4 Button KPL KeypadLinc frame file 3D Printer UPDATE07132013

[snownh2o2]

Update 07112013: pictures of the 4 button frame located below in post #5

 

Update 07132013: a link to the frame files is located below in post #6

 

 

 

While I am thinking of it, I just signed up for a course in October at the local community college to learn Solidworks and using 3D plastic printers. I currently only know the outdated (3D) AutoCad.

 

I have been wanting to build a RepRap MendelMax 3D plastic printer for a while, so I decided to learn to do it the right way. It will have tons of uses for my obsession to create. Two of them being related to the ISY.

 

The wall mounted Ipads ($200 w/ GPS on cowboom) that I am using for control pads look a bit too much like a picture frame. I am going more for the professional look similar to the bezel of the Russound TS3 will multiple curves.

 

 

More relavant, is that my KPL8s have been converted to KPL4s. Though not an Apple fan, I have recently been going for the less buttons that do more theme, rather that my old, more buttons that do less. Too confussing for other users. Since Smarthome does not produce a 4 button KPL frame, I am currently using 6 button frames. Hence the back lighting on the middle two button has a dark line through it.

 

 

On a side note, using blank buttons and adding a clear printed label is often spoken about in the forums. However many recommendations say that 1/2" tape is almost the same size as the KPL button. What I have found is the the 1/2" tape is a bit too small and over time, the edge of the tape collects dirt. Using 3/4" clear label tape with black lettering seems to be better. Fully covering the button and then trimming with an exacto blade solves the dirt issues if done correctly. Also note that the Smarthome buttons are printed with a dark charcole gray color. Label printed buttons will not prefectly match unless you do all of the buttons. I have yet to find a dark gray tape.

 

I will be scanning in the 6 button frame and modifying it to a correct 4 button frame.

 

Before I go through all of the effort, just checking to see if this has been done before. If not, get back to me toward November and I will likely be able to post a copy of the file I made for the 4 button frame. You will need to have someone print the part for you or get a 3D printer. DIY RepRaps are in the neighborhood of $400 if you are will to search around a bit.

 

Matt

[Brian H]

OH That looks very nice.

Thank you for the information.

[snownh2o2]

Just an update. I have taken my second Solidworks class, so we are getting closer to a KeypadLinc FOUR button frame. I am doing it for my class project.

 

I will also be doing a wall mount that makes and and ipad look like the Russound TS3. It will not be easily removable which is the point! If I design the model as the instructor expects me to, it should be easily adaptable for other tablets with only a few dimesion changes. I am building it for the gen1 ipad and maybe an old Galaxy Tab. The TS3 is $600-800 and has a limited single function. An ipad gen1 or older tablet is under $200 and does almost anything. Irule, Mobilinc, Weather, IPcam View, Traffic, News, and for $10 the Russound App is 300x better than their TS3!

 

Remind me if you don't see the file in the next month or so.

 

Matt

[Envirogreen]

any progress?

 

For the 4 buttons leveraging the 6 button frame, did you need to do any hardware hacking?

 

It sounds like you didn't make any changes to the frame but I wanted to confirm.

 

I'm very interested in doing this, but don't have the skill to start messing with the frames (I can get extra double buttons and include those for the middle two sections, but that is about the extent of my skills).

 

Would a similar approach work for the 8 button KPL?

[snownh2o2]

I have had the first prototype printed and installed today. Looks good so far. Used the same dimensioning as the ones that arrived on the KPLs however we may beef it up since the 3D Plastic is not as rigid as the molded was. Truthfully I think longevity will be a non issue, but it's also not hard to beef it up. As of now two modifications need to be made. On the KPL the center 4 LEDs have a surround on them the need to be removed with a razor blade. The surround focused the light source which is unwated in the 4 large button configuration. The second modification for my file would be tolerancing to allow for clear kits and colored backlights. This is a change that in am not sure that I will be making to the printed file as it can more easily be done to the small plastic lenses that are used.

