johnnyt

Don't forget to consider that you (or someone else) might want or have to remove whatever insteon stuff you put in one day. Switches and bulbs are the easiest to "undo" and fix. Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

Could comm error messages, in particular like the ones that I get occasionally from motion sensors (this thread) but also ones from always on devices, happen because of network connection problems between the GUI and ISY? I'm wondering about possible network (LAN) problems that might be causing some issues and want to know if comm errors could be a symptom of that kind of problem.

One is not available and I don't particularly want to run the event viewer at level 3 all day in the hope of catching one of these infrequent events. Recently when I've run the event viewer at level 3 it's hammered my ISY to the point of causing performance problems. See viewtopic.php?f=27&t=11219 for more info. Is there another way, or just some possible causes?

Every now and again I get a dialog box that says ISY can't communicate with a motion sensor. Got one a few minutes ago and looked at the log entries (below) to see a whole bunch of good comms followed by some kind of error right after it reports ON then everything goes back to normal. I've separated the bad from the good using a "code" box. Basement / Rec Room Motion-Sensor Status 100% Fri 2013/04/12 04:49:26 PM System Log Basement / Rec Room Motion-Sensor Status 0% Fri 2013/04/12 04:50:31 PM System Log Basement / Rec Room Motion-Sensor Status 100% Fri 2013/04/12 04:50:40 PM System Log Basement / Rec Room Motion-Sensor Status 0% Fri 2013/04/12 04:52:09 PM System Log Basement / Rec Room Motion-Sensor Status 100% Fri 2013/04/12 04:52:16 PM System Log Basement / Rec Room Motion-Sensor Status 0% Fri 2013/04/12 04:52:46 PM System Log Basement / Rec Room Motion-Sensor Status 100% Fri 2013/04/12 04:54:16 PM System Log Basement / Rec Room Motion-Sensor Status 0% Fri 2013/04/12 04:54:46 PM System Log Basement / Rec Room Motion-Sensor Status 100% Fri 2013/04/12 04:54:50 PM System Log Basement / Rec Room Motion-Sensor Status 0% Fri 2013/04/12 04:55:46 PM System Log Basement / Rec Room Motion-Sensor Status 100% Fri 2013/04/12 04:57:05 PM System Log Basement / Rec Room Motion-Sensor Status 0% Fri 2013/04/12 04:57:35 PM System Log Basement / Rec Room Motion-Sensor Status 100% Fri 2013/04/12 04:58:00 PM System Log Basement / Rec Room Motion-Sensor Error 1 Fri 2013/04/12 04:58:01 PM System Log Basement / Rec Room Motion-Sensor Fri 2013/04/12 04:58:01 PM System -2 Basement / Rec Room Motion-Sensor Error 0 Fri 2013/04/12 04:58:55 PM System Log Basement / Rec Room Motion-Sensor Status 0% Fri 2013/04/12 04:58:55 PM System Log Basement / Rec Room Motion-Sensor Status 100% Fri 2013/04/12 04:59:28 PM System Log Basement / Rec Room Motion-Sensor Status 0% Fri 2013/04/12 04:59:57 PM System Log Basement / Rec Room Motion-Sensor Status 100% Fri 2013/04/12 05:00:25 PM System Log Basement / Rec Room Motion-Sensor Status 0% Fri 2013/04/12 05:00:56 PM System Log Basement / Rec Room Motion-Sensor Status 100% Fri 2013/04/12 05:01:12 PM System Log Basement / Rec Room Motion-Sensor Status 0% Fri 2013/04/12 05:01:42 PM System Log Basement / Rec Room Motion-Sensor Status 100% Fri 2013/04/12 05:01:53 PM System Log Basement / Rec Room Motion-Sensor Status 0% Fri 2013/04/12 05:02:48 PM System Log This is a well used motion sensor that fails (or should I say, generates an error) only a fraction of the time relative to how often it doesn't. There's no indication the battery is low, at least not from it's low battery warning. Also, the lithium ion "10 year" battery in it is only a few months old and I track it's usage through a variable (since the low battery warning has proven largely unreliable in my experience) so I know that barring a defect it's got a lot of life left in it. FWIW, the last entry in the error log is: Fri 2013/04/12 02:57:40 PM System -170001 [uDSockets] HTTP:32 error:6 What might be going on?

What would make me FEEL better is knowing why ISY crashed twice a month ago, once apparently deleting or corrupting the error log and once after filling one up within a few days. I thought maybe I was getting closer but I guess I'm not.

I've got HOURS of log entries about socket 27, 32, 33 and others but can't tell if all entries are about the same socket 27, 32 and 33 throughout, or if a new socket just ends up with an old number. Should I send you the ~4MB file for you to see? Alternatively, can you add an informational message that shows when a socket is dropped in the next beta?

