case someone needs step by step. Just disregard all of the Mobilinc stuff and control the "scenes" in UDM as recommended by Javi above.

Is there a way to reorder entries in the main UDM like there is in Favorites? They seem to be alphabetically listed. Works great to long press and move in favorites!

Thank you, works perfectly! I guess the learning curve is much more shallow when you ask the architect. My setup is much simpler with just scenes and I only control it with the KPL's and UDM so never gets out of sync. Thanks for the quick response, Bob

Here are a couple of screenshots.

I have been using UD Mobile for a couple of years in it's pretty much raw form. Over the lest few days I have gone wild customizing both of my house's favorites entry's. I am amazed at what I have missed and first would I would like to thank you for a very versatile application! I am having a little trouble with the steep learning curve when it comes to the "Command Type" and it seems like that may be the solution to the title of this post. Hopefully it's easier than that and I just didn't find it yet. I have several KPL devices at my lake house controlling fans. I am using scenes for each of the buttons to make the buttons exclusive and control the fanlink. Everything works great with the KPL's and the buttons in UDM with the exception of a double press turns that button off. I am trying to emulate the KPL which is set to Non-toggle (on) so each press is a momentary push button calling the associated scene and multiple presses of the same button don't affect the state. How can I accomplish the same functionality in UDM? The easy answer would be to add a "Type" for a momentary button with the choice of on or off on each press rather than toggle. Thanks, Bob

Update on this. I was again fighting the status of the button LED's not matching what the management console was showing when the scenes were triggered in Mobilinc. It turns out that the older 2486 KPL's don't work correctly. When I select a fan speed in Mobilinc all four button LED's light. The correct speed is set and the management console shows the correct LED lit and the other three off but that is not the case on the KPL, all four are lit. It works perfectly on the 2334 KPL's.

Interesting, that's not the case for irrigation controller. All of the header pins for the daughter board, except for v+ (1) and GND (8), go to IO pins in the PIC microcontroller. The program in the PIC 16F648A must be the same for USB and Serial, it's not on the irrigation base boards. For one thing pin 6 on the header has a 1OOhz 1ms clock pulse. Header pinout 1 - +21v 2 - PIC pin 9 RB2/TX/CK 3 - PIC pin 12 RB5 4 - PIC pin 14 RB7 5 - PIC pin 8 RB1/RX/DT 6 - PIC pin 11 RB4 7 - PIC pin 13 RB6 8 - GND

I tried to use a 2413U base board to replace the base board in a EzFlora and it didn't work. There is a PIC Microcontroller on the base board and for sure it has a different program loaded on the EzFlora. It seems like the daughter boards are just IO interfaces and the programming is in the PIC on the main board.

I just tested my config and double tap of any button does put the fan controller in high and the buttons are out of sync. I think you are right in that the only way to get around that is to use a program that sets the fan and LEDs status for an "on" or "fast-on" to the same appropriate level. That may be what led me to hide all but the "on" button in Mobilinc. Thanks for pointing that out!