 

Following are some pictures taken tonight. Picture quality isn't that good but they do look very good in person. I will post files CAD files sometime next week when the file has be updated for the ultimate strength. Again remember that the KPL itself needs a small DIY modification for nice even light on each botton.

 

Enjoy, Matt

[snownh2o2]

Below is a Dropbox link to the frame files that were used to make the 4 button KeypadLinc frame in the photos above. They are Rev#0. After a few days it seems to be working fine.

 

Also available are files for Rev#1. I have not yet printed this version. The differences are minimal. Some areas extra material was added for strength, however if you are using clear or colored lenses behind your buttons they will not work on Rev#1 without definite modification. Rev#0 may also have the same issue.

 

 

I forget if I mentioned this before, but even when using the new 4 button KPL frame there is a lighting issue on the center two buttons. The center 4 LEDs on the KPL have plastic surrounds that the out 4 LEDs do not have. These surrounds must be shaved off with a razor blade for the button to be fully and uniformly lit.

 

Please do any modification at your own risk, knowing what the consequences may or may not be; i.e. warranty

 

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/2282yhg34338xh9/Fyf8nWnWTn

 

 

Enjoy,

 

Matt

[arw01]

With no access to a 3D printer, have you considered selling "the service" of printing them and mailing them out? And I might like to try some crazy combinations of buttons.. Like 4 up top and 2 wide on the bottom.

 

Thanks

Alan

[snownh2o2]

Alan,

 

I haven't built my printer yet. I go down to the local community and use there printer or else have on of my two buddies print out stuff at work in free time.

 

I really don't have a way of selling or helping you guys out until I build my own printer which isn't likely until the slower winter months.

 

On a good note the 4 button KPLs look a lot better than the 8 and are much easier for unfamiler users to be able to figure out.

 

Thanks for the thank yous everyone,

Matt

 

PS...I have a file for 7in tablet wall mount bezels also. The shape hints at the Russound TS2 design and looks professional with some bondo to smooth it out and harden the shell, Then paint to match to your home. The frame fill may take slight modification depending on the exact dimensions your 7in tablet. Mine was a wifi version of the original model. I personally mount mine to the wall by counter boring 4 rare earth magnets into the back of the plastic frame, then I just screen 4 metal screws flush to the wall and it sticks very firmly. Power for charging can be snaked through a small hole behind the tablet or if you want to make it mobile, you can dissect a charger plug and the mount two pogo contacts to the wall.

[io_guy]

I haven't built my printer yet. I go down to the local community and use there printer or else have on of my two buddies print out stuff at work in free time.

I really don't have a way of selling or helping you guys out until I build my own printer which isn't likely until the slower winter months.

The Printrbot is also a good option for a home unit. I've built several of the original style and the new "simple" looks great (and cheap).

 

I would recommend making sure the unit you choose supports ABS and not just PLA. PLA is very brittle, especially for parts that see a little flex.

[snownh2o2]

I already have made some of the parts and have the extruded aluminum for the MendleMax which is a variant of the original RepRap. Resolution is down to 12 microns with 100 micron steps. Without modification it can be feed with most common filaments out there. I have seen mods for multiple filaments heads, though I have no need for that. Printable range is 9"x12"x9" and I have seen mods for bigger tables as would be needed to print frames for larger tablet bezels (ipads) without the need for printing them in separate pieces and welding them together.

 

I recall that since I already have a lot of the structural parts (extruded aluminum, bolts & brackets) lying around my personal shop, and since I can print the rest of the plastics required at the college; the motors, and other specialty parts will run about $400 to complete.

 

Matt

 

PS...I like the concept set forth by reprap. They built the first one to build the next two, which would build the next 4, and so one. Plus its open/free source and commonly chatted about

[io_guy]

PS...I like the concept set forth by reprap. They built the first one to build the next two, which would build the next 4, and so one. Plus its open/free source and commonly chatted about

I felt the same way however things have changed a little.

When the original repraps came out they were pretty much printed plastic and meccano.

