apostolakisl

did you try a reboot of the whole thing? I usually use putty to login (admin/admin) then enter the command "sudo reboot" Or if you want to really make sure, I believe the command is "sudo shutdown", let the unit shutdown and then pull power for 30 seconds.

If linking mode isn't working, then you either have a faulty switch or a seriously bad communication issue. You can try manually adding as per Paul, but I suspect that won't work. And if it does work, then it means something is wrong with the switch since it isn't declaring itself in linking mode. I assume you are holding the set button in long enough until the switch beeps indicating it entered linking mode.

Switching to a new, dual band, device usually fixes any com issues, especially ones that aren't horrible. My bet though is that the age of that switch is the problem, which of course is also fixed with a new replacement. I have found that the old single band devices seem to become less sensitive to the power line signal as they age. I have some very old devices that monitor power draw (I forget what they are called), but they don't make them anymore so I can't replace them. I use them to tell when the washing machine has finished. Anyway, as they got older, the com failure rate kept climbing until they stopped working altogether, but discovered if I plug it in directly next to the plm, they worked. I ended up using a dual band appliance linc that I plugged it directly into (in series) and that fixed the com issue. But the point is, it needed that strong of a signal, basically a couple inches of wire between it and the appliance linc as a repeater.

That looks like a nice all-in-one package. I could make one that does the same thing for less than $100 including the Insteon switch, but if you don't want to be troubled . .. Of course you still have to install the thing so you kind of are already being troubled. The contactors for HVAC equipment would be perfect for this and are only about $10 and a nice waterproof j-box can be had for about $15. The make these j-box's with mounting plates in the back which is real nice so you can just screw down all your stuff with no fuss and have it look all nice and neat. It wouldn't have the switch on the outside though, you would have to open the door, but they come with hinged doors, so no big deal.

theoretically, at some point we will get a http GUI that runs on the Polisy/Eisy box. Perhaps the Eisy will perform better when this task is layered on top? But I wouldn't think it would matter unless they really do something fantastic with the self-hosted web interface (like video and live action stuff vs just a console similar the java one).

I can't imagine what the mechanism could have been for Eisy to inhibit local manual operation of a switch. It was my understanding the local control of a switch was independent of any Insteon communication. Perhaps some flood of data between eisy and the switch upon pressing the button that swamped the switch cpu. It would have been curious to have watched the traffic on eisy.

I would start with one of your mis-behaving switches. Factory reset it and then restore it from ISY. Pull the tab out, leave it out for 10 seconds, then in one motion, push the tab in, all the way in, and hold it there for a good bit. The device will start to beep, don't let go, keep holding it in until the beep stops. That should factory reset it. Then go to ISY and restore it. I find it easier to use a butter knife to push the tab in and hold it with for the 10 or 15 seconds it takes to factory reset.

Thank you for that. The video only showed webhooks in the protect section, I assume nothing yet in access. I don't use ubiquiti protect, only network and access. EDIT: AS it turns out, I do "use" protect because they have integrated the door card reader cameras into protect.

I'm pretty sure on a 2477s, that if the led goes to the top, the load is on. Also, you would hear the relay inside click if it turns on. If both of those things happen, then I suspect the load is connected to a different switch.

When you manually walk up to the switch and click it. Do the led's on the switch rise up to the top indicating it should be on? Are you sure the load is connected to that switch and not another switch that you have in a scene with it? Certainly Insteon switches can fail and simply don't send power to the load. But if the load turns on when using Alexa, the switch is obviously not failed in that way. Some switches have failed where the tact switch no longer connects and thus when you push the button the computer in the switch doesn't know you pushed it. But that is a problem with much older switches and to my knowledge none of the dual band switches.

How do you transfer your settings from your phone to this? I have exported the ud mobile to my pc, but can't import them from blue stack emulator. EDIT: I figured out an easy way. I installed gmail in the blue stacks emulator and then emailed the file to myself and downloaded it from gmail within the emulator and then it was in the emulator download folder. Trouble is, when I tried to install the backup, it said there was a version conflict. I signed up for the beta version on my phone, I have now signed up for it in the emulator. Waiting to see if that works. EDIT 2: That worked.

This program will be false at startup (if set to run at startup). setting it to run at startup wont accomplish anything unless you intend to run the else clause.

Blank if will run true at startup if set to run at startup.

I would only add that the first time you need to manually run the first program. "run then". Since it is set to run at startup, any reboots will automatically get it going. As an alternative, you can install the time data node. Using that, you can have it run at a specific schedule rather than on a loop starting whenever the program first ran. In this case, no need to run at startup. Below is an example to run at the top and bottom of the hour, every hour. If 'TimeData' Minute is 0 minute Or 'TimeData' Minute is 30 minute Then Run Program '2' (If) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

One of my pool pumps uses LV signaling to set the 4 speeds. I use a CAI webcontrol board which outputs 5v on the 4 signal wires to set the speeds. CAI has a plugin node for ISY. I wrote some programs and created some shortcuts in my pool favorites folder to create "radio buttons" where you can hit any of the speeds and it will turn off any other speed that might already be on. If your pump is just a simple on/off because it either is getting power or not, then I would use a high current relay to switch the pump that uses 120vac for the coil and then use an outdoor Insteon switch to control the relay. That is how I control an aerator for my pond.