Thanks for the info. I'm a little confused because I know I did not have the event viewer on level 3 for the entire period from Friday 2 AM until I restarted the GUI at 8:30 last night. I specifically had to change the level to 3 yesterday (Sat) afternoon to verify communications in my kitchen area so I know it was at level 1 for most of the time the log was filling up. Not to say I hadn't changed it to 3 at some point in the past but it was at level 1 between Fri 2 AM and yesterday afternoon. Maybe I'll do some testing to see if once the event viewer gets set to 3 it remains there for logging purposes regardless of what I set it back to subsequently. What about sockets not being active for extended periods of time? I looked back and 27 was not the only socket not active; there were several others in the log file. I didn't review them all but a few I followed from start to finish were "not active" for 4-5 hours. Much of the time the log file was getting hammered with entries 3-6 times per second with only 1 or 2 second pauses in between. Is it ISY that doesn't close the socket or a subscriber to ISY? How do I find out which subscriber(s) is/are involved? This amount of logging of non active sockets has me worried there's a problem with my setup and I'm wondering if the problem is at the root of the two crashes I encountered less than a month ago (see viewtopic.php?f=25&t=11001), which remain a mystery and included both a lost error log file and a full (4.7MB) error log...

Last night I was noticing performance problems and checked the error log, a ~4MB file full of messages like this: Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:28 PM System -170001 [HTTP] Socket not active#2 27 Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:28 PM System -170001 [HTTP] 192.168.0.55:1465->80 Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:29 PM System -170001 0: GET-->/rest/vars/set/2/52/348 Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:29 PM System -170001 [HTTP] Socket not active#2 27 Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:32 PM System -170001 [HTTP] 192.168.0.55:1466->80 Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:32 PM System -170001 0: GET-->/rest/vars/set/2/58/1850 Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:32 PM System -170001 [HTTP] Socket not active#2 27 Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:34 PM System -170001 [HTTP] 192.168.0.55:1467->80 Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:34 PM System -170001 0: GET-->/rest/vars/set/2/59/2068 Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:34 PM System -170001 [HTTP] Socket not active#2 27 Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:35 PM System -170001 [HTTP] 192.168.0.55:1468->80 Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:35 PM System -170001 0: GET-->/rest/vars/set/2/61/2125 Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:35 PM System -170001 [HTTP] Socket not active#2 27 Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:37 PM System -170001 [HTTP] 192.168.0.55:1469->80 Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:37 PM System -170001 0: GET-->/rest/vars/set/2/51/181 Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:37 PM System -170001 [HTTP] Socket not active#2 27 Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:38 PM System -170001 [HTTP] 192.168.0.55:1470->80 Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:38 PM System -170001 0: GET-->/rest/vars/set/2/50/2468 Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:38 PM System -170001 [HTTP] Socket not active#2 27 Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:40 PM System -170001 [HTTP] 192.168.0.55:1471->80 Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:40 PM System -170001 0: GET-->/rest/vars/set/2/62/968 Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:40 PM System -170001 [HTTP] Socket not active#2 27 Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:41 PM System -170001 [HTTP] 192.168.0.5:11238->80 Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:41 PM System -170001 [HTTP] 192.168.0.5:11241->80 Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:42 PM System -170001 [HTTP] 192.168.0.55:1472->80 Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:42 PM System -170001 0: GET-->/rest/vars/set/2/60/2093 Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:50 PM System -170001 [HTTP] 192.168.0.5:11242->80 Sat 2013/04/06 08:34:53 PM System -170001 [HTTP] Socket not active#2 27 ...going back to Friday 2 AM Friday (about 42 hours worth) FWIW, at 192.168.0.55 is an Autelis RS232-to-ISY bridge reading data from my 1-wire temp/humidity sensor solution, and at 192.168.0.5 is the Admin GUI, which I leave running 24/7 Restarting the GUI fixed the problem. Does that mean it's what lived at socket #2 27? Are the entries happening at the same time related or unrelated and just coincidental? How do I find out for sure what lives at socket #2 27? Why doesn't ISY (or the subscriber to ISY?) close the socket after a period of time? Also, I understand from a previous post that having the event viewer at level 3 can fill the error log with these messages and I did have the event viewer at level 3 for a few hours yesterday afternoon, but before that (going back to 2AM Friday) it was at the default level 1. Does that mean the messages are warnings rather merely informational, as I understand they usually are? Finally, at what point (if any) does the error log drop the oldest entry to make room for the next one, e.g. is it by size or number of lines? Any info would be appreciated.

here's a thread on what I use: viewtopic.php?f=78&t=9840 if I was to do it over again (with the equipment I have), I would look at doing it like this: viewtopic.php?f=78&p=81828#p81828 the CAI board, which is very popular here so you would get good support, has only one humidity sensor. I would have needed 8 of them to do what I want to do

Ditto Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

If the distances in the attachment are to be believed, Z-wave, or at least the GE Z-wave devices, would be better in metal boxes than dual band insteon, at least in my limited real life testing of the latter.

