rgn2000
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Everything posted by rgn2000
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Well I have no idea what's going on. I changed it another Gmail address I have this morning and the test worked. I changed it back to the Gmail address I have been using all along and now that test worked. Bizzare.
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I don't see anything there to really try. I already mentioned that I tried a Yahoo account and that didn't work. The thread doesn't mention what the port number is supposed to be for non-Gmail accounts, so if you have any insight there, that would be great. I didn't have a "name" in the From field, but I did add one and then remove it and it didn't work with either change. I also already had Less Secure Apps enabled in my Gmail account. One thing I did just try was that I changed to the Default email account and the test did work.
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Thanks for the link, but it seems as though my error is different than most of everyone in that thread. I think only one person mentioned the "18" error. " Those issues were from November of last year and I never had a problem until 4 days ago. It doesn't make any sense.
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First off let me say I am still running an ISY99. I just haven't made the change and since I have a rather simple system and things always work, I just haven't bothered to make the switch. About 4 days ago, I stopped receiving my email alerts. I am using my own Gmail account and I haven't made any changes. The password is the same, as well as the account info, and I have 1000 ms for timeout and port 587. I also haven't changed my router or settings whatsoever. If I try to run a test, I get TLS Negotiation Failed. If I turn off TLS, I get Unsupported Authentication Method. In looking at the Error Log, I have the following when a message is attempting to be sent..... Mon 2016/06/27 11:50:01 AM System -170001 [Network] Established Mon 2016/06/27 11:50:13 AM System -50001 -18 I have also tried a Yahoo account with the same exact result. Any ideas as to what could be going on??? Thanks for any help
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Now that my KeyPadLink is up and running )http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/14350-controllers-keypad-and-switch-losing-contact-with-receiver-switch/),I would to do a some programming. I have done some searching, but I can't seem to figure out if this can be done...... The KeyPadLink will control various lights in my basement. The main On/Off controls the main lights (no load connected), but I was wondering if it's possible that the main OFF button could be programmed to be an All Off? In other words, I want the ON button to just turn on the Main lights, but the OFF button to be an "All Off" for all the lights. I plan on reserving one or 2 of the KeyPadLink keys to some party scenes, which will turn on more lights, but since the main OFF button is the easiest for everyone in the family to hit, You see, the majority of time I enter the basement, I only need to the main lights to turn on so the Main On switch is obviously perfect for that. However, when we're entertaining or we just happen to turn on other lights, I want the main Off button to just turn everything off. Is this possible?
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I decided to keep it simple and get the FilterLinc. Things appear to be working fine. I haven't seen one error yet. Sometimes it take an extra 1 or 2 seconds to turn off, but all seems well. Thanks again everyone.
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How does that XPNR Pro Noise filter work. I put that in the electrical box behind the SwitchLink? Is there room for that?
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I just wish it was a little lower profile. These outlets are higher up on the wall to accommodate neon signs so that the cord doesn't have to go down to the normal height for outlets.
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Do you mean this? http://www.smarthome.com/filterlinc-10-amp-plug-in-noise-filter.html
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Well I didn't need to unplug all of them. Based on your guess that one of the lights could be causing some sort of interference, I deducted that it would probably be the one closest to the switch. I unplugged and it seems to be working fine. I guess I can be 100% sure, but I toggled On/Off about 10 times without a failure, which is something that never happened before. So the now the question is if there is any kind of solution or am I SOL? It's a rec room, and based on my layout, I really don't want to move that particular sign.
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On/Off - no dimmer.
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The load is a few outlets and plugged into the outlets are neon lights. The problem doesn't happen at all with the SwitchLink (2) that is on the same breaker and leg. Only the KeyPadLink has an issue, but it's not always. I would say 1 out 4 times it will fail.
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Well it seems as though I am still having an issue with the problem I originally posted about. The KeypadLink will periodically fail at turning off the power, but it never has an issue with turning it on. If you remember, I have the scene setup as follows.... SwitchLink (1) with the Load connected SwitchLink (2) with no Load connected on same power supply as SwitchLink (1) KeypadLink with no load and on the opposite leg of both SwitchLinks. Whenever I run a Scene Test, it always is successful, so I am not sure what's going on here. One other thing to add is that when I do tap the KeyPadLink to turn it off (when it doesn't work), the SwitchLink (2) also shows as Off so the communication is there. And while the KeypadLink was on (before turning off), the SwitchLink (2) shows as On. So again the communication is happening. However, the SwitchLink (1) remains On and I have to turn it off from that switch or I can flip SwithLink (2) to On which does nothing, but than flipping it Off would indeed turn it off. An obvious communication issue, but the Legs are coupled.
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Looks like I didn't do the factory reset right. I still needed to push the button in until the tone stops. So I did a complete factory reset and it's working. I was also able to set it to "fixed brightness" and it works fine with the ISY. Thanks for all your help guys.
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I think it's a dud. I just pulled the set button to factory reset it and now it's all messed up, At one point the lights were flickering and now the lights on the device itself don't light up and whenever I press the paddle it makes the same noise as when you press the set button. The interesting thing is that the ISY99 has no problems controlling it. I can turn the lights on or off no problem. If I hold the paddle down I can get the lights to come one, but I suspect it's defective.
