Sachelis

The dot (between my UUID and Alias at https://my.isy.io/) was gray. Restarting the device (an ISY994i) resolved it. Thanks, Geddy!!

I can now log into https://my.isy.io, but when I choose "Select Tool > Connectivity > Amazon Echo" I get the error message, "ISY is not online."

I’m am using the older device. I got back on when the server (I assume) came back online (although I did need to reconnect Alexa to my account). It appears to be down again and I can no longer log into my.isy.io from a browser. FWIW, I don’t use Google Home.

It is down again for me. When I attempt to log in the message “HTTP error ()” is displayed. When I issue a command to Alexa, she replies, “Sorry, the hub that device office lights connected to is not responding. Please check its network connection and power supply.” It has been down for at least 12 hours. I can control devices from the Universal Devices Portal (so I know the hub is working).

I, too, can't control my lights using Alexa (but I can using the Universal Devices Administrative Console). When I attempt to log in using the ISY Portal (https://my.isy.io/index.htm) I get an HTTP error 429. Y2025 bug? Coincidental that it happened at midnight ET?

@Geddy Post was perfect. Updated my Alexa subscription and replaced the IoX Launcher shortcut. Thank you!!

I set up my home automation many years ago (10 or more?). I added a bunch of Insteon lights, thermostats, and motion sensors and wrote code to integrate them with my life. The Universal Devices ISY994 has served me well! I've seen, and ignored, emails about new hardware. I didn't want to break what was working perfectly. Yesterday, when I asked Alexa to turn off my office lights, she replied, "Sorry, the hub that device office lights connected to is not responding. Please check its network connection and power supply." I gave her a day to recover. She hasn't. I powered down and restarted my Alexa device and the ISY994. Same results. Noteworthy, the Insteon motion sensors still work. So I attempted to access the UD Console by launching, "Click to launch console.jnlp". A window came up, titled "IoX Finder : Not Found". An error box on top of that reported "Not Found". I could see the "Java(TM) Web Launcher (32 bit)" in the Windows Task Manager. Granted, I'm hopelessly behind the times when it comes to the UD system. It has been at least a year since I even opened the Console. For me, the UD is an appliance rather than a hobby. Can someone point me toward a solution? Thanks!

I've been keeping the ISY up to date, but by accessing the console using that exact link (that's a copy from the only shortcut I have in my otherwise obsolete IE). The new launch method works well. Thanks again.

Thanks, Geddy. That sounds right. Back in the day (which is when I started using the 994), you had to use IE (which is what I've always done), possibly because it could launch Java directly. The new method works fine. I was slightly perturbed by the "It's impossible and wrong" reply I received, but grateful for the instructions in that post and your clarification.

I appreciate your guidance, Michel. However, you tone and certainty ("impossible and wrong") are unappreciated. I have used that link for more than a decade. The link went directly to "Admin Console (LAN") without displaying the ISY Finder. Have a nice day.

That's the link I've always used to access the device (a shortcut I keep in IE). How should I access it?

I haven't accessed my 994i for at least six months... it runs so smoothly. However, today when I attempted to visit https://isy.universal-devices.com/994i/ from Internet Explorer II, I received a "The website declined to show this webpage" (403, Forbidden) error. Ideas? Has something changed in how I should access the device? I think a 403 error means you need to log in to the site, but I'm not being prompted for credentials. Thanks!

I am still in the design stage (I haven't purchased a whole house fan, yet), but my plan is that once I have the fan automated I will install a shuttered and filtered exhaust fan, reversed so it blows air into my house, on the north side of in my (cold) walk-out basement (I live in North America). First things first, however, I need to find a fan that is relatively easy to automate... I'm still hoping for an RF solution.

Considering a difference fan is a great shift to this topic, Jimbo! It does look like the Airscape requires significant code (i.e., nodeserver, etc) which might create more challenges for me and the "next" homeowner (if any). I wonder if anyone is using a quiet, high-quality whole house fan (any brand) that with an RF controller like the Bond Bridge and the Broadlink RM4 Pro. That seems like the cleanest option: the manufacture's wall switch and remote would work and the fan could be controlled by the ISY.

I do not have any controls, yet. I am postponing purchasing the fan until I determine whether I can use it with my 994i.

