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Updated to 5.6. Eisy can't be found by the launcher even though it has an assigned address by the router. I have pulled power and reconnected. No immediate success. It is disconnected from the portal.

If none of that works, open a ticket. I had this problem with my eisy and could not solve it despite proving the PLM and cable were good. It was some software problem with my eisy that was beyond my knowledge. UDI remoted in and spent quite a bit of time diagnosing and fixing it. Great support.

Homeseer now has a working Nest plugin. I've installed it and it handles my 8 Nest thermostats flawlessly.

There's a Hubitat app, MyNextManager that works. Takes a very complicated and finnicky setup but works. There is a new Homeseer plugin that is in beta that works like a charm with a very easy setup.

Thank you very much! That worked brilliantly. Took a long time for the updates. I did buy the Polisy very early in the rollout.... Happy Holidays!

Basic question on ISY on Polisy. SSH to Polisy and following the directions for sudo pkg update, sudo pkg upgrade, sudo service isy restart informs me that isy is not found. So of course the ISY Finder can't find it. I must be missing a basic step but I can't find it in the forum discussions.

Thanks, tried this but it won't find an update. Is the update compatible with ISY 5.3?

I hadn't checked the Polisy console for about a month. All of my nodeservers are functioning. Today I see that nothing has been recorded in the log since February 11. I've restarted, rebooted to no effect. The other symptom is that I cannot get the Polisy configuration to show, only the message "please wait, getting configuration" Version 2.2.11 Status: Connected Frontend Version: 2.2.9-5 ISY Version: 5.3.0 Uptime: 9 Minute(s) 39 Second(s) (c) 2021 UDI Running on Polisy Documentation

These are a nice product and do work inside my freezers but the range of the transmission is much shorter. They warn about condensation ruining the electronics if you take them out of the freezer to change the batteries without drying them off with a hair dryer so I wonder how long they would last outside. Battery on one of them lasted about 9 months before needing replacement just recently and the other one will need to be replaced soon. In any case, the OP's mailbox doesn't have a flap so these wouldn't work for him. My mailbox is about 100 feet away from the house. I might try putting one of the CAO Tags on the flap just to see how it compares with the current set up.

Sorry, yes the correct url is adaptivation.com The product is called a Pal Pad. They come in different sizes and sensitivities. The pad by itself could detect a stack of mail. I constructed a weighted panel supported on four corners with small tubing that slides on screws and a center point projection that contacts the pad to make it sensitive enough to detect a couple of letters. I suppose you could do the same kind of thing with a momentary switch under a panel cheaper. I settled on monitoring the flap since I had that option.

What I have done with this is to install a hardwired contact sensor that detects the mail box flap opening. The magnet is on the flap and the sensor is mounted inside the mailbox. Wire from the sensor runs out the back through a sealed hole to connect with a Honeywell 5816OD wireless sensor that has connections for an external contact sensor. This transmits a signal to my ElK M1G which is then read by my ISY. I get an email whenever the mailbox is opened. At night after 10 PM if anyone opens that flap, the outside lights go on, strobes flash and the outside siren goes off. You could use the Everspring Z-Wave SM103 which also has external contact connections to do the same thing with a Z-wave system. You would need to waterproof it. The Honeywell device is designed for outdoor installation. Anything wireless will have to be installed outside the mailbox. Rereading your initial post, your mailbox may not have a flap closure over the slot. Another solution I considered is to use a membrane switch in the mailbox. I experimented with one from adaptivision.com that is very sensitive and properly installed would be able to detect the weight of a couple of letters. Same kind of installation otherwise. Run wires from the membrane switch to a transmitter outside the box.

And it will sort them if you click on the columns.

I have a Hikvision DS-HD1. Checkout the discussion about this on Cocoontech

Had this problem as well. Here's the thread with what worked for me. The 500 board doesn't have the antenna that was on the 300 board. As you'll see, I had to get devices very close to add them. Once I had a few added, things went better.

Regarding the switch, it's pretty much a single point although the float will travel a small distance before opening the circuit and then has to be in the fully closed position before closing the circuit. There are other aspects of my system that prevent frequent cycling. The pond has a motion activated waterfall. When that pump comes on the water level in the pond falls, the device activates and begins filling the pond. The flow rate through the device is controlled by a valve and is deliberately set low. Then when the waterfall turns off after 10 minutes of no motion (which is most of the time), water flows back into the pond and raises it's level above the level that would activate the device. Thus the pond level stays above the activation point except when the waterfall is running or when there has been water loss from the system. Mechanical hysteresis is built into the system. My second pond doesn't have that waterfall feature so I'll have to solve the problem that your set up posed. I'm going to experiment with an ISY program that would be activated when the Insteon DIN rail device turns on. The program would keep the valve open for a set period after the float switch closes, filling the pond above the float switch level and establishing the same kind of mechanical hysteresis in the system. Then the program would return the DIN rail device to its previous state. I'll post the results after I have a chance to fiddle with that. One other thing. I don't have to worry about the ponds overflowing because there is an overflow reservoir with a pump that I can activate to send water back into the pond-stream system. George

