turbo2pointo Posted January 29 Posted January 29 I have replaced 15 single pole switches and 1 3-way switch before. I am trying to replace another 3-way switch, and I am confused about the wiring. I am hoping that some of the folks can help me. I have this multimeter if it's needed to check connectivity of the wires.
paulbates Posted January 29 Posted January 29 (edited) It appears that light fixture is coming into the first picture, down on the top right with the black and white wire. The left box is the j box that inteon switch controlling the load with its red wire will go.. red on the switch connecting to the black on the upper right. But.... I'm confused too, why black is connected to white on left wire nut. You're sure about that? The Insteon switch in the other box will not be happy, and likely not under warranty, if the black and white are backwards. Edited January 29 by paulbates
turbo2pointo Posted January 29 Author Posted January 29 The wire color can mean anything, it looks like. Not sure this helps but the existing switches are Levitons.
turbo2pointo Posted January 29 Author Posted January 29 If you have any suggestion to safely test the wires to figure out more information, let me know.
paulbates Posted January 29 Posted January 29 (edited) So do the following: Box 1 Upper right black/white wire pair. White to white bundle Black to Insteon switches red lead, cap together Upper middle red - cap off separately black to black bundle White to white bundle Insteon switch Red to upper right black as noted above Black to black bundle White to white bundle Turn on breaker and test... do the lights come on? If yes, add the switch to ISY Configure as dimmer if its an i3 and you want a dimmer Box 2 Cap red from box separately on its own cap red from Insteon switch separately on its own Black to Insteon switch black White to Insteon switch white turn on breaker, does switch show it has power, leds light up? If yes add switch to isy make it a dimmer if i3 and needed create a scene and put both switches in, setting them each as controller Test everything from both sides Push wires in, mount switch, etc, Edited January 29 by paulbates
turbo2pointo Posted January 29 Author Posted January 29 (edited) 55 minutes ago, paulbates said: So do the following: Box 1 Upper right black/white wire pair. White to white bundle Black to Insteon switches red lead, cap together Upper middle red - cap off separately black to black bundle White to white bundle Insteon switch Red to upper right black as noted above Black to black bundle White to white bundle Turn on breaker and test... do the lights come on? If yes, add the switch to ISY Configure as dimmer if its an i3 and you want a dimmer Box 2 Cap red from box separately on its own cap red from Insteon switch separately on its own Black to Insteon switch black White to Insteon switch white turn on breaker, does switch show it has power, leds light up? If yes add switch to isy make it a dimmer if i3 and needed create a scene and put both switches in, setting them each as controller Test everything from both sides Push wires in, mount switch, etc, Thanks, I will try your suggestion. Here is more troubleshooting: https://photos.app.goo.gl/7wAVUEzkEmz4qmbG6 Note: I said it wrong near the end of the video that the one with high voltage is Black. It's actually white as in the diagram above. Edited January 29 by turbo2pointo
turbo2pointo Posted January 30 Author Posted January 30 Thanks for the suggestion, folks. I took the risk and set up box 1 as single pole switch to test my theory of the wires destinations. Eg. attach the line to the switch, and the black from the top right to the load, and connect the neutrals as well, and it works as expected. Once I confirm that, I rewire them as in this picture, and it works. [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.support.getzooz.com/kb/article/1338-3-way-diagrams-for-zen73-zen74-zen76-and-zen77-switches/[/URL] One thing I still haven't figure out though is why both travelers have voltage when the line is connected to ANY one of the wires that go to Box 2, even when I didn't complete the circuit or connect another other wire.
Goose66 Posted January 30 Posted January 30 (edited) Ghost voltage in travelers on long runs in a 3-way circuit is common. Never used to show up in older incandescent lighting, but I have had problems with LED bulbs in 3-way (or 4-way) circuits where the line was at one end and the load at the other with long run travelers in between. Edited January 30 by Goose66 1
Goose66 Posted January 30 Posted January 30 (edited) Also, to clear up some confusion with the original photo, the black to white connection in box 1 is fine and normal in this type of circuit, except the white wire should have had a piece of black tape wrapped around each end (and particularly in the box 2) to signal to electricians doing after-work that the wire is being used as a hot wire. Edited January 30 by Goose66 1
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