IOLinc Garage kit not opening/closing Chamberlain door

[Shelby4130]

Hello all! This might be my first time posting, but I've been a long time lurker! Anyway, I've recently installed a new Chamberlan WD832KEV garage door opener, and the IOLInc Garage Door Kit to go with it. This is using the small gray magnetic contact sensor from the current kits. The install process went smoothly as far as I can tell, but I have yet to be able to actually make the door open or close from any source. I understand that there are quite a few existing threads about this same topic, and I've ready through many, but so many of the settings seem different, and even when I find one nearly identical to mine, still no dice. I don't think I fully understand how this is supposed to be set up, or if I'm just missing some sort of conflict in the programming. So, here's how I have it.....

 

Scene: GarageDoorOpen_Relay

---Relay as responder (set to %100)

---KPL button as controller

Scene: GarareDoorButton

---Sensor as controller

---KPL button as responder

 

The sensor works perfectly fine, as do the KPL buttons as far as reporting the status of the door. I currently have the trigger reversed so that is reports ON when sensor is open, and OFF when closed (did this so it matches HiddenDoorSensor which behaves the same way). The green LED on the IOLinc changes as the sensor state changes as well. It's set to "Momentary A" at the moment, as this is what seems to work for most, but this is also the part that I understand the least. Everything else is set to a default. Oh, and the IOLinc is wired to the garage door using the N/C and Comm terminals. And, I wasn't sure if it mattered how those were wired to the opener, but it doesn't seem to matter either way, correct?

 

Now, the issue is that no matter how I go about it, I cannot get the IOLinc to open or close the door. If I tap the set button on the IOLiinc, there's a clicking sound, and it's clear that SOME signal made it to the garage door opener because the up button on the opener itself flashes, pauses, and then the down arrow begins to flash. It's as if something always stops the door and immediately commands it to then close the door. The garage door itself works fine otherwise, and all openers that came with it work as they should. This is where I'm stuck. I've factory reset the IOLinc after completely removing it from the ISY, and then added again and set it all up, but still the same thing persists.

 

Any ideas what I could be missing? Or, do I need to switch some wires around? Anything!?

 

Thanks in advance, y'all!

 

 

Michael

 

[LeeG]

The I/O Linc Relay connection should be Comm and NO.   Using Comm and NC is like pressing the button on the opener and holding it pressed.

 

If the relay is connected to the two wires going to a multi button opener, shorting out power when the relay is turned On usually does not open/close the door.   Either use a single button opener or go inside the multi button opener and connect the relay across the Open/Close button.

 

Momentary B is likely a better choice to start with.

[Shelby4130]

Thanks! I will try both of these. I had only kept the NC and Comm terminals the way they were in the box, and hadn't thought to change them, but I will now and report back....

[Shelby4130]

Alright, I moved the NC wire over to NO, and I still get the same behavior when clicking the set button on the IO Linc itself. However, the wall button that came with the opener no longer works. It's one button, red and white wires only. I had also set the ISY option to Momentary B. Turning the scene on from any other source (ISY, KPL, Mobilinc) just doesn't appear to do anything. Any other ides or suggestions?

[Brian H]

I found the manual for your opener.

 

It appears it has some intelligence in the controller. That maybe why a simple closure on the Red and White wires doesn't work correctly.

 

Can the controller do things like turning on the Light or have a Motion Sensor in it?

 

Are the Up and Down Arrows on the controller flashing any Diagnostic Codes?

[rrathke]

This might help.    http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/13802-insteon-garage-door-program-help/

[MWareman]

Yep. The MyQ openers will not work properly with an IOlinc connected directly to them. You need to crack a separate remote and wire the IOlinc to the button contacts in it. In the same boat myself.

[Shelby4130]

Great! It sounds like I need to open one of the wireless garage door openers and wire the IOLinc directly to it, and only it, correct? Everything else will be wired just as the garage door opener came? So, the IOLinc wont physically touch the opener at all, yes?

 

Brian: Yes, this is a MyQ opener that can be paired with an internet bridge, and yes, the button on the wall has both a motion sensor and the ability to control the light, but not much else that's fancy about it. I will have to look up the manual myself to see if there is an error code in that flashing, I hadn't even thought of that. It flashes once up, and then three times down, and then repeats. 

 

I will get back to work! Thanks again, y'all!

[oberkc]

Great! It sounds like I need to open one of the wireless garage door openers and wire the IOLinc directly to it, and only it, correct? Everything else will be wired just as the garage door opener came? So, the IOLinc wont physically touch the opener at all, yes?

 

I suspect this is your likely end state, yes. 

 

If you prefer an independent check, take a short piece of wire and quickly touch the to opener terminals together (simulating a momentary contact switch).  Does the door open or close?  If yes, then I would further consider the possibility that there is a problem in the configuration of your IOLinc or connections.  If no, then you will likely have to wire directly to the wall switch.

 

I don't know whether my chamberlain is a "myQ" system.  It does NOT connect to the internet, but it does have motion sensor and separate switches for the lights.  Yes, I can control the opener with an IOLinc connected to the opener, itself.

 

Also, when my opener lights flash, it is an indication that the safety sensors are not seeing each other.

[Shelby4130]

Okay, I think we're on the right track. I removed the IOLinc from the the opener and connected everything the way it should be, on the opener side, and it continues to work. I shorted the wires from the wall opener, and the door doesn't respond, so that sounds like a good thing, in that I do just need to wire into the wireless button.

 

And for what it's worth, I had looked up the error code displayed by the main opener, and it's as follows:

 

"The wires for the door control are shorted or the door control is faulty. Inspect safety sensor wire at all staple points and connection points and replace wire or correct as needed."

