itsjustkevin Posted October 21, 2014 Posted October 21, 2014 Hello everyone, First problem: I have a number of dimmers and on/off switches installed and most of them work fine. However I have on 2477D switch that doesn't seem to be passing power to the LOAD. The LEDs on the dimmer light up when connected, and when I press ON, the LED chases up to the top of the switch like on my other dimmers, but the LOAD does not turn on. The light I'm controlling it a single incandescent bulb over my dining table. Is this a defective switch or is there something I can do to test it? Second problem: I have several KPL6's installed and they all work. One in particular seems to have failed in this way: I cannot control the LOAD anymore (3 x LED pot lights) using the ON/OFF buttons on the KPL, nor are any of the LEDs turning on. However, I had programmed previous to the LEDs and ON/OFF buttons failing that button A turns on both sets of pot lights (one set is the one connected to the LOAD on that KPL, and the second is another set of 3 LED pots connected to a different KPL6). ALSO, I am still able to use the A button on the "broken" KPL to control that scene on and off. Any suggestions to fixing the ON/OFF on that KPL and the LEDs? Thanks, Kevin
stusviews Posted October 21, 2014 Posted October 21, 2014 2477D: How did you determine which wire was the line and which was the load? KPL6: Can you control the load from the Admin Console?
itsjustkevin Posted October 22, 2014 Author Posted October 22, 2014 Update: 2477D: The LOAD is connected to the RED screw and the LINE is connected to the BLACK. Neutral is on the silver screw, and it's grounded to the box. KPL6 - I tried everything EXCEPT the following, which fixed the problem: I adjusted the LED Brightness via the web interface (defaults to 0 and 0, but that's the same reading I get from my other KPL6's that have LEDs lit. I changed the numbers to 7 and 7 and then the lights worked again. Stranger still, the ON/OFF started to work as well. I'm getting a bit frustrated by the odd programming glitches such as this that cause strange behaviours. Now I have an issue with a second KPL6. It is part of my kitchen lighting scene, let's call the now fixed KPL6 KIT_LEFT and this one KIT_RIGHT. KIT_RIGHT (A) is set as a controller for KIT_LEFT and KIT_RIGHT, set to toggle_on. Since I turned the power off to it several times on the weekend to test the 2477D it has stopped controlling that scene from button A, and ON/OFF does not respond (even though it's set as a responder to KIT_LEFT (A), KIT_RIGHT (A), as well as two other multi button remotes. (BTW, does turning off the circuit power to work on my electrical wiring do a factory reset to Insteon devices? The manuals say that creating the air gap using the set switch removes power, and then 10 seconds later that device is said to have been reset to factory defaults. However, my admin panel still recognizes the device by its hardware address and I didn't remove and add those devices back -- is that the problem?)
oberkc Posted October 22, 2014 Posted October 22, 2014 Cycling power does NOT cause a factory reset. One needs to depress the button on the device for a short period to reset it.
oberkc Posted October 22, 2014 Posted October 22, 2014 Choose the baulky device on the admin panel. Right click. Show device links table. Compare when done. If there are any mismatches, restore the device.
stusviews Posted October 22, 2014 Posted October 22, 2014 Update: 2477D: The LOAD is connected to the RED screw and the LINE is connected to the BLACK. Neutral is on the silver screw, and it's grounded to the box. The 2477D does not have screws for connections. It's a violation of the electrical code to use ground as a neutral.
itsjustkevin Posted October 24, 2014 Author Posted October 24, 2014 The 2477D does not have screws for connections. It's a violation of the electrical code to use ground as a neutral. Sorry for the confusion! I must have gotten mixed up with the switches I'm working with. I'm connecting the 2477D BLACK to LINE, WHITE to NEUTRAL, RED to LOAD, Ground to box ground, just like the other 2477Ds that I have connected.
stusviews Posted October 25, 2014 Posted October 25, 2014 (edited) So, your switch box (not the SwitchLinc) has black red and white wires? Other than ground. are there any other wires in that switch box? Edited October 25, 2014 by stusviews
itsjustkevin Posted October 25, 2014 Author Posted October 25, 2014 So, your switch box (not the SwitchLinc) has black red and white wires? Other than ground. are there any other wires in that switch box? The incoming (LINE) power is 14/2, so one black, one white and one ground. Then there is a wire going to my dining room light, also 14/2 (black, white, and ground). The LINE black goes to the switch black, the neutral wires (all white) are all connected, the black from the light is connected to the RED of the switch, and the ground wires are all connected. I have the switch added to the ISY admin console, and when I switch it on, either from the console or using the physical switch, the LED on the switch chases to the top and the console shows 100%, but there is no current flowing to my light.
stusviews Posted October 25, 2014 Posted October 25, 2014 How did you determine which 14/2 was the line and which 14/2 was the load?
itsjustkevin Posted October 25, 2014 Author Posted October 25, 2014 How did you determine which 14/2 was the line and which 14/2 was the load? The LINE also feeds another light, which works.
itsjustkevin Posted October 25, 2014 Author Posted October 25, 2014 Is there a fuse inside of the switch?
builderb Posted October 25, 2014 Posted October 25, 2014 (edited) Any chance of getting a meter on the load / line wires? It would seem to me that if you can test the load side and find power, but testing the line side shows no power upon switch activation, that you have a defective switch. Your wiring sounds like it should be working. Edited October 25, 2014 by builderb
itsjustkevin Posted October 25, 2014 Author Posted October 25, 2014 Any chance of getting a meter on the load / line wires? It would seem to me that if you can test the load side and find power, but testing the line side shows no power upon switch activation, that you have a defective switch. Your wiring sounds like it should be working. The LINE side shows 125V whether the switch is ON or OFF (obviously), and the LOAD side (red) shows 3.1V either in the ON or OFF position.
stusviews Posted October 25, 2014 Posted October 25, 2014 The LINE also feeds another light, which works. If you have only two 14/2 cables (i.e., line and load), then there is no other cable to feed another light.
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