CPrince

I have found another way to go about doing this, but for the life of me can't figure out why it runs every other day at the correct time. Sunset is about 8:10 + 5 hours, Lights should go out at 1:10 AM. Everytime it fails, I look in the Next Scheduled Run and it is set for the next day.

@MrBillI have been trying to digest this. My first hangup was "Resource 'NotificationNS.DoorTrouble.FrontDoor'". What the heck is Resource? Afte a few days I finally figured it out by accident. So in this case "Resource 'NotificationNS.DoorTrouble.FrontDoor'" is a call to your HA? Is there any documentation for "Network Resources"? Looks like a lot can be done here. Since I don't know what this is I changed it to a Notify. Second: Is this a continus loop? Does it ever exit? Does it stop when it sees another hearbeat on or off? Back to the program I am messing with for heartbeat, it does work. I don't have to put the sensor in communication mode. The variable does not update the time/date becase it does not change. I think it always send a heartbeat on when working correctly. I pulled a battery out, 6 hours later I received a heart beat missed. I put the baterry back in and I received an all clear 12 hours later. In this case the time/date did update. It did becase it went from a 1 to a 2 and back to a 1. I am definatly going to be recording battery days for all my sensors.

@MrBillso I typed the message above yours, double tapped my front porch light (so as to turn off off the gate alarm program), opened and kept open my south gate to do yard work and went out to do yard work. An hour later I closed the gate. During the time I was doing yard work, I received a heartbeat and the variable , last changed, recorded the new time. Go figure. So just for fun I put one of my leak sensors in communications mode (holding the set button 3 seconds) and I got a heartbeat time update too. Let me set up some programs based on your logic and see what happens. I like the way you keep track of battery days and actual heartbeats missed. Eventually I could migrate some of the knowledge into the motion sensors. They have a battery % level. However this information is only available when plugged in of communications mode. Batteries just die with no warning.

Gate sensors are working fine as for sensors. Some other anomalies have come up. Heartbeat detection doesn't seem to work. I have plagiarized the leak sensor program from "The ISY994i Home Automation Cookbook". I have tuned it for the 2421 open close sensor. Since I am actually using the leak sensor program, I looked at the leak sensor program variables, in the last changed column and noticed they have not been updated in 28 days. So it seems to be my heartbeats are not being detected. My gate sensors have not changed in 3 days. So maybe I am not detecting heartbeats correctly? I am thinking that if the heartbeat never changes state, then it will never run the then. North Gate - Variable Control 2 - [ID 0080][Parent 006C] If 'Outside / North Gate - Heartbeat' is switched On Or 'Outside / North Gate - Heartbeat' is switched Off Then $sNorthGate = 1 Wait 25 hours $sNorthGate = 2 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Next, issue is my siren, 2868, output. I can make it chime, but not alarm. According to the guide chime is supposed to 100db and alarm 115db. Chime seconds don't seem to work correctly either. The number of seconds is directly related to how many chimes you get. I have tried messing with Armed Home and Armed Away before triggering the alarm. No difference. North Gate - [ID 0081][Parent 0001] If ( 'Outside / North Gate - Open' is switched On And $sGateAlarmOnOff is 1 ) Then Set 'Outside / Rear Deck Light' On Wait 2 seconds Set 'Outside / Front Porch Light' On Repeat 10 times Set 'Kitchen Area / 53.28.E9.1 Siren Trigger Home' On for 2 seconds Wait 2 seconds Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

@MrBillI really like your door sensor idea. I never saw a use for these. Too late now. I can buy a steak and dozen eggs, a Raspberry Pi or one of these sensors on eBay all for about the same price. I didn't buy enough 2843's either. I will just keep an eye out on eBay. For the time being I am just doing a "Fast On" and off at the front door.

@MrBillI totally agree. I have an old RemoteLink 2440 that looks like Dr. Will Robinson would have used in the 60's to control stuff when the internet is down. Too bad Insteon did not make better remotes, like X10. Those newer little ones are nice, but not practical. I use Alexa primarily for the voice commands. I too bought a garage door opener and a dishwasher. Both operate on yet another app. I did not buy them for connectivity. Connectivity came with them. Fortunately I don't really care. The garage door opener I bought because it has a battery backup. I was told I need WiFi for access buttons. I am like really? What happens to WiFi when the power goes out? I finally found a wired smart button/control panel to operate the door. Now the door is fully automatic. If I leave it open it closes in 10 minutes. Yes, it is safe too. I don't need for it to get any smarter. As for the dishwasher; am I really going to start it when I am at grandma's house? I haven't made up my mind on the blinds yet as I don't want another controller. If I go z-wave, I can keep it in house. I can go Zigbee but it would go to the cloud. I have not tried HA as I can't find a Raspberry PI for less than the price of a laptop!

Fixed the the intermittent problem. There were 18 links in the device. I did a "restore device". Now there are 4. Now it works as it should.

