apostolakisl

Exactly. @Javi This has been going on for at least a couple weeks. It is consistently the same nodes that don't work while other nodes that seemingly should be identical work fine. The first place I noticed it is a perfect example. I have shortcuts setup for my garage door and my wife's garage door. Both are Elk zones (zone 22 and 34). On different expansion boards, but I don't think that is a reason. When the doors are closed or open I have to change the color of the icon from red to green. So I quickly noticed that the icon was neither, but rather the default blue. Every now and then, it would populate, say "closed or open" and set the color, but typically, just blue. My wife's door, always populates. It will populate on occasion. It seems like the way to have that happen is to have the admin console open or have UD mobile open, and then change the status of the node. It will populate, but it doesn't stay populated for long. Certainly won't stay populated if you close your session and open again. Here it is: And then there is also the 0 and 1 for Elk status instead of armed/disarmed/etc which, as far as I an tell, is a different issue with the newer firmwares.

I can confirm same on ud mobile. I switched to local settings and now it populates everything.

So I have isolated the problem to logging in via the portal user/password. Anything that uses the portal (UD Mobile and admin console not using port 8080). For example. This screenshot is from logging in using port 8080 admin/password @bmercier And simultaneously on another computer using the portal login.

Recently, perhaps with a recent update, elk module no longer reports any of my keypads, except maybe a parameter shows up and then goes away, and a handful of zones show no status. I see no pattern to the zones not showing. If I open elk rp2 all status is there. If I query, it might temporarily report voltage. I restarted the node which didn't help. I really don't want to delete and re add the node because of all the reorganizing I did with folders and names for the various things that would all need to be redone.

If the power flickering/going out/coming on, may have resulted in the switches shutting down and then booting up without the proper power environment leading to incorrectly set RAM(I assume Insteon switches have RAM). As we all know, power supplies have capacitors that keep our electronics running for a few seconds even when power is removed. But as the capacitors charge decays, the voltage and current supplied is sub-optimal. So power coming on for a second after shutting down and then going out for a second would allow the boot to continue but with incorrect power during that sensitive time of booting. That would be my guess as to why the flickering power resulted in misbehaving switches and a proper boot fixed it.

@Ross Yeah, those temp intervals are way too big to be of any use tracking a refrigeration system. Basically, it would only be helpful to tell me if the unit failed completely. Thanks for taking the time to look that up.

I just tried edge and it is the same. was using chrome.

I tried collapsing the folder tree down and after closing the first few, as soon as I clicked on about the fifth one down, they all popped back open again. Happens every time. Not seeing the same thing with nodes, but nodes aren't in folders. EDIT: seems to be a time thing. About 5 seconds after collapsing a folder, it pops back open.

Can you tell me if the Caseta control is cloud based or local?

Can you set the temp interval or is it predefined? I could make this work just fine if I could set it to something like .5 degrees F. Anything that takes a replaceable battery can be "hot wired" to an external power supply, I have done this many times, sometimes more invasively with soldering and whatnot, but usually I just cut a piece of dowl wood ~1/8 inch shorter than the length of a AA or AAA battery and drive screws into the ends that I use as screw down terminals for wires. I run the wire out a small notch I make in the battery door and connect to an external power supply.. For example, is something uses 2 AA batteries in series, I just put one screw in the end of each of 2 dowls and arrange the dowels such that it provides the 3v across the two correct end points. Then I plug into a 3v power source. 3v power supplies aren't so common, but they exist. If it is a 3 battery setup I will usually use a 5v power supply.

. I have 10 wireless tags and have never had to physically reboot any of them. I must be on at least 10 years on the oldest ones. I have had to do a "reset states" a few times. Though it has been a long time since that has been needed. Not sure if wireless tag changed something or just random timing. 4 of these are inside walkin coolers which are substantial 6 walled metal boxes and the signal gets through. I have all of them set to 30 second updates which gives me the resolution needed to track compressor and evaporator behavior precisely. Dealing with the refrigerator repair guy trying to tell you he fixed something and being able to prove he didn't has been very valuable.

OK. I really don't have any issues with wireless tags, except not working with ISY anymore, at least the one hub. I think I am going to hold off. Changing batteries once per year is really something I am not interested in doing. I have lots of these in various locations and hooked them up to USB specifically because I had no interest in running that situation down. I have two other hubs in other locations that are still sync'd to ISY and, provided nothing happens to PG, they should stay that way. Hopefully this authorization issue will get worked out at some point.

Perhaps. I have all of my wirieless tags on usb power so that isn't an issue. I have on occasion had issues where I had to reset the wireless tags for whatever reason which was annoying. I haven't had one of those issues in quite a while, though, so perhaps they fixed something in the firrmware. EDIT: I have the wireless tags set to 30 second updates which with it on usb power is no issue. I really like having the 30 second updates as I use these to monitor walkin fridges and freezers and having that smooth non-skipping temp graph has been very helpful in diagnosing issues. Will yo-link do resolution like that? And if so, will that kill the battery? I see they use 2x aa or aaa which is 3v. So I can't just plug them into the USB POE adapters I'm using for them now. I guess I could stop using POE and just plug 3v into the cat6 wire at the source and run that 3v directly into the battery terminals inside the units, but that is a lot of jury rigging. I also really like the wireless tag graphing they do on their app and website. Does Yo-link have all the features for zooming in/out changing scale and whatnot like wireless tag?

Seems to have fixed it, but I had to clear my browser cache. Initially I was getting a 404 error.

I can see my programs, but like the others, node status is all empty.