Insteon Wireless Thermostat power supply recommendations

[rafarataneneces]

per the manual I need an AC/DC adapter 5.0V and 200mA output. However I need to peel the cables and insert them through the back.

 

It also says "do not use anything over 5.5 v to avoid damage"

 

Has anybody used a power supply with this and is happy with the end result?

 

my questions are

1) any recommendations?

 

links to Amazon products if possible

 

2) how often can you retrieve temperature readings if you use the wireless thermostat with power supply?

 

I know with battery you can only read once every hour, it's awful

 

thanks!

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[larryllix]

I have to assume you mean the 2441ZTH.

 

I had to bring it through the back also. I used some small hex nuts to raise the stat off the wood wall to accommodate that.

 

I used a 5v adapter to run it and left the batteries in. They don't appear to get used when the AC is on and no backfeed into the batteries, is apparent. It works well. I cut the plug off and used the bare wire into the terminals in the stat.

 

ISY does not retrieve the temperature from this device.

Insteon is not a polling system from the master.

Insteon is a report by exception system from the remote device. When the temperature changes about 1.5 C the stat sends a new temperature.

ISY is blind after a power cycle until the stat reports a change. Many don't like this. You can memorise the temp. in a variable easily with v5. Now use the variable in your programs.

 

Humidity is sent on a regular timed basis. IIRC about 1 minute for AC and 5 minutes for batteries.

 

The 2441ZTH is not too bad, lacking fancy features, and looks, but the updating has to be understood or frustration results from users.

Edited September 11, 2016 by larryllix

[rafarataneneces]

so

 

1) what happens when connected to power if I want to read the temperature of the Insteon Wireless Thermostat and store it in a variable?

 

2) can I do an ISY program that triggers every time the temperature changes?

 

if AC Wireless Thermostat > 0

 

thanks

[larryllix]

so

 

1) what happens when connected to power if I want to read the temperature of the Insteon Wireless Thermostat and store it in a variable?

 

2) can I do an ISY program that triggers every time the temperature changes?

 

if AC Wireless Thermostat > 0

 

thanks

Yes.

It has to be a State variable and it will trigger  program every time it changes.

 

You don't read the temperature from the stat. It tells you (ISY) the temperature when it changes.

If

   AC stat temperature > -999

Then

   set $sVariable = AC Stat, Temperature

   set $sVariable init to  AC Stat Temperature   <---survives power failures

Else 

  --

 

If

   $sVariable <= 20.0     <---stat provides hysteresis

 

Then

   turn heater On

   wait 100 hours

   turn heater Off

 

Else

   turn heater Off

Edited September 11, 2016 by larryllix

[rafarataneneces]

Yes.

It has to be a State variable and it will trigger  program every time it changes.

 

You don't read the temperature from the stat. It tells you (ISY) the temperature when it changes.

If

   AC stat temperature > -999

Then

   set $sVariable = AC Stat, Temperature

   set $sVariable init to  AC Stat Temperature   <---survives power failures

Else 

  --

 

If

   $sVariable <= 20.0     <---stat provides hysteresis

 

Then

   turn heater On

   wait 100 hours

   turn heater Off

 

Else

   turn heater Off

 

So even if it changes 1F, it will tell the ISY?

 

I read that it only report changes if it changes at least 1.5C, that's too high

[larryllix]

Please read post #2 again. You are asking all the same questions I have already answered there.

 

Thanks

[rafarataneneces]

Please read post #2 again. You are asking all the same questions I have already answered there.

 

Thanks

 

The wireless thermostat can report temperature changes when temperature changes 5C, 1.5C, 1C, or 1F

 

I don't know

 

or even 0.5F

[larryllix]

My 2441ZTH units (I have two) report temperatures in a one byte (8 bits) value

 

0 - 255 value = 0.0 - 127.5 degrees C.

 

There is no negative values as it is not possible in the protocol.

I don't think 0.5F resolution is possible, only 0.5C resolution.

 

Despite forced sending testing showing about 1.5C change before sending, ISY always seems to be accurate to sensor temperature.

 

I wouldn't use an Insteon thermostat for main HVAC in my home. I use them for sensing probes, backup = anti-freeze protection, and humidity control ventilation. Non-critical applications.

 

Stusviews uses them for fireplace control.

[rafarataneneces]

I want to use it so if temperature changes 1F, then change the ceiling fan speed

[rafarataneneces]

Would you please let me know if you can find in Amazon the power supply with 5v 200mah that you used?

