KSchex

Hi all. Looking to replace my "sad" Ring Doorbell with something better. Can anybody recommend anything that uses your local LAN and not the Internet and cloud? Thanks..

Together with the ISY and Z Wave the larger part of my HA is my hardware and software designs. At one point I considered this and started to document everything. Then I realized there is no way my family could deal with this. Call the electrician!

Wow! It's like I opened a can of worms and they all popped out! As I said before I want to replace my older rock solid Netgear WNDR4000 with some "today" technology. The new unit doesn't need 12 antennas, beaming, etc. It just needs 2.4Ghz & 5Ghz to perform well in a 2400 sq ft home that is located in a sea of other WIFIed homes. What ever I select will need to function flawlessly for another 10 years as I am not one to constantly tweek my LAN nor do I need "away" access. As for DHCP, yes I use it. I also save specific address ranges and give some specific devices a specific address. Some devices have a static IP. It depends on the technical circumstance. Not all devices and LANS are equal. Once again, thank you all for your input. I will update you as to what I go with.

Thanks all for the tips. I guess I need to start researching..

Thanks for the tip.

Hi all.. I currently have a several year old Netgear WNDR4000 router. It has performed fine but it is at it's limits with phones, home automation, TVs, laptops, Kindle, printer, diskstation, media server, etc. I would like to replace the router with something of todays technology that is a stable name brand product reasonably priced. What I don't want is a unit with a dozen antennas and all these fancy gaming features. That is not necessary. There is only two of us, using AT&T Uverse internet (non fiber), about 24 Mbps down and 6 Mbps up. Any pointers or product recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks.

I agree. After a lifetime of hardware and software design I have found coincidences sometimes coinside. We'll never know.

I find it interesting about the AWS server. Just so happens that my three Echo Shows updated about 2hours before the portal failure.

Never rely on the internet for your home controls. My Alexa is down too and I miss it, but I have a backup program on my phone using rest commands over my home LAN. Hope it is back up soon, my wife can't live without Alexa.

I don't either. I have some on doors but I use some with push buttons attached, garage door motor run, where ever I need a contact input.

It is a big deal for those that can't afford to keep throwing C Notes at hardware upgrades. I don't want to have to learn about "another system" every couple of years no matter how backward compatible it is.

I have found that the Homeseer window/door sensors are much more reliable and easier on batteries than the Aeotec. I do have an Aeotec in my mailbox that has been working for years. It use to eat batteries so I modified it to use D batteries. Neither display the battery reliably on the ISY. I think this has something to do with waking up, etc.

I am sorry to hear about these issues, they concern me. Not being able to maintain your own hardware/software configuration is very costly when you have to go back to the drawing board.

@tmorse305 Cool job on your mail box. Nice and simple. I Z-Waved my mailbox about 5 years ago. I used an Aeotec window switch with 2 D batteries. The D's don't fail as often in the winter weather. Everything is mounted on an aluminum plate on the rear inside the mailbox. As you can see I cut out the back of the mailbox and put a plexiglass cover over it. I did paint the PCB with coating to protect it from the weather. Been working ever since with out failure.

My apologies sir. I am not doubting the avability of smart breakers As a retired practicing electrical engineer and designer I can tell you that not all controlled breakers are meant to be used as a switch. I am sure you allready know this by the specs you quoted. On some, the control is only meant to be a remote reset. As with any good design one should check the local electrical code to make sure it is allowed. Best of luck.