Background: I have an ISY 994i and use Insteon devices to control my lights and furnaces. I use the Universal Devices Portal to control these devices via Alexa. I want to install a whole house fan (QuietCool ES-5400) and control it via the UD Console and Alexa. Initially I thought I’d simply use a Insteon on/off switch, but then I realized the fan is two-speed and that (according the QuietCool), “multi-speed fans require constant power being supplied to the motorhead.” I saw this 5-year-old post, but that is a far more complicated solution that I can handle (I’m a software engineer but worthless as an electrician). Are there any other options? It would be okay with me if the fan speed was set manually, but I want to be able to turn the fan on/off via console programs. Thanks!

It'd be really strange for me to say "turn on privacy," because the only thing that can look into my window is the sun. But back to the point, how do the two programs activate the binds? As in, do the programs have If and Else logic? Do the have Then conditions? What are the spoken words in Alexa to run the programs (e.g., "privacy", "on privacy", "turn on privacy")? I understand that you prefer "privacy" over "blinds," but I don't understand how the two programs interact with Alexa. Thanks!

I am using the ISY Portal with Alexa and an "I/O Linc Insteon to Somfy RF Drape Control Kit 318276I" to open close my outdoor Somfy blinds (aka drapes). However, when I tell Alexa to "turn on the blinds" the blinds open and when I say "turn off the blinds" they close. I started a thread about open/close versus on/off back in April and I'm okay using on/off, but I'd like "turn on the blinds" to have them cover the windows and "turn off" to uncover the windows. I tried switching the N/C and N/O wires on the I/O Linc, but when they are switched (i.e., black wire to N/O and white wire to N/C), the blinds didn't open or close. I also tried selecting the blinds in the Admin Console, clicking the Options button, and selecting the Trigger Reverse checkbox, but that didn't change the behavior. Any suggestions on how to reverse the commands? Thanks!

Yeah, I'd considered using IFTTT, but as with Stu, I think on/off is more intuitive than "trigger". And while "trigger" is easy enough, I don't think my family members will remember it. I'll stick with on/off until Alexa gets a little smarter.

I'm using the ISY Portal with Alexa and an Insteon I/O Linc to open/close my outdoor shades (aka blinds or drapes). I can say, "Alexa, turn on (or off) the shades". Is there a way to issue these commands by saying, "Alexa, open (or close) the shades"? Thanks!

The line and neutral were from the same circuit. Clearly. Thanks for the advice.

Yeah, that was right, oberkc. As in, A and C were the same cable, and contained the travelers plus a hot wire going to switch #2. I only displayed wires that were connected to the two switches in my illustration, which made it more difficult to decode. The "fixture" is eight ceiling lights, so not so easy to inspect. In any case, I connected switch #2 to a neutral and hot (the hot was already there; the neutral I got from a nearby switch), and I stubbed off the red wire from the new switch #2. I connected the red (load) wire on switch #1 to the black wire in cable B and got a hot (black) and neutral (white) from the box near switch #1. It works! Whew. Merry Christmas Eve!

I'm pretty sure cable A and C are the same cable, and that the "elsewhere" wire is the hot wire going to switch 2. That'd mean cable B is going to the load. That'd mean the white and red wires are the travellers.

The black wire going "elsewhere" is connected to other stuff in a four-gang box, but not to the switch #1. The single black wire going into cable B also has a white neutral wire coming from the box (but not from switch #1). Unfortunately, I didn't look at the wiring before disassembly... (whereas last time I was wiser and took photos...).

I posted a question about replacing three-way switches with Insteon switches last month and Stu bailed me out. Thanks! Today I went to replace two more three-ways and found the existing wiring is different. Whereas the last time there were five "pairs" of wires amongst the two switches and the wires were different gauges, this time there are only three "pair" and they're all the same thickness (see illustration). FWIW, if I connect a volt meter between the ground and each of the wires, the black wire on switch #2 is hot, the black wire on switch #1 is cold, and the red and white wires on both switches are lukewarm (i.e., they move the needle, but not much). And it probably goes without saying (if you know what you're doing; I don't), but if I wire the red and black wires together at both switches, the lights turn on. (If you reply, thank you very much, please be specific about the wiring of the new switches. I don't know which wires are going to the load, line, etc so I won't understand that terminology. Thank you!)