Hi Dave, Because I'm using the sense wires on the DIN on/off device wired to a "Gems Sensors 160460 Nylon Float Small Size Type 7 External Mounting Single Point Level Switch, 11/16" Diameter, 1/2" NPT Male" the device doesn't need the ISY to function but can still be controlled and monitored from the ISY. You can see the Gem Sensor in one of the pictures with some black tape around it. The level switch is mechanically mounted so I can move it up and down to adjust the pond level at which it triggers. I think the valve in the box is the same one you used. The flow rate is controlled by a valve on the plumbing line that isn't shown in the pictures. I appreciate the inspiration--I'd been checking the ponds for years and periodically filling them with a hose. George

My wife just shakes her head in amusement at my projects. Inspired by aviatordave's project, I put this pond level controller together. Used Insteon DIN relays with the sense wires going to a float valve to control a 24 volt DC power supply which powers the valve. This is plumbed into above ground piping that runs under the tea house by the pond, hence the galvanized steel plumbing. I added two LED lights, one to indicate that the system is powered (green) and a blue light to show that water is flowing to the pond. My ISY can control the system but mainly just monitors it. I do have other controls through the ISY on the pond and stream system. For example, I have a cascading waterfall that only runs when motion is sensed.

Currently it's 54 devices and has been pretty stable plus or minus a phone or two. The table, of course, would allow for many more addresses and my router can run two separate LANs though I haven't needed to set that up. I used to have continuous router trouble when I was using a single device combining router and wireless access. Finally got sick of resetting those devices and spotty wifi access after I went through 3 of them and installed and Edgerouter 4 and 3 TP-link EAP225 access points which cover the property nicely. That was about two years ago and has run without a hiccup since then. The only thing that happened in my system that was temporally related was the installation of avahi-daemon on my Hometroller SEL the day before in an attempt to get a new plugin that is supposed to communicate with my Envoy (the controller for my solar system) to work. Hard to see how that would have done it. In any case, everything is continuing to work without any problems but I'll keep monitoring more closely.

Woke up this morning to find all of my Echo devices unable to connect. Everything else in the house is working--wireless phones, tablets, other wireless devices. My Edge router still shows their IP addresses and my TP-link access points remain accessible. The Echo devices say they're offline. The detect the house networks but indicate they are unable to acquire an IP address. Hence all of my spokens are out of commission. Anyone else seeing this? Well that was flat weird. Tried disconnecting the Echo devices and rejoining the network to no effect. Nests were connecting fine as were the Roku's My i-phone and other devices were connecting but indicated 'weak security'. Fiddled around with my access points (EAP225s) to no effect. Everything seemed fine when I logged into the access points and the router. Finally just unplugged my Edge Router 4. Plugged it back in and bingo, all was well....

Assuming you have the I/O Linc connected to a sensor which reflects the status of the door, the I/O Linc will reflect the actual status. My garage door sensor is mounted on the floor of the garage with a magnet mounted on the door. It's made for that application. When the door is closed, the sensor is Off. When open, its On. The relay on the I/O Linc is set to Momentary B and acts like the push button on the garage door. Doesn't matter if it's on or off. Either signal closes the relay momentarily and activates the door. My setup is a bit more complicated since it's a Chamberlain and can be and is controlled by the MyQ node server and involves a modification of the door's push button as the signal to the opener is not just a simple contact closure. Hope that helps.

There are several modules that will do what you want. You can find them here on the Smarthome website.

Well, I'm in the same situation. Fortunately, Z-wave is a minor part of my system but I would like to get it up and running again. Per the wiki, I have a request in.

Fantastic project! I have a similar set up with two ponds, a waterfall feeding the upper pond, and a stream connecting the ponds. I've got it set up so that the upper waterfall runs when a motion sensor (MSII which I've had all kinds of trouble with) detects someone. The programs for that set a state variable when motion is detected, the next program disables the first, runs the pump for 10 minutes, then enables the first program. The pump for that waterfall uses lots of watts which is why I have it set up that way. I really like the stainless steel float sensors you have in your system. Could you give the source for those?

I'm up and running with polisy but I have to say it took some fiddling. Here's what worked for me in case it's helpful. First the device booted up as expected with the proper sequence according to the directions. My router assigned an address and identified the device as polisy. I cleared my java cache and then tried to connect with https://polisy. This did not work on Edge, IE, or Chrome. Tried the DCHP address. No joy on Edge or IE. On chrome, the device refused connection. I noticed that my ISY was on 5.015 and downloaded and installed 5.016B. Reset the polisy. Same result. Reset it again...and tried the browsers. Was about to give up when Chrome finally worked but with the expected warning. I was able to login, set the password etc. and install nodeservers. Appeared to be working fine. Established a static address for it in my router. Made it a 'favorite' on Chrome. Logged out and was able to log back in successfully even after rebooting the PC. Still couldn't get it to come up Edge, IE. It doesn't show up as a device on the network (I have only one) but Windows 10 is screwy about this. The ISY shows up sometimes and sometimes not. Tried Windows button +R with the static address...bingo it comes up in Edge. I'm happy its working but will have to leave it to others to explain the behavior. UDI is a great company and I'm happy to support them...always responsive and the ISY is an extraordinarily useful, stable device that I've had for years.

My observations in trying this out: As noted light or lights in a device name is problematic. Two words work sometimes (living room for example) but one word works more reliably. I have not been able to get any three word names to work. Voice training definitely helped with recognition. Sometimes the skill appears to stop recognizing a previously recognized device. When I then ask alexa to open izzy, it can then recognize the device again.