PatPend

My electrician installed TCP LEDs in our soffits and they dim perfectly with Insteon dimmers plus they look great. Pics below are for the 3000K flood but in the soffits he used 2700K spots of the same brand.

My Macs also run 10.13.6 for the same reason and I too have to do the start.jnlp rigmarole every time. I can sometimes get away with using the mobile app to do simple tasks, which avoids the the extra login steps.

I have a Mini Remote 8 Scene wireless keypad that I use to control 8 different lights. Each light has its own scene with other controllers along with the Mini Remote. The problem is the Mini Remote alternates between sending an "on" or "off" command regardless of the state of the scene. So for example if the lights are on and you want to turn them off with the Mini Remote, the Mini Remote may be in a state where the last command it sent was "off" so when you press it it turns the already-on lights "on" so you have you press it a second time to turn off the lights. I get why this happens - the remote doesn't receive except in programming mode - but I think I have a solution. I am thinking about removing the buttons from the scenes, and use a program to detect when Mini Remote button is pressed and then based on whether the scene is on or off, turn the scene off or on accordingly. Perhaps also detect if the button is held down and brighten or dim the scene. Has anyone done something similar and if so what was your approach?

Thanks @Javi!

How do you add a device to a scene in the mobile app? I actually was able to do this once but for the life of me I can't do it again. Android app 0.156

It's things like this that make us all wish for a successful Insteon comeback.

Take note:

If your thermostat doesn't support NWI/NWE it's a Zwave Classic device. Your Zwave network will fall back to Zwave Classic mode and NWI/NWE won't work, even though your other devices and dongle are ZWave Plus.

My bedrooms and bathroom on levels change twice a day too, this is something else. Evidently a distinction exists between programmed on level, and last on level. When the device is set to Resume Dim, the programmed on level is ignored and the last on level is used. The desired (programmed) on level in this case was always 100%. When I turned the light on it would initially go to 100% (as expected). Then, if I manually dimmed the device to, say, 33%, then manually turned it off by tapping the bottom of the paddle, when I manually turned it on by tapping the top of the paddle, it would go to 33%. No other dimmer in my house worked like this. Nor did the programmed on-level change on the device in question. The only conclusion is the Resume Dim feature somehow got enabled on this particular device. The funny thing is that there's no support on the ISY to manipulate Resume Dim. Maybe it's something the Insteon Hub supports but I don't have one of those. So how it got enabled on this one dimmer is a mystery to me. Maybe it was a glitch in the ISY, or in the dimmer, or maybe Smarthome sent me a repacked 2477D that had the feature enabled, or maybe after one too many beers I managed to inadvertently monkey through the precise sequence of set button presses to enable this feature.

After a factory reset, dimming worked correctly again (full brightness turn-on). However when I restored the device from the ISY, the problem returned. So a glitch or corruption in the ISY data for this device caused the problem. I ended up a) removing device from the ISY b) factory resetting the device c) re-linking device to the ISY d) re-adding device to all scenes. Problem solved. BTW it turns out this feature is called "Resume Dim" and AFAIK can only be deliberately enabled via local programming mode.

That's the thing, on the ISY the default on level is 100%. But it turns on to whatever it was last time. I'll try a factory reset.

I have four Insteon dimmers in my kitchen. Each of them is a controller of their respective scene, along with a respective button of two other keypad links. All four scenes are set up identically. When I turn on one of the dimmers, it always turns on to the last brightness set at that dimmer. The other three work as expected i.e. go to full brightness. So it seems this one dimmer is set to remember the previous on-level while every other one doesn't. I have no idea why it does this. Any ideas what's going on and more importantly, how to change the dimmer so it doesn't remember the previous dimming level and instead always turn on at full brightness?

That last screw got me too.

What I meant to say by on-level is the brightness at which the light turns on when a person hits the switch, not turn the light on at that brightness. This way, when we are watching TV or a film and the lights are dimmed, and someone uses the bathroom, the lights come on at a gentle brightness so their retinas don't get blown out. Virtual Node Server worked like a charm, thank you.

I have a bathroom off my living room. The lights are controlled by an Insteon dimmer whose on-level changes based on time-of day by a scheduled program. I also have a scene that dims the lights for watching TV. When the TV scene is activated (by KPL button or via Home Assistant integration) I want to run a second program to change the bathroom on-levels to another value. I tried setting a condition for the THEN clause but only devices are allowed, not scenes. Is there a way to trigger a program based on a scene activation?

