jnaiser60

Id be curious to know how you control a polisy without an ISY? am I missing something? Reminds me of Homeseer... Hacker crap.

And I have some wax candles for sale.... Ive pent the last week pulling out insteon.. I have blisters on my thumbs from wire nuts. Ive resigned myself to Smart things. I just wish my elk would integrate..... Lots of hardwired PIR.Ill never re-do all the sign of life functions, or irrigation or any of it. Time to simplify. Things are a changing....

Done it. works fine. very easy.

Another way and probably a better way would be using a smartthings hub. It could be an addon module for ISY. It would certainly keep the ISY alive for a while longer...

After my serial PLM died, I started looking for alternatives to insteon. I have three isy 994's in three different buildings, and a ton of insteon switches. Yes I swapped the daughterboard and its working again, and yes, I ordered a few USB PLM's from amazon as backups. I like the Brilliant controller. After all, there is a whole lot to like! Makes insteon look like a dinosaur. But now what to do with the rest of the house? I live in a decent sized house, that is highly automated. I see wifi switches as the future. I did order a HUE hub, (won't be here for a few days) Seems like someone with more skills than I, could write a policy Node. In fact I would pay someone $500.00 dollars to do this. Any Takers? How can I help? Here's the link to the product if you haven't seen one yet: https://www.brilliant.tech/home

I did the daughterboard swap with the USB version. Worked flawlessly. I ordered 6 USB versions off of Amazon. I have three homes and am heavily invested in Insteon. My problems started after a powersurge. Took out 4 or five modules and my serial modem. Not ready to switch protocols yet. curiouse what everyone else is going to move to? Z-Wave Zigby or wifi swtches?

I have two ISY-Elk implementations. One at my office and one at my home. Both, highly automated. Home also includes homeseer as well as a to many toys to mention. I have been doing this stuff since the eighties and have beta tested at some point for most everybody. Yes I have Xbox stuff integrated thru Homeseer. (sucks) and yes I output text to speech thru whole house audio. The whole reason I use Homeseer on a dedicated PC is for Voice I/O. Nothing else.... Recently, I also rented an apartment in town, so I thought it would be a good idea to automate that as well. Having a couple Echos, already, I went ahead and grabbed a Insteon Hub. Holy crapoly, that small installation made me smile. That hubs not very capable of much, but its so simple. And the ability (finely) to say: Alexa: turn the living room lamp on. (once) and it happens...... I struggled (for years) with PZM mics and mixers, and never ever, could I get this level of accuracy. Yes I was a tester for Butler in a box, and also HAL. They were a joke compared to this. Siri is a joke compared to this.... I spent some time on the phone today, with the people at smart home, to see if there was a way to export my devices from ISY, homeseer or Elk. I would do it. Seriously, I can see ten echos in my house. They were clueless as always..... And that little toy, priced at 79 bucks, works amazingly well with the Echo. Just don't want another controller to maintain. Please Michael.... get this thing going! Jerry

If your using text to speech and zwave locks, I did a flag for when the lock becomes unlocked, which I use to disable the perimeter voice announcement for that area inside and out. On my patio, when the door is unlocked and patio sign of life is true, I have the patio speakers unmuted, and it only announces the motion at the front door, driveway and side gate. Sent from my RM-877_nam_att_205 using Tapatalk

I have been doing automation since 1989. Always integrated motion detectors.... I tried using the insteon. Besides battery issues, they also created a lot of traffic. More you add, (if you have multiple family members in different rooms) causes a lot of insteon network traffic, which causes false signals,ghost signals etc. I really wanted them to work. Went so far as to buying a 9v power panel.... Anyway, I ended up taking all of them out. Sent from my RM-877_nam_att_205 using Tapatalk

Outside a bit tricky because of temperature and animals etc... I went with visonic duet, with pir and microwave. These were 53.50 at the same place. Homesecuritystore seemed to have the best prices and selection on motion detectors. Let me pre warn you that their website is extremely hard to navigate. Sent from my RM-877_nam_att_205 using Tapatalk

Inside corners I used ademco is2535 17.50 each, from homesecuritystore.com they work great, especially with two in a room crossing beams, and using variables for sign of life. Sent from my RM-877_nam_att_205 using Tapatalk

Small rooms inside, like bathrooms and closets, and directly over beds, I used visionic disk 360. They are very small. Paid 30.00 each at homesecuritystore.com Sent from my RM-877_nam_att_205 using Tapatalk

You goal should be to rid yourself of the insteon motion detector.... It's a bit of work, but if there's a will, There is a way..... Sooner or later you will get tired off changing batteries. I ended up with two sub panels to accomplish two motion detectors per room, 8 around the outside of the house and one in the garage. Outside, all microwave/pir. Why two per room inside? Cats and coverage.... I think I have 60 or 70 sign of life macros... End result is 99% acuaracy. In the bedrooms, I used disks over the beds and a good pir w/downward look nearest the entry door, in the corners. If the kids aren't up for school, the squeeze Bo's and there room start talking, ceiling fan off, lights on.... Music gets louder as time goes by... All rooms also have a blue button on the control links by the doors, to turn the rm automation off/on. These all reset to off every night around 3am. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

And so why should we take this one? Looks to me as if its all about selling hardware to long time supporters..... Merry Christmas to you as well.

Just saying... I have several, and there is no control in isy's gui to change it....

On the Dual Band outlet link, the led is not dimmable from ISY.

I have been using LED for about a year now. I probably have about 40 or so thru my house. I have GU 10, MR 16, medium edison par 36 and lamp bulbs. My house is completely automated. Here is what I noticed: Single bulb LED have a wider beam spread, and flicker less when dimmed. I have tried different brands and this seems to be the commonality. When they are left at less than 20% the flicker is caused by insteon traffic. This is a real annoyance....Especially if you have 12 motion detectors as I do. Some of the first gen bulbs also hummed, but the newer ones do not. Also, the can kit, that comes as a complete unit, from Home depot, reacts and looks as if it were incandescent. No flicker, warms on dim, no hum. They were about 75.00 For lamps, I like the sylvana bulbs for lamps. They are a unique design, with alternating yellow and silver on the bulb surface. Looks and works well. Puts out about the same as a 70 watt bulb. Biggest problem for the indoor floods is the been spread. most are at 45 degrees. I like a little wider then that. Found them at Lowes. Most of the bulbs I bought off e-bay would not dim, regardless of what the seller said. For Floods, I like the ecosmart bulbs. For GU10 and MR16, I like the phillips brand. Good Luck! Remember fewer bulbs in the bulb is better. seems the newer technology bulbs are moving towards less bulbs inside their units. Exampl are the phillips GU10. Same stock number, but the older ones have three bulbs, don't dim well, have a narrow spot, and a very white light. The newer ones are a single bulb, wider spot, warmer light and dims fine.......