SteveL

JSP0511, Please feel free to send an email to support@universal-devices.com if you would like some one on one support. If you built all of your programming in the ISY then I would encourage you to restore your I/O Linc for the Garage Opener and restore the Keypad that you are using to control the opener. Right click on each device and choose restore device. If the restore fails then you may have noise that is preventing the communication between these devices.

wainert, Please send me an email to support@universal-devices.com if you would like some one on one support for this project. The simple setup is to set the I/O Linc in Momentary B. Have the normally open contacts connected to your garage opener control terminals. (The same two terminals that you wall mounted control contacts are connected to. When you use Mobilinc your I/O Linc will trigger the door opener if you use an On or Off command. If your door is Open it will Close if it is Closed it will Open with a control of the On or Off function from the Mobilinc App. Where are many options to use the sensor as well but I would encourage you to contact me if you have any other questions.

Jmed999, You can install a powered water valve on the incoming supply for your misting system and then use and I/O Linc to control the control voltage for the valve. The ISY can then control this buy adding time or temperature to the conditional if you like. http://www.smarthome.com/2450/IOLinc-INSTEON-Low-Voltage-Contact-Closure-Interface-1-In-1-Out-/p.aspx

Jam583, Based on Vivint's own statement about their products they say they are fully compatible with all Zwave products which should make them compatible with the 994i. Since we are still adding more and more support to our system with every update there may be various levels of support with some devices. If you do end up integrating your devices with the ISY we would love to hear how it went.

Htjunkie, Please make sure your Java is up to date. You may want to clear you Java cache history as we'll. Then use this link to access your admin console. http://isy.universal-devices.com/994i/4.2.2/admin.jnlp

djmoor, The basic concept of what you are trying to do seems to be something like this. If: Control of "Choose your Control" is Off Then: Turn off Heater I/O Linc then wait 20 min then turn off pool pump Please email me at support@universal-devices.com if you need further assistance.

Techman, I'm sure there are many ways to do this. One is to use a variable and have the sensor alternate its state from 0 to 1 to 0 and alternate each time the sensor it triggered. Then a program that closes the I/O linc on ) and open on 1. Please send me an email to support@universal-devices.com if you want further support.

pauliep, Are the three devices in the scene in Red? You can always manually link it to the "A" buttons of the keypads.

pauliep, You need to link the 30a load controller back to each of the keypad buttons. If you do this in the ISY then the two buttons and 30a controller are all put into a scene and made controllers of each other.

Boser, Would you have time to discuss your question in a phone call? Please send an email to support@universal-devices.com with a number I can contact you at. Here are a few points though: typically you will trigger the timer program for the light to turn off by status if a timed event changes the status or sensor input and control if you manually turn it If you want the motion to trigger the light off if no motion for let's say 10 min but reset the counter to 10 min as long as there is motion seen any time within the time range then create two programs. One program is just the timer in the then statement. Call it light timer. Then: wait 10 min, then turn off light Next program uses the sensor status to trigger the If statement and the Then: runs the program "light timer" Then statement.

Jrd, Since the 2450 is a single band device you will want to see that you palm is on the same phase as the 2450 or that you have a dual band device installed on the opposite phase from your plm. Feel free to contact support at support@universal-devices.com if you require further help.

Marvel, One thing I didn't see and maybe I missed it in some of the responses was the restore of the PLM was done. I did see your trouble ticket and I will be contacting you today.

Tyler, There are options to use telnet to check setting that may effect the ability to save your backup. I have found on numerous occasions that simply changing the save to location has fixed the issue. Please feel free to email me at support@universal-devices.com if you continue to have an issue.

Woods, I have personally done some very large homes and projects with INSTEON. One of the biggest home projects I did was a home in aspen with 800 switches and 4 ISY's. This said you have to have experience with systems like this to make them bulletproof or as close as you can to bulletproof. If the contractor is going to be responsible for it then you are stuck with letting him put in what he knows. Homeworks is very good but not bulletproof. I would be happy to speak with you if you have additional questions.

nytetyme1976, A 50' should be able to work for the PLM cable. This only comes from some applications where I have installed it on a 50" cable for trade shows. The spec on it is a little different. It is suggested a 10' max and 6' is recommend for the product.

I had head that non-toggle off functions in the new keypad wheel were going to be deleted or have been deleted as an option with manual linking. It actually looks like the wheel has changed back to the way it use to be where you put the button in off or on mode and follow it with the three second presses of the set button. I was able to get a button to instantly send an on command with out blinking and the default of flashing three times. The flashing is so the user knows that the keypad is doing something. It does look like the non-toggle off do send On commands to the button of its own keypad. It will turn off buttons on another keypad but appears to be a bug in the keypad that it turns on the keypad buttons of its own keypad. I will let QC at Smarthome know. regards,

smokegrub, What device are you trying to learn into the ISY? Is it the 2412N? Please some details on the device that is giving you trouble and I will try to help you out. You can email me directly at support@universal-devices.com Steve L Universal Devices Tech Support

This is a followup to my earlier email about the reported automatic switching of the thermostat to "Energy Mode" Our QC team has been working to try to recreate this without sucess. That particular mode can be triggered by a direct command and can restore that state if it was linked to anything while in "Energy Mode". We haven't been able to recreate this but there is theoretical evidence that it might be possible when the compressor kicks on and the power supply for the thermostat dips to a low voltage during the inrush of the compressor. This would not happen in every case but only transformers less than 1 amp @ 24V. We are basically looking for installs that cause your lights to dim everytime your AC kicks on. The thermostat will also go into "Energy Mode" if it were ever linked to anything while in that mose and then that device is turned on. Steve L INSTEON We are going to continue to look into this but I wanted to pass on the information we had.

I can tell you that my experience with the 2441TH has not resulted in the thermostat changing modes or going into energy mode. I have had the same one in for 5 months not and I have tested two others in one other location. There was an issue with the temp being off by a couple of degrees based on the placement of the thermistor. This issue has been fixed. I'm not suggesting that it isn't happening to others but it is not systemic to all of the thermostats from what I see. We have 26 of them in our building and they do not exhibit this behavior. I will have our QC manger take another look at this. Regards, Steve Lee INSTEON

Lets work it this way. Anyone else who wants to contact me can just sen an email to info@insteon.net. You can explain your situation and let me know your device type, rev number and when you bought it. Feel free to share our discussion and results with the board. I will not be able to respond as quick to post on the board as an email. I travel most of the time for the company and email is the best way for me to get things done. Regards, Steve L Smartlabs. PS: mvprj84, if you want to send me a PM with your phone number i can contact you this weekend or early next week.

If anyone would like to contact me with problems they are having regarding the I/O Linc, then feel free to do so. I have been passing along any issues that I have seen in the posts to our team. Regards, Steve L Smartlabs

Illusion, This is a copy of the post I made on the smarthome forum. Good stuff. There was a lot of thought put into when the motion wakes up and when power is used and conserved, but we are always interested in information like this. A second pair of eyes is always a good thing. I have passed your findings on to our CTO and our engineering team. Thanks, Steve L Smartlabs

With the PLM plugged into the wall, do you see a light on it? If so do you see any flashing on it if you were to go to a scene button on a keypad and push the button. It would have to be something that is linked to something else in order to see the flashing. Steve L Smarthome

Your yellow wire should be connected to the wire that comes from the motion detector that powers the flood lights. You break the connection and hook your red wire of the in-line to the floods and they yellow to the other wire that was connected to the floods comming from the motion. I have mine set up this way and it workss fine. How is your connected. Steve L Smarthome

Let me know if you have any issues. Steve L Smarthome