stusviews

Thermostat terminology is different. Common is actually considered the source. From there to the devices (i.e,., furnace, compressor, fan), then to thermostat and finally return (red) back to the source.

Put the button on the bottom.

We prefer the control a Keypad provides. Each room's device depends on the switch box (except the BR we added) and what is automated. Every paddle and button is labelled, color diffusers help, also. A example involving two adjacent rooms: The kitchen has two entries, one end has a paddle in the kitchen, the other end has an 8-button KeypadLinc which is in the adjacent room. That room is where the computers are because it's a corner with two views. That particular area opens into the living room with no wall between. From that Keypad, we have control of: A: LR light B: this area light C: LR torchiere 1 D: Kitchen light E: LR torchiere 2 F: Dining room light (on other side of kitchen) G: LR window AC (we don't always need the front zone on) H: this area ceiling fan (blue diffuser) IMO, there is no, "that's better." My preference for Insteon was influenced by its flexibility. Others use, not choose, what I've set up. Well, OK--the WAF matters

2-device KPL Method 1: 6-button mode Top On. Bottom Off--load 1 A & B non-toggle ON, C & D non-toggle OFF--load 2 Method 2: 8-button mode A & B non-toggle ON, C & D non-toggle OFF--load 1 E & F non-toggle ON, G & H non-toggle OFF--load 2 load 2 is a secondary device

A 4-button KPL can control 3 or 4 devices, see #4

In most cases, switching which of the two devices controls the load in a 3-way configutation is easily done. There are actually two downsides to controlling the load from the kitchen device, requiring that the primary button be used and that the relay clicks. The dimmer is silent.

Placing a filter between the powerline and an Insteon device will prevent that device from both receiving and sending powerline signals.

Humidity should be kept between 25% and 60% for both health and comfort. BTW, I, too, would like to see a fix for the Insteon thermostat.

If the kitchen device is not wired to the load, then you can use a dimmer. (see #4)

Secondary Insteon devices (controller not connected to the load, it can be a device or a button) behave as the primary device (connected to the load). A secondary dimmer is a dimmer if the load device is a dimmer and is an On/Off only if the primary device is a relay. Likewise, an On/Off secondary device is an On/Off button if the primary device is a relay and it's a dimmer if the device connected to the load is a dimmer.

3-device KPL (6-button mode, 6-button frame) Use four large buttons Include buttons A & B in all scenes as controllers, include buttons C & D in all scenes as controllers 4-device KPL (6-button mode, 8-button frame) Use four large buttons Include buttons A & B in all scenes as controllers, include buttons C & D in all scenes as controllers, include buttons E & F in all scenes as controllers, include buttons G & H in all scenes as controllers 5-device KPL (6-button mode, 6-button frame) Nothing needs to be changed 6-device KPL (8-button mode, 6-button frame) Use two large and four small buttons Include buttons A & B in all scenes as controllers, include buttons G & H in all scenes as controllers 7-device KPL (8-button mode, 8-button frame) Use one large and six small buttons Include buttons A & B in all scenes as controllers 8-device KPL (8-button mode, 8-button frame) Nothing needs to be changed

If you have the older 3-wire magnetic contact switch, then you can swap from NC to NO and not need to use reverse trigger. Unless you have something better to do

It really doesn't matter to the operation of the I/O Linc whether you use NO or NC. It may matter to the responder (e.g.,, lit, unlit). Even the state of the responder can be changed by using the reverse trigger option. But, I've heard that the Query All can change that, so it may not be a good idea. Back to the I/O Linc. All my I/O Lincs correctly show the state of both the sensor and relay. For the garage doors, the relay is closed (On) only during the brief time that the relay is activated. Otherwise, the ISY correctly displays the relay as open (Off). And the sensor is lit (On) whenever the garage door is not closed. In particular, the garage door must be fully closed for the sensor to show Off.

You are correct. I was erroneously looking at status, not control. A solution is to create a program for each action. If Control 'neighboring swithch' is switched On And Control 'wall dimmer' is switched Dim Then Set Scene 'LampLinc' Dim Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

There seems to be no way a program can use brighten or dim as a trigger, only %'s. But, only dim and bright can be an action, not %. You could create 31 programs for each level change (dim and bright change the level by about 3%). Or you could install a KPL

What do you want to occur?

OK, a wall switch dimmer and lamp module. What is the "neighboring light switch?"

A SynchroLinc for each, a message sent, and even a device or KPL button turning on. No need to rely on relays, no wires to run.

Observe the white LED on the side of the I/O Linc. It should light up full momentarily when a signal is sent to the I/O Linc and then return to dim. The relay should also click.

That has everything to do with it. Unplugged and disabled are not equivalent.

The wall switch is the "other" switch. Also, the program won't run if the wall switch is not at 100% which it won't be if the device is dimmed.

It seems that you have a backup for your backup. As long as you have a reliable backup pump, you should be fine with your original intent to rotate scheduling of the two line voltage pumps using Insteon devices and the ISY

As soon as the other switch controls the light to which it is connected, then it's no longer "off." The simplest solution is a KPL. The On/Off pair can control the connected light, one button for the LampLinc and another to control both concurrently. And two buttons for other uses, perhaps to set both to a pre-set On-level.

Try Then Set Mode Off Wait x seconds (or minutes) Set Mode Auto Set Heatpoint 72 Set Coolpoiint 76

Teken makes a good point. You cannot compare OEM buttons to kit buttons to custom etched buttons. All three are different which becomes most noticeable when they're on the same KeypadLinc. OTOH, the custom etched buttons have been consistent over the years I've ordered them, even if I switch them, which I have done.