dsstrainer

Just wanted to let you know that this works https://www.universal-devices.com/ but this doesn't: https://universal-devices.com/ It's a pretty basic htaccess redirect to handle this. I remember when sony.com had this trouble a few years ago as well.

So I followed this guide: https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY994i:INSTEON_Device:FanLinc-KPL_FanLinc_KeypadLinc_Configuration One change I would add is to set the "Light" to be toggle mode so that the "off" button lights up when off (if in non-toggle on then all buttons are off when not on) But everything else seemed to work great. Both controls from the KPL directly and from the ISY admin area are functioning as expected. However, one thing that does happen is when I control a fan scene from the admin like "KPLFan-Med" On.. it turns ALL 4 kpl button lights on. It does put the fanlinc into Medium speed, but I have to go back and manually turn off the button lights but clicking the physical "Med" button which does turn everything off except the "Med" button. *Note: I use "A" for off and "D" for high which is not the standard way many of you have.. but shouldn't be relevant for this issue. Did I miss anything?

Now that you say it... I realize I knew that.. but in my thinking about it I forgot.. so you are right.. there is no real reason for me to do it manually. Thanks for the kick

I guess the main reason for direct linking is to remove dependency on a hub if the hub goes down. A localized switch-to-light relationship is more ideal, especially since the hub is on the opposite side of the house. But I don't disagree that going against the grain is going to potentially cause future issues. I'll do some more playing around with it. Also, you know you love my anthropomorphic analogies

Thanks for the tips. Luckily the solution was fairly simple It does seem like the "scene" aspect is what was confusing my expectation of the logic. As you noted Larry, the codes to KPL doesn't control the fanlinc.. it just controls the KPL lights... but it's the "scene" that controls the fanlinc which is triggered by the controller/responder relationship of the 2. So I'm tapping on his shoulder, and he says he's going to run and tell somebody.. but doesn't actually do it because he doesn't actually have somebody to tell. So I left the direct links alone but simply setup a separate scene for both devices in ISY. Now it works fine from the switch to the fanlinc with its direct linking... and also has a separate scene for them in my ISY. Since it's just a state machine in the end, the admin ui reflects the current state of the scene regardless of manual switching or programmatic. Thanks again!

That's a bit of a canned answer.. Logically I would think it should work If I tap you on the shoulder and you run and tell somebody "something".. even if I don't know what you are saying to that person, it doesn't change the fact that when I tap your shoulder, you run and do "something". So logically I shouldn't need to know the other device.. I would think I only need to know the KPL so when I tell the KPL to turn on.. it turns on "Something" which means it simply closes its relays. I'm well versed in ISY but sometimes I try to think outside the box.

I just replaced my switch for light and fan with a KPL and a Fanlinc. Everything worked great. I manually linked the two devices to each other directly without the ISY involved. But then I linked just the KPL to the ISY so I could still use Alexa to turn things on/off. I see the KPL in the admin UI and I can see the current status updating when I manually turn the buttons on or off. But when I send an off command from the admin panel for either the light or the different fan speeds, the status updates to "off".. but the actual light it still on. It doesn't actually do what it says it is doing. Any idea why this might be?

Never understood the hate against resurrecting old posts. Why would I want to have to search in multiple different threads for the same topic? This topic is perfectly relevant and might have new progress. You don't put half your conversation in one voicemail then continue it in another.. just keep it going and double tallmans to anyone that complains. Now, on that note.. I too just installed a fanlinc and noted the same behavior... low is a little too low and medium is low.

And what's the bottle neck there as to why we don't have status ability on devices? Alexa or udi?

I'm sure it has been asked before and I searched for this but didn't see any matches in the first few pages of results. Is there a way to get Alexa to get the status of devices like switchlincs, sensors, or at the very least state variables by asking? I tried created a state variable (pseudo virtual device) and asking what the status of it was, but Alexa says its not supported. Is this something that will ever be supported?

NVM I found it in the wiki https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY_Portal_IFTTT_Integration

I just need to make a call to the ifttt webhooks trigger url https://maker.ifttt.com/trigger/<event>/with/key/xxxxxxxx I dont need to parse the response.

Is there a way to make a webcall from the ISY? I have the portal and I know it can receive inbound IFTTT calls and rest calls. But how about if I want to send a webcall when a program executes? I know the old Network plugin would do this, but I thought it was being replaced by the portal which would allow all the same functionality + more.

I feel it's sometimes more the bulb/dimmer fault than it being an insteon problem. I have some LED bulbs from Homedepot in my basement that flicker with a normal wall (non-smart) dimmer, even when set to the highest position. I recently moved some of those bulbs into 2 lamps upstairs that are on insteon dimmers, but still set to 100%. I see the same flicker. So It's the bulb.. not the insteon.

Honestly though probably good for anyone.. I have had a similar setup for the past 2 years without siren where I autoclose the garage every 20 mins ... and I've had a close call where I was actively backing out of my garage right as it triggered the auto-close. It is a quiet opener so I didn't hear it as I started to back out of the garage and I couldn't yet see the door coming down in my rear view. The door luckily pushed down on top of my car and went back up... had it been down 2 more inches though, it would have caught my luggage rack and I would have likely pulled down the door.