smithlevenson

Absolutely. I am pretty sure I can manage it. I don’t love the thought of it in my walls, but no way would I use it if I wasn’t 100% confident the Triac was reinstalled to spec. I do appreciate the warning. It’s not a “simple” fix even though it is just one part soldered to a circuit board.

Damn it. Now I am tempted to just fix the two bad Triacs. Not super pumped about having a re-soldered switch in my wall, but maybe I can use it right under a smoke detector ; ).

I thought Insteon was originally open source and they had switch circuit board diagrams published. That also could have been a figment of my imagination. It's been a while.

I tested the Triac and it has a short between 2 pins. I am not an expert so I am only going by what I could look up on YT, but apparently this is bad. I can't really see a safe way of replacing it since it needs a heat sink and a rivet to the case. I should be able to use two dummy switches to control 3 way's, but I will need one 2477 to actually control one of the lights. Probably not worth doing the full upgrade just for one switch.

I will check and see. It looks easy enough to test with a multimeter. Will report back. I hate to repair something like a switch, but i am on ISY 994iz and the only new replacement looks to be the i3 Paddle. Upgrading the controller just to replace two switches feels bad, but my z-wave is already toast so it might make more sense just to get all my door locks back on the controller.

I lost two 2477D's when lighting hit near my home and tripped a breaker. They are both exhibiting the same behavior: The Load wire is always hot now regardless of the status or what is pressed on the paddle. I was wondering if there is any mechanism in the circuitry that might cause this? Does it need to be opened and some sort of breaker reset? I opened one of them and didn't see any visible signs of damage, so it made me wonder if there was any other mechanical or memory reset that may need to be tripped. Thanks in advance!

Hey all, I have a spare 2 wire switch that I want to wire up as "dummy" switch to control a lamplinc or something. Can I just put the 2 wire switch into a circuit with a hot load and neutral, or would turning on the switch cause a short? Didn't want to experiment with a (now expensive) switch. Thanks in advance

I have found the programs to be a lot slower than the Scenes. If it's the only way, then so be it.

Can you elaborate? I'm not following. How do you adjust levels in the Scene without updating the motion sensor controller. Doesn't it recieve the on level of the scene when it's updated?

Hey, If I change a scene by a program to ignore a device, would that have to be updated to a battery powered door sensor before it could run the scene correctly? I am trying to keep outdoor lights out of a scene during the day in response to a garage door open. But at night I would like the out door lights to turn on as well. I currently have a program that checks for post sunset and modifies the scene to Ignore the outdoor lights. It doesn't seem to be working, but I want to understand how the program works with battery powered devices before I start trying to hunt down bugs. Thanks, Smith

This would be the text sliced at .1 mm nozzle. It looks ok, just needs some clean up on the character spacing.

Ok printed a first model. Obviously .4 mm nozzle does not have the resolution. I think I have a few smaller .2 ones laying around, may need .1 mm to get the text right. I also tried to match the text exactly, which may not be the best option. The color isn't terrible. My first layer is way too smushed considering prints are just a few layers. This thing has elephant foot for days. I would like to see if I can get some prettier path lines on the front too. The size overall is decent, but it doesn't clip in as the back is not the right proportions yet. Seems very doable though.

Just creating a log for making 3D printed KeypadLinc Buttons. I will share the Fusion 360 model and Super Slicer settings if I get something I like.

I really want to try 3D printing these buttons. My printer is not dual extrusion which is not hard required, but nearly so. Color matching will be interesting too. I am going to make some today and see how they look.

I agree with this. Replacing something that works for $400 (Eisy + Z-wave) is just out of the range that I want to spend right this second. For me it would be getting some new tech to push me over the edge. I do like the look of the i3 dimmers. Do they take up less room in the electrical boxes?

Interesting. I found a new spot that works with the Z-Wave devices. It has a UPS on the circuit but not right next to the PLM. Might get the noise filter just in case. Amazing that it's my first power line issue after 10 years, but it basically breaks the system.

As an aside, The circuit it was on is the Media Cabinet with Server, Modem, Switch, Router, TV, UPS, Cable Box, etc. I always thought their might be a problem there with noise, but it's been fine for almost 10 years. Does the proximity to the main network switch even matter? I have an electrical circuit with nearby hardwired NAP that I think might be a good spot with no other devices on it. It's in an attic, but the media cabinet is probably hotter anyway.

@kzboray @MrBill The Restore Modem I did earlier this morning is now finally chirping all my devices and the Programs are responding normally after moving over one circuit. I will need to confirm that everything is normal, but early indications are good that it was noise on the line. I honestly didn't even realize there was a microSD card in the ISY because it was behind a rubber cover. I thought it was just an expansion slot.

Going to try this first since it's easiest to rule out (at least at the current location). The only new "appliance" is a sump pump, but it is off (with a manual switch) 99.999% of the time.

Not sure on Z-Wave other than its version 4.55 and the product is listed a 21100. I bought it probably 10 years ago so... The firmware says 5.0.16C while the UI says 5.0.16. Do they need to be identical?

Interesting. I really can't think of any new things added, but I can definitely try a new circuit. I will try new Cat5 on the PLM too just in case (it will need a longer cord anyway). Some of the Z-Wave devices are acting up simultaneously (but once they go offline I feel it's almost best to re-enroll them), so it may point away from powerline, but it's worth a try for sure.

Hey all, I started having massive communication issues with my ISY system. Very few Programs are responding correctly and some seem to be running at randomly. A bunch of devices showing "Cannot Communicate". I tried replacing the PLM with no change. I tried to restore to v5.0.16A from v5.0.16C (the current firmware). I cannot get any improvement. I am starting to wonder if something is wrong with my ISY 994i/IR Pro w Zwave. If anyone has any good ideas to try before I spend ~$400 please let me know.

I did. It's in Geddy's solution as well, but it didn't fix the problem for me. That's why I added the last bit in case someone does a full troubleshoot and still has an issue. I should add the Task Manager solution is for Win 10 to avoid confusion.

I had the same issue as this thread but had to go one step past this otherwise great solution: I have dual monitors and my issue came down to hitting alt+ctrl+del and getting to the Task Manager. From there I unfolded the "Java(TM) Web Launcher" under Apps and right clicked the "IoX Launcher" icon and hit "Maximize". I then had to hit "ADD" and add back my ISY in the IoX Launcher window. It's not a ton different, but the launcher had minimized off screen and couldn't be "switched to" or "bring to front" even after deleting the .state files. I had to maximize to finally get everything to show up again. Hopefully this helps someone on the last step because otherwise the previous thread ends in the same place you started for all intents and purposes. Thanks @Geddy for the great write up!

I have 4 Schlage Connect Z-Wave deadbolts that work great for me. I need a 5th but they just hit $350 on Amazon. I really don't need a key on this one, so I am open to different options. Would love to be < $200. Non-Cloud would be awesome, but isn't 100% necessary.