Jim P Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 I have a 2466SW that goes off line ... the white status led that is usually on when the load is OFF , goes off all the time.... This device works fine for several days, then goes dead.. the manual switch does not work, the led status light is off and there is no communication with the ISY ... I usually power cycle the breaker and everything works for a few days with a repeat of the above symptoms. I replaced this device with a new one but this did not change the above symptoms.. Any Ideas ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokegrub Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 Have you tried a soft reset, pulling the reset out, wait a few seconds and pushimh it back in? I have several of those switches and one is notorios, having problems every couple of months. A reset and it is "happy" for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim P Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 I will try this next time it fails... Is there a difference between this and power cycling the breaker? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokegrub Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 I am no expert, but I think they are the same. Typically, just much more convenient and doesn't affect other things on the same breaker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teken Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 1. Confirm proper wiring and ensure they are secured correctly using linesmen pliers. Not simply by a twisting the marrette / wire nut.2. What is the attached load? If it's anything than a incandescent bulb change it out and report back.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim P Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 I replaced a florescent bulb with an incandescent bulb ... waiting to see if this is the issue. I have two other lights that are florescent that don't seem to have any issues. I never use dimmed settings, only fast on and fast off commands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teken Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 I replaced a florescent bulb with an incandescent bulb ... waiting to see if this is the issue. I have two other lights that are florescent that don't seem to have any issues. I never use dimmed settings, only fast on and fast off commands. To be clear this switch is a dimmer model and CFL, LED, Other bulbs are rated as dimmable? Lastly, please remove the switch and ensure all the wires are secure and properly bonded using linesmen pliers.Also be mindful if the JB is plastic ensure proper grounding. This has nothing to do with the operation of the fixture so much as being safe.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian H Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 Pulling the Air Gap switch out and cycling the breaker both cycle the power. The 2466SW is a white on and off type Togglelinc module. You mentioned dimmer that would be a 2466DW would be a white dimmer type Togglelinc. It maybe possible that some power line noise is effecting the modules electronic or if its electronics are starting to fail. If it is getting older. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim P Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 Both switches were recent purchases. I am just starting with insteon my previous house was all X-10 .. cheap but problematic as it took me a year to get over the phase bridges and lack of two way communications. The first switch to go dead ( until a power cycle ) was a dimmer.. I replaced it with a non-dimmer and after a few days it also went dead... I can't figure why it is only this circuit that is showing issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwester Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 Starting to sound to me like you have load problems. Dimmers, and particularly Insteon devices, sometimes have challenges with certain loads, and sometimes only at certain levels. The on/off devices are less sensitive, but I've had one that would happily and reliably turn on -- and then never communicated again with the PLM or any other device until it was turned off manually (the problem was a defective 25W-equivalent LED bulb that visually looked and operated just fine, but caused whatever device it was wired into to go utterly and completely deaf). I'd start unplugging and unscrewing anything and everything on that circuit, in hopes that you can find the noise-creator and/or signal-sucker that's on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teken Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 1 hour ago, Jim P said: Both switches were recent purchases. I am just starting with insteon my previous house was all X-10 .. cheap but problematic as it took me a year to get over the phase bridges and lack of two way communications. The first switch to go dead ( until a power cycle ) was a dimmer.. I replaced it with a non-dimmer and after a few days it also went dead... I can't figure why it is only this circuit that is showing issues. Keep in mind the toggle switch is one of the last *Single Band* hardwired devices Insteon offers. Unless you're fixated on having toggles switches in your home I would transition to the decora style dual band versions. Some of the biggest advances in the dual band switches is the more robust PSU that supports 100~277 VAC, 500 VAC surge, RF & Power Line, Dual LED, and some diagnostics tools. You get none of these in this legacy toggle hardware. As an aside I have no clue why Smartlabs hasn't updated this hardware given it obviously continues to sell?!?!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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