Am assuming zwave devices, like insteon dual band devices, are not really for houses with metal junction boxes. Is that a valid assumption? Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

Tried a cfl bulb (40w equivalent) on a lamplinc and it kept going on and off on its own. Didn't let it go on and didn't try with different wattage. Just went back to incandescent. What's the big deal spending a few cents more per month on electricity when I spent $30+ on a lamplinc, not to mention several thousand and countless hours of my time (instead of earning more money by doing OT at work) on home automation? Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

Been seeing this happening for a long time. Thought it was a "feature" and didn't like it but didn't post about it. I have a bunch of notification programs I use for troubleshooting io linc program behaviour (and iolinc h/w behaviour problems) in the absence of more sophisticated built in program logging. They end up taking up a lot of my inbox whenever I enable them because I query my 9 hvac related iolincs every time there's a change in heat, ac or fan call (triggered by sensor or the X10 I also programmed the io linc to send) and at regular intervals as a fail safe. (Unfortunately the sensor doesn't always tell isy it has changed state - or at least didn't always a while back when I set it up) Anyway, notifications get sent even though status didn't change. Until there's better built in program logging, these notification programs are actually something I'd like to be able to leave on to catch problems early but it just causes too many unneeded emails right now. Too bad I didn't post about this issue when I noticed it moons ago, but glad to see it's something that will be fixed. It is making me think I should check on why the sensor trigger isn't working sometimes even when comm is a healthy 3 hops / 2 left in case it's a bug too... although that's probably not an isy bug if it is one?... Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

I thought the antenna was the small spring like metal wire near the top at the back. Sorry I don't have a photo. If not, what is that thing? Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

Just thinking about this again. Could one open up a dual band KPL and add a piece of (insulated) wire to extend the antenna all the way out of the junction box? I seem to recall from something I heard or read eons ago that antenna length needs to be a multiple of the wavelength for best result. Provided one adds a length that results in a multiple of the length of the current antenna, would that work? I'm hoping some RF experts in the crowd can either validate this idea or save me from voiding my warranty for nothing. Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

double post deleted

yep, they are whole house ventilators. HRV = Heat Recovery Ventilator ERV = Energy Recovery Ventilator - as well as recovering heat (or cool) that leaves the house it reduces the humidity coming in - more appropriate for hot climates that run AC most of the year. EHV: not sure Turns out I do also have a 4 inch vent to outside in the furnace room (no damper in it) to prevent negative pressure pulling flu gases back in (only a problem with hot water tank now but original furnace was not power vented either). Didn't know what they called that. I wish our HRV was dedicated and pulling air from bathrooms, kitchen, etc. but it just pulls off the cold air plenum about 5 feet from the furnace and feeds new air back in close to the furnace. Obviously the lobbyists were able to get some profit maximizing concessions right from the beginning. The furnace I have today has a DC motor and the fan is interlocked to run on low (about 50W) with the HRV. On a side note the furnace is actually plugged into a UPS with an extra battery as it only takes about 300 W on stage 1 heat and worse case 700W on stage 2 (not needed for maintaining the temp). When power goes out I set the stat back a degree or two and have heat for about half a day to a day or more without electricity depending how cold it is, of course. But I digress, so I'll leave it at that.

Hi IM, My comment about the 90's for HRVs and mid 90's for bathroom fan was related to the building code. The builders lobbied hard when HRV's were added to the code in the early 90's and won, hence the change to the much cheaper bathroom fan idea. Maybe one can get an HRV in a current build but it's not minimum so probably costs extra. I do think they are the "latest and greatest" and would put one in if I had a house built today, but I confess to not knowing anything about makeup air valves and fans that passively heat the air. I don't have much concrete data to help with your cost/benefit analysis of an HRV. I personally think they're worth it but I'm not totally motivated by the bottom line. It is kind of expensive where I am to have one installed (about $1200 for a "value" model - which is all you need IMO - and $2K+ for a higher end unit with fancy controls, 5 speeds, etc.) so not sure that the pay back period is particularly short. Maybe if you have an electric furnace but right now natural gas prices are really low... I ended up replacing the original builder installed one myself a few years after we moved in. More on the reason why in a second but it cost about $900 2 years ago for all the pieces (plus my labor). I did get a slightly better unit (though not a high end one) and did a much better install job than an contractor would have, including putting in a high end backdraft damper http://www.tamtech.com/store/backdraft- ... tegory.asp. I will mention that finding one with dry contact capability for HA control was a little hard. Not many vendors/models. I also had to find a reseller that didn't mind selling to a regular guy - I'm not an HVAC contractor and the whole industry seems to be kind of a racket up here. I've actually had to buy a lot of my HVAC stuff, like duct dampers, etc. from the US. Fortunately not the HRV though. I went with this line http://www.lifebreath.com/compare.php?id[]=26&id[]=27 (RNC10 in my case) from http://www.enmarsystems.com that I've had good after sales service from. I saved about $150 by not buying the control unit and a dehumidistat. (I might have to do something there when I sell the house if I don't leave the ISY behind.) The main reason I replaced the builder one was because it had a heating element in the intake port, instead of a damper recirculation mechanism. I don't think they do that anymore but did in 1992 when my house was built. So in winter, a 1200W electric heating element was running probably most of the time that the HRV was running (I used an appliance linc to only run it a few hours a day). In my opinion, the heating element kills the business case entirely. Without having done the math, I think I would have been better off opening a window and letting the gas furnace do the work of heating the air than running the HRV. Heating my ~2300 sq ft house currently costs about $700/year (and winters are cold where I am). That wasn't always the case, of course, and may not always be the case in the future. Hopefully some of this info helps. I always read / appreciate the advice you post to this forum. By the way, what are makeup air valves?

