PatPend

I would try this but don't you still need clear buttons? Otherwise won't the factory lettering show through?

Or for "your safety" requiring your devices check in with google servers, otherwise they stop working. Or begin working poorly. Or becoming strangely incompatible with things that used to work. Fool me once...

Didn't google and amazon have a heavy hand in creating the matter standard? If so I already don't trust it.

I signed up for the seminar and that was the exact question I submitted, i.e. licensing or open-sourcing the Insteon protocol. So we'll see.

I'm hoping they will revive custom button etching (and blanks) for keypadlinks.

My electrician installed TCP LEDs in our soffits and they dim perfectly with Insteon dimmers plus they look great. Pics below are for the 3000K flood but in the soffits he used 2700K spots of the same brand.

My Macs also run 10.13.6 for the same reason and I too have to do the start.jnlp rigmarole every time. I can sometimes get away with using the mobile app to do simple tasks, which avoids the the extra login steps.

"You can't sell from an empty cart." -Old Yiddish adage

I have a Mini Remote 8 Scene wireless keypad that I use to control 8 different lights. Each light has its own scene with other controllers along with the Mini Remote. The problem is the Mini Remote alternates between sending an "on" or "off" command regardless of the state of the scene. So for example if the lights are on and you want to turn them off with the Mini Remote, the Mini Remote may be in a state where the last command it sent was "off" so when you press it it turns the already-on lights "on" so you have you press it a second time to turn off the lights. I get why this happens - the remote doesn't receive except in programming mode - but I think I have a solution. I am thinking about removing the buttons from the scenes, and use a program to detect when Mini Remote button is pressed and then based on whether the scene is on or off, turn the scene off or on accordingly. Perhaps also detect if the button is held down and brighten or dim the scene. Has anyone done something similar and if so what was your approach?

Thanks @Javi!

How do you add a device to a scene in the mobile app? I actually was able to do this once but for the life of me I can't do it again. Android app 0.156

It's things like this that make us all wish for a successful Insteon comeback.

Surely they have our best interests at heart.

Take note:

If your thermostat doesn't support NWI/NWE it's a Zwave Classic device. Your Zwave network will fall back to Zwave Classic mode and NWI/NWE won't work, even though your other devices and dongle are ZWave Plus.

Insteon's "main" patent was filed in 2004. Normally a patent expires 20 years from the date it was filed, so it would expire in 2024 except that, because of delays in the patent office, they got almost two extra years added on. So to be precise it expires Sept. 19 2026.

You didn't define what a "controller" was and as such the statement, interpreted broadly, was misleading. That was exactly my point.

If someone makes a controller that performs the steps or includes the elements recited in Insteon's patent(s), it would infringe the patent.

What are the odds the midnight shift in some factory in Shenzhen runs off a few batches of Insteon goodies?

Their patent 7,345,998 which covers the dual band mesh protocol doesn't expire until September 2026. Until then the creditors/successors in interest, whoever they are, still own the rights. After a patent expires it falls into the public domain, however unless you get the rights to the chip & mechanical designs you'd have to engineer a compatible product from scratch. Whether this will make economic sense in 2026 is an open question.

My bedrooms and bathroom on levels change twice a day too, this is something else. Evidently a distinction exists between programmed on level, and last on level. When the device is set to Resume Dim, the programmed on level is ignored and the last on level is used. The desired (programmed) on level in this case was always 100%. When I turned the light on it would initially go to 100% (as expected). Then, if I manually dimmed the device to, say, 33%, then manually turned it off by tapping the bottom of the paddle, when I manually turned it on by tapping the top of the paddle, it would go to 33%. No other dimmer in my house worked like this. Nor did the programmed on-level change on the device in question. The only conclusion is the Resume Dim feature somehow got enabled on this particular device. The funny thing is that there's no support on the ISY to manipulate Resume Dim. Maybe it's something the Insteon Hub supports but I don't have one of those. So how it got enabled on this one dimmer is a mystery to me. Maybe it was a glitch in the ISY, or in the dimmer, or maybe Smarthome sent me a repacked 2477D that had the feature enabled, or maybe after one too many beers I managed to inadvertently monkey through the precise sequence of set button presses to enable this feature.

After a factory reset, dimming worked correctly again (full brightness turn-on). However when I restored the device from the ISY, the problem returned. So a glitch or corruption in the ISY data for this device caused the problem. I ended up a) removing device from the ISY b) factory resetting the device c) re-linking device to the ISY d) re-adding device to all scenes. Problem solved. BTW it turns out this feature is called "Resume Dim" and AFAIK can only be deliberately enabled via local programming mode.

That's the thing, on the ISY the default on level is 100%. But it turns on to whatever it was last time. I'll try a factory reset.

I have four Insteon dimmers in my kitchen. Each of them is a controller of their respective scene, along with a respective button of two other keypad links. All four scenes are set up identically. When I turn on one of the dimmers, it always turns on to the last brightness set at that dimmer. The other three work as expected i.e. go to full brightness. So it seems this one dimmer is set to remember the previous on-level while every other one doesn't. I have no idea why it does this. Any ideas what's going on and more importantly, how to change the dimmer so it doesn't remember the previous dimming level and instead always turn on at full brightness?

That last screw got me too.