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Thermostat suggestions for underfloor heating?


kohai

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I've got under tile heating in my master bathroom and it has an Honeywell/Aube thermostat on it.  It has started to make all sorts of clicking noises (not just one to turn on/off but a whole bunch in a row when it does anything).  It still works but it wakes me up.

 

Honeywell suggested a couple of replacement models that they sell.  In googling a bit, I see other thermostats made by Nuheat and others.  Nuheat has a wifi model.  I did find one European company making a z-wave thermostat for underfloor heating but they don't make a US version.  The only reason I would want one with connectivity is to maybe turn it off in a vacation mode or seasonally.  

 

Two questions:

 

1. I thought I would solicit some opinions from ya'll since you guys are smart and don't lack opinions.  :)

 

2. On the replacement Honeywell/Aube they list these programmable options:

 
TH115-AF-GA/U (ground fault protection 5 mA) 
TH115-AF-GB/U (ground fault protection 15 mA) 
 
My question is whether one, 5 mA or 15 mA, is better than the other?  I don't quite understand the difference (not an electrician).  
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I've got under tile heating in my master bathroom and it has an Honeywell/Aube thermostat on it.  It has started to make all sorts of clicking noises (not just one to turn on/off but a whole bunch in a row when it does anything).  It still works but it wakes me up.

 

Honeywell suggested a couple of replacement models that they sell.  In googling a bit, I see other thermostats made by Nuheat and others.  Nuheat has a wifi model.  I did find one European company making a z-wave thermostat for underfloor heating but they don't make a US version.  The only reason I would want one with connectivity is to maybe turn it off in a vacation mode or seasonally.  

 

Two questions:

 

1. I thought I would solicit some opinions from ya'll since you guys are smart and don't lack opinions.   :)

 

2. On the replacement Honeywell/Aube they list these programmable options:

 
TH115-AF-GA/U (ground fault protection 5 mA) 
TH115-AF-GB/U (ground fault protection 15 mA) 
 
My question is whether one, 5 mA or 15 mA, is better than the other?  I don't quite understand the difference (not an electrician).  

 

 

Normally ground fault means how much current must pass before the protection devices trip. One would assume the lower value of 5 mA would be the ideal but then again I don't pretend to know what the protection circuit is supposed to do.

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Here's a bit more info from the Honeywell site on the 5 mA and 15 mA:

 

- 5 mA ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) on GA models
 
- 15 mA equipment ground fault protection devices (EGFPD) on GB models

 

 

Well, that is indeed a distinction one is for human where as the other is for device.

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Equipment Ground Fault Protection Device (EGFPD) protects the equipment in the event of a ground fault, Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt (GFCI) is meant for personal safety.

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I've got under tile heating in my master bathroom and it has an Honeywell/Aube thermostat on it.  It has started to make all sorts of clicking noises (not just one to turn on/off but a whole bunch in a row when it does anything).  It still works but it wakes me up.

 

Honeywell suggested a couple of replacement models that they sell.  In googling a bit, I see other thermostats made by Nuheat and others.  Nuheat has a wifi model.  I did find one European company making a z-wave thermostat for underfloor heating but they don't make a US version.  The only reason I would want one with connectivity is to maybe turn it off in a vacation mode or seasonally.  

 

Two questions:

 

1. I thought I would solicit some opinions from ya'll since you guys are smart and don't lack opinions.   :)

 

2. On the replacement Honeywell/Aube they list these programmable options:

 
TH115-AF-GA/U (ground fault protection 5 mA) 
TH115-AF-GB/U (ground fault protection 15 mA) 
 
My question is whether one, 5 mA or 15 mA, is better than the other?  I don't quite understand the difference (not an electrician).  

 

The 5mA may give more nuisance trips.

 

GFCIs do not limit current, or limit how much current may leak to ground. They only limit the time the current difference may exist before breaking the circuit feed.

 

GFCIs works by measuring the current passing through the GFCI and the current coming back from the load, on the neutral wire, through the GFCI again. If there is a difference between the currents of more than 5mA or 15mA, it will interrupt the circuit because some is getting lost where it isn't supposed to be going.

 

HCS

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The 5mA may give more nuisance trips.

 

GFCIs do not limit current, or limit how much current may leak to ground. They only limit the time the current difference may exist before breaking the circuit feed.

 

GFCIs works by measuring the current passing through the GFCI and the current coming back from the load, on the neutral wire, through the GFCI again. If there is a difference between the currents of more than 5mA or 15mA, it will interrupt the circuit because some is getting lost where it isn't supposed to be going.

 

HCS

 

Nuisance tripping has nothing to do with how much current is being measured as the fault tolerance. It has everything to do with bad design and engineering and not compensating for real world electrical load(s) variables. This has been clearly seen and demonstrated by the very first GFCI / AFCI's in the market place.

 

None of them allow more current to pass and use the same (defined) parameters for a tripping threshold. What the next iteration and new releases provided was better design, engineering, and wider fault tolerances which apply to real world loads seen in the home. 

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Nuisance tripping has nothing to do with how much current is being measured as the fault tolerance. It has everything to do with bad design and engineering and not compensating for real world electrical load(s) variables. This has been clearly seen and demonstrated by the very first GFCI / AFCI's in the market place.

 

None of them allow more current to pass and use the same (defined) parameters for a tripping threshold. What the next iteration and new releases provided was better design, engineering, and wider fault tolerances which apply to real world loads seen in the home. 

GFCIs do not operate by load, only measured differential currents.

 

If the differential sensing is too sensitive, nuisance tripping will happen frequently as was experienced by the early GFCI models used with certain loads. Wiring always has some leakage that can trip an over sensitive GFCI.

 

Arc fault current interrupters have difference sensing elements.

 

I am not sure what you are trying to relay with your information.

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GFCIs do not operate by load, only measured differential currents.

 

If the differential sensing is too sensitive, nuisance tripping will happen frequently as was experienced by the early GFCI models used with certain loads. Wiring always has some leakage that can trip an over sensitive GFCI.

 

Arc fault current interrupters have difference sensing elements.

 

I am not sure what you are trying to relay with your information.

 

I highlighted in red your reference to 5mA as being the cause to nuisance tripping. My reply was to enlighten the members the value has nothing to do with why there were so many nuisance tripping incidents. As the primary cause was due to poor design, engineering, and not using real world loads to be referenced as the deciding factor.

 

Meaning many of the first generation GFCI's were pure sh^t because some clown just used paper math to come up with the final hardware with out taking into account the many different load(s) seen in a real world home.

 

That was my point . . .

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It'd be more than a nuisance if there was a failure and you chose to protect the equipment rather than yourself. The 5 mA device protects people, the 15 ma device protects equipment. Choose whatever you consider is more valuable B)

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