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I am not manually linking anything with this issue. I am trying to remove "Resume Brightness" and lock it at "Fixed Brightness." I was told by LeeG that this is what I had to do. I always thought the ISY would take care of that stuff, be he said I need to follow this procedure......(from previous post) To set local on level to a fixed brightness level 1) Adjust SwitchLinc to desired brightness when controlled locally 2) Tap Set button SwitchLinc will beep 3) Test by turning SwitchLinc off and then back on (via the paddle) SwitchLinc will turn on to new local on-level Problem is that in Step 2, if I Tap it, I get no sound. I have to hold it for 2 seconds of so and I do get a beep, but it doesn't remove the "resume bright" feature. If I turn off the light and turn it back on it does go to the setting I had, but as soon as I go to 100% brightness and turn it off, it goes right back to 100% again. It's still resuming brightness to last used level.
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Why would the ISY have anything to do with it? This is something I am manually trying to do with the set button.
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Okay the SwitchLink in question is now linked. I generally link without entering the addresses, but I decided to give it a shot and the ISY found it and it's working properly. I did have to restore the SwitchLink that it was controlling and that's all set. So the remaining issue is the SwitchLink that will not set to Fixed Brightness. I guess I will call SmartHome and see what they have to say. I see how it works on my other devices so not sure why this particular one will not set.
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LeeG - What do you mean? Right side of what display? oberkc - I can't see the device in the admin panel. That is my problem. Now one more thing to add to this that I am not sure was an issue before, but it is now. Whenever I turn this SwitchLink in question On or Off, it turns on or off one of my Kitchen lights (an older SwitchLink). However, it doesn't appear to be a respnder since if I turn off the kitchen light, it doesn't affect this particular SwitchLink. These SwitchLinks are not on the same breaker (nor are they on the same leg). I have no idea how they could be linked unless somehow I was pressing the set button on both devices testing something and it's a coincidence. I tried doing a factory reset on the SwitchLink that I cannot link and it's still linked. I never did a factory reset before but I assumed it worked. I pulled the Set button (it doesn't remove completely), and I did notice the power was gone. I did it for at least 5 seconds (more like 15 seconds), but it's still controlling that other switch. Bizarre.
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Alright well that changed things. The units I bought were from eBay and although SmartHome branded, the packaging was different and the instructions were a copy of something that was either old or not official. However they are newer 2.0+ devices. So I went to the official instructions for the 2443 Access Points (Range Extenders) and looked up the instructions, and yes LeeG, blinking green is okay. So I can say that the 2 legs are bridged (4 tap test worked from both extenders) and it appears that the the original issue I posted about (the scene with the KeyPad from a different leg) is working fine now. However, that leaves me with two issues still open.......... 1) The new SwitchLink 2477D is still not recognized by the ISY. It's weird because it also happens to be on the same leg as the Modem, so even before I bridged the legs, I found it odd, not too mention SwithLinks on the opposite leg never had an issue anyway. With that said, could the unit be defective or do you really think it's because I am using an ISY99? It is a newer SwitchLink Rev 7.5, but I was able to successfully link another one (bought at the same time) with the same Rev 7.5, so it doesn't make sense. 2) Speaking of the other SwitchLink with a Rev 7.5 that I was able to successfully link, I still cannot seem to set "Fixed Brightness" on it. When I press the Set Button, the tone isn't right away. I have to hold it for a couple of seconds, but none of my other SwitchLinks are like that, even the other newer Rev 7.5 that isn't linking to the ISY. Could this unit be defective? Holding the Set button for those 2 seconds until I hear the beep is not setting "Fixed Brightness." Thanks for all your help guys.
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Any thoughts on my last two posts??? I also have another update - I just purchased 2 access points, and it appears I can't link them at all. The instructions say to plug one in and press the set button 4 times quickly and then plug in the 2nd access point. If the 2nd one stays on and is bright then I am all set. Unfortunately no matter where I put the 2nd one, it either flashes or it stays on constantly but isn't bright. Any thoughts?
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And now I was able to Run Tools > Diagnostics > Event Viewer at Level 3. I attempted to add the SwitchLink 2477D and here is the log....... Tue 10/28/2014 10:43:17 PM : Start Insteon Device Linking Mode Tue 10/28/2014 10:43:17 PM : [LNK-BGN ] 02 64 01 00 06 Tue 10/28/2014 10:43:23 PM : Stop Insteon Device Linking Mode, Final processing to follow Tue 10/28/2014 10:43:23 PM : [LNK-END ] 02 65 06 : : Unexpected, ignored (65) And yes, I am still on the 99i at 3.3.10. Note: It had no problem picking up another dual band SwitchLink with the same REV of 7.5.
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Okay, I was finally able to do the 4 step test using the PowerLinc Modem. I have 4 other dual SwitchLinks (2 on the same leg as the modem and 2 on the opposite leg). The ones on the opposite did nothing and the 2 on the same leg had flashing lights. One was flashing white and the other was flashing red. Incidentally, the one flashing red is the one that the ISY won't detect. Now in the instructions, it says......."If at least one of the dual-band device LEDs is blinking green or is bright solid white or blue, the device is on the opposite." Does this mean only the green color blinks and the others don't? Assuming it's solid white, that's what the 2 dual band SwitchLinks on the opposite legs were doing, but they looked the same as if the test wasn't conducted.
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LeeG, Yes, my breaker has two vertical columns. The left side ones are labeled 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, and so on and the right side is 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and so on. So, going down the left side..... Breaker labeled 1 - leg 1 Breaker labeled 3 - leg 2 Breaker labeled 5 - leg 1 Breaker labeled 7 - leg 2 Breaker labeled 9 - leg 1
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Oberkc - Isn't every other breaker each leg? Breaker 1 - Leg 1, Breaker 3 - Leg 2, Breaker 5 - Leg 1, and so on?