smithlevenson

I made it work. It is too complex to waste time describing. I assumed that you could put a switch in circuit with a fan and deliver 120V to the fan in circuit with the switch. It did show some voltage but not 120V. I get what you were saying now, but when I added the 3 other fans and an always hot receptical it got complicated. Thanks again Stus!

Tried to get this to work yesterday, but my situation is a lot more complex up top. I have an always on receptacle in the mix. I am going to work on it again, but I could not get 120V with my meter with the keypadlinc wired in as described. Maybe I should just skip trying to wire through the Keypadlinc and just get power from the always hot receptacle connection in the first junction box. Just to confirm you are sure that the 120V passes through the Keypadlinc from the black line to the white nuetral and continues to the ceiling box? Sorry to bug you, but grappling with a volt meter, on a live line, on a ladder is not my fav thing.

My BTLE proximity detection works well on my RPi. I want to Implement it with KCK's Keypadlinc-like software. The only issue I have is annoying my wife with too much proximity awareness. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yeah I was thinking about the brightness issue and how it might all work better on an OLED screen. I was just trying to give it a "Insteon" look and feel. Certainly don't do anything on my behalf, I am just glad to be putting these Pi's to good use. I like your ideas and definitely don't want a uni-task device, but as you probably know the more familiar it is for my wife, the more likely she is to use it. So I was thinking standard Insteon interface that can then contextualize where the Keypadlinc is just one button press and done. I.E. My Keypadlinc buttons glow when any light in the scene is on so I can see what's on and turn everything off with a click. A program could allow a long press to bring up the status of each device in the scene to allow more control. Also, I was thinking about your offset of the Pi from the gang box and you should be able to make that all disappear by recessing in the dry wall a bit. Are you planning on printing a face plate too? I should have the screen by this weekend so I can give you some feedback about the rest of the program, if you want any. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Got it. Thanks a million Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

You don't think the Keypadlinc will introduce the dimmer buzzing issue. The power will still be coming from a dimmer right. Even at 100% they don't provide the correct power. I will re-read a few times and see if your solution mitigates the dimmer issue, or have you tested this set up?

Reviving an old thread here. I had 4 fans on a 2 wire 2474DWH but they sounded so strained until I put them back on a regular flip switch. I have ordered 4 Fanlincs for them, but now I need a switch that I can run the 4 fans from. I have a 8 switch Keypadlinc and 8 switch remote that I can use, but I am afraid that the Keypadlinc will reintroduce a dimmer to the equation and I would have to rewire to get a neutral. I could direct hard wire an always hot to the Fanlincs and control from an 8 switch remote set in the former switch housing. I guess I could wire the 2 wire 2474 in and pig tail off both wires to put the fans on a Switchlinc that is controlled by the dimmer. I wonder if this would still introduce the dimmer "noise" into the equation. I don't really need all the Fanlinc control other than for setting scenes (and to annoy my wife by automating everything). Am I missing something? These don't seem to be the best strategies. I guess let me know what you would do and I will let the people decide this one.

OK, Here is what I was thinking. This is all vector so it should be able to size with no issues. I used a Futuro Heavy Font to match the text on the KPL. We could change it up or whatever you want. I can make a day and night mode. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bw3y5u4bAcPoMFlCNUgwczZNSk0 https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bw3y5u4bAcPoOW9ZQ1JNNEhuSEk/view?usp=sharing

Ok that housing is awesome! You must have some serious CAD training. I am going to order the adafruit screen tonight and start trying to figure out how I am going to make this work. I wish I could add something to your design but you are light years ahead of me on that front. I still think the I am going to go Power of Ethernet since I have a switch and Cat 5 close and easy to run. It looks like it will double the thickness, but cut down on the power supply. What is your plan with the Micro Switch? I never turn my Pi off. With the 3 I just keep VNC running so I can remote in as needed. I will work something up on Illustrator and share it with you when I get to my work computer. I think making it mimic the KPL with some features we all wish the KPL had, would be really cool. I use my KPL as a status monitor so I can see at a glance what lights are on where. I think you could even make clicking a button expand in to give you more information on that scene, control, whatever. I will mock something up tomorrow and share it. Glad you are working on this project. I always thought these Pi's had potential in a home automation setting.

Have you thought about making improving the look of the buttons. I know you want them to be scale-able, but maybe for the specific screen you could whip up some buttons to mimic the look of the KPL. I could even make them for you in Illustrator if you don't mess with the graphic design stuff. Just let me know what pixel size the zero screen needs.

I posted about the Pi3 earlier this year when I reused a bit of code and got it working as a proximity detector with my Fitbit. The plan is for my ISY to know where I am in the house when I am wearing my fitbit. Adding a Keypadlinc feature would make it that much more functional. I also want to nest in a wall but I am a little concerned about it not being to code. I would hate to rip things out and patch if I decide to sell. That being said I want to make it happen in at least one location. I have seen a POE adapter for the RPi but it is a little bulky. They make wide and deep gang boxes though so you might could shoehorn it in and since POE is considered low voltage it could be to code. It would also hurt the bottom line cost of the unit. I still think it would be worth it since you could add some additional features that are outside of the realm of Insteon (calendar notifications, security video when the doorbell rings, etc.) I would love to see how you are mounting it if you have any pictures. I haven't gotten into the 3D printing so I am a little lost on how to make it look good.

You rock. I knew there was an answer and that (for once) makes total sense. I guess the ApplianceLinc will need to go in the to-be-upgraded pile since I don't want to introduce any continuous polling if I can avoid it. Thanks Fitz.

When I push the button on the side of the ApplianceLinc the ISY does not immediately update the status of the device. I have to hit query to make it update. There don't seem to be any options for the ApplianceLinc in the main device section either, I need to have the status to sync the LED on the KeypadLinc with the device's (a fan) status.

I am building some shutters that will be connected to a barn door rail and I want to close them when the sun hits the window in the late afternoon and then opens them back at sunset. Has anyone done this? I figure the micro controller will be enough to flip the switch to activate the actuators, but have some questions on a few issues. 1) what type of actuators to use? I don't want to burn out motors since the shutters will be pretty heavy (9' x 2.5' each with a 30"+ Stroke). Any brands that have a cutoff when stuck? 2) Temperature sensor or light meter? Which is more reliable? I don't mind the sun when it is cool, but it melts you when it's hot. Any ideas welcome! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk