smithlevenson

Thanks for all the replies. I have the global cache and it Uses Alexa voice commands to switch a state variable and trigger programs that use the network module to send a command to the global cache and received by thee relevant AV component as an IR command. That part works perfectly. I just need some program or other that changes a state variable to say 884 if that days game is on channel 884. I have everything handled from that part on (and yes it is hundreds of programs to control the IR). I guess this is better handled with an outside program and use REST to change the variable to that number. I was just trying to avoid the always running trap so I didn't get a program crash and the variable doesn't get updated. I used the ISY for IR mainly to avoid the "multiple points of control" issue that I think we all get with each new interconnected device and some dumb ones (like my projector) I also wanted to make sure things like having the Projector turn off if no motion is detected for 2+ hours to save the bulb works reliably. I have had very few issues with the global cache IR portion. In fact it works well once all the programs are written.

OK. This may end up being too big of a pain in the *** to implement (ie if each date has to be its own variable), but what I am trying to do is have the ISY look up the date of a sports program and automatically change the cable box to that channel. I have a table of the dates and channels, and I have Alexa working fine changing to the Name or Number of any particular channel. So what I need to figure out is how to have a variable check an external source for the channel and save that into memory of the variable so Alexa can access it. Am I trying to do something that can't be done succinctly?

Awesome! Thanks for making me feel stupid.

So I am having Trouble with Alexa. She turns on devices fine, but is having trouble with State Variables. I followed the following directions: Log into ISY Portal (my.isy.io), click on My Profile at the top right corner Choose your ISY from Preferred ISY drop down Click on Link this profile to an Amazon account Under Select Tool choose Connectivity | Amazon Echo and enter mappings between your devices, scenes, programs, and state variables to their associated and desired spoken names Login to the Echo app Click on the Smart Home menu item on the left navigation bar Under Your Smart Home Skills, click on Get More Smart Home Skills Search for ISY Click the Enable button next to ISY Optimized for Smart Home V2 Click on the Smart Home menu item on the left navigation bar again make sure ISY Optimized for Smart Home shows up under Your Smart Home Skills Click on Discover Devices. This will bring in all the devices you have created a mapping for in your ISY Portal Please note that every time you change spoken fields, you must redo the previous step The State Variables are showing up as devices in the Alexa App as "Test". When I tell Alexa to "Tell Izzy to turn Test on". She responds with "I am unable to turn on the statevar test" (confirmed in the app). The State Variable in ISY is ALEXATEST and in the portal it is set to Off-0 and On-1, spoken word Test. I am a little confused and can't find anything else about this problem. Hopefully someone else has had this problem.

This might be a little off topic but I wasn't able to get a straight answer before and had seen it asked a few times. I was able to run a straight stereo cable from the output of the Global Cache IP2IR and straight into the receiver port of my BAFX IR repeater. This avoided the awkward, unreliable, transmit to IR emitter and capture from the IR receiver that I was forced to deal with on the Insteon 2411T debacle. I am planning on using Alexa to send the IR commands, but haven't fully tested the set-up.

Sorry for the very late reply. I moved away from the proximity and towards Alexa. I just tell her where what I want and she does what I need. The only other proximity project I am working on is a key fob system. That is mainly hardware though. I can send you some snippets of code I was working with to make the detection possible if you like. I think it is in Python. It was pretty straightforward.

Just wondering. The permissions list are so vague that there is no telling what they want. I personally liked a disclaimer I found once that talked about the company being morally opposed to collecting, selling, or otherwise abusing personal information.

Just curious. Why do you need access to Contacts?

kck I messaged you. I will send you the config.txt file too. I left most of it alone because when I tried to remove everything I got some errors about MainChain and SecondaryChain so I figured they couldn't be left empty.

If you want to send me your rest/nodes so I can see how it translates over. I just want to make sure the error is not on my side.

Thanks for the quick response kck! There is probably no way to come up with every eventuality of a program you didn't create. I commend you on your efforts. I am having a pretty hard time with the config file and getting it to load. I keep ending up with a Daemon died error, but the Pi screen turns off too fast for me to see what the error is. I am trying to keep it real simple, but I must not be reading the usage notes correctly. Let me know if you have some time to debug it with me.

Hey kck, I got the screen and installed your program (very impressive install package by the way) and just started messing around with it. I noticed that you use https (to protect the plain text user:pass in the config.txt I assume). I am getting a cert warning here because I haven't updated my self signed cert yet. but I then run into an error. I had two disabled devices in the ISY that I think caused the following error. Once I deleted them the error cleared. Traceback (most recent call last): File "console.py", line 83, in <module> config.ISY = isy.ISY(config.ISYrequestsession) File "/home/pi/consolestable/isy.py", line 220, in __init__ n = Node(node['@flag'], node['name'], node['address'], int(node['parent']['@type']), KeyError: 'parent' I think they kick back the error because they don't have a parent listed like all the other nodes. Just FYI. I am working through a few more issues, but I will try and solve them before I hit you back up.

Totally off topic, but I switched from wire nuts to WAGO Pushwire connectors. I think I am in love. I know, I know that the surface area of the push in connectors is much less than the wire nuts, but for a 4 fan installs over my head 10' ceilings with a small box they were life savers. I was able to make cleaner connections with less bulk on the 6 - 14 AWG wires. They also flex into smaller spaces when they aren't all twisted up in a bundle. I may live to regret it, but those things are amazing for speed and accuracy. I am ordering in bulk for my neutral wire connections. (At least it was my topic to go off of ; )

I made it work. It is too complex to waste time describing. I assumed that you could put a switch in circuit with a fan and deliver 120V to the fan in circuit with the switch. It did show some voltage but not 120V. I get what you were saying now, but when I added the 3 other fans and an always hot receptical it got complicated. Thanks again Stus!

Tried to get this to work yesterday, but my situation is a lot more complex up top. I have an always on receptacle in the mix. I am going to work on it again, but I could not get 120V with my meter with the keypadlinc wired in as described. Maybe I should just skip trying to wire through the Keypadlinc and just get power from the always hot receptacle connection in the first junction box. Just to confirm you are sure that the 120V passes through the Keypadlinc from the black line to the white nuetral and continues to the ceiling box? Sorry to bug you, but grappling with a volt meter, on a live line, on a ladder is not my fav thing.

My BTLE proximity detection works well on my RPi. I want to Implement it with KCK's Keypadlinc-like software. The only issue I have is annoying my wife with too much proximity awareness. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yeah I was thinking about the brightness issue and how it might all work better on an OLED screen. I was just trying to give it a "Insteon" look and feel. Certainly don't do anything on my behalf, I am just glad to be putting these Pi's to good use. I like your ideas and definitely don't want a uni-task device, but as you probably know the more familiar it is for my wife, the more likely she is to use it. So I was thinking standard Insteon interface that can then contextualize where the Keypadlinc is just one button press and done. I.E. My Keypadlinc buttons glow when any light in the scene is on so I can see what's on and turn everything off with a click. A program could allow a long press to bring up the status of each device in the scene to allow more control. Also, I was thinking about your offset of the Pi from the gang box and you should be able to make that all disappear by recessing in the dry wall a bit. Are you planning on printing a face plate too? I should have the screen by this weekend so I can give you some feedback about the rest of the program, if you want any. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Got it. Thanks a million Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

You don't think the Keypadlinc will introduce the dimmer buzzing issue. The power will still be coming from a dimmer right. Even at 100% they don't provide the correct power. I will re-read a few times and see if your solution mitigates the dimmer issue, or have you tested this set up?

Reviving an old thread here. I had 4 fans on a 2 wire 2474DWH but they sounded so strained until I put them back on a regular flip switch. I have ordered 4 Fanlincs for them, but now I need a switch that I can run the 4 fans from. I have a 8 switch Keypadlinc and 8 switch remote that I can use, but I am afraid that the Keypadlinc will reintroduce a dimmer to the equation and I would have to rewire to get a neutral. I could direct hard wire an always hot to the Fanlincs and control from an 8 switch remote set in the former switch housing. I guess I could wire the 2 wire 2474 in and pig tail off both wires to put the fans on a Switchlinc that is controlled by the dimmer. I wonder if this would still introduce the dimmer "noise" into the equation. I don't really need all the Fanlinc control other than for setting scenes (and to annoy my wife by automating everything). Am I missing something? These don't seem to be the best strategies. I guess let me know what you would do and I will let the people decide this one.

OK, Here is what I was thinking. This is all vector so it should be able to size with no issues. I used a Futuro Heavy Font to match the text on the KPL. We could change it up or whatever you want. I can make a day and night mode. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bw3y5u4bAcPoMFlCNUgwczZNSk0 https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bw3y5u4bAcPoOW9ZQ1JNNEhuSEk/view?usp=sharing

Ok that housing is awesome! You must have some serious CAD training. I am going to order the adafruit screen tonight and start trying to figure out how I am going to make this work. I wish I could add something to your design but you are light years ahead of me on that front. I still think the I am going to go Power of Ethernet since I have a switch and Cat 5 close and easy to run. It looks like it will double the thickness, but cut down on the power supply. What is your plan with the Micro Switch? I never turn my Pi off. With the 3 I just keep VNC running so I can remote in as needed. I will work something up on Illustrator and share it with you when I get to my work computer. I think making it mimic the KPL with some features we all wish the KPL had, would be really cool. I use my KPL as a status monitor so I can see at a glance what lights are on where. I think you could even make clicking a button expand in to give you more information on that scene, control, whatever. I will mock something up tomorrow and share it. Glad you are working on this project. I always thought these Pi's had potential in a home automation setting.

Have you thought about making improving the look of the buttons. I know you want them to be scale-able, but maybe for the specific screen you could whip up some buttons to mimic the look of the KPL. I could even make them for you in Illustrator if you don't mess with the graphic design stuff. Just let me know what pixel size the zero screen needs.

I posted about the Pi3 earlier this year when I reused a bit of code and got it working as a proximity detector with my Fitbit. The plan is for my ISY to know where I am in the house when I am wearing my fitbit. Adding a Keypadlinc feature would make it that much more functional. I also want to nest in a wall but I am a little concerned about it not being to code. I would hate to rip things out and patch if I decide to sell. That being said I want to make it happen in at least one location. I have seen a POE adapter for the RPi but it is a little bulky. They make wide and deep gang boxes though so you might could shoehorn it in and since POE is considered low voltage it could be to code. It would also hurt the bottom line cost of the unit. I still think it would be worth it since you could add some additional features that are outside of the realm of Insteon (calendar notifications, security video when the doorbell rings, etc.) I would love to see how you are mounting it if you have any pictures. I haven't gotten into the 3D printing so I am a little lost on how to make it look good.

You rock. I knew there was an answer and that (for once) makes total sense. I guess the ApplianceLinc will need to go in the to-be-upgraded pile since I don't want to introduce any continuous polling if I can avoid it. Thanks Fitz.