 

the only thing I found was USB chargers and I don't know if USB cables have one positive and one negative

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Techman]

You can query the 2441ZTH, and make changes to its settings if it's running on an external power supply. If it's running only on batteries then you can only query or make changes if it's in the linking mode..

[larryllix]

Would you please let me know if you can find in Amazon the power supply with 5v 200mah that you used?

the only thing I found was USB chargers and I don't know if USB cables have one positive and one negative

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any USB charging system will do the job.

 

Sorry I try to avoid shopping from American online stores due to shipping scams they run but here are some I have found.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/AC-100-240V-0-3A-DC-5V-2A-EU-US-Plug-USB-Power-Supply-Adapter-Charger-HS-/111710348261?var=&hash=item1a0274a3e5:m:m5_zZY58d21rPsm8r6-n4eg

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/US-5V-AC-DC-Power-supply-Adapter-For-G-Box-MX-2-M8-MXQ-MX3-Android-XBMC-TV-Box-/281932052443?hash=item41a475b7db:g:hgkAAOSwLzdWTus1

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/USB-Switching-Power-Supply-Adapter-Charger-AC-100-240V-DC-5V-2A-10W-US-EU-Plug-/361704993157?var=&hash=item54374c3185:m:mWQPBDxSif1tWMTvpj060AA

https://www.amazon.ca/HDE-Adapter-External-Electronic-Charger/dp/B00DTTROY4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473620040&sr=8-3&keywords=5v+adapter

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Sale-DC-5V-2A-2000mah-AC-Power-Adapter-Wall-Charger-for-Android-Tablet-PC-MID-S-/171854362635?hash=item280351780b:g:94AAAOSwPcVVoHab

https://www.amazon.ca/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=5v+adapter

 

Mine were from old wireless phone handsets.

Edited September 11, 2016 by larryllix

[Brian H]

Would you please let me know if you can find in Amazon the power supply with 5v 200mah that you used?

 

the only thing I found was USB chargers and I don't know if USB cables have one positive and one negative

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would use caution with a 5 volt 200mah USB charger you referred to. 200mah sounds like a charging rate and the voltage will go up and down to maintain the 200mah charge rate.

 

The 5 volt 200mA rating is most important with unregulated power supplies. If the load was less than 200mA the 5 volts would be high and if the load was greater than 200mA the 5 volts would be low.

 

A fully regulated 5 volt wall wart rated at 200mA or greater would probably work fine.

 

I use a 2.4 amp wall wart for my Raspberry Pi3 and it is not loaded close to 2.4 amps but the output is still correct.

Edited September 11, 2016 by Brian H

[larryllix]

I would use caution with a 5 volt 200mah USB charger. 200mah sounds like a charging rate and the voltage will go up and down to maintain the 200mah charge rate.

 

The 5 volt 200mA rating is most important with unregulated power supplies. If the load was less than 200mA the 5 volts would be high and if the load was greater than 200mA the 5 volts would be low.

 

A fully regulated 5 volt wall wart rated at 200mA or greater would probably work fine.

 

I use a 2.4 amp wall wart for my Raspberry Pi3 and it is not loaded close to 2.4 amps but the output is still correct.

Good points. Any lower current rated wallwarts are usually analogue transformer types now and produce heat.

Almost every switching type adapter is a minimum of 10000mA now.

 

USB was initially spec'ed as max and current limited at 500 mA but now the sky is the limit on those poor little contacts in that itsy-bitsy microUSB plug. Cut it off.

Edited September 11, 2016 by larryllix

[stusviews]

The 2441ZTH is not too bad, lacking fancy features, and looks, but the updating has to be understood or frustration results from users.

 

The wireless thermostat has every feature that the wired thermostat has.

 

the only thing I found was USB chargers and I don't know if USB cables have one positive and one negative

 

You can use virtually any USB power supply. All USB chargers/adapters have a positive, usually red, and a negative, usually black.

[larryllix]

The only thing I have found with USB cables is that to get the wires into that itsy-bitsy timey mocroUSB connector the wires inside the cables are about #30 AWG stranded wire.

They are very hard to terminate and break very easily.

 

If you get a WallWart type with a heavier cable on it the wires are much easier for you to strip and terminate in the terminals, let alone have some physical strength. Wire colours can be any colour inside the cable. Use a meter to determine polarity.

 

As I stated, except **both** wired and wireless Insteon thermostats are cheap looking, cheap operation, and fairly cheaply prices.

