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2477SA 240 Volt 30 Amp Dual-Band Load Controller Coupler.


Brian H

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While I was in the FCC database. I noticed a new Smartlabs ID. SBP2477SA

Since this is not even listed by Smarthome as even available for preorder. All is speculative.

 

From the internal photos.

Looks like 220 volts only. No Neutral needed.

Two versions one has NC contacts; one has NO contacts. The main board has a pair relays with both NC and NO contacts. Output wires have quick disconnects and at assembly the NC or NO relay contact is connected.

 

Dual Band as it also has a Access Point function also on the main board.

 

Something to look forward to. :D

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  • 1 month later...

Both the Normally Open and Normally Closed versions are now on the sales site with an expected ship date near the end of the month. Sales site verified. No Neutral needed. :)

 

http://www.smarthome.com/2477SA2/INSTEO ... and/p.aspx

 

http://www.smarthome.com/2477SA1/INSTEO ... and/p.aspx

 

http://wiki.smarthome.com/index.php?title=2477SA_Manual

 

It also looks like they are supported already as they show in the drop down list in the add a module tab of ISY.

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I guess only Smartlabs can answer that question.

 

It does seem that many of the new device are dual band.

Like many thought the originals having both RF and power line capabilities.

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Maybe Dual band refers to the ability to receive commands by RF or power line. Online manual says acts like a Access Point.

 

There are X10 devices that don't use a neutral. Just the X10 signal is on both lines. That said sometime it didn't work. Depending on how the lines where phase coupled. The signals could cancel each other. :lol:

 

Near the bottom of this page is some data on in and out of phase coupling with 220 volt modules.

http://jvde.us/x10/x10_couplers.htm

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I would think how the power supply was designed. If it was 220 only the need for a neutral should not be needed.

 

Some of the 220 volt devices like the Simplehomenet EZSwitch30. Use a 120 volt power supply including neutral and then a second relay for the second line.

 

I believe the 220 Volt SwitchLinc is a 120 volt switch that is also controlling a second switch or a internal relay for the other line.

 

I think the new 220 only device will be handy for things like water heaters that don't normally have a neutral in its power connections.

 

Since it has RF abilities both the NC and NO versions are in the FCC database. The prototypes of both show only one difference. The output wires are on the NC or NO contacts of the internal relays.

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I don't understand how the 220 switch will act as a phase coupler without a neutral. With 110vac switches the data is placed on L1 or L2 depending upon which one the switch is tied to with the nuetral being the point of reference. With the 220vac switch one line (say L1)is the point of reference for the data added to the second line (say L2).

 

Would it have to do with the power companies transformer windings feeding the house and or any 220v devices like clothes dryers which can act like a phase coupler when in operation?

 

Tim

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I never could understand why a neutral is necessary.

 

As far as I understand the neutral is needed for two-way modules. I.e. to be able to read the status of the device or to power a small LED on the device itself that device should have some small current flowing through it. So the current flows between HOT and NEUTRAL. Without neutral when it's OFF it's OFF (no current flows).

 

I could be wrong though, maybe it's just a matter of (bad) design.

 

Regards,

RUS

 

http://slashautomation.com

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The module just acts like an Access Point. Sends and receives messages and pass them on to others. Like those users that have more then two Access Points to add coverage.

 

Neutral is needed in a 120 volt module as it provide the power return to run the electronics. In this module each line is one side of the power feed and no neutral is needed to power the electronics. It is designed to run totally from 220 volts.

 

I did find the internal photos on the FCC web site interesting for theses modules.

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From the manual it sure sounds like you could place it outside...

 

Don't bury 240V Load Controller, any electrical cable or component connected to it. A buried power cord may result in electrocution if improper cables are used or if digging occurs over the cable.

 

Don't allow vegetation to grow on or around 240V Load Controller

 

Probably need to put it in a weatherproof enclosure.

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Yes I should say Outside Is Fine, just it is not weather proof, so it would need an enclosure as you say. I thought this rather silly as last 220v device from SH came in an enclosure, but required nuetral...one step forward then one step back

 

Joe

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