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Insteon Custom Keys - Reduced Price


Teken

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As many of you know Smarthome had the custom 6 / 8 button sets selling for $19.XX - 20.XX in the past.

 

Later the company decided to jack up the unit price to $49.99!

 

As of today the 8 button set is going for $34.99 still expensive for eight pieces of cheap plastic but still with in reason. The 6 button set has also been adjusted to $29.99 which is also expensive but much better value when compared to the above.

 

Get them while their hot and at this low price which seems to me a regular price?

 

Perhaps all of the Internet forum posts along with reduced sales has finally made the powers that be realize its time to offer some real value again!

 

http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2401c6-custom-etched-6-button-set-for-keypadlinc.html

 

http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2401c8-custom-etched-8-button-set-for-keypadlinc.html

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I got engraved keys for my old place during some similar sale, but I think there was also a site-wide holiday sale going off, so it was actually pretty reasonable.

 

Unfortunately, not quite ready in new place to decide what to put on the keys.

 

Remember our lively ham radio discussion? Well, if you do ever find a ham radio "swap and shop" in the frozen north, not only will you find a lot of helpful "Elmer"s, but there will always be somebody with an engraving machine willing and able to engrave your call sign, name, or whatever, on name tags, placards, etc. They MIGHT be able to engrave your keys, as well. But as I recall, they use a two-layer plastic, so that they need only machine though the top layer to reveal the second color underneath. I don't think the Insteon keys are constructed that way. (But they should be!)

 

While we are on the subject, open to suggestions for what to label the "sexy, low-lighting" button. I labeled it "mood", but felt a little silly about it.

 

I labeled the "D" button on every keypad "Other Areas". The LED is lit (with ISY program) if lights are on in other parts of the house. Pushing the button turns them off. Fishing for a better label for that, as well.

 

This time, I definitely get a "Barry White" button at the entrance!

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I think for that professional custom look the Insteon keys hit the mark. I know lots of folks have tried their hand at the laser engraver and a few did a good job. But I am extremely anal and OCD for things that reflect my home and if its for public viewing this same professional look must follow.

 

I was very fortunate to have taken advantage of the $19.XX pricing back in the day and crafted many sets I wanted for future use. There are probably a few more I will consider doing but they are more *Wants* opposed to *Needs* at the moment. At this juncture I will be focusing on doing the larger (wider) keys because it offers more letters and I need a few to render the required task.

 

With respect to HAM radio and finding a ELMER I am looking forward to Decembers meet.

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As a comparison, we use Somfy Decoflex Switches. Custom buttons wholesale for $3 each and retail for $5-8 per button.

 

I also customized the up and down buttons as we have bottom up window coverings in the front so as to maximize light coming in and minimize the view looking in. (It also helps that the front is about 20' above street level.) Also verticals and drapes are left-right, not up-down. The easy solution is Open and Close.

 

post-625-0-78871400-1474752516_thumb.jpg

 

And, of course, nearly all our Insteon buttons are custom etched (at the $19.99 price). This may be a good time to customize the remaining buttons B)

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I've resisted doing the switch linc using the custom etching but based on your image it can be pulled off nicely. This may sound like an odd question to ask but did you really feel you needed the *On / Off* to be etched in the paddles? I ask because to me that would just be common sense, no?

 

But I guess what held me back is labeling the top and bottom of the paddle kind of brings balance to the whole look. As I said I've struggled with this since getting into Insteon more than eight plus years. Haven't broken down to getting any paddles custom etched though for the home but might consider doing it for the theater and secure room.

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I'm still thinking about getting a laser engraver myself. I did have Smarthome do my switches a while back in my past home then when I moved and as Teken noted before in another thread, the whites are a bit different on the newer ones. I think the engraver would be good. Then in my spare time (that's a joke) maybe if its easy enough I wouldn't mind helping out the forum.

 

I did my switchlincs but left off the up/down. Heres a picture of a three gang.

 

4c616794af2cf8c8082850fd492fe564.jpg

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Yes, the latest batch of KPL OEM buttons are now a shade of off grey in terms of the white plastic when back lit. If anyone is going to purchase custom KPL keys it behooves you to purchase them in sets because they may not match any other KPL that are side by side.

 

For the average user this may not be a big deal but its quite noticeable to the naked eye . . . It should be noted the OEM KPL buttons are no longer green they are also a off shade of grey which is similar to the custom keys but a slight hue off. 

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Yes, the latest batch of KPL OEM buttons are now a shade of off grey in terms of the white plastic when back lit. If anyone is going to purchase custom KPL keys it behooves you to purchase them in sets because they may not match any other KPL that are side by side.

