KeviNH

Try these instructions: http://homeautomationguru.com/accessing-isy-994i/ The problem is that the finder uses a broadcast to find the ISY, and your VPN is stopping that local broadcast from reaching the ISY.

Not at this time, but there is a feature request for that.

I would start by connecting directly from a computer serial port to the receiver (e.g. with Windows and PuTTY). Try sending a command like "*IRSETSR" and hit enter, see if you get a response. Then try sending something like "*ALLV-" to see the zone volume changes as expected. If that works, do the same thing, but use the network connection through the IP2SL and make sure it still works as expected. If that works, you can create a network resource on the ISY that connects to the same TCP port and sends "*ALLV-" and a carriage return, and it should work the same as when you typed the command by hand.

Looks good. Here's a few suggestions for next steps: I made a folder called "Simulate Occupancy" and added "Elk Area 'A1' 'Armed State' is Armed Away" as the folder condition, then I put a variety of programs in the folder, each with a different Schedule. That way I can fine-tune the activating condition (maybe I want a variable that prevents the lights from going on and off) by just changing it one place, on the Folder. If you're only switching lights and don't want any of these programs running while it is light outside, add schedule to the folder condition starting 1 hour before sunset, and ending 1 hour after sunrise. For any device or Scene you add to the "Then" actions, Consider adding corresponding "Off" action to the Else clause. This ensures that when the program ends everything that was turned on gets turned off, even if the program is terminated in the middle of execution. Your program sets the maximum On duration at 1 hour, and a minimum on duration of 0 seconds. If you want to ensure that each light is always on for at least 5 minutes, do this: Wait 5 minutes Wait 55 minutes(Random)

A Network Resource needs a hostname or a specific IP address to send to, so you definitely want to set static IP addresses in any device you intend to address from a Network Resource. If you have a higher-end Internet router, you may be able to configure it with "DHCP reservations" to the same end result -- the living room sonos always has the same IP all the time.

The problem is that when "Garage Door-Sensor' changes status to Off while the wait is in progress; this event immediately causes the program to be re-evaluated. Because it is false, it stops the wait and the program is ended before it can get to the "Off" command. Here's a quick-and-dirty workaround to ensure the light gets turned off: If Status "Garage Door-Sensor' is On Then Set 'Garage Near' On Wait 5 minutes Set 'Garage Near' Off Else Wait 5 minutes Set 'Garage Near' Off There are cleaner ways to accomplish exactly what you want, but all the approaches I know of require creating a second program.

I know of three less expensive options, assuming you already have the Portal or Network module: Any computer with a spare serial port (assuming it is always turned on), can be a RS-232 bridge with a bit of free software. If you're feeling ambitious, you can match (exceed, really) the RS-232 functionality of the +$90 Global Caché IP to Serial with a $35 ($50 with all accessories) Raspberry Pi. f you or a friend already know the Arduino SDK, you might prefer the $25 EzSBC "ESP32 Dev Board" with WiFi and 3 serial UARTs built in -- add level adapter chips and you have a 3-port Serial-to-WiFi adapter at half the price of a single Global Caché. OTOH, there's no shame in paying the hefty premium of Global Caché if you need their plug-and-play operation, warranty, and great technical support. If I was setting up HA for a customer, I would likely go with a product like this instead of rolling my own with an ESP32.

Something like: If Time is Last Run time Heat-Tape-On + 12 hours And ( 'Heat-Tape / Heat-Tape-Back' is On Or 'Heat-Tape / Heat-Tape-Front' is On Or 'Heat-Tape / Heat-Tape-Side' is On ) Then Set 'Heat-Tape / Heat-Tape-Back' Off Set 'Heat-Tape / Heat-Tape-Front' Off Set 'Heat-Tape / Heat-Tape-Side' Off Personally, I use a variable $s.Heat_Tape_Needed, set it to 1 while weather conditions warrant their use.

It used to be that StartSSL was a way to get free 1-year certificates, but Startcom is becoming less trusted in browsers now. I usually use my own private CA, and import it as a trusted certificate on my devices. This takes a little more effort, but you can issue yourself 5-year (or longer) certificates and the price is right.

Comcast is forthcoming about what inbound ports they block, see https://www.xfinity.com/support/internet/list-of-blocked-ports/ If you want to set up an port forwarding for inbound connections, choose a random high port. You can run HTTPS on any port you want. ISY Portal does not require any inbound ports open nor port forwarding; when using the portal your ISY994 connects outbound to the cloud server.

