pbako Posted March 12, 2014 Posted March 12, 2014 I noticed that after adding one of my devices to the ISY, it put a .1 after the unit's serial number. Specifically the serial number is 29.F5.81, but shows up as 29.F5.81.1! Is there a reason for that? For what its worth the device is working fine but I'm curious why the ISY did that, and why it has not done that with any other devices I have... Thanks!
Xathros Posted March 12, 2014 Posted March 12, 2014 That is the node number. Many devices such as a dimmer or on/off switch only have one node. Others like Keypads and Motion Sensors have multiple nodes (Motion, Dusk/Dawn, Low Batt for MS or Keys 1-8 for a keypad). That last digit identifies the node within the device. -Xathros
pbako Posted March 15, 2014 Author Posted March 15, 2014 Hum, ok that makes sense - and frankly I should have thought of that as well... However, the particular device happens to be a simple toggle switch, specifically 2466S. In fact I have another identical switch, but that never shows up this additional node information. The only reason I am "worried" about this, is that this particular switch is giving me some issues. I have moved it twice now, but in all locations it works great when getting an On signal, but always fails when I try to send it an Off signal! Since presumably the communications path should be the same for either and On or and Off command, it is quite odd that only one ever works consistently. Is this kind of behavior normal for when a device is failing?
LeeG Posted March 16, 2014 Posted March 16, 2014 A device that will consistently turn On and consistently has issues turning Off is often related to the load the device is controlling. The load generates noise/attenuation that interfers with receiving the Off command. I believe all the Insteon devices have nolde .1 Many have more than that single node but they all have node .1
pbako Posted March 16, 2014 Author Posted March 16, 2014 No way it's the load. It's connected to two light fixtures by my front door. Each fixture has three CFL bulbs in it, each rated around 7 watts. No way that 42 watts is overloading this switch!
LeeG Posted March 16, 2014 Posted March 16, 2014 It is not a question of overload. Some CFLs generate enough interference when powered that an Off command is not functional. Insert incandescent bulbs as a test.
Brian H Posted March 16, 2014 Posted March 16, 2014 As pointed out. Yes it could be the load. I have a few model CFLs and LED bulbs that are either power line noise makers or are a good signal sucker when On.
pbako Posted March 17, 2014 Author Posted March 17, 2014 Ah, when you talked about the load being the issue, I took that literally - thinking it was the amount of power, not thinking of the noise the bulbs can generate. I will test it with some incandescent bulbs (assuming I can find a few left in the house ), but it will have to wait a few days, as I'm about to go in for surgery and will be recovering for at least next few days to week. However, thinking about the issue - if the problem is the signal getting through the AC lines, then wouldn't another solution be to change this switch out to a proper dual-mode Insteon switch? That way if the AC signals do not make it through, they should through the wireless signalling?
shannong Posted March 18, 2014 Posted March 18, 2014 You could certainly test for that and it might help. In my experience it hasn't. I have over a hundred dual-band nodes in my house and until I cleaned the powerline signal suckers and noise makers I did not have reliable communications even though every room has multiple dual-band devices and the PLM is dual-band.
pbako Posted March 22, 2014 Author Posted March 22, 2014 What type of bulbs are the most noise generating out there? Are all CFL's created equal, or are some better than others?
Brian H Posted March 23, 2014 Posted March 23, 2014 All CFLs and LED bulbs are not the same. All of them are required to limit how much electronic noise they put back on the power lines. I am not sure if some of the lower cost one actually get the noise much lower than the allowed standard. How the manufacturer reduces the noise does it makes a difference. Simply a capacitor across the power input will stop the noise but it also absorbs X10 and Insteon power line signals. By adding one coil to the line wire before the capacitor usually allows the internal noise to be stopped while the X10 and Insteon signals are not effected greatly. I have disassembled some dead CFLs and some manufacturers had the coil on the line wire and many didn't.
khisanthax Posted October 25, 2014 Posted October 25, 2014 You could certainly test for that and it might help. In my experience it hasn't. I have over a hundred dual-band nodes in my house and until I cleaned the powerline signal suckers and noise makers I did not have reliable communications even though every room has multiple dual-band devices and the PLM is dual-band. I'm curious, how did you clean up your system with that many nodes??
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