 

I wired the door control the way it should be and it works, so I think I can rule that out. Now, I was afraid that I may have stapled some a bit too tight with the safety sensors specifically, so should I check those first? The door still operates just fine if you press the up and down buttons at the opener itself, and the sensors work as they should if you step in front of them, so I had just ruled that out up until now, but should I be double checking those as well?

 

As for soldering the wireless button itself, I've opened the remote and of the three buttons present, not sure where I'm connecting the wires!

[rrathke]

Okay, I think we're on the right track. I removed the IOLinc from the the opener and connected everything the way it should be, on the opener side, and it continues to work. I shorted the wires from the wall opener, and the door doesn't respond, so that sounds like a good thing, in that I do just need to wire into the wireless button.

 

And for what it's worth, I had looked up the error code displayed by the main opener, and it's as follows:

 

"The wires for the door control are shorted or the door control is faulty. Inspect safety sensor wire at all staple points and connection points and replace wire or correct as needed."

 

I wired the door control the way it should be and it works, so I think I can rule that out. Now, I was afraid that I may have stapled some a bit too tight with the safety sensors specifically, so should I check those first? The door still operates just fine if you press the up and down buttons at the opener itself, and the sensors work as they should if you step in front of them, so I had just ruled that out up until now, but should I be double checking those as well?

 

As for soldering the wireless button itself, I've opened the remote and of the three buttons present, not sure where I'm connecting the wires!

Use the one under the button that you have programmed to operate the door. On mine there are 4 legs to the switch and only two of them have circuit board traces to them. These two are the one's I soldered a wire to. Be sure to use only rosin core solder. If you have a multi-meter you can test it out by putting the probes on the points and see if the continuity switches when you push the switch button.

[Shelby4130]

Brilliant! I see the two that I need to connect to, but will test them with a meter to be sure. All other items are a go, so I think I should have what I need! Of course, I will report back with my results, but I really do appreciate you folks' time! Thanks!

[Teken]

Brilliant! I see the two that I need to connect to, but will test them with a meter to be sure. All other items are a go, so I think I should have what I need! Of course, I will report back with my results, but I really do appreciate you folks' time! Thanks!

 

I would like to add if it was missed in this thread. If you directly wire the I/O link to the same wire pairs in (parallel) from the wall mounted GDO. 

 

This has worked for me and many others.

 

The advantage of doing it this way avoids you from soldering, modifying, an existing remote. You can't lose and its a quick test to the validity of the solution.

 

BTW: I have a Liftmaster 3800 which is exactly the same minus the Internet module and the newer controller on the wall.

[rrathke]

I would like to add if it was missed in this thread. If you directly wire the I/O link to the same wire pairs in (parallel) from the wall mounted GDO. 

 

This has worked for me and many others.

 

The advantage of doing it this way avoids you from soldering, modifying, an existing remote. You can't lose and its a quick test to the validity of the solution.

 

BTW: I have a Liftmaster 3800 which is exactly the same minus the Internet module and the newer controller on the wall.

That works unless you have a "Smart" wall mounted GDO. The wall mount GDO controller with a smart control, like this one and mine, use the pair of wires as a serial communications link with the control unit in the opener. Using a contact across these wires effectively shorts out the wires and ceases all communications as evidenced by the flashing light error codes received. If the GDO wall mount is a simple switch then the direct wiring works.

[MWareman]

My wall mounted switch displays the time and temperature on an LCD. Shorting the wires does not operate the door. I wired to a remote - but mine is hooked to an Elk M1 (just like its reliability better than the IOLinc).

[Teken]

I too have a LCD clock, temperature, and motion sensor wall mount controller. The parallel wiring is done at the motor GDO side not on the wall mount controller.

 

Apologies if that was not made clear the first go round.

 

 

Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

[Shelby4130]

Okay, folks! I soldered in two leads to the wireless button, and then connected those to NO and Comm, and everything appears to be working as it should! I had mentioned before that all scenes and KPL LEDs respond correctly, and that continues to be the case. 

 

Now, it's my understanding that any change to the relay, on or off, will simply make the garage door move like the button would, up or down depending on its previous command. I have two KPL buttons that read "Garage Open" and "Garage Closed", and they each light up based on the sensor status, but could I also set it so that each key specifically sends an UP or DOWN command? I suppose I would need to use a program and have it consider the current status of the sensor, correct? I currently have the Relay set to Momentary A, but I suspect that this is where that may play a larger role?

 

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, but again, I'm incredibly grateful of the excellent support this forum has already provided! Thanks!!

[Teken]

You would simply program the two keys to either send a ON / OFF command only to do what you wanted.

 

There are many who simply use one button to toggle between the two states which also reflects the true GDO state.

 

This saves on KPL buttons to be used on other Insteon related scenes.

 

 

Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

[rrathke]

As the I/O contact is Momentary on the I/O link just like pressing the button, the action will either open or close the door depending on it's state at the time of the action. If you want a open/close button you will have to have the program check the current state of the Door Closed contact closure to ensure it will perform the action expected. If you choose open/close buttons then you probably would want to write programs to turn the button lights on/off to visually indicate the current status of the door position.

 

I did not use any buttons in my installation to open/close the garage door, the installed button is convenient as we enter/exit the house. My system just keeps the door closed between sunset and sunrise year round and after one hour in the winter months. I don't know if you looked at my previous post, http://forum.univers...r-program-help/ , but that shows actual screen shots of the setup and programs that I am using successfully. As I only close the door from the ISY I have a program to close the door that first checks the status and only operates the relay if the door is open. If you were going to open the door from a KPL button you would also want a program to open the door that first checks the status for closed. 

 

Hope this helps