Good point, IndyMike, about the different humidity level at lower "set back" temp. I'll give my automation some thought around that. I don't use set back at night but do use it (a little) during the day. Plau, if your house is older and leaky, when it's below about freezing (+/- depending on how much it leaks) dehumidification happens all the time when your humidifier is not running. In Ontario and maybe Quebec and other places in Canada (and northern US?) if your house is newer (early 90's +) it was built air tight with either a Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV) until about the mid 90's or a relatively big (150-200 CFM) bathroom fan with a "Vent" switch near the thermostat after the mid 90's. If you have a newer air tight home you're supposed to run the fan or HRV to bring fresh air in so there's natural dehumidification happening with the need to bring in fresh air - and arguably no additional cost attributable to dehumidification unless you're overdoing it. I frankly don't know how much you need but I go for about 8 hours / day in spring, fall (when there's minimum "stack effect" venting your house naturally) and somewhat less in summer and winter. My HRV has dry contacts that I use to turn on to low or high IO Lincs. I don't know the Viconic products or the Honeywell Prestige - do they control HRV's and bathroom fans?

A typical (non dimmable) CFL bulb in the lamp would not work with a dimmer. Don't forget to take it out or replace it with a KPL relay when you move (if you leave the HA behind) Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

I don't know that dropping below 40% is dangerous. In fact at 0 F / -17.7 C the recommended humidity is 25% according to the guide that is on the humidistat that came with my furnace. It's not great for things like pianos, guitars, and sinuses (which is why you want a humidifier in the first place) but that's the proper humidity level to keep the air that's leaking out various holes in the winter from turning to water in the walls and, eventually, mold. I also think that if you didn't have a humidifier - or didn't run it as is probably the case in many households - you probably end up with humidity levels in the 15% range in many older poorly sealed houses from the drying effect of both the furnace and the cold air leaking in which tends to end up being very dry when it warms up to room temperature.

I have a forced air furnace with a flow through bypass humidifier, AC, and a thermostat I can control with HomeSeer right now but plan to move it to ISY. I've successfully (after some tweaking for sure) automated humidification, dehumidification and general venting. I made sure where fail safe was needed that if the relay(s) involved were off due to failure or a blown fuse or whatever, no damage was done. I have one situation where I decided to override the furnace high speed trigger and I use the Normally Closed outputs on an IO Linc instead of Normally Open such that fan high speed is ON when the IO Linc relay is OFF. That fail safe is important during AC season. I use the thermostat to lower my cool set point down when the humidity is high in summer but the temperature would not otherwise call for cooling (I don't have a dehumidify feature on my furnace/stat combo.) You have to be careful using IO Lincs in scenes where it is reversed from the other ones but that's manageable (and will be using scenes when a bug is fixed in next release viewtopic.php?f=27&t=10499) here's a thread on my HVAC related set up viewtopic.php?f=48&t=10174 and here's a post on humidifiying in particular viewtopic.php?f=27&t=10621&p=80841#p80841

Have you checked out the Logitech Harmony Remote? For just controlling your IR devices in the same room, it's pretty cool. I've had one for about 10years now. I have not set it up to trigger any insteon lighting scenes but if you have the IR version of the ISY, you can either put it into your entertainment unit or set up a remote emitter and program it to run a scene when it sees certain IR code(s). I haven't tried anything else so I can't tell you what the trade offs are but it does seem cheaper if you don't go for the top of the line remote. Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

How about an X10 universal module? It's like an IO Linc but with a "sounder" option. You can just use it as a sounder (chime) either in a momentary or steady on/off configuration. I put one in my daughter's room set to momentary as part of her alarm clock "system" that starts by brightening her light slowly then ISY sends 3 X10 ON commands 3 secs apart. Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk