SteveL

Doing some consulting. Teaching at Orange Coast College also.

For those interested I am going to be doing an online class with the Polisy / ISY and the Camect Hub. Jimbo wrote a node for the Polisy that lets you use camera analytic input to trigger things in the ISY. I will be using this to demonstrate the integration process of the components and show some of the things that can be accomplished. Example: If Camect sees a Bear outside turn a Philips Hue Bulb Red or if a camera sees a person in a room turn the light on. You can register Here Steve.

KHouse, V 2.1 is the current shipping version.

There are some issues with the link above. Here is another link. https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=nE6FN4W3eSo

I spoke with Chris this morning and gave him a few things to try. One of them was to remove each bulb and then introduce a bulb one at a time to see if any one bulb is causing the issue for the entire load. Since the loads were working on the keypad for the previous six months my feeling is one of the bulbs is causing the misfiring of the others.

Here is a link to a video on the Amazon Echo / ISY 994i Integration. This is just a first pass at an instructional video for the setup. UDI will work on future updates to this integration in the coming year. As always please contact our support department at support@universal-devices.com if you have any questions. https://youtu.be/_3rx861eT_M

Techman, The ISY will show the Enery Display when you try to add it but it is not supported. You can however add the iMeter Solo and monitor the current draw. One note: the iMeter Solo does not handle inrush very well. I had one on an evaporative cooler and at high speed when you turn the load on it will blow out the IMeter Solo. My evaporative cooler has a 1/2 horse motor.

rayzor, It sounds like the I/O Linc might be right on the edge of consistent communication. You can try to open the Event Viewer in the Admin Console and set it to Level 3. Now query the I/O Linc and see how many hops away it is. If it says 0 hops remaining then all it takes is a little noise and the I/O Linc may not get the signal back to the PLM. Since the I/O Linc is a signal band device you are limited to the powerline only. Sometimes plugging a Range Extender into the pass through outlet of the I/O Linc can help with signal propagation.

jkraus, Before I would change the keypad I would do a factory reset on it, delete it from the ISY and add it back in. Then put the "A' button back into the scene and try it. You can also open the event viewer and set it to level 3. Tools > Diagnostics > Event Viewer When you push the "A" button you should see traffic in the viewer. If you do and the scene still doesn't work then please be kind enough to send a support request to support@universal-devices.com and we can login to your computer and take a look.

rossarmstrong, Please feel free to contact our support department if you have any other issue that you may need support for. support@universal-devices.com We also have webinars that we do twice a month that you may find helpful. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/13444-isy-994i-series-webinar-schedule/

This link. http://isy.universal-devices.com/994i/4.2.23/admin.jnlp

Glad to be of help.

This post was meant to provide some basic steps to uncover noise on the powerline. If anyone wants to contact me directly you can do so at steve@universal-devices.com I would be happy to talk to any of you on the phone about the nuances of the INSTEON engine.

Bert2013, Eventhough allot of INSTEON devices are dual band there is only one base engine in the product. The RF still has to work with the powerline and the powerline with the RF. If you have noise on the powerline the RF is not going to save you in all cases. The best part of the dual band is having an RF receiving point for devices like the thermostat and remotelinc 2. It also is great for bridging the phases. If you took the powerline out of the product you would see how challenged most installations would become. Noise on the powerline does just that.

Our support department gets a fair amount of calls with question on INSTEON signal troubleshooting. The problems that the customers are experiencing are related to noise on the powerline and not an issue with the ISY. I wanted to provide a few points that you may find helpful in troubleshooting communication issues to your INSTEON devices from the ISY. We tend to look to noise at the culprit when things start to become intermittent with device communication. Example: Today 3 or my 5 devices turned on in a scene but yesterday everything worked fine. Tools to look for noise. 1) Place an INSTEON keypad in link mode and watch the flashing cadence. It should flash on and off about every second. When noise is present the flash cadence will be all over the place. It might flicker instead of flash and it might stay off to 5 or 10 seconds at a time then flash fast. (to put a keypad in link mode you just press and hold the set button in for 5 seconds) 2) Some INSTEON devices actually have a function called flash on traffic. This will cause the LED on the device to flash when it see powerline traffic and in some cases it can show noise also. 3) Query a device in the ISY and it should query very fast. If it takes 20 seconds (it should take a second or two) then you may have noise of phase bridging issues. What to do to identify Noise. 1) I find the easiest way to get to the bottom of the cause is to look for the idenitifier like the flashing on the keypad then go to the breaker panel and turn off the first breaker. Look to see if the flashing goes back to normal. If not then turn that breaker on and turn off the next. Keep doing it until the keypad flashes at a normal cadence. Note: Try not to switch the breaker that controls the keypad you are watching. If you go through all of the breakers and you have found the cause then it may be the circuit the keypad is on. In this case you unplug any device plugged into that circuit and see if one of the plug in loads is the cause. Once you find it you can simply buy a plug in filter and filter that device. In closing, there doesn’t have to be a device that you just added that causes the problem. It could be a device you have had for years and one day it starts to throw noise on the powerline. I had a customer that had a Sonic Care tooth brush and then the brush was in the charger it destroyed communication to 120 switches in his house. This is just one example and there are other stories like this with simple plugin loads that start to produce noise on their own. Please visit our Webinar page if you are interested in any of our training classes. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/13444-isy-994i-series-webinar-schedule/ If you continue to have issues please contact our support department at support@universal-devices.com.

