brockp

Ok I found about profiles and it looks like Alexa is kinda dumb about shared devices like echo's. If I say switch profiles it switches to me and now works and it stops prompting for that 'other household' stuff. Is the right way to do this to remove all the skills form my alxis account and re-do them all against my wife?

My wife setup our alexa in our kitchen, I am setup as a family member and have my own account. I setup the alexa skill and I am able to create devices and they show up in my alexa app. Now on the echo show that's my wife's most of them work, but some like 'kitchen lights' Scene the Show says 'Kitchen doesn't support that' When I do it from the Alexa app on my phone it works just fine. Why would this be? Also often when I test on the show it says "it looks like you are trying to control this from another household account do you want me to ...(I forget and cannot trigger now)" Any idea what that is?

Thanks for confirming, I'll wait for next release

Yes I am, it is considered preview last I knew, it's a great thing for temperature sensors.

Yes the time shown in the admin UI is correct. I have two sensors Aeotec MultiSensor 7 Aeotec MultiSensor 6 Both have the same behavior.

I have manual time zone set in IOX on the eisy, I have some zwave multi sensors and have the chart feature enabled for temperature. When it's updated it's awyas way behind, like current data point is 7:42am, when it's 4:42PM. So 8 hour gap, The chart will let me scroll forward to around the current time but it's just a flat value with no data points. It doesn't matter if i hit query or not, it might add a data point but it's still 8 hours off. What could cause this?

I am trying to use the HueEmulator so I can control a scene from my remote in our theater. I have the trial plugin installed on PG3 on EISY after updating the ports so the hue is running on 8081 I can see the node Conected ISY connected, and I can flip listen on and off. When I go to the Harmony app to add the Hue Hub it says nothing was found, and there are no errors in the debug log in PG once the ports were fixed. I did have some major issues with the hub because it can't be found if a devices in on 5Ghz wifi, but the EISY is hard wired so I didn't expect this behavior. It looks like harmny does not give you a way to manually add the hub, Thoughts? A search of the forums didn't show this exact issue,

Ok thanks! I read that part but I guess I didn't grok. Google turned up mostly old posts. I guess where this becomes an issue is how can I manage my wife's android (I'm on IOS) to create these for both our profiles. Or do I have to create these manually on both?

So the garage door kit has two devices. The sensor to show if it’s open or closed. And a relay that you cycle to actually open/close the door. I am not finding a way to show the door status and not have to jump to another node. i have not yet looked at setting up Alexa but assume this being two devices will cause issues there also. I post in ID mobile because this confused my wife a lot and just want a simple experience.

Yes it is currently 5.8.4

I just finished migrating my polisy to esiy and followed the migration instructions. When I got to the portal migration everyting work around IFTT hooks but not anyting that uses the portal API directly eg the https://my.isy.io/isy/<bighuge UUID lookingthing>/rest didn't get migrated. So the few tools I had built that used this (I use the portal API because on my work computer when i'm on the VPN I cannot connect to the local eisy) I had to update the URL, but everything else was migrated so nicely thought I would share the heads up. To be clear this is the URL form the portal Information -> ISY Information

I just migrated from my polisy to esiy and tried to setup the wifi after the migration. I followed the instructions unhooked the wired network, went into the app, scanned, put in the wifi creds (verified with another device without issue) but but it fails with: error - .nic_status missing params Not end of the world I have wrired there from my 994/polisy there but sometimes I have had to move my controllers because of zwave issues and wireless gets me a port back and makes that easier.

Testing results, The LED lights don't have a plug on the end to dazy chain, so I took a small 5w Apple wallwart, and the wart from the eisy (I'm upgrading today from polisy) and used a splitter so the wart was in parallel with the LED lights the flashing remained. It ook a heavy resistive load, in this case a heating pad and in parallel with the LED's the flashing stopped. So I think that confirms it and that it works in parallel but the wallwart isn't sufficient for these lights. I took the multi-meter to one of the on/off outlets and when off they show 4-5V, not the 118V of the appliancelinc, I just assumed these were the same device just different form factor I guess now. So it looks like if I want to control these specific LED's wtihout having some other large load in parallel I need to not use the appliancelinc but replace the outlet with another on/off outlet which I have just I only need it seasonally. I do have spare outdoor on/off boxes I could try those nothing says you can't use them inside.

No it doesn't click without me pressing the button or controlling it from ISY. It was a comment that the relay is clicking and sounds right. So why do I have no issue with the on/off outlets? Do they not have these features are be more what you expect where the relay cuts all power to the outlet?

Ok I first though my ApplianceLinc was bad, but I found I had another one, both are older revisions of the 2456S3 V4.2 and V1.3 Both behave the same with these lights which is when on it's fine, when off they pulse every few seconds. I have newer on/off insteon outlets and have the same brand of lights in them and it works just fine. So it's confined to these old ApplianceLinc modules. I tried them both with a classic incandescent 60W bulb, and works as expected, just the LED Christmas lights do this. I put an multi-meter in the controlled outlet and I see voltage, when on ~ 121V, when off 118V, but why on the 60W would it actually shut off correctly? I would expect it to be on if it was stuck contacts, both make solid clicks. I thought it might be 'load sense' feature but following the manual https://www.electricbargainstores.com/v/vspfiles/PDF_spec/Insteon/plugin_modules/manual-2456S3.pdf Using the 60W bulb it doesn't work as expected, That is when I 'turn it on' with the tripple tap I never get the load going on and off (no clicks). Thoughts? Are these just to old and probably have some issue? I really don't understand seeing 118V when off but the 60W bulb goes off. That's why I started looking at the load sense, being unsure how that worked.