@apostolakislThanks for the routine. It has been driving me crazy for 2 days. It works, It doesn't work. Roll the dice. I tried all sorts of stuff. Messing with timing and delays. I was chasing my tail. I finally tied in my living room switch in addition to my dining room switch. Living room is spot on dining room is a toss up. Must have a funky dining room switch.

For a long time I have wanted to put gate sensors on my outdoor yard gates. I finally figured it out with a little help from Google too. With the use of a 2843-222, a overhead door contact https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LYD8CRK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and a outdoor box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MCZ17HW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 it is possible . This really works great. I check for a daily heartbeat to check battery and sound an alarm when the gates are opened. Anybody have an easy way to shut the gate sensors down when I am doing yard work or want to open the gates? I was thinking RFID tags and IfTTT (if ISY can support) or double tapping a switch. I know I can disable the program in ISY.

So I started working on "Fast On" and "Fast Off" commands to do rudimentary tasks like refilling the hot tub, turning on and off under the counter lighting, etc. It all works well. The only problem is the light switch used to issue the command will either go on or off based on the command. I would like it to go back to the current state. For example, If the dinning room light is off and I double tap the dinning room light wall switch on 2 times, the hot tub water will go on for 10 minutes. However the dinning room light was originally off and is now on. I have thought about querying the dinning room light every 5 minutes for its state and socking it away as a variable. I am already doing this to monitor a lamp in the living room. Any time the lamp is brighter than 30%, I have it switch to 27%. Believe me 27% just works perfect for these LED bulbs. BIG difference. To do this I have a routine running all day to catch this. Don't know how much the ISY likes this. I do have it set for 10 minute intervals.

I just thought I would throw this is. Groups in the Alexa App are nice. I made a bedroom, living area and lights group. All work well. For the past 2 days I have continued to pound my head a against the wall as to why I can't say "Alexa, kitchen on" or off. I can say Kitchen light, Kitchen lamp, freaking kitchen, but not kitchen. Well Alexa took the opportunity to create a kitchen group. Once I removed that group, I was able to say "Alexa, Kitchen on". I have never used groups before. I guess I could have added kitchen to the kitchen group, but I don't like unnecessary code. For some reason my commands just seemed to work in the past with the hub. Learn something every day.

@MrBill Thank you. I actually found an easy way after repeatably beating my head against the wall. Using the Alexa App, I put my 3 switches in a Group. Done. Now I will make a "Lights" Group, so I can turn off all the lights on the way out the door. I will finish reading your reply in a bit. It has a lot of good info in it.

We all know about the Insteon Hub. I started a discussion on this a while back; running the hub and ISY. The consensus was ditch the hub and and let ISY do it all. What is relay weird here is that my hub failed the day before the SmartHome pulled the plug! So I am porting all my stuff over to ISY and have Alexa integration working. Software is 5.3. I have a few things that baffle me. I have 4 dimmer modules in the living room and one no dimming wall switch. Their names are, Living room Left, Living Room Right, Living Room Corner, Living Room Reading and Living Room Fan. Then I have dimming switch Dining Room. Very seldom do I call the lights out individually. But I do. These all work right now with ISY. I know it is suggested not to name things this way. With the hub I used to say Living Room 50, Living Room 40, Living Room Off/On, etc. I don't remember how I did it. In turn Living Room Left, Right and Dining Room would do their thing. Ling Room Reading, Fan and Corner would not change. How can I do this with ISY? I also have a similar setup in the bedroom which I want to apply the solution too. Why didn't they just sell the servers to some 3rd party that could charge a subscription for usage?

Has anybody implemented a Z-Wave controlled window shade? I am looking to make a shade go down at sunset and up at sunrise. If not I am thinking I might just integrate with Alexa in a routine. Has anybody done that? Not looking for anything fancy. Doesn't it always start out that way? Nothing fancy?

Okay I think I figured this out. The wife finally left the house so I can test. Sucks to be a dog or a cat. Looking at the Status Icon for the Smoke Bridge Battery (seems the battery is tested during the test, but resets) and Test values, I noticed that they had a green bar. So I start poking around why? All others had red bars. It has probably been green for months, since I last did a test. So I queried it and it turned to a red bar. Did the Smoke Bridge test and presto, it worked. I added a wait and a query to my last lines to "reset" the Smoke Bridge. I also tested with with esl "Smoke! in a Can" and everything worked. This time I received a smoke alert instead of a test alert. I didn't seem to need the query here as it reset itself almost instantly. This is also proof that the wireless SCO500 works. So this is what I came up with. Smoke Detector Test - [ID 0058][Parent 0001] If 'Bedroom / Smoke Bridge-Test' Status is On Then Send Notification to 'Chris email' content 'Smoke Detector Test' Wait 2 seconds Set 'Bedroom / Bedroom Ceiling-Light' On Wait 2 seconds Set 'Bedroom / Bedroom Nightstand' On Wait 2 seconds Set 'Living Room / Living Room Right' On Wait 2 seconds Set 'Kitchen / Kitchen Light' On Wait 5 minutes Set 'Bedroom / Smoke Bridge-Test' Query Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