Nowdays, to get bigger print areas and higher accuracy, they are extruded aluminum, steel, wood, etc. The amount of printing is quite a bit less.

 

My original reprap was "ok". But when I started using our commercial unit at work I couldn't go back.

The newer home-user models (with much less plastic) provide much improved accuracy (and the heated bed helps a lot too).

 

Don't believe the hype on .1mm@.012mm. This is simply the resolution of your stepper - the accuracy of a home extruder will not get you near that range for any consistent period, especially without a heated enclosure.

[WDB]

I want to thank the O.P. for posting these files, I just got a Robo3d R1 and will try printing one of these once I get used to using the printer.

My first attempt at printing ABS did not go well, I have seen where people state that a fully enclosed printer works much better for ABS to prevent warping.

 

I don't know why Smarthome doesn't offer a 4 button Keypadlinc option, they look much nicer than the others and using larger buttons makes it much easier for old farts like me to see.

[stusviews]

I want to thank the O.P. for posting these files, I just got a Robo3d R1 and will try printing one of these once I get used to using the printer.

My first attempt at printing ABS did not go well, I have seen where people state that a fully enclosed printer works much better for ABS to prevent warping.

 

I don't know why Smarthome doesn't offer a 4 button Keypadlinc option, they look much nicer than the others and using larger buttons makes it much easier for old farts like me to see.

 

In the interim, large buttons do fit the 6-button frame. A disadvantage is a dark vertical line where the small button separate (not shown, but see post #5).

 

[WDB]

Thanks, I have been using large buttons on a 6 button frame for a few years now, I just don't like the lines in the middle buttons.

[apostolakisl]

Update 07112013: pictures of the 4 button frame located below in post #5

 

Update 07132013: a link to the frame files is located below in post #6

 

 

 

While I am thinking of it, I just signed up for a course in October at the local community college to learn Solidworks and using 3D plastic printers. I currently only know the outdated (3D) AutoCad.

 

I have been wanting to build a RepRap MendelMax 3D plastic printer for a while, so I decided to learn to do it the right way. It will have tons of uses for my obsession to create. Two of them being related to the ISY.

 

The wall mounted Ipads ($200 w/ GPS on cowboom) that I am using for control pads look a bit too much like a picture frame. I am going more for the professional look similar to the bezel of the Russound TS3 will multiple curves.

IMAG0925b.jpg

 

More relavant, is that my KPL8s have been converted to KPL4s. Though not an Apple fan, I have recently been going for the less buttons that do more theme, rather that my old, more buttons that do less. Too confussing for other users. Since Smarthome does not produce a 4 button KPL frame, I am currently using 6 button frames. Hence the back lighting on the middle two button has a dark line through it.

IMAG0510b.jpg

 

On a side note, using blank buttons and adding a clear printed label is often spoken about in the forums. However many recommendations say that 1/2" tape is almost the same size as the KPL button. What I have found is the the 1/2" tape is a bit too small and over time, the edge of the tape collects dirt. Using 3/4" clear label tape with black lettering seems to be better. Fully covering the button and then trimming with an exacto blade solves the dirt issues if done correctly. Also note that the Smarthome buttons are printed with a dark charcole gray color. Label printed buttons will not prefectly match unless you do all of the buttons. I have yet to find a dark gray tape.

 

I will be scanning in the 6 button frame and modifying it to a correct 4 button frame.

 

Before I go through all of the effort, just checking to see if this has been done before. If not, get back to me toward November and I will likely be able to post a copy of the file I made for the 4 button frame. You will need to have someone print the part for you or get a 3D printer. DIY RepRaps are in the neighborhood of $400 if you are will to search around a bit.

 

Matt

 

Do you still have access to the scanner?  If so, CAD files on the buttons would be nice.

[WDB]

Do you still have access to the scanner?  If so, CAD files on the buttons would be nice.

 I tried making my own buttons today, the print lines show through when backlit and may do so if filled and painted.

I printed this with white ABS and it fits really tight on the stock Insteon frame, I have to try printing the 4 button file from this thread and see if it fits on it.