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I have a 994 with a Portal subscription and the ELK security module. I'd like to arm my M1 via the Echo. Is this possible?

Update: I fixed it. I logged out of my Amazon account on my phone, and then deleted the cache on the Alexa app. I then logged back in, and it magically worked.

Is anyone else experience problems logging into the Alexa app on their phone? Mine seems like it's stuck in some kind of a loop. I tried uninstalling the app and reinstalling it, but it didn't help.

I have no personal experience with them, but Smarthome makes a load sensing module called the SynchroLinc. It can be used to create custom triggers based on power state. It sounds like this might be exactly what you are looking for .... http://www.smarthome.com/synchrolinc-insteon-2423a5-power-synching-controller.html

One other caveat - if the failed device is in a sub-folder, I believe you will have to move it to the main folder before you can replace it.

Can you please elaborate on this. What are "Pushover" notifications, and how do I set them up? Thanks!

That's what I figured. I doesn't peel off that easily, though, so I thought I was perhaps trying to remove something that wasn't meant to be removed.

The film doesn't actually cover the sensors. I tested the unit, and it works fine with the film on.

I just picked up a bunch of leak sensors (2852-222). I noticed there is a clear plastic film on them from the factory. Is this supposed to be removed before deploying the sensors, or is it there to protect the electronics from moisture?

Some great ideas in this thread! I can't believe how much Smarthome charges for the custom etched buttons. It's basically highway robbery.

I'd like to add a deadbolt to my house that I can control with my ISY. I see that Smarthome makes an Insteon lock controller that is compatible with MiLock deadbolts. Are these any good, or am I better off going with some type of Z-Wave deadbolt? Edit: I did a little digging and found this thread: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/17788-deadbolt-recommendations/?hl=deadbolt I probably should have searched better before asking this question. It looks like the Schlage BE469 is probably my best option. What exactly will I need to integrate this lock into my system? I assume I need to add Z-Wave capabilities to my ISY. Is there any other Z-Wave infrastructure I'll need to add, or will the Z-Wave module allow the ISY to directly communicate with the lock?

Don't get me wrong, I think a Dot in every room would be awesome. I was just saying that this remote doesn't seem like it would be quite as useful if/when they allow voice control via the app.

If they enable this feature, then a remote like this seems like kind of a waste of money. Once you can control the Echo from your phone, it will essentially give you full home voice control with a single Echo. The only reason I can see Amazon not wanting this is that it would potentially cannibalize sales of the new Echo Dot.

Can you speak to / control the Echo from the phone app?

This is great news! The Dot is the perfect product for ISY users looking for a less expensive way to add voice control to more rooms. I'd order one right now, but unfortunately I don't have my Echo yet. I ordered one 10 days ago, but they are out of stock until the 12th. Amazon must be selling a crapload of them.

That worked perfectly. Thanks, dude!

I was wrong. It was actually a 2476D dimmer. I'm not sure when it was made, as there doesn't appear to be a date on it anywhere. One sticker says 2476D with "0826" below it. The other sticker says V4.0 with "5546" below it. The dimmer started acting weird and would sometimes become completely unresponsive. It also would randomly lose communication with other devices. I tried resetting it, but it didn't help.

I have a scene that I'm using as a virtual 3-way circuit. The scene contains two dimmers. One is a 2477, and the other is an older 2476. The 2477 is directly connected to the load. Both dimmers are designated as controllers for the scene. Everything works as it should, however, the status lights on the 2476 do not change when I control the scene from the 2477. I have tried removing and then re-adding both dimmers to the scene, but it did not solve the problem. Any thoughts?

Thanks for all the help, guys! It worked like a charm. I didn't read this until after I had done the swap. Fortunately, I gave the new device a different name. The original device was called "Island Lights", and I named the new device "Island Lights - TEMP" It just seemed like an easy way to keep track of it.

Thanks! Just to be clear, once I have added the new switch to the ISY, I right click on the OLD switch and replace it with the new switch? Will it automatically remove the old switch from the ISY once it moves everything over to the new switch, or do I have to delete it manually?

I have a 2477 dimmer that is starting to act flaky. The switch is currently part of quite a few scenes. How do I swap it for a new one in the ISY without having to manually re-do all the links?

I cannot find this file on my system anywhere. I tried the exact path you listed, and I also searched my entire drive for isycontrol.exe.

Yes. I can access the ISY using the https address, but the admin console still acted the same.

I assume you are using MobiLinc to control your devices. As others have already pointed out, you have to turn the devices on and off via the scene if you want the switches and KPLs to stay in sync. If you want to directly control the device itself from MobiLinc and still have the KPL button stay in sync, you will indeed have to write a program.

I tried the https suggestion, but it did not help. I'm glad it's working better for you now. Where can I find this this setting? I searched through the list of allowed programs in Windows Firewall, and I couldn't find any mention of the ISY. I also couldn't figure out the proper path to manually add it. I'm running Win 7.