Gouldc Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 I'm very new to Insteon and ISY so please forgive what will likely be a very simple question. I have finished configuring my ISY and have installed two devices, a dimmer switch and On/Off wall outlet. The switch linked perfectly using the auto linking but the switch is not being seen. I'm not sure how long the outlet should remain in linking mode but the light only blinks for a few seconds, 20 tops. Any help would be appreciated, not sure where to even begin troubleshooting. Interesting point as well, when I attempt to manually add through "add device" there is no OKAY button to accept the address? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Techman Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 I'm very new to Insteon and ISY so please forgive what will likely be a very simple question. I have finished configuring my ISY and have installed two devices, a dimmer switch and On/Off wall outlet. The switch linked perfectly using the auto linking but the switch is not being seen. I'm not sure how long the outlet should remain in linking mode but the light only blinks for a few seconds, 20 tops. Any help would be appreciated, not sure where to even begin troubleshooting. Interesting point as well, when I attempt to manually add through "add device" there is no OKAY button to accept the address? What is the firmware version of your ISY? It needs to be fairy current in order to link the outlet. Make sure nothing is plugged into the outlet then go to "link management" - new Insteon device. type in the address of the device then click OK, If you're still unable to link then you most likely have a communications issue and will need to bridge the two legs of your powerline Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gouldc Posted November 15, 2015 Author Share Posted November 15, 2015 I appreciate the response. Version is 4.3.26. When adding a device through "new insteon device" I don't have an OK button, very strange as I've read this method numerous times. Can you offer any guidance on how to bridge the two legs? Reading through the PLM quick start guide and the 4 tap test I'm to look for a device that has a solid green or bright white light to indicate it is on the other leg, is that what a person wants; assuming that device will then be used to RF signals to the other leg? Is there any other way to bridge legs as I don't have many devices yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Techman Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 The more dual band devices you add the more reliable you Insteon network will become. Lamplincs and on/off modules will improve the network as they are dualband and being that they are external modules their antennas are more effective in helping to relay the Insteon signals and to bridge the powerline legs. You also may have to filter certain electronics, using Filterlincs, such as computers, UPS, TV's as their power supplies can interfere with the Insteon signals. Take a look at the UDI Wiki for articles on improving your network and bridging the powerline legs. The attached picture is what you should see when you add a new device to the ISY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gouldc Posted November 15, 2015 Author Share Posted November 15, 2015 Thank you for your patience, this is journey! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teken Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 Hello, I would humbly suggest you plug in the On-Off unit to the same electrical outlet as the 2413S PLM and report back if you're able to add the device to the 994 Series Controller. If this works you're golden and you can move forward to identify noise makers / signal suckers in the home. As Techman indicated its imperative to bridge the two electrical legs of the split single phase system in your home. This will ensure the Insteon signal can be seen and received consistently with in the home. As you indicated when you initiate the 4 tap (Beacon) test the responding device(s) will either blink red / green. If the receiver device shows a red LED it indicates its on the same phase. If its green it indicates its on the opposite side of the split single phase electrical system in the home. This beacon test uses RF to transmit and confirm the coupling / bridging process. It should be noted to obtain the best and (visually) identify correct LED response from the two plugin devices. You should ensure they are both placed in the off state and not the on state. The reason for doing so is when the beacon test starts to pulse what ever state the plugin device is in will show up before the unit responds to the same phase / opposite phase. Clear as mud? Meaning if the On-Off module is turned on a green LED will be present when it first flashes. If say its on same phase you would literally see the unit flash green, then red, and this cycle would continue until the beacon test timed out which is 4 minutes. If you left the same device in the off position (red LED) when you initiated the beacon test if it was again on the same phase you would simply see a red LED, followed with another red LED. In the above example you can see why doing it one way offers ambiguity vs the other its pretty cut and dry. Ha . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gouldc Posted November 15, 2015 Author Share Posted November 15, 2015 Thanks Teken, I will do some testing by moving the PLM around; the device in question is a hardwired outlet. I will also do some reading on bridging my phases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teken Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 Thanks Teken, I will do some testing by moving the PLM around; the device in question is a hardwired outlet. I will also do some reading on bridging my phases. Yes, just use a long extension cord to move around if you need to test for physical obstructions etc. It should be noted the plugin lamp linc module is the only Insteon device that I am aware of that does not impose the 4 minute beacon test. It will continue to operate until you push the set button again. Also, you may notice that if you initiate the 4 tap beacon test in the opposite direction *sometimes* it will not produce the same results of same phase / opposite phase. I call this out because if this scenario is scene you need to be mindful that the RF coupling is teetering on being received. Ideally, best practices is to have at least one dual band device on all four corners of the home. Which is replicated on each floor to insure the best signal propagation. When finances don't allow such deployment having a single dual band device that is not obstructed installed high up in the center of the home is a good compromise albeit limited to the ability to do so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gouldc Posted November 15, 2015 Author Share Posted November 15, 2015 Just headed out to pick up a few more devices to extend my reach and cover both phases. I do have one more quick question if you haven't had enough of me yet; I've run the PLM beacon test and the two devices, a dimmer switch and hardwired outlet, do not show any response. The LED lights on both devices do not change at all? At present my switch is working but my outlet is not registering. I have moved the PLM to various outlets throughout the floor and no change. Interesting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teken Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 If they do not react this would indicate the RF signal is not being received. I believe all newer Insteon devices offer dual colored LED's to indicate same phase / opposite phase. As the last 15 switch Linc Dimmers had a dual LED. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gouldc Posted November 15, 2015 Author Share Posted November 15, 2015 That helps. I'm starting to think the device is faulty, no LED change with the PLM within 6 feet and direct line of sight. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerlands Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 Are your devices dual-band? If the PLM is still on a different leg and the devices are powerline only then your issue is coupling. on off outlet 2473s is not dual band dimmer 2476D is not dual band Jon... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gouldc Posted November 15, 2015 Author Share Posted November 15, 2015 You guys have been a ton of help, thank you. Thankfully there is a local source carrying this gear. I spent a little more time looking at the devices closely and that is what I have found, not all of them are dual band. I picked up 3 additional in hopes of covering at least most of the floor I'm working on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teken Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 You guys have been a ton of help, thank you. Thankfully there is a local source carrying this gear. I spent a little more time looking at the devices closely and that is what I have found, not all of them are dual band. I picked up 3 additional in hopes of covering at least most of the floor I'm working on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk No worries and once you confirm proper coupling / bridging you should be good to go. ️ Ideals are peaceful - History is violent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gouldc Posted November 16, 2015 Author Share Posted November 16, 2015 Tada, thank you everyone for your help and patience; looks like it was a bridging problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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