Controlinc Repair

[matapan]

I use a Controlinc for turning things on and off at my bedside. Recently the unit would stop working for no apparent reason. Power cycling the unit would make the device usable for a time, but the usable time has become shorter and shorter to the point where the device is unusable.

i opened up the device and noticed heat marks on the PCB around two components pictured. Does anyone know what exactly what these components are and where i can find replacement parts to repair the Controlinc? Thanks.

[Teken]

Is the black mark directly under that round black component beside the green capacitor?!?

Can you take another picture showing the opposite side of that board. Normally the PCB would indicate the component from resistor, capacitor, inductor, etc.


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[matapan]

The components with heat marks include the rectangular component with the inscription “15 30” on its top and the resistor to the right of this component in the image. There or no legend markings on the board which would give some clue as to what these parts are.

[Brian H]

The rectangular part marked 15 30 is a 30 volt Zener Diode. I never found the wattage rating of it.. Used in may of the early Insteon Modules like the 2456S3 ApplianceLinc and 2456D LampLinc. They do get hot. The part to the right of it is a diode. Not sure off hand if it is also a Zener.  I did find a replacement for the 15 30 Zener as I had one short out in a 2456S3 later revision ApplianceLinc. It was a 30V 5W.  I will see if I can find the number.

I personally would suspect the 470uF/35V NoVer capacitor to the left of the Zener. I have had some fail in early modules. Or the other electrolytic  above the Zener in the photo. The power cycle and wokred again for awhile. Could be the 470uF/35V capacitor or 30V zener getting poorer as it warmed up.

Word of warning. From you photos it looks like a Power Line Derived type supply. Be very cautions if you are doing power on measurements. There is 120VAC floating around there and maybe tied to a logic supply. In the 2456S3 I know the +5VDC Logic supply and the + end of the Zener is tied directly to the 120 volt Line connection. It can be measured but caution is needed. J5 is probably the controller chips programming header it should have 5 volts  logic supply between the two outside pins. Again line voltage is floating around there.

I maybe able to look at one of mine and see if I can check some of the voltages.

[Brian H]

Took a look at one of my 2430 Rev 1.0 Controlinc V2 controller.
The rectangular 15 30 is a 30V Zener diode. To the right is a 5V Zener diode. If my measurements are correct.
Their markings are under the part and you can't see them easily.
On the J5 programming header. -5/common/AC line is the left pin. +5 volts is the right pin.
The AC Line Input is the common {-} power supply connection. For the +5V and +30V supplies.
C2 the 470uF/35V is probably across the 30V zener.
If either the 470uF/35V cap or 30V zener is shorted. Killing the +30 volts. The controller will be completely dead.
If the 30V zener is open and the voltage went high or the 470uF/35V capacitor has lost capacity . Not sure what may happen.
The burning on the PCB is from the 15 30 zener getting hot. I have seen similar marks on the 2456 modules. Some actually reported the diode fell of the pcb due to the heat. The copper in the runs may not be heavy enough to get the heat out from the diode. The 30V 5W one I used. Said you have to lower the rating if the copper runs are too thin to properly remove the heat from the diode.

Their are other components that could cause the controller to fail. Someone with a meter and knows how to respect the 120VAC on the supplies may find something  else.

 

 

[Teken]

Found an old picture of some of the hardware prior to its deployment. The T-1900 also indicates dry contact equipped, wireless T1119RF (T-1800 / T-1900), overall based on my limited usage very solid device.




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[matapan]

Thank you all for your suggestions. I performed the capacitor replacement as it was low hanging fruit. This did the trick.

[Brian H]

Glad you got it working.

The 30V zener always runs hot. I wounder if the low capacitance  of the 470uF/35V made it get even warmer. Due to higher ripple current.