50-50, I am going to be calling you shortly.

sandpiper, This may be something you might want to contact me directly about. support@universal-devices.com Here are some options. With the ISY you can add your devices into the system and choose to keep the existing link relationships. Since you have what I would consider a small about of devices and programming needs I would just add the devices into the ISY and choose to remove existing links. This way you do not pull in any link problems that may have existed previously. Venstar makes a thermostat that supports heat pumps and can connect with the INSTEON wireless communication adapter. As far as sensors you can purchase an INSTEON I/O Linc and connect a temp value sensor (two wire sensor set to close at a particular value) to it for alerts. This way the sensor is connected to the powerline and you can get the signal a greater distance. Please feel free to contact me and I can go into greater detail with some options.

EricK, The full 2477d INSTEON dimmer switch is currently $38.49. It is higher wattage then the icon switches.

swbrains, One test is to unplug the PLM for a day and see if the outletlinc comes on by itself. From what you described it sounds to be location specific since the problem didn't travel with the device when you swapped it with another device from a different location. Please feel free to contact me if you want to go over this on the phone. Support@universal-devices.com

dbuss, Once again this would not considered an approved installation for that product based on your description. It isn't meant to be installed in a unit where you need to wire around a pre-existing speed controller. Since this is not our product I can only offer a suggestion. If you are committed to work with that fan then you will need to connect the Fan Leg of the triggerlinc it to the High Speed winding of the fan..

dbuss, In most cases you have to strip out all of the control to the bare minimum. A set of common and hot wires to the light and a set of common and hot wires to the fan. If the fan is a multi tapped motor with a separate wire for each speed then you need to connect the fanlinc to the high speed wire. All of this comes with no guarantee but it has been done before and it will be done by others again. the two common wires from the fan and light go together along with the white wire for the fanlinc and the neutral wire coming into the box. Then the fan wire of the fanlinc goes to the high speed winding wire off the fan or if it only has one hot wire to the fan than that one. The other wire left over from the fanlinc goes to the light.

dbuss, In most cases you have to strip out all of the control to the bare minimum. A set of common and hot wires to the light and a set of common and hot wires to the fan. If the fan is a multi tapped motor with a separate wire for each speed then you need to connect the fanlinc to the high speed wire. All of this comes with no guarantee but it has been done before and it will be done by others again. the two common wires from the fan and light go together along with the white wire for the fanlinc and the neutral wire coming into the box. Then the fan wire of the fanlinc goes to the high speed winding wire off the fan or if it only has one hot wire to the fan than that one. The other wire left over from the fanlinc goes to the light.

mzn50 If you are using the sense input on the I/O Linc to trigger off your camera then your camera might need to provide a dry set of contacts. If your camera trigger output already has a signal whether it is open or closed then you may not be allowing the I/O Linc sensor to show anything other than triggered. If you could run a 12V input through the contacts on the camera and have that output of the camera control a 12V relay, then the normally open contacts of the relay could be connected to the sensor of the I/O Linc. This is creating an isolation from any voltage on the camera contacts and the I/O Linc Please feel free to contact me at support@universal-devices.com if you want to discuss it.

Xlurkr, The beeper in the PLM is also imbedded in many INSTEON devices. INSTEON has / had a diagnostic keypad that would beep when you put it in a certain mode. I have also seen some of my switches go into flash on traffic mode by themselves. This is a rare occurrence but it does happen. Even though I have not seen this behavior with the PLM myself, it may be that it has turned on a hidden function of "beep on traffic". Just a guess. I might consider doing a factory reset on it and then restore PLM.

Mfbrin, Please feel free to send me an email at support@universal-devices.com and I can give you some one on one help. The thermostat itself can not be added to a scene but the cool and heat mode can. From what you described you want to just press and hold the set button on the Wireless thermostat until it beeps and the LED starts to flash on and off then press and hold the set button on the wired thermostat until you hear the double beep. After setting the wireless up as the master you then have the setup you want. It sound like you did this but maybe someone pressed the master button on the wired thermostat to put it back in Master mode. The ISY can create programs that say if the Wired thermostat is cooling then set the Wired thermostat to cool mode. You can do similar commands for Off and Heat but you may want to discuss this with us in a phone call so we can give you all of your options.