haroldunger

That's easy. Thanks.

How does one do that without losing any of the programs, etc.

Thanks. Will reset old PLM and order a new one, just in case.

Michel, I assume that my 2413S PLM has died (2 years and 2 months after purchase) since the ISY did go into safe mode when I rebooted remotely. Recently, the PLM has been running very hot! Smarthome suggested that I perform a factory reset on the PLM. I have little hope that that will work. I was advised to (1) unplug everything, (2) plug the connecting cable into the PLM, (3) plug the PLM into 110v, (4) plug the ISY into 110v. Then, I am to log in and do a restore modem. Is this the procedure for the rebooted PLM and the new PLM? Will I lose my previous programming! Please advise. Thanks. Harold

I do refrain. Thanks.

Michel, You hit the nail on the head! I went to the trouble of signing up with dyndns and creating my own "xxxx.xxxxx-xxx.com" address as the secure https:// that I can use at home, at the office and also with MobiLinc Pro. The reason that I switched to the dyndns method is that the address did change several times in the past. What I didn't do was to use that address to sign on to the ISY at home. Thanks. Harold

I am unable to sign on to the ISY994i/Pro remotely from my home computer. I get a blank admin console. The problem exists with and without Avast disabled. I am able to make contact with the ISY via MobiLinc and with my office computer which also has Avast on it. In both locations, I use 4.1.2 to sign on to the 4.1.1 program. Both computers run Win7 64 bit. I have been able to sign on with the home computer before. All of a sudden, it stopped working. I'm signing on in both locations using my dyndns address. I have rebooted the ISY remotely from the office computer. I have the latest version of 64 bit Java. I have also deleted the Java cache. I get the following errors at home: "socket open failed java.netsockettimeout exception" then "XML Parse Error with https://xx.xx.xxx.xxx:443/desc". The strange thing is that I have been on the other end of this issue before and have advised disabling Avast. Now, I'm on the wrong end. Anyone have any ideas as to how to fix this? Thanks.

Try the LED's with one incandescent light still on the same switch. See if that makes a difference. It made a difference with the Puck lights. There was a lot of buzzing without one incandescent on the switch. Admittedly, these work off a transformer.

I've replaced my incandescents and halogen lights with 2700K LED's (mostly from bulbs.com). They dim nicely to +/-10% and do not flicker. I am using Insteon switches no older than two years with an ISY994 ir/pro. FLOOD: 85 Watt Incandescent Equivalent, 12 Watt, 120 Volt DIMMABLE 25,000-Hr 2700K Warm White LED BR30 Bulb - LED12BR30D27K (TCP) LAMPS: 100 Watt Incandescent Equivalent, 19 Watt, 120 Volt Dimmable LED A-21 Lamp - 19A21/2700-WHT DIM (Philips) ENCLOSED FIXTURES: 60 Watt Incandescent Equivalent, 10 Watt, 120 Volt Dimmable Frosted LED A-19 Lamp - Infinia 60 (Switch). There is really no substitute for a warm incandescent. These are close when at full strength. When they are dimmed, they are somewhat "whiter" than incandescents. It takes a little getting used to. White oak floors and cabinets do not look as rich. However, these bulbs do not run hot and there is a substantial savings when using a fraction of the wattage that incandescents use. Bottom line is that I am pleased with the change. I will be testing a 3-way within a week or so. Just finished the test. The "Switch" bulbs seem to work well with most lamps.

Michel, Have been following the string here... I had the same opinion as bjhanson3. I just assumed that an occasional reboot was needed. Perhaps, Cablevison has the same tendency of bombarding as does FIOS. BTW, Cablevision serves Long Island and parts of New Jersey. It serves other areas, too, but I'm not sure of the locations. Harold

Michel, I emailed back. I just updated it. Still have questions in the email... Harold

Michel, I am sending the error log to you. No to any of the ISP's... Thanks. Harold

Michel, The ISY was not accessible locally until I rebooted the unit. Once I rebooted it, MobiLinc populated and the ISY started to send texts and emails. However, even though inaccessible, the unit still sent commands according to my program schedules as shown in the log. My conclusion is as it has always been. I believe that the unit is defective. Your thoughts? Thanks. Harold

Michel, I'm using the dns service, not Connect. MobilLinc cannot see the status of the ISY. All the fields that would normally populate are blank. I don't know about locally since I am away from the house now. I suspect that it won't work locally also. I'll check upon arrival. 1. 4.0.5 with the 4.1.1 sign-on. 2. Cablevision. I do use AT&T for the iPhone when not connected to Wi-Fi. Harold

Michel, Actually, someone from your organization worked with me on it. I believe that we created port forwarding rules and disabled the Internet access that I was using before. We thought that a changing IP address was the culprit. So, we eliminated that problem. Unfortunately, Internet access still eludes me about once a month requiring a reboot. And, my MobilLinc now is unable to communicate with the ISY. Again, the Honeywell remote is having no problem. So, the modem and router are up and running. Harold

Michel, The errors are: 1. XML Parse Error https://xx.xx.xxx.xxx:443/desc 2. Socket open failed Java.net.sockettimeoutexception. I do know that my Internet and router are working since I am able to access the Honeywell Total Connect thermostats. I am using Cablevision on Long Island. They do change IP addresses periodically, but since I now use my own https://dyndns....com, that should have no bearing on the situation. Also, the Internet is not enabled within the program. This problem has affected me since I bought the ISY back when we were using 3.XXX. I am using 4.05 with the 4.11 sign-on. I will send you the error log when I am at the home-sometime Wednesday or Thursday. Thanks. Happy New Year. Harold

The ISY stops responding via the Internet about once a month. During this time, it still sends commands to the PLM. If I reboot the ISY, it again works fine for Internet purposes. This has been going on since I purchased the unit. I believe that the ISY is defective. If I buy a new ISY and replace the storage unit within, do I need to do anything else to make it work once it is fired up?

Honeywell now has two new Wi-Fi non Redlink models: RTH9580, RTH9590. The ...90 has voice recognition; the other, not. Otherwise, they are identical. I have been testing the ...80 and find it to work very nicely locally and remotely (using the Honeywell remote setup). Don't know about API's. Works in the Cloud...

I purchased several sensors a few months ago and had the same problem with the sensors showing "dry" even though they were still sitting in water. I called Insteon and they told me to unistall the sensors from the ISY and then reinstall them manually. I did just that and now they seem to indicate "wet" until removed from the water. BTW, my water is conditioned. That would normally makes matters worse.

I think I've got it. Here's the rewritten program. Thanks.

The adjust scene didn't work. It merely turned on the lights at 30% at midnight. It didn't change the brightness when I wanted to turn on the lights. Any other ideas?

On sign-on, ISY has just started to ask me if I want to uninstall a Best Buy add-in (see attached). Also, I cannot go into the manage/purchase module part of the program. Any ideas, anyone? Thanks.

Thank you. Will try it.

I have just added an insteon dimmer to one of the master bathroom lights. In addition to the local switch, the light is also controlled by two Remotelinc 2440's which are kept at bedside. Is it possible to have the lights come on at a lower level between the hours of, let's say, 12am to 6am when controlled by one of the 2440"s? In other words, if the light normally goes on at 65%, how would I program the light to go on at 30% between the above hours ONLY when switched on by one of the 2440's? Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks.

According to SmartHome, the leak sensor should be installed manually. I did so and the unit kept reporting a wet condition when wet. Seems as if that has solved the problem...hopefully!