KeviNH
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Everything posted by KeviNH
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Anytime you have problems with statements after a "Wait" not running, suspect the issue raised above. The quick and dirty workaround is to move all the actions into a separate program. Front Security Switch - [ID 0030][Parent 0001] If From 12:00:00AM To Sunrise (same day) And Control 'Front House Security-S' is switched On Then Run Program 'Front Security' (Then path) Else Run Program 'Front Security' (Else path) The second program, below, has no conditions, so it will only run when it is called explicitly, in this case, by the first program: Front Security - [ID 0031][Parent 0001] If - No Conditions - Then Set Scene 'Front House Lights' On Set Scene 'Dining Room' On Set Scene 'Foyer' On Run Program 'Front Security' (Else path) Else Wait 5 minutes Set Scene 'Dining Room' Off Wait 5 minutes Set Scene 'Foyer' Off Wait 5 minutes Set 'Front House Lights' OffBecause the second program has no conditions, there is nothing to be reevaluated after the wait, it will always run all the way to end.
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Larry, you are quite frustrating! There are good reasons to want to have the temperature in a variable, for example if you want a program that only runs if one room is more than 10 degrees warmer than the others. Broyd, what you are asking may be doable the Network Module if your device reports the raw temperature as an integer variable. For example, my Aeotec shows RAW as "66.40" so it doesn't work to store in a variable, but my Honeywell thermostat reports "67", no non-integer characters. The trick is to use this integer to update a variable by making a REST call from the ISY back to itself (don't use 127.0.0.1, use your intranet IP). You create a network resource that looks kind of like this (you'll need to supply the hostname, node, and your ISY's username and password): You'll need a program which sporadically calls this network resource so the value gets updated on a regular basis. This does not require V5, the screenshot above is from V4.5.4 and works fine for any device where the .RAW is a pure integer value.
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Harbor Freight sells a $5 bit assortment with pretty much every security screw type ever made.
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There's not inherent "disable" command in the standard UI. Sounds like you're looking for a way to programmatically enter/exit vacation mode?
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Personally, I try to avoid building anything reliant on cloud services, too many of them just disappear, the rest end up playing games with their pricing models, so I no longer trust anything cloudy. I'd rather self-host and deal with the overhead. I prefer VMs like Photon OS™ over Pi, unless I need the IO lines. They're HUGE if you click through all the way to the 1600x1400px originals. -
I use two notifications -- one sends me a SMTP message, the other appends a log to a local HTML file on the ISY itself.. No cloud services involved.
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Ethernet cables and RS-232 cables are by default wired straight-through, that is the standard cable type. When a crossover or "null modem" cable is needed, that is a special exception, and is usually labeled as such, or for Ethernet, might be colored red or yellow. Many modern Ethernet devices have automatic medium-dependent interface crossover (auto-MDIX) functionality in the device (not in the cable), that is the auto crossover. But the cables are not special, the port (driver chip) inside the computer or switch is.
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Ethernet with A on one end and B on the other is called a crossover cable. A patch cable is wired with either A on both ends, or B on both ends. The "normal" use of an Ethernet cable is to connect a computer to a switch, in which case the transmit/receive pins are already different on the switch than on the computer (though modern Auto MDI-X takes care of this now). A third type of cable are the special flat RJ-45 cables (usually pale blue, sometimes black) you see for serial console on networking gear, popularized by Cisco. These are usually "roll" cables and should only be used for Cisco-style serial connections, never for networking.
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No need for parens ,a chain of "And" statements is fine. In order to avoid to triggering this program if the light is already switched, I'd suggest changing "And Control 'Dining Room Switchlinc' is not switched On" to "And Status 'Dining Room Switchlinc' is Off".
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After 30 seconds, the lock re-locks itself, and Status changes to "Locked" so program is terminated before it can reach the end of the Wait time. To confirm this, temporarily add "Set Scene 'Dining Room' Off" to the Else clause, you should see the light turn off when the lock changes state back to Locked. If you disable the 30-second re-lock, you could get the results you are looking for with this program. Front Door Unlock Lightup - [ID 003B][Parent 0001] If From 7:45:00PM To 3:00:00AM (next day) And Status 'ZW 002 Schlage Door Lock' is Unlocked Then Set Scene 'Dining Room' On Wait 3 minutes Set Scene 'Dining Room' Off Set 'ZW 002 Schlage Door Lock' to Locked Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Comment (Make sure the command to lock the lock is the final line of the Then clause) There are other ways to accomplish what you are looking for by using a second program.
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Insteon protocol is pretty much limited to the MorningLinc, and is not a popular solution for door locks. Many, if not most, Z-Wave door locks are supported by the Z-Wave enabled ISY994Z, the most popular choice does appear to be the Schlage BE469. Others, like the Kwikset 910, and Yale, are also discussed in various threads in the Z-Wave subforums, but aren't nearly as popular.
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When unsuccessful, debugging serial can be non-trivial, especially without access to a oscilloscope, etc.. If the problem is induced noise,a shield cable might help but if the problem is capacitance, switching to a shielded cable will make it worse. Ultimately, if you have the ISY next to the PLM as a temporary setup and that is working, you might want to just make that permanent. I suggested the extender solution as a last-ditch option in the earlier thread, but those active converters are not cheap, and are usually only necessary for extreme distances (in the hundreds to thousands of feet), and/or at much higher baud rates. I've had no problems with regular Cat-5e at 30', other users here have gone to +60' successfully with just a long piece of Cat6 cable.
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Interesting that your pre-made Cat5 cable failed to work. Maybe it is faulty, tried a cable tester on it? The PLM uses 3 wires, a different subset of the available lines compared to Ethernet, so a cable could work for 100Mbit networking yet fail when used for PLM. IIRC, the serial communication uses pins 1,7,8 at 19,200 bits/second (baud); slow enough that it should be generally forgiving of the usual issues that might come with long cable runs. My ISY994 is 30 feet from my PLM, extended using standard Cat5e off a bulk spool, via patch panels. See this old thread: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/18274-maximum-distance-between-isy-and-plm/?hl=serial&do=findComment&comment=168187
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Very few cameras ship with a PIR motion detector, and in-camera motion detection varies from absolutely awful to merely lousy. The ability to have a camera trigger an ISY-994 action depends on the camera/firmware. Many advanced cameras have a feature where they can make an outbound HTTP call upon motion detection, this can be a REST command to the ISY to run a program, like so: This camera also has a digital I/O connector, such that it will close a circuit when it sees motion. You could wire that "alarm output" circuit to an IOlinc or Open/Close sensor and use that as a condition for a program.
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You should do an autopsy on the failed sensor, determine the root cause. What are you trying to monitor? It would be a lot easier to seal the unit if you are using the built-in reed switch. Several companies make IP67 rated project boxes, but ones with a waterproof cable gland are much more expensive than plastic boxes without a cable entry.
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I just use the built-in "UD Ajax" Web interface via the web browser on my Android device. Browsing to the web-based UI on the ISY-994 works great when you are at home; you can access it remotely once you have a way to do remote access (port forwarding, etc).
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Try these instructions: http://homeautomationguru.com/accessing-isy-994i/ The problem is that the finder uses a broadcast to find the ISY, and your VPN is stopping that local broadcast from reaching the ISY.
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Not at this time, but there is a feature request for that.
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I would start by connecting directly from a computer serial port to the receiver (e.g. with Windows and PuTTY). Try sending a command like "*IRSETSR" and hit enter, see if you get a response. Then try sending something like "*ALLV-" to see the zone volume changes as expected. If that works, do the same thing, but use the network connection through the IP2SL and make sure it still works as expected. If that works, you can create a network resource on the ISY that connects to the same TCP port and sends "*ALLV-" and a carriage return, and it should work the same as when you typed the command by hand.
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Looks good. Here's a few suggestions for next steps: I made a folder called "Simulate Occupancy" and added "Elk Area 'A1' 'Armed State' is Armed Away" as the folder condition, then I put a variety of programs in the folder, each with a different Schedule. That way I can fine-tune the activating condition (maybe I want a variable that prevents the lights from going on and off) by just changing it one place, on the Folder. If you're only switching lights and don't want any of these programs running while it is light outside, add schedule to the folder condition starting 1 hour before sunset, and ending 1 hour after sunrise. For any device or Scene you add to the "Then" actions, Consider adding corresponding "Off" action to the Else clause. This ensures that when the program ends everything that was turned on gets turned off, even if the program is terminated in the middle of execution. Your program sets the maximum On duration at 1 hour, and a minimum on duration of 0 seconds. If you want to ensure that each light is always on for at least 5 minutes, do this: Wait 5 minutes Wait 55 minutes(Random)
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A Network Resource needs a hostname or a specific IP address to send to, so you definitely want to set static IP addresses in any device you intend to address from a Network Resource. If you have a higher-end Internet router, you may be able to configure it with "DHCP reservations" to the same end result -- the living room sonos always has the same IP all the time.
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The problem is that when "Garage Door-Sensor' changes status to Off while the wait is in progress; this event immediately causes the program to be re-evaluated. Because it is false, it stops the wait and the program is ended before it can get to the "Off" command. Here's a quick-and-dirty workaround to ensure the light gets turned off: If Status "Garage Door-Sensor' is On Then Set 'Garage Near' On Wait 5 minutes Set 'Garage Near' Off Else Wait 5 minutes Set 'Garage Near' Off There are cleaner ways to accomplish exactly what you want, but all the approaches I know of require creating a second program.
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I know of three less expensive options, assuming you already have the Portal or Network module: Any computer with a spare serial port (assuming it is always turned on), can be a RS-232 bridge with a bit of free software. If you're feeling ambitious, you can match (exceed, really) the RS-232 functionality of the +$90 Global Caché IP to Serial with a $35 ($50 with all accessories) Raspberry Pi. f you or a friend already know the Arduino SDK, you might prefer the $25 EzSBC "ESP32 Dev Board" with WiFi and 3 serial UARTs built in -- add level adapter chips and you have a 3-port Serial-to-WiFi adapter at half the price of a single Global Caché. OTOH, there's no shame in paying the hefty premium of Global Caché if you need their plug-and-play operation, warranty, and great technical support. If I was setting up HA for a customer, I would likely go with a product like this instead of rolling my own with an ESP32.
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Something like: If Time is Last Run time Heat-Tape-On + 12 hours And ( 'Heat-Tape / Heat-Tape-Back' is On Or 'Heat-Tape / Heat-Tape-Front' is On Or 'Heat-Tape / Heat-Tape-Side' is On ) Then Set 'Heat-Tape / Heat-Tape-Back' Off Set 'Heat-Tape / Heat-Tape-Front' Off Set 'Heat-Tape / Heat-Tape-Side' Off Personally, I use a variable $s.Heat_Tape_Needed, set it to 1 while weather conditions warrant their use.
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It used to be that StartSSL was a way to get free 1-year certificates, but Startcom is becoming less trusted in browsers now. I usually use my own private CA, and import it as a trusted certificate on my devices. This takes a little more effort, but you can issue yourself 5-year (or longer) certificates and the price is right.