As an alternative, has anybody done any work with electromagnetic locking systems? Obviously the biggest downside to these is that they need a bypass option to be code-compliant (OSHA, etc) and always will "fail safe". Any other considerations when looking at using mag locks with an automation system?

Easiest option is to give the Smartenit EZSnsRF a chance, but bear in mind Smarthome's 30-day refund policy. If you just need one channel from the Dakota, you could buy the DCR-2500 and an Insteon wireless open/close sensor and connect the two with a short piece of low voltage wire and some double-sided tape. Kind of like this.

Seem Ninety bucks!?! Hopefully the price for a WiFi->IR module will come down soon. Funny that you can get the same WiFi connectivity at less than half the price by using a Raspberry Pi 3, an IR expansion board, and LIRC. Or you could get the cost down around ten bucks with an NodeMCU or ESP8266 solution. (google “esp8266 ir” or "esp8266 ir station") Looks like there are pre-written ESP8266 packages to make it easy to have Network resources with TCP to send any arbitrary IR code you like from the ISY994. Hopefully somebody will roll these together with english language instructions and sell them at around the $19.99 price that the Chinese-language-only units go for.

Another option is to have a program that is "True" if the program you don't want to re-run has been run recently, and check the program status as part of your conditions: Dehumidify ran recently - [ID 00A8][Parent 00A1] If From Last Run Time for 'Dehumidify' To Last Run Time for 'Dehumidify' + 1 hours (same day) Then Wait 1 second Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Program logic to not run again if Dehumidify ran recently looks like this: Dehumidify - [ID 00A7][Parent 00A1] If Program 'Dehumidify ran recently' is False ...

The power LED is not software controlled, and does serve a useful purpose -- if the ISY power supply is faulty, the power LED will go dark or just faintly lit. There are some Layer-1 approaches to reducing the brightness, see this thread: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/20474-isy994-power-led

You can do this with a separate program. I moved "Open Starboard Garage Door" into a program of it's own, which opens the door, updates a variable, writes a log, etc. This program gets called from anything that wants to open the door. Then I made a program to track if the garage door opening program ran recently: Starboard Garage Door was opened within 15m - [ID 00E2][Parent 00E1] If From Last Run Time for 'Open Starboard Garage Door' To Last Run Time 'Open Starboard Garage Door' + 15 minutes (same day) Then Wait 15 minutes and 1 second Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Now you can add an additional condition to any program which wants to open the garage door, like this: And Program 'Starboard Garage Door was opened within 15m' is False The condition is False if that garage door was not opened in the last 15 minutes.

I was thinking of doing the "hang a tennis ball from a string" parking aid, but using a triggerlinc.

Perhaps look at the problem from the other direction? A beacon or other mechanism detects if her car is already in/near the garage. Geofence application on her phone (e.g. IFTTT) triggers an event when she enters the immediate area. So if her phone enters the area, and her car isn't already in the garage, then open the garage door.

If your car has a USB port designed to work with Apple music players, maybe just get a cheap used iPod touch and leave the wifi turned on?

You can use the "-x" option (e.g. "bash -x scriptname" or at "set -x" near the top of the script) to run the script with tracing so it shows you execution progress as it runs, this will often show where things are going off the rails.

Pretty sure OP is saying the BASH script is constantly looping -- 'bash' on rPi is not event triggered. He could enable a network service on rPi and have ISY make a network resource call out to the Pi when the event is triggered, but that requires considerably more advanced skills to build.

This works fine for setting $Home=1 when I arrive at home, but IFTTT falsely detects a disconnect randomly in the middle of the night, ( Due to Android turning WiFI off when charging is complete and phone is asleep). I could disable the feature in Android, at the expense of much higher battery usage, shorter battery life.

That's one of the reasons I avoid Foscam, they have different families of software on different camera models, so features and API that works for one model do not apply to others. One workaround is use a NVR that does publish a featureful API, do your scheduled recording in the NVR instead of on camera. Preferably ONVIF Profile S cameras, but anything supported by your NVR would be usable. Even the free NVR from Milestone or ZoneMinder could suffice for a small deployment.

Depending on the make and model of your alarm, you might be able to use something like DSClink to get events into ISY.

I looked into this when it first came out, but Honeywell doesn't provide much technical documentation. As I recall, Honeywell does not recommend making the Tuxedo a Secondary Z-Wave controller, so I gave up on the idea and just went with a really basic Honeywell Z-wave thermostat instead.