dansarrosick Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 Sorry if I've missed this somewhere but have a quick question about using fluorescent tube bulbs with Insteon dimmers. I put a switch linc dimmer in yesterday which is controlling 8x of these Phillips 34w Linear Fouorescent bulbs: http://www.p4c.philips.com/cgi-bin/dcbint/cpindex.pl?slg=en&scy=us&ctn=046677205621 Lights work fine, no flicker, controlling them via ISY works fine etc. Only problem is that when they are on for a few hours the switch heats up a bit. Not too hot to touch at all but noticeably warmer than any other Insteon switch I have. The previous standard switch didn't get warm at all. I'm going to change all these lights to LED hi hats but for now am stuck with these. Are they ok to control with these switches? Why would the switches be warm? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian H Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 Is the Insteon switch a dimmer or relay type? What type of ballast is in the fixture you installed the Tubes in? I doubt the ballast either old type magnetic or modern electronic type. Are designed to be driven by a dimmer. If it is a dimmer. I would not keep it that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dansarrosick Posted August 16, 2015 Author Share Posted August 16, 2015 Will try and see if I can determine the ballast type. Even though they are dimmers I am not using the dimmer functionality, they are on 100%. If dimmers are no good would the on/off switch linc be ok? I dont need them to be dimmed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian H Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 Even at 100% On. There could be issues. Yes a Relay On/Off would be a much better choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryllix Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 I would not leave this that way very long. The ballasts may burn out in the fluorescents and/or take your dimmer switch with it. If you intend to replace them shortly I would leave the dimmer in but you know how good intentions can go. You know yourself better than we do. The opinion is just me. I have dimmers on non-dimmable CFLs in places and never use then dimmed just fine. CFL have self-contained ballasts and losing one just requires a bulb change so it wouldn't be so bad but I haven't has a problem yet. Also, the locations are not manually operated switches either. We very seldom touch switches due to many MSes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dansarrosick Posted August 16, 2015 Author Share Posted August 16, 2015 So the non dimming switch 2477s would be the right choice? http://www.smarthome.com/switchlinc-on-off-insteon-2477s-remote-control-switch-dual-band-white.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryllix Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 So the non dimming switch 2477s would be the right choice? http://www.smarthome.com/switchlinc-on-off-insteon-2477s-remote-control-switch-dual-band-white.html ...or change the fixture soon. I have never had a problem as long as the switch is never dimmed. Fluorescents run on all kinds of dirty power from generators and inverters no problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teken Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 Also to add to the comments made above please ensure the *Ramp Rate* is adjusted for 0.1 seconds and not the default 0.5 seconds. This delay turn on has more impact on none dimmable loads then simply having it at a partial dim level. Meaning the device is slowly being powered up in a slow ramp manner. Depending upon the type of ballast this lack of *turn on* will cause a increase in current to be drawn down when the voltage is low. This causing a burn out . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian H Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 The 2477S sounds like a better choice. Some devices not made for dimmers may have no great issues while others may cause problems. Since the Dimmer Switch is getting warmer than normal. I would think it is not 100% happy on the lamps ballasts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stusviews Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 Do not use a dimmer for non-dimmable loads because TRIACs trim the waveform even at 100% brightness. If you don't destroy the ballast, the dimmer or both over time you will most likely shorten the lifespan of the devices. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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