I have a Zwave dimmer controlling a fixture with three Philips LED bulbs. If they're dimmed to anything less than 100% they flicker whenever there's any Insteon traffic in the house. I tried three different Zwave dimmers, UltraPro, GE Enbrighten, and Minoston and they all flicker. I tried a 0.1uF 400V cap across the line side, then on the load side, neither made any difference. Then I tried an Insteon 2477D dimmer, and the bulbs do not flicker, ever. Any idea whats going on here?

https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/34354-sonoff-snzb-02-temphumidity-sensor-support-requested/?do=findComment&comment=323769

That comment was referring to the Leviton ZW15R-1BW Smart Outlet. This is a Zwave Plus device of which I purchased several in an effort to build out my mesh. Aesthetically the design of these outlets appealed to me because they have a clean look with no visible logo when installed, and the flush round button and hidden LED is more elegant to my eye than, say, GE Enbrighten outlets. Last but not least the fact the lower outlet is always on rather than the upper outlet worked better for my purposes. Unfortunately the RF performance of these outlets sucked, for me. I could not get them to reliably join the network and when they did, they worked poorly. Maybe 1 out of 10 times they would respond to a command. Two of these couldn't even communicate line-of-sight across a 25' room. The other thing that bugged me is the long-press needed to get into programming mode. One or twice this is fine but after the 10th, 20th, 30th time trying different configurations it really gets old. Being relatively inexperienced at Zwave, and believing Leviton was a top-of-the-line product, I was pretty frustrated. I spent about half-hour on the phone with Leviton support. In sum, there is no firmware upgrade available and because it was a range-related issue they couldn't help me. So I tried a few of the GE outlets and they just worked, perfectly and reliably. They're not as pretty but they work great and truth be told nobody spends time looking at outlets especially those a foot off the floor. Another thing I've learned during my recent foray into the Zwave world is not all devices are created equal. With Insteon, you bought a dimmer and you knew you could adjust the dimming speed, default on level, how the LED behaves etc. With Zwave devices this is not the case. So when evaluating a Zwave device for possible purchase I will go to the Zwave Alliance site, look up the device in question and check out the Configuration Parameters to see exactly which tricks the device can perform.

Probably a long shot but have you tried a phase coupler?

I'm in the same boat. I had better results with Jasco outlets (UltraPro/GE Enbrighten/Honeywell) than Leviton. Although I preferred Leviton's aesthetics they didn't work well.

Police-y? Policy? Something else?

If/when my serial PLM croaks I'll replace the caps. And just in case I'm making one of these as a backup: See also https://github.com/mrworf/serial-bridge

So it turned out to be a couple of things. First, although the ISY showed that NWI was enabled, NWI did not actually work until I toggled NWI off then back on again. Second, in my opinion Leviton ZW15R outlets have really crappy range which was causing them to not include, or if included, to work sporadically. In comparison, the Enbrighten/Jasco 55256 outlets are so much better and way more in line with expectations of what a wireless device ought to be capable of. I called Leviton support to see if a fix was available and was told there was not, because my issue was related to range there was nothing they could do.

Just a follow-up, the Hubitat arrived and it proved to be exactly what I was looking for. After 3D printing this mounting bracket and installing it towards the opposite end of my home from the ISY, I had it up & running, paired to the Zwave device I was trying reach, and configured it as a nodeserver to the ISY in less than an hour. Many thanks to @upstatemike for his solution to and to all who responded.

Sorry if I gave the wrong impression, if I didn't value and respect the members of this forum I wouldn't be asking here. (And c'mon that Christmas Vacation clip was funny). My goal is to migrate from an Insteon-only network to a hybrid system (which now thanks to Polyglot supports Tasmota devices via MQTT and Minka fans via Bond Bridge). ZWave is the next piece of the puzzle. I am adding additional modules but facing challenges getting a signal to cross even one room. In addition, based on my experience so far and the layout of my house, even if I replaced every switch and outlet, it's not clear the mesh could reach from one end to the other without exceeding 4 hops and such an experiment would be difficult to justify economically. Hence my initial query. I will look into this, thank you! EDIT: Supports ZWave and Zigbee and on sale for $99.95? Wow, just grabbed one. THANKS