@lilyoyo1yes, there are about 6 options or more. Test, Smoke, CO, Unknown, All Clear, Low Battery, Malfunction. I was just trying to get one of them to work. I just did not know what logic to use. @xlurkrhttps://support.firstalert.com/s/article/Insteon-Compatibility this document states that First Alert SCO501CN-3ST is compatable. You can get it on Amazon, https://www.amazon.com/s?k=sco501cn-3st&i=tools&crid=3I3CHO4GRXJO8&sprefix=sco501%2Ctools%2C95&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_3_6 , for about $43. First Alert's list does not seem complete as my SCO500 wireless used to work and @Bumbershoot says he has used SA521cn-3st which is wired with battery backup. The SA521cn-3st is also on Amazon for about $40.

@Bumbershootthanks. So my code is good. Smoke Detector Smoke Detected - [ID 0053][Parent 0001] If 'Bedroom / Smoke Bridge-Smoke' Status is On Then Send Notification to 'Chris email' content 'Smoke Detector Smoke Detected' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') I need to test some more. I need people to leave the house so i can test. Then try new detectors.

@Bumbershoot, Oh I see that is is not battery, but battery backup.

@Bumbershoot, that unit is not on the approved list! LOL! https://support.firstalert.com/s/article/Insteon-Compatibility Amazon says it is battery? Battery is OK and preferred. Would you mind sharing some code?

@xlurkr, yes I went down that road too. I could not marry the First Alert to the Smoke Bridge. I spent hours and days on line. On the First Alert web site I found a document listing the only smoke detector compatible. https://support.firstalert.com/s/article/Insteon-Compatibility Mine, the SCO500,was not on it. There was a SCO500c or something which is no longer on the list. So I went to buy one and found that this is a wired smoke detector. Then I did more looking around and found that this SCO500c (or something, which is no longer on the list.) is the same as the SCO500. One is batteries and one is wired. So then I looked back through my documentation from 2013 and found that my old detectors were in fact SCO500's and they worked. I was using Insteon HouseLink software at that time. I went through my junk box full of Insteon stuff and dug up another Smoke Bridge. I did a factory reset on it, and linked it to the First Alert on the first try, no pun intended. Now when I throw the First Alert in test mode and look at the Smoke Bridge the green light flashes on the Smoke Bridge. The book says this means data is being sent. By the way the SCO501CN-3ST is approved and is available at Amazon for $43. I was hoping someone had Smoke Bridge up and running and could check my code before I drop $100 on more detectors.

I don't believe I ever configured my Smoke Bridge in ISY. I put it on the back burner for a while. I have a monitored alarm if there is a problem. In the mean time my First Alert detectors reached end of life. Yes, they lasted about 8 years and started throwing a code every few hours that they needed to be replace. So I replace them. I married the smoke detectors with each other and then married the last one to the Smoke Bridge. I set the Smoke Bridge up in ISY. All LOOKS good. The other day while the wife was cooking dinner she set of the smoke detector and nothing happened. This is my code. Is it correct? Under the 2 status drop downs there are lots of options. Maybe I should do this?

@MrBill Launcher fixed Thanks!

@MrBillGood to know about the USB/Serial PLM's. I am good for the rest of my life or 3 good lightening strikes, which ever comes first. Java is 8 update 321. Using Windows 7. Firmware and UI match in Admin console at 5.3.0. So that leaves us with the Launcher. After I flush the Java cache, files and shortcut to ISY Admin Console, I used to go to http://x.x.x.x/admin.jnlp. This downloads admin.jnlp. I run the admin.jnlp which repopulates the short cut and opens the console. Now I just click on admin.jnlp in my download folder after I have cleared the cashe and files. I am not sure what the Launcher is. . Is this the Launcher; it doesn't work since I did a Java update? I get some sort of certificate error. I used to always click on that with no issues until the Java update. This is what I get now....

@Mikes Yes it is getting scary that our systems rely on a single PLM. I wonder if there is a way to convert the USB PLM to serial PLM? I have 2 of them. I haven't doven in to the Z-Wave side too much. I have the Hubitat detected as several repeaters and a gateway. My next move is to attache a z-wave device to the Hubitat and see if it gets pushed over to the ISY. Funds are lacking. I have too much invested in Insteon at this time. Insteon actually has so many great features. As for the Java. It didn't used to bother me until I did a Java update. Now it is all messed up. I have to flush the Java in the control panel before I lunch the admin console every single time. It is beyond annoying. Then the Admin Console locks up with a "system busy". You have to bring up Task Manager to kill it. Busy doing what? Flush the Java reload the console and we go on for a while.

Anybody have a recommendation for a freezer failure sensor? My Smarthome Minotaur Engineering IFF1 Precision Freezer Failure Sensor failed and sent my about 2000 emails in a few hours. At first I thought it the IO Link. I swapped out the IO Link and it went crazy again.