[G W]

Unfortunately these units are not accurate enough to provide true temperature readings. It appears these are set to provide temperature in .5°C increments and that leaves a rather large error when converting to F.

 

I think we'd be better of with Arduino temperature sensors in every room and collecting temperature data to make decisions. Personally, I am working on installing an Arduino with sensor in every air vent and a sensor at every window. I'll collect the data, analyze it, and make a decision on what to turn on or off.

 

I'm mostly doing this out of curiosity, interest and because I can. It will be a fun project.

 

Best regards,

Gary Funk

[larryllix]

Unfortunately these units are not accurate enough to provide true temperature readings. It appears these are set to provide temperature in .5°C increments and that leaves a rather large error when converting to F.

 

I think we'd be better of with Arduino temperature sensors in every room and collecting temperature data to make decisions. Personally, I am working on installing an Arduino with sensor in every air vent and a sensor at every window. I'll collect the data, analyze it, and make a decision on what to turn on or off.

 

I'm mostly doing this out of curiosity, interest and because I can. It will be a fun project.

 

Best regards,

Gary Funk

I use CAO Tags for the same but...

what common hardware/hub/software is needed for the ardiuno technique you are using?

[G W]

I use CAO Tags for the same but...

what common hardware/hub/software is needed for the ardiuno technique you are using?

I am using small Arduino boards that I have accumulated over the past year and standard temperature probes. I'm looking into super small boards and small temp probes. Everything I have now is hardwired with power and Ethernet. I'm looking for a method to run power and data to a central hub to collect data. I'm just not sure where I want to go with this but I want it to be cheap per device and scalable.

 

I want hardwire because I don't want batteries and it's rather easy to run the wiring in tbe ducts. I've run Ethernet cable to connect the few devices I have. They collect the data and post it to a website which stores it in a database. I did it this way as a proof that everything is working.

 

In the end there needs to be a small device to collect and store the data then forward it on demand to something.

 

Short and to the point.

Best regards,

Gary Funk

[larryllix]

Thanks Gary.

 

So the biggest part is going to be the "splitter", being, in your case, an Ethernet router(s) or switch(es) with so many ports..

 

This is going to take some electronics "savvy" to get the probes and boards and PS wiring together.

 

For a wired solution with less "splitter" cost, I think I would prefer the 1wire sensor network string into one PCB with Ethernet..

For a non-hobby plug'n play type solution, I prefer the CAO Tags with such high accuracy, reliability, and distance, except for the battery aspect. The CR2032 are 3 for $1 so that is cheap enough.

 

The battery in the one in my "cook-house" vehicle glove box has only lasted about 8 months now and will need to be replaced shortly. The other three in cooler spots show no signs of wear yet and will last years.

[G W]

Battery cost has never been an issue with me. It's the "I don't want to deal with it" factor.

 

I went with Arduino because it has multiple inputs and outputs AND i can write my own code. I can also use a single device for multiple functions.

 

It's just something I want to see how far I can go.

 

Best regards,

Gary Funk

[rafarataneneces]

I bought an Insteon Wireless Thermostat.

 

I installed it with USB and did some investigation so it's always powered on.

 

I connected it to a power outlet that already has USB.

 

It looks so good!

however, it's been almost 1 hour and ISY won't see the temperature.

 

So, from what I understand, ONLY when it changes temperature, it will send a 'report' to ISY

 

correct?

So you can't Query the device from ISY to see the temperature?

So far, I love that it's always on!

[stusviews]

What's the result if you place the thermostat into linking mode before the query?

[rafarataneneces]

What's the result if you place the thermostat into linking mode before the query?

 

hmm I haven't tried, I would need to reboot since I see the temperature as 83F now.

 

but the Thermostat with USB power is working rock solid, it sends the variable to the ISY every single time the temperature changes.

 

I love it!

 

I hope I remember to do this next time I reboot the ISY.

 

I created a program that stores the temperature and humidity, and also with 'Int to' so it survives reboots.

[larryllix]

hmm I haven't tried, I would need to reboot since I see the temperature as 83F now.

 

but the Thermostat with USB power is working rock solid, it sends the variable to the ISY every single time the temperature changes.

 

I love it!

 

I hope I remember to do this next time I reboot the ISY.

 

I created a program that stores the temperature and humidity, and also with 'Int to' so it survives reboots.

AC power doesn't change the way the Insteon wireless updates except for humidity uses a faster update time cycle.