C Martin Posted June 9, 2008 Posted June 9, 2008 One of the problems that I have in my house is the table lamp and how to make it convenient to switch them off and on while using a lamplinc module. It is hard for people to change the status of a lamp without going back to the computer all of the time. I use to use an X10 remote, but that can get lost and be a pain to use for non-home automation type people. My Solution: Smarthome sells a Table type housing for the KPL switch( SmartHome # 2402WH or BK). You can fit a Smartlinc Dimmer or relay switch (for CFL's) in there a make a nifty table lamp switch that doesn't look too bad. Instead of using just the wire with the 110 plug, you need to add a wire with a single socket on the load side of the switchLinc and now you have a table lamp controller that is still automatically controlled by your ISY, but also has a manual control right at the lamp. My wife took to it really easy. By the way, you now don't need to worry about someone plugging a vacuum cleaner or something else into you Lamplinc module any more. This eliminates the LampLinc completely. I am making several more of these. Enjoy! Clarence Martin
Algorithm Posted June 9, 2008 Posted June 9, 2008 Hi Clarence, That's a super idea! That way, you can locally brighten and dim the lamp, as well as turn it on and off. Thanks for sharing. You could also place a KeypadLinc within the enclosure, giving you on/off/bright/dim control not only of the local lamp that is plugged into it, but also up four or seven other devices or scenes. That would be useful in locations with several lamps, for example.
DaveGee Posted June 25, 2008 Posted June 25, 2008 I'm not sure I understand... Are you modifying the 2402WH by adding a built-in outlet that the table lamp would plug into? If so I'd love to see some photos since this sounds like the type of thing I'm looking for as well... Local control for the table lamp when a spouse is involved can be a HUGE P.I.T.A. ... Dave
Guest Posted June 25, 2008 Posted June 25, 2008 No, if I understand right, he's not saying to "modify" the 2402WH in any way other than to add an extra wire on the inside for the connection (but please tell me if I'm wrong). The lamplinc plugs into your wall outlet. The lamplinc box has two outlets - one on the bottom for the lamp to be controlled, and another that is a pass-thru plug (to keep spouses from complaining that these boxes take up all their outlets). Since (I guess) there are some things you don't want to have plugged into the pass-thru, he's saying to plug in a 2402WH desktop switchbox (with a regular switchlinc in it instead of a full keypadlinc it's promoted with) into the passthru outlet on the lamplinc, so that 1) it uses up the passthru so something can't be plugged into it that would damage the lamplinc (this is just a bonus) and 2) it would provide a fairly obvious means of turning the lamp on/off with a simple switch that everyone is used to seeing. I'm considering adding some Insteon devices into my bedroom as a start, and this would work well for my situation. I do have one question for C Martin (or anybody) - please explain what wire you are adding when installing a regular Switchlinc into the desktop box that isn't there when you are installing a keypadlinc into it?
DaveGee Posted June 25, 2008 Posted June 25, 2008 I think you may have missed this part of his message.... This eliminates the LampLinc completely. You see I have found a flaw (long time flaw but new to me) that make it totally unacceptable for use in my automated home... In short: If you connect a lamplinc to a lamp and then use the lamps on switch a few times the lamplinc will turn on the lamp **but** here is the kicker... It will not notify the rest of the insteon network that the lamp (aka the lamplinc) state has changed from off to on. This same behavior happens with ApplianceLincs.... I can't believe they continue to sell them as viable INSTEON devices when they exhibit such behavior. Any device that changes its state and then doesn't bother to notify the network is less than useless to me I can buy much cheaper X10 junk that does that. Heck, I might as well not have the device INSTEON enabled to begin with - okay that might be going a bit far but not by much... Dave
Algorithm Posted June 25, 2008 Posted June 25, 2008 ozone, I do believe Clarence was suggesting adding a socket to the table-top enclosure, and that will work fine. However, your solution would work equally as well, whether with a SwitchLinc or KeypadLinc in the enclosure, and would not require modifying the enclosure in any way. But you would need to link the enclosed switch to the lamp module of course. While your solution does not eliminate the lamp module, it also does not require local control of that module via the lamp's own switch. Dave, Yes, I agree completely with your assessment of a two-way device with local control, which does not report its control! Do we dare hope that Smarthome may eventually address that shortcoming?
Guest Posted June 25, 2008 Posted June 25, 2008 I think you may have missed this part of his message.... This eliminates the LampLinc completely. Yeah, I did...sorry.
d_l Posted June 25, 2008 Posted June 25, 2008 Dave, X10 signaling CAN be enabled by local control switching on the Lamplincs and Appliancelincs. So the device that is switched on locally would signal your PL network with an X10 address of your choosing that it is indeed on. Your ISY would then have to be programmed to interpret and track that status of that Insteon device. I'm not saying this is easy or convenient, just possible. Most people end up disabling the local control and/or the X10 address control on these devices.
DaveGee Posted June 25, 2008 Posted June 25, 2008 Dave, X10 signaling CAN be enabled by local control switching on the Lamplincs and Appliancelincs. So the device that is switched on locally would signal your PL network with an X10 address of your choosing that it is indeed on. Your ISY would then have to be programmed to interpret and track that status of that Insteon device. I'm not saying this is easy or convenient, just possible. Most people end up disabling the local control and/or the X10 address control on these devices. Dave, (quite a classy name!) Very interesting information indeed... and it will come in quite helpful but its just that much more of a kick in the head to those of us who put our faith behind INSTEON isn't it? After all... oh to get it to do the RIGHT THING you have use the fall back X10 support for that... is that classic or what. But again the info you provided will certainly come in handy for quick and dirty workarounds to this problem. Dave
C Martin Posted June 26, 2008 Author Posted June 26, 2008 this requires two cords. One for the power with a plug (they supply that) and one for a socket. The socket connects to the load side of the SwitchLinc. I use a cord that is about 4 feet long so the lamp plugs into it under the table rather than on top of the table ( sort of hidden this way). The ideal situation is to buy an extension cord that is about 9 feet long and cutting it into two sections. I use the longer section for the plug end and the shorter section for the lamp plug socket. I will try to provide pictures. And yes, you leave the lamp switch turned on and use the LampLinc either remotely or manually.
Guest Posted June 26, 2008 Posted June 26, 2008 If possible, pictures would be excellent! I'm especially interested in how the two cords fit into the casing, and how that looks. I really like this idea, since I'm going to want a local switch by my bed anyway (in addition to controlling it from the KPL in the wall), and this eliminates the bulky wall wart of the LampLinc!
Algorithm Posted June 27, 2008 Posted June 27, 2008 Here's another idea posted by user dBeau on cocoontech.com: use a single-gang box and install a regular outlet into it. Use an attractive three-conductor extension cord in a colour that matches your table-top enclosure (white/black). Cut the female end off the cord and discard. Cut the remaining cord into two sections, the shorter section having the plug on it. Wire the short (plug) section of the cord into the gang box, and the longer section of the cord from the gang box to the table-top enclosure, so the SwitchLinc/KeypadLinc load controls the outlet. This way, the table-top enclosure still has only one cord leaving it, rather than two, and there should be no problem with the strain-relief grommet. dBeau provided a picture; the thread is at Hardwired lighting control and desk lamps, free-standing lamps, plug-in lamps and it is post #5.
Sub-Routine Posted June 28, 2008 Posted June 28, 2008 If you want to use a three wire cord you could locate the switch and the outlet anywhere along the cord you want. Neutral shared. Hot to switch. Load to outlet. Rand
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