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Questions about the glass break sensor


Blackbird

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Have you had experience with it? Is it worth getting? I have a sliding patio door in my dining room and thought it might be good for that.

 

Thanks

 

So called glass break sensors often times measure ambient sound and sometimes pressure. More expensive sensors do in fact measure and detect the sound of breaking glass. You will quickly know if its the former because the test will indicate the user / installer should take a set of keys and rattle them around.

 

Or the incredibly stupid method of clapping your hands . . .

 

If the sensor activates its LED to both of the above never mind just smacking the glass. You know the sensor is simply detecting ambient noise / sounds. Regardless of the above glass sensors need to be properly installed per the makers orientation, distance, and not be limited by those using cloth window coverings.

 

Normally, glass sensors are programmed to be active at all times and not bypassed for stay modes. This is important to note because - besides the actual windows and door sensors that monitor opening the glass sensor is the last line of defense to a force entry.

 

Those who have properly thought out and planned their install can increase the level of protection by enabling protected cross zones using dual tech sensors. The problem with this sort of deployment is it very much restricts a person to none secured zones which doesn't work well for those with pets, kids, or active lifestyles.

 

Lastly, like many simple car alarms which have impact sensors you will really need to ensure the sensor is well calibrate to negate the seasonal thunder clap of lightning. More false alarms happen during the rainy season across Norther America besides poorly selected and deployed PIR sensors. 

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So called glass break sensors often times measure ambient sound and sometimes pressure. More expensive sensors do in fact measure and detect the sound of breaking glass. You will quickly know if its the former because the test will indicate the user / installer should take a set of keys and rattle them around.

 

Or the incredibly stupid method of clapping your hands . . .

 

If the sensor activates its LED to both of the above never mind just smacking the glass. You know the sensor is simply detecting ambient noise / sounds. Regardless of the above glass sensors need to be properly installed per the makers orientation, distance, and not be limited by those using cloth window coverings.

 

Normally, glass sensors are programmed to be active at all times and not bypassed for stay modes. This is important to note because - besides the actual windows and door sensors that monitor opening the glass sensor is the last line of defense to a force entry.

 

Those who have properly thought out and planned their install can increase the level of protection by enabling protected cross zones using dual tech sensors. The problem with this sort of deployment is it very much restricts a person to none secured zones which doesn't work well for those with pets, kids, or active lifestyles.

 

Lastly, like many simple car alarms which have impact sensors you will really need to ensure the sensor is well calibrate to negate the seasonal thunder clap of lightning. More false alarms happen during the rainy season across Norther America besides poorly selected and deployed PIR sensors.

Real installers use this:

 

https://www.surveillance-video.com/accessory-5709cw.html

 

Also the Elk can have a glass break work in different ways in "stay" mode. Mr. T.

 

"I pitty the fool"

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There are several types of glass break sensors. The Elk forum or even cocoontech.com is a better place to ask.

 

Short and to the point.

Best regards,

Gary Funk

I guess it would have helped if I specified the ELK model ELK-6040.  I edited my post. 

thanks

So is the ELK model a good one?  Any experience with it?

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I could wire maybe the glass sensor or even a smoke detector but for the most part I need to go wireless

 

Keep in mind even if you need to pay someone to do some of the wiring that's money well spent. The long term reliability, costs, and on going maintenance can't be over stated here. Please consider hiring out some of the wiring for critical infrastructure areas / zones.

 

Hard wiring everything helps you stay above a security 2 rating . . .

 

Which is one of many elements to be classified as such! 

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Battery "checks" are done in the Elk wireless and you get notification on the keypad and CS. This is a thing of the past.

 

Anyone who relies on the hardware to tell them all is fine is breaking one of many rules of security. Validation, testing, and confirmation is not something people should let a machine do. If that was the case why does any company have annual fire checks and tests?

 

Just because a person doesn't live in a commercial space doesn't mean the same basic tests should not be done. More people have died because of being lazy and relying on their *Tech* to operate when only a few moments a month / year could have saved their aszz.

 

Many of you have already read my rants, raves, and feedback about the 5-7 most common checks people fail to do each year. If people can't press on a test button once a month what makes them think some random piece of hardware is going to let them know its working correctly??

 

This is why hardware is given a security rating from 1-4.

 

As I mentioned in the past many facets to obtaining a 3 and above is simply based on user programming and follow up. Also anyone who believes the ARC is something to be relied upon for maintenance issues has the wrong mentality to begin with. Security is a lifestyle its not simply a thing or a piece of hardware which 99% of the population seem to think it is.

 

Right now there are people with home brew RPis and silly toys called the Canary in their homes. In the belief that constitutes a solid and reliable field proven system.

 

Its not and life and property will be lost to those in that belief . . . 

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Way too serious for my tastes.

I have a sign in my front foyer saying

 

"Two claps will turn on Lights"

 

My family and trained guests all know not to double clap near it.

 

When I have a break-in the would-be thieves will clap to get the lights on, and it is connected directly to a dialer that calls the police.

 

This has worked everytime for the break-ins I have had so far and every offender has been caught but we have since decided we don't want our stuff back. Now we have to pay people to break-in and are currently looking for good candidates, with some experience, that are trustworthy and honest.

 

---------------------

 

While I am here...does anybody know what resistance to terminate a DSC alarm panel into, to fake a phone line connection, so the stupid beeper will stop annoying the household for the next ten years?

 

I was thinking about 1K but not sure.

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