220 / 240 Load Controller - How is the reliability now?

[Teken]

I have two friends who have been considering this device: http://www.smarthome.com/2477SA1/INSTEO ... and/p.aspx Historically, this device has shown to have a short service life. I have not seen any further reviews or feed back about this device for more than a year.

 

So am wondering if its worth taking a chance on this unit? If anyone has purchased one in the last year or so would you mind providing some feed back about the reliability etc.

 

Teken . . .

[whywork]

Hi,

 

OK, I think?

 

I am on my third 220/240 Load controller. I use it to control a 50 gallon hot water heater (approx 17 amps). First two versions were 1.0 and died in less than a year each. Replaced under warranty.

 

The one I have now is version 1.1 and still going after 18 months.

 

Good luck!

[Teken]

Hi,

 

OK, I think?

 

I am on my third 220/240 Load controller. I use it to control a 50 gallon hot water heater (approx 17 amps). First two versions were 1.0 and died in less than a year each. Replaced under warranty.

 

The one I have now is version 1.1 and still going after 18 months.

 

Good luck!

 

Thanks for the reply and feed back! Anyone else?

 

Teken . . .

[bsobel]

So I had a need to move high current AC (and in one case DC but thats another story) current between two meters and I wound up getting a Powermax 50amp transfer switch (one of 3 solar systems needed to be put on one meter or another as the property has two meters so this lets me balance the solar output based on usage across both meters). They are high amperage transfer switches designed to move a load between say shore power and generator for a boat. Tend to run about $100. If you take out the controller board its trivial to use a micro on/off to control the relay. In your case one mode would complete the circuit the other would open it (you wouldn't switch the feed between two loads, just use the relay to cause on/off). These things are pretty much bullet proof IMHO and if you ever change tech (Zwave, etc) any 110v controller can be used to replace the micro on/off down the road.

[Teken]

So I had a need to move high current AC (and in one case DC but thats another story) current between two meters and I wound up getting a Powermax 50amp transfer switch (one of 3 solar systems needed to be put on one meter or another as the property has two meters so this lets me balance the solar output based on usage across both meters). They are high amperage transfer switches designed to move a load between say shore power and generator for a boat. Tend to run about $100. If you take out the controller board its trivial to use a micro on/off to control the relay. In your case one mode would complete the circuit the other would open it (you wouldn't switch the feed between two loads, just use the relay to cause on/off). These things are pretty much bullet proof IMHO and if you ever change tech (Zwave, etc) any 110v controller can be used to replace the micro on/off down the road.

 

I think that is a great alternative. Thanks for the idea and guidance!

 

Teken . . .

[Buzzhazz]

Hi all

 

I'll ressurect this old thread.  I am using a 2477SA1 Load Controller to control my pool pump.  The controller is in a shed protected from weather and it generally does not get that hot in the shed.  Still, my controller periodically cycles on and off, and based on the reviews I have read, the common cause appears to be heat related.  I have not yet opened up the unit to look for signs of heat distress, but that's the answer that makes the most sense so far. 

 

My unit is still under warranty I believe, so I may switch it out, but I expect the same failure to occur.  Since it is protected from the weather, I may vent the box with a louver vent, though I suspect that may be against code and would certainly void the SH warranty.

 

Instead, I may use a Fasco H230B Definite Purpose Contactor and a 2477S switch to activate its coil.  It's a little more work, but I used that setup to power a 2hp dust collector in my workshop, and I have never had a problem with it.

[Teken]

Hi all

 

I'll ressurect this old thread.  I am using a 2477SA1 Load Controller to control my pool pump.  The controller is in a shed protected from weather and it generally does not get that hot in the shed.  Still, my controller periodically cycles on and off, and based on the reviews I have read, the common cause appears to be heat related.  I have not yet opened up the unit to look for signs of heat distress, but that's the answer that makes the most sense so far. 

 

My unit is still under warranty I believe, so I may switch it out, but I expect the same failure to occur.  Since it is protected from the weather, I may vent the box with a louver vent, though I suspect that may be against code and would certainly void the SH warranty.

 

Instead, I may use a Fasco H230B Definite Purpose Contactor and a 2477S switch to activate its coil.  It's a little more work, but I used that setup to power a 2hp dust collector in my workshop, and I have never had a problem with it.

 

I believe going the route using the DPC is the correct path to follow when switching large current devices such as a pool pump, HWT, etc.

 

The inrush current along with contact arching was obviously not considered in this 240 load controller. I've not installed the two NOS units I picked up last year to control my HWT. As I was asked to participate in a Beta program that can control the power to the HWT along with providing water usage, temperature, and leak detection.

 

All of this also bundled with graphing / charting software to know the daily, weekly, monthly, yearly consumption. Just in case anyone is following this thread it should be stated for what ever reason the N.O. unit vs the N.C. unit are the same just wired differently on their terminals.

 

But it should also be known for what ever reason the hardware for the N.O. unit seems to be updated and the other is not? This can be seen by the hardware revision number that has increased over the years. Going off memory (I could be wrong) I believe its now at hardware rev 1.6.

 

Whereas the N.C. Load Controller has remained at the same Rev 1.0 / 1.1?

 

I am unsure why this would be other than it doesn't sell so they simply leave the old units on the shelf and let them sit until sold. I don't understand why anyone would do that knowing the current hardware is suspect-able to faults and early failures??

 

Then again this sort of mentality does not surprise me given the history with Smarthome . . . 

[ppitkin]

I've been Using these devices for years now without problems. Ca 18 months ago I upgraded to the new dual band versions as the old version needed an IOlink to switch it as I didn't want to use X10. Worked fine but the new devices are a much neater solution. I have three devices controlling my 3 hot water tanks in my holiday chalet. The three tanks are plumbed in series and so I can remotely turn on just the right number of tanks to supply the necessary hot water depending on the number of guests staying in the chalet at any point in time.

[Teken]

I've been Using these devices for years now without problems. Ca 18 months ago I upgraded to the new dual band versions as the old version needed an IOlink to switch it as I didn't want to use X10. Worked fine but the new devices are a much neater solution. I have three devices controlling my 3 hot water tanks in my holiday chalet. The three tanks are plumbed in series and so I can remotely turn on just the right number of tanks to supply the necessary hot water depending on the number of guests staying in the chalet at any point in time.

 

You wouldn't happen to know what hardware rev on those units would you?

[larryllix]

I believe going the route using the DPC is the correct path to follow when switching large current devices such as a pool pump, HWT, etc.

 

The inrush current along with contact arching was obviously not considered in this 240 load controller. I've not installed the two NOS units I picked up last year to control my HWT. As I was asked to participate in a Beta program that can control the power to the HWT along with providing water usage, temperature, and leak detection.

 

All of this also bundled with graphing / charting software to know the daily, weekly, monthly, yearly consumption. Just in case anyone is following this thread it should be stated for what ever reason the N.O. unit vs the N.C. unit are the same just wired differently on their terminals.

 

But it should also be known for what ever reason the hardware for the N.O. unit seems to be updated and the other is not? This can be seen by the hardware revision number that has increased over the years. Going off memory (I could be wrong) I believe its now at hardware rev 1.6.

 

Whereas the N.C. Load Controller has remained at the same Rev 1.0 / 1.1?

 

I am unsure why this would be other than it doesn't sell so they simply leave the old units on the shelf and let them sit until sold. I don't understand why anyone would do that knowing the current hardware is suspect-able to faults and early failures??

 

Then again this sort of mentality does not surprise me given the history with Smarthome . . .

I have never seen a power device that didn't have a HP rating on the contacts before. This raises suspicions from me.

 

I would be leery of using this device on an inductive load at all. Even the 30A rating should have "resistive loads only" on the rating.

 

I believe one of the posters in your pics began exposing it burned up on his pool pump. 20A 240v DWH...sure.

 

I have an old X10 Appliance plug-in running a 60A mercury-wetted relay for my shop dust collector with a 1.5 hp with lots of MOVs slapped on the coil. Turns out X10 never had a unit that could handle an inductive load.

[Teken]

Yes, neither of the online spec or full users manual indicate restive loads. Then again does it really matter what they place on paper when the actual design and components are sub par??

 

My analogy is like those so called lifetime warranties . . .

 

Is that the lifetime of the product cycle, lifetime of the person, lifetime of that specific unit in manufacture etc. Never mind the small print they all make you jump through to get the so called lifetime warranty which is only as good as the person backing said warranty.

[larryllix]

Yes, neither of the online spec or full users manual indicate restive loads. Then again does it really matter what they place on paper when the actual design and components are sub par??

 

My analogy is like those so called lifetime warranties . . .

 

Is that the lifetime of the product cycle, lifetime of the person, lifetime of that specific unit in manufacture etc. Never mind the small print they all make you jump through to get the so called lifetime warranty which is only as good as the person backing said warranty.

"Lifetime" warranty means that when it burns out it's lifetime is over and so is it's warranty. OTOH if it burns out before it's lifetime you obviously abused it as it normally would have lasted a lifetime.

[Teken]

"Lifetime" warranty means that when it burns out it's lifetime is over and so is it's warranty. OTOH if it burns out before it's lifetime you obviously abused it as it normally would have lasted a lifetime.

LMAO Well played . . . ️

 

 

Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

[io_guy]

I use an Aube relay with built-in LV transformer powered by an IOLinc. Works great.

[Brian H]

I have some Switch Lighting LED bulbs. They have a lifetime warranty.

Switch folded and the warranty isn't worth the small piece of paper it was printed on.