 

For the average user this may not be a big deal but its quite noticeable to the naked eye . . . It should be noted the OEM KPL buttons are no longer green they are also a off shade of grey which is similar to the custom keys but a slight hue off.

I have serious OCD too and I have three areas this is an issue but yet to fix it lol. Dealing with those stupid small screws drive me insane! My plan is to fine a nice looking screw less wall plate. I'm not 100% sold on the Leviton ones, but then a nicer one seems to make the Insteon paddle look cheap so...

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I've resisted doing the switch linc using the custom etching but based on your image it can be pulled off nicely. This may sound like an odd question to ask but did you really feel you needed the *On / Off* to be etched in the paddles? I ask because to me that would just be common sense, no?

 

But I guess what held me back is labeling the top and bottom of the paddle kind of brings balance to the whole look. As I said I've struggled with this since getting into Insteon more than eight plus years. Haven't broken down to getting any paddles custom etched though for the home but might consider doing it for the theater and secure room.

 

I did think about it, perhaps too much. Brighten and dim, nope. Not a good balance. Tap On, Hold Bright, Hold Dim. Tap Off. I actually did one that way.See below. On, Off struck a nice balance.

post-625-0-04440600-1474756416_thumb.jpg

And all screwless switch plates.

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I did think about it, perhaps too much. Brighten and dim, nope. Not a good balance. Tap On, Hold Bright, Hold Dim. Tap Off. I actually did one that way.See below. On, Off struck a nice balance.

attachicon.gifTransformed_DSCN0872.JPG

And all screwless switch plates.

 

Now that photo was worth a thousand words right there. Its the proper spacing and balancing it being too busy is what I am trying to avoid.

 

I appreciate the photo's because I am very much a visual learner . . . 

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Do you have the bright white SwitchLincs that were produced for a short time. They didn't match any switch plate at all. OTOH, it's a lot less costly to replace a switch plate than a SwitchLinc B)

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Do you have the bright white SwitchLincs that were produced for a short time. They didn't match any switch plate at all. OTOH, it's a lot less costly to replace a switch plate than a SwitchLinc B)

My switchlincs are nice bright white and all match the switchplates, but the Decora switches I bought when I built the house, are slowly yellowing.

 

Now that I have a three-banger all with Insteon, it doesn't show but many other mechanical switches are yellowing. As long as they are grouped with like units together, it isn't obvious but I can see in a few more years I will need to replace most of the mechanicals.

 

I can't detect any yellowing of Insteon swiches but i't only been about 3 years for them.

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The two-color plastic used for name badges won't work for buttons, since they have to be translucent. So, it has to be machine-and-paint-fill. 

 

Gotta believe this can be done by a third-party for less money. Wasn't there some discussion of this a while back?

 

BTW, stick with white if you are going to label! No problem with switches, but for buttons, ANY color (including light almond) will severely attenuate the backlight.

 

One reason I went with white after my move. 

 

I am using NEARLY all white now. But when I switch it up, I go all-in.

 

 

post-528-0-15946300-1474906714_thumb.jpg

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my comment is about the fact the screw heads are not vertical

 

 

Now THAT is OCD.

 

NOT only orthogonal, and matching, but VERTICAL. Nooooo, horizontal would not be good enough, because for some reason, switch-plate buttons need to be VERTICAL.

 

Fixed.

 

Considering using these in one other place, with olde-fashioned pushbuttons. I would use a mini remote. What I am unsure of, though, is whether the available momentary-contact pushbuttons are able to handle 120V for the sense lines. They say "low voltage". :(

 

http://www.kyleswitchplates.com/antique-style-low-voltage-dual-momentary-push-button-switches/

 

Pretty sure I have seen the same switch on various online stores, and have not found a different one. Dual-momentary lets you do manual dimming with the right sense line setup.

 

I'll put in a plug for House of Antique Hardware for these great-looking, solid brass cast switchplates. SO much nicer than the stamped metal plates you find at Home Depot and, really, just about everywhere else. Even nicer in person than in the pictures, it gives me goosebumps just to handle them! Well, OK, they ought to be nice for the price! Only negative is that there is some mis-registration of the machining of the Decora cutout vs the pattern on some of the covers (I got 4 four the kitchen), but you can imagine very difficult with this pattern.

 

The button version:

 

http://www.houseofantiquehardware.com/electrical-faceplates-victorian-single-push-button-abh?sc=9&category=128

 

 I choose the "antique by hand" finish, which I gather is application of a chemical for patina followed by hand-burnishing. Or you can get the shiny brass and let it age on it's own. It is a faithful reproduction of Russell & Erwin's "Pisano" pattern from 1898. Sorry, (if you are Italian and your PC sensibilities have just been bruised...) Yes, I am fully aware of the fact that they did not have Decora outlets in 1898